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Old 04-29-2013, 08:51 PM   #8521
slidefighter
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Two questions:

1. Back in the dark ages on this thread, there was a discussion on what to do about fairing screws spinning the nuts in the gas tank. I've looked in my notes and I can't find what the consensus solution was. Mine are spinning and there doesn't look to be any room in the nut well to get any JB Weld (or similar) in there to lock them down. Should I put the screw back in without the fairing as far as I can and then lever them out, fill the cavity with JB and then set them back in to cure? What's the websitewisdom say?

2. Also, I can't find anything that screws into the smaller, middle screw hole in the picture. Was that something that was removed when my dealer did the canisterectomy, or something? Any idea what was there or what it is that I'm missing?



Thanks,



Lee...
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:55 PM   #8522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter View Post
Two questions:

1. Back in the dark ages on this thread, there was a discussion on what to do about fairing screws spinning the nuts in the gas tank. I've looked in my notes and I can't find what the consensus solution was. Mine are spinning and there doesn't look to be any room in the nut well to get any JB Weld (or similar) in there to lock them down. Should I put the screw back in without the fairing as far as I can and then lever them out, fill the cavity with JB and then set them back in to cure? What's the websitewisdom say?

2. Also, I can't find anything that screws into the smaller, middle screw hole in the picture. Was that something that was removed when my dealer did the canisterectomy, or something? Any idea what was there or what it is that I'm missing?



Thanks,



Lee...
That hole is empty on my 2013, and I think I found a picture in the owners manual also showing it empty.
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:54 AM   #8523
sprouty115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter View Post
Two questions:

1. Mine are spinning and there doesn't look to be any room in the nut well to get any JB Weld (or similar) in there to lock them down. Should I put the screw back in without the fairing as far as I can and then lever them out, fill the cavity with JB and then set them back in to cure?

2. Also, I can't find anything that screws into the smaller, middle screw hole in the picture. Was that something that was removed when my dealer did the canisterectomy, or something? Any idea what was there or what it is that I'm missing?
If it's a brand new bike I would take it to the dealer and tell them it's defective and let them sort it out before I pulled them out. Because once you do they're going to want nothing to do with it. If it's not new or they're unwilling to help, I'd contact KTM directly and see what they say.

Also that smaller, middle screw is empty on mine (2013) as well.

BTW, while you have the fender/cover off inspect two areas: the top of the tail light and both sides of the gas tank that it covers. Mine was rubbing and it was cutting a pair of notches in the tail light and there was significant abrasion on the tank on the left side of the gas tank. I needed to add some nylon washers between the cover and the nut to provide clearance in both areas.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:11 AM   #8524
DirtJack
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Originally Posted by shipwrek12001 View Post
08 690



4 long and one short code.... already chged the fuel pump... w/ ca cycle pump...

failed last fall no codes, I'm sure someone has the video for that.. failed in my drive way a month or more ago setting the 4L1S code, chged the fuel pump... had a grnd failure a week ago, fixed that easily, then failed again yesterday 4L1S code again.... wtf........................

no sound from the fuel pump to be heard..........
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:23 PM   #8525
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Dumb things we do.

Keep in mind I am learning as I go here and am fairly new at bike maintenance.

I guess I wasn't reading the manual carefully enough and managed to incorrectly adjust the chain tension (don't ask... way too tight... I am an engineer who reads plans and dimensions all day and still managed to read the diagram wrong). Promptly went out for about 200 miles of riding over the next couple of days. Some dirt, some road.

Anyway, I just have this feeling that I didn't adjust the chain correctly, and of course do some reading online, re-read the manual and sure enough, I have the chain way too tight. I also read about the catastrophic potential of riding with a tight chain. So now I am a little worried.

I don't think I damaged anything, the transmission still is working fine, no leaks from countershaft seal (at least from what I can tell), sprockets and chain look no worse for the wear, no play in wheel bearings, so I think I am OK.

I have re-adjusted the chain using the method in the manual (push the chain up towards swing-arm from a point 30mm back from the chain slider with 5mm clearance to the swing arm itself). Now I am second guessing myself that it is too loose. My last bike was a Honda 450X a few years back and I recall the chain being tighter than this.

Do KTM chains operate a little looser than other bikes? What is everyone's thoughts on possible damage done to the bike due to my nice tight chain run, that just hasn't appeared yet?
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:48 PM   #8526
slidefighter
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Thanks for the info, guys. Unfortunately, my dealer is a 400 mile round trip away from here. I'll give them a call and see what they suggest though, that is a very good idea.

What a great bike!


Lee...
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:48 PM   #8527
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Was the chain tight when the rear axle, swing arm pivot and front sprocket formed a straight line? If not, then absolutely no damage was done. If it was then it's a matter of "how tight". If there is no visible damage, no leaks, and nothing is bent (you should probably put a dial indicator on the front sprocket shaft), then you may be ok.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:20 PM   #8528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
Was the chain tight when the rear axle, swing arm pivot and front sprocket formed a straight line? If not, then absolutely no damage was done. If it was then it's a matter of "how tight". If there is no visible damage, no leaks, and nothing is bent (you should probably put a dial indicator on the front sprocket shaft), then you may be ok.
Didn't specifically check at axle/pivot/sprocket alignment position before I backed off the tension, but I am pretty sure it was too tight. Instead of 5mm clearance from swing arm (as per manual), I had about 30mm play (as per my dumbass initial read of the manual).

I just went out and checked the countershaft/sprocket area. Definitely no play and no leaking. I don't have a dial indicator but spun the wheel/looking at the shaft and nothing appears bent to the eye. There were no abnormal vibrations when riding today (after loosening adjustment).

Hopefully I dodged the bullet. Suppose I'll just keep riding and see how it goes.

Update: Went out and checked again. By eye the CS spins straight as an arrow. Maybe I will pick up a dial indictor to double check. I assume this is a hardened piece of steel and and pretty tough to bend, with seals, sprockets and bearings giving out before the shaft. Also if it was bent, I would also assume the seal would surely be leaking (currently looks clean as a whistle). Some of the stories I have read show that the seal leaks if you look at it wrong.

kingby screwed with this post 04-30-2013 at 08:04 PM
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:42 PM   #8529
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Sounds like you didn't damage anything. I'd still borrow an indicator and then you can definitely not worry about it again.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:04 PM   #8530
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingby View Post
Do KTM chains operate a little looser than other bikes? What is everyone's thoughts on possible damage done to the bike due to my nice tight chain run, that just hasn't appeared yet?
Depends on the KTM, the PDS system that's on the race bikes requires a lot looser chain. The 690 has a standard linked suspension like most other bikes so there's no need to run it any looser then what you're used to.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:28 AM   #8531
kingby
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Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
Sounds like you didn't damage anything. I'd still borrow an indicator and then you can definitely not worry about it again.
Before I go removing the CS sprocket to check the shaft with a dial indicator, will I need to replace the lock washer (the bent one), when I put it back together? Or can I just pound it as flat as I can and use a new area of that washer to bend against the nut?
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:35 AM   #8532
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Originally Posted by kingby View Post
Before I go removing the CS sprocket to check the shaft with a dial indicator, will I need to replace the lock washer (the bent one), when I put it back together? Or can I just pound it as flat as I can and use a new area of that washer to bend against the nut?
You can reuse them a couple times.
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:43 PM   #8533
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Is there anybody on this forum who has had frame damage or at least damaged the brake pedal mount while using the Rally Raid or Cleanspeed brake pedals on their 690?
The other way around ...

Because the oem pedal bends so easily, it is known the pedal tip punched through the cover once bended ... Keep your oem pedal and have things broken. Like Mitch said, it is your decision ...

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Old 05-01-2013, 01:51 PM   #8534
sdd04
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The other way around ...

Because the oem pedal bends so easily, it is known the pedal tip punched through the cover once bended ... Keep your oem pedal and have things broken. Like Mitch said, it is your decision ...

Pauljr
This is what happened to mine, though it looks like I saved the cover.
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:55 PM   #8535
motoged
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Chain tension: One way to check tension is to stand to the right side of the bike, face the seat, place full weight of body on seat by leaning chest/gut on seat, so as to compress shock the most you can (grab the swing arm on left side of bike as you are putting body weight on seat and pull downwards to compress shock more) and check chain tension....it should have just a bit of slack.

That's my method for the pro-link as well as RFS smaller bore KTMs.

That as well as the method outlined in manual...

You will likely hear chain-slap when operating bike if tension is too loose.
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