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Old 05-07-2013, 01:58 PM   #16
JagLite
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Thumb Tank sealer

I like Caswell and have used it on 3 tanks (so far)
http://www.caswellplating.com/restor...nk-sealer.html
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:44 PM   #17
R'oli OP
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After cleaning a rusty tank with water and drywall nails, I tried the electrolysis method of removing rust today, it seemed to work well; the inside of tank is now covered in black scale. The amp meter read 10A when battery charger was connected but within minutes it dropped to 4A, and down to 2A within 10 minutes. I used 1 1/2 cups of swimming pool PH+ (sodium Carbonate powder mixed with water). I must have cleaned the anode 10 times, and changed the solution once.
Not sure if I should continue the process, what should the inside of the tank look like when job is done to the extent required??
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:43 PM   #18
Lizrdbrth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R'oli View Post
I have an EX500 coming my way, I have heard a KLR 650 front end and rear end will strap right on, does anyone have any experience with this, or know where I could find out if this is true?
I started one of these a long time ago, got injured, then healed and haven't yet got back to it. I slapped KLR forks on it and made one "proof of concept" run at 100 mph on it.

There's a thread floating around on here somewhere in which a few of us were building and learning simutaneously. Most of the pics are probably gone by now. Nuclieye and TonyMoore built less ambitious versions using mostly EX500 components and they seemed to work fairly well.

If I were to do it over again I'd probably take the opposite route from the one you've planned. Find some knobbies in the proper sizes and ride-as-you-bulid as they did rather than going all out from the git. Change the footpeg and riding positions, kickstand layout, exhaust, adapt the EX upper triple to conventional bars and work out handlebar heights, ditch or work out less breakable plastics, get the gearing spot on, get some kind of sump protection and do all the little sniggling things over time, then work on longer legs. I coulda been having some fun on the thing instead of parking it til I could find the time to perfect it. Just my .02. Prolly would have been real giggle on fire roads and been a decent road-biased dualsport tourer in the bargain, meanwhile.

Think "streetfighter, with knobbies". At least initially.

I still think it's a worthwhile project. Like you I went with the KLR front end because I had one on hand. It's a "good enough" solution in most ways, but there are a few engineering difficulties to be overcome.

Bear in mind that your new creation will be a boatload qicker and faster than any KLR (and nearly as heavy) and the KLR front brake is dubious, at best.

The KLR front end is more or less a bolt-on, but I remember that it was a minor hassle finding one of the tapered bearings in the correct size. Think it was the upper bearing.

The fork tubes will kiss the very top front seam of the tank long before reaching full lock, so this will need to be dealt with immediately or you'll have no steering.. I intended to weld 2 circular clearance notches in the forward edge of the tank. USD forks are gunna be much more hassle and maybe nearly impossible in terms of clearance due to that huge wedge of frame aft the steering head. Most dualsport triples don't have nearly the offset that the EX triples have.

You'll need new steering stops.

KLR rear wheels and disc brakes bolt right into the EX swingarm, and vice-versa. IIRC I used a combo of EX250 rocker and EX500 links to get the height right to match the front with the stock EX500 shock arrangement. Rode like a rock, but the height was right and I reckon I'll work out the rest later.

Anyway, I'm about two projects away from resuming work on mine and will be watching your progress.

For those of you contemplating going the other direction and installing the EX motor into the KLR frame, I've tried that, too. Not worth doing, IMO. I've already hacked up a perfectly good KLR frame so you don't gotta. lol.

The rear mounts are fairly easy. A couple of the rear mount bolt spacings are similar enough for easy mockup and front sprocket falls in the right place ahead of the swingarm pivot, but that's where the joy ends. The EX motor's front wounting points are substatially diiferent and more problematic and the motor is deceptively longer, wider (in all the wrong places) taller and hangs lower relative to the KLR motor in addition to being about 40 lbs. heavier. Among other things you'll have to cut out the entire engine cradle and move the front downtube forward several inches. Once you get it into the frame you'll have to remove the engine to adjust the valves. and when you get finished you'll have about the same ground clearance as a lifted EX, the right carb will suck the paint off your shock spring, the tank won't clear the heads, etc., etc.

Dirtifying an EX is much easier in the long run.

Lizrdbrth screwed with this post 05-08-2013 at 03:27 PM
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:25 AM   #19
R'oli OP
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Thank for your post Lizrdbrth.
My first step, before I do any mods is
to get it running reliably.
Cleaned carbs and it fired up the other day.
still lots to do just going over the unit before the serious
work starts.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:02 PM   #20
Beezer
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ya.... good post. this one is still on my list. also, I have put USD forks on a KLR & it limits steering lock on that bike too... thats the main reason I tell people to go to the Ricor valve on klr forks. no loss of steering ability
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:38 PM   #21
R'oli OP
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Applied the POR 15 this evening, it wasn't much thicker than water. I was expecting it to be much thicker, it didn't thicken up as quickly as I expected.... 96 hours to wait, we'll see how badly I Phukt it up...
Anyone know if you can add a second coat of this nasty stuff once the first coat is curred?
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:40 AM   #22
sailah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R'oli View Post
Applied the POR 15 this evening, it wasn't much thicker than water. I was expecting it to be much thicker, it didn't thicken up as quickly as I expected.... 96 hours to wait, we'll see how badly I Phukt it up...
Anyone know if you can add a second coat of this nasty stuff once the first coat is curred?
You can do 2 coats I don't know how long you are supposed to wait or if you are supposed to hot coat it. The reviews I have read about it say to hot coat it.

I have done it twice myself and never did more than one coat. I will say that stuff is the most tenacious paint I have ever seen. I spilled a couple drops on my garage floor that is HEAVILY trafficked and work with all sorts of things being ground, walked, scraped across and I'll be damned if it doesn't look like new

I'm about to do the new Ninja which will be the main tank, subtank and the radiator overflow tank. I think a major help is to keep rotating it while it sets up and to make sure it doesn't puddle. I had this happen to me once where it skimcoated the puddle but underneath took forever to dry. I had to pierce the top and let the liquid out like a blister. Not a fun day but it worked out fine.
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:41 AM   #23
R'oli OP
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"Hotcoat"? I am unaware of this process, can you explain?
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Old 11-29-2013, 06:37 AM   #24
Straightedge
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Progress report?

Any progress on your bike's transformation? I am doing the same/similar thing to a perfectly good ex500.
Curious minds want to know...
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:14 AM   #25
El Caballo Loco
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Updates?
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:03 PM   #26
sonic reducer
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what kind of weight can these EX500's come in at? the ER6N bikes people are converting are so much nicer but the EX is so cheap($500-1500 for a runner) and parts are everywhere. I've never seen a ER6 bike for less than $3k let alone a decent project for sale. the EX500 seems a natural choice for a project like this and it's surprising there aren't more of them being built especially given the KLE500 was sold overseas.
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Old 03-01-2014, 05:22 AM   #27
Straightedge
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Sonic, I read up on the specs of the KLR vs EX500 to make my decision. They are similar in weight. And cheap! Can't rule out cheap.
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:05 AM   #28
sailah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic reducer View Post
what kind of weight can these EX500's come in at? the ER6N bikes people are converting are so much nicer but the EX is so cheap($500-1500 for a runner) and parts are everywhere. I've never seen a ER6 bike for less than $3k let alone a decent project for sale. the EX500 seems a natural choice for a project like this and it's surprising there aren't more of them being built especially given the KLE500 was sold overseas.
Start looking at insurance auctions
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Old 03-01-2014, 05:25 PM   #29
bckyrdcustoms
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I'm currently doing the same project. A buddy of mine and myself decided to each build one. So far I made my own link for the rear to gain just over an inch and dropped the fork tube flush in the trees. Put some Vee rubber dual sport tires on it. As it sits it has 9 and change inches between the ground and the exhaust. I have to make a new fork cross brace to clear the tire. Then start on my crash cage and cargo racks. I picked up a klr 650 swing arm, shock, and forks that I rebuilt to swap in when they get the salt off the roads and I can ride my other bikes. The klr fork is only 1 mm larger than the ex in diameter so I was planning on having my stock triple machined to fit the klr fork tubes.
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