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Old 04-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #8491
kingby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
Was the chain tight when the rear axle, swing arm pivot and front sprocket formed a straight line? If not, then absolutely no damage was done. If it was then it's a matter of "how tight". If there is no visible damage, no leaks, and nothing is bent (you should probably put a dial indicator on the front sprocket shaft), then you may be ok.
Didn't specifically check at axle/pivot/sprocket alignment position before I backed off the tension, but I am pretty sure it was too tight. Instead of 5mm clearance from swing arm (as per manual), I had about 30mm play (as per my dumbass initial read of the manual).

I just went out and checked the countershaft/sprocket area. Definitely no play and no leaking. I don't have a dial indicator but spun the wheel/looking at the shaft and nothing appears bent to the eye. There were no abnormal vibrations when riding today (after loosening adjustment).

Hopefully I dodged the bullet. Suppose I'll just keep riding and see how it goes.

Update: Went out and checked again. By eye the CS spins straight as an arrow. Maybe I will pick up a dial indictor to double check. I assume this is a hardened piece of steel and and pretty tough to bend, with seals, sprockets and bearings giving out before the shaft. Also if it was bent, I would also assume the seal would surely be leaking (currently looks clean as a whistle). Some of the stories I have read show that the seal leaks if you look at it wrong.

kingby screwed with this post 04-30-2013 at 07:04 PM
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:42 PM   #8492
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Sounds like you didn't damage anything. I'd still borrow an indicator and then you can definitely not worry about it again.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:04 PM   #8493
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Originally Posted by kingby View Post
Do KTM chains operate a little looser than other bikes? What is everyone's thoughts on possible damage done to the bike due to my nice tight chain run, that just hasn't appeared yet?
Depends on the KTM, the PDS system that's on the race bikes requires a lot looser chain. The 690 has a standard linked suspension like most other bikes so there's no need to run it any looser then what you're used to.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:28 AM   #8494
kingby
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Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
Sounds like you didn't damage anything. I'd still borrow an indicator and then you can definitely not worry about it again.
Before I go removing the CS sprocket to check the shaft with a dial indicator, will I need to replace the lock washer (the bent one), when I put it back together? Or can I just pound it as flat as I can and use a new area of that washer to bend against the nut?
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:35 AM   #8495
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Originally Posted by kingby View Post
Before I go removing the CS sprocket to check the shaft with a dial indicator, will I need to replace the lock washer (the bent one), when I put it back together? Or can I just pound it as flat as I can and use a new area of that washer to bend against the nut?
You can reuse them a couple times.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:43 PM   #8496
Gros Buck
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Is there anybody on this forum who has had frame damage or at least damaged the brake pedal mount while using the Rally Raid or Cleanspeed brake pedals on their 690?
The other way around ...

Because the oem pedal bends so easily, it is known the pedal tip punched through the cover once bended ... Keep your oem pedal and have things broken. Like Mitch said, it is your decision ...

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Old 05-01-2013, 12:51 PM   #8497
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Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
The other way around ...

Because the oem pedal bends so easily, it is known the pedal tip punched through the cover once bended ... Keep your oem pedal and have things broken. Like Mitch said, it is your decision ...

Pauljr
This is what happened to mine, though it looks like I saved the cover.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:55 PM   #8498
motoged
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Chain tension: One way to check tension is to stand to the right side of the bike, face the seat, place full weight of body on seat by leaning chest/gut on seat, so as to compress shock the most you can (grab the swing arm on left side of bike as you are putting body weight on seat and pull downwards to compress shock more) and check chain tension....it should have just a bit of slack.

That's my method for the pro-link as well as RFS smaller bore KTMs.

That as well as the method outlined in manual...

You will likely hear chain-slap when operating bike if tension is too loose.
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:06 PM   #8499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Chain tension: One way to check tension is to stand to the right side of the bike, face the seat, place full weight of body on seat by leaning chest/gut on seat, so as to compress shock the most you can (grab the swing arm on left side of bike as you are putting body weight on seat and pull downwards to compress shock more) and check chain tension....it should have just a bit of slack.

That's my method for the pro-link as well as RFS smaller bore KTMs.

That as well as the method outlined in manual...

You will likely hear chain-slap when operating bike if tension is too loose.
Not sure about the bikes you mention, but on the 690, you just put it on the side stand and measure the tension. Basically you want it to almost, but not quite, be able to touch the swingarm.


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Old 05-01-2013, 02:52 PM   #8500
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Originally Posted by ScottDill View Post
Not sure about the bikes you mention, but on the 690, you just put it on the side stand and measure the tension. Basically you want it to almost, but not quite, be able to touch the swingarm.

Yeah, we are all experts here.

Lotsa ways to manage your chain
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:15 PM   #8501
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Checked kill switch. Battery terminal connections checked. Have tried changing gears and then back to neutral, clutch pulled in. Unfortunately no change.

Will have to check side stand switch. I do have the side stand removal switch, maybe I'll finally get around to installing it.
Starting issue ended up being a bad battery.

Bike would start once if I fully charged the original battery, but if I shut the bike off and then immediately tired to restart, it was a no go.
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:28 AM   #8502
Brute
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Originally Posted by kingby View Post
Dumb things we do.

Keep in mind I am learning as I go here and am fairly new at bike maintenance.

I guess I wasn't reading the manual carefully enough and managed to incorrectly adjust the chain tension (don't ask... way too tight... I am an engineer who reads plans and dimensions all day and still managed to read the diagram wrong). Promptly went out for about 200 miles of riding over the next couple of days. Some dirt, some road.

Anyway, I just have this feeling that I didn't adjust the chain correctly, and of course do some reading online, re-read the manual and sure enough, I have the chain way too tight. I also read about the catastrophic potential of riding with a tight chain. So now I am a little worried.

I don't think I damaged anything, the transmission still is working fine, no leaks from countershaft seal (at least from what I can tell), sprockets and chain look no worse for the wear, no play in wheel bearings, so I think I am OK.

I have re-adjusted the chain using the method in the manual (push the chain up towards swing-arm from a point 30mm back from the chain slider with 5mm clearance to the swing arm itself). Now I am second guessing myself that it is too loose. My last bike was a Honda 450X a few years back and I recall the chain being tighter than this.

Do KTM chains operate a little looser than other bikes? What is everyone's thoughts on possible damage done to the bike due to my nice tight chain run, that just hasn't appeared yet?
Usually when you adjust the chain to tight it stretches the chain un evenly . I would jack the rear wheel up . Rotate the wheel & check the chain tension in several different locations . If it goes from loose to tight , loose to tight . You have damaged your chain . If not , don`t worry about the rest .
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Old 05-02-2013, 05:31 AM   #8503
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute View Post
Usually when you adjust the chain to tight it stretches the chain un evenly . I would jack the rear wheel up . Rotate the wheel & check the chain tension in several different locations . If it goes from loose to tight , loose to tight . You have damaged your chain . If not , don`t worry about the rest .
chain too tight = faster chain wear, faster sprocket wear, danger of damaging CS seal or countershaft.
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:01 AM   #8504
wsmc831
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Agree, I wouldn't worry about counter shaft anything...if it's not leaking no need to fix it. Just adjust chain properly and keep riding.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:52 AM   #8505
sdd04
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2 inch bar rise on 2013

Know it's been done on the 12's, but has anyone done it on a 13 yet?

I was looking at it today, and the clutch line looked dicey for distance.

Thanks
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