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Old 05-10-2013, 09:22 PM   #15811
CurbTiger
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Great North West
Oddometer: 46
DR petcock

Thanks for the confirmation of fuel valve bolt spacing. Makes life much easier.
Them wee side valve engines will NOT tolerate a leaky petcock. Drains right outta the carb into the LH main bearing..

NE
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:32 PM   #15812
Dirt4life
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Joined: May 2013
Oddometer: 2
Baja Designs

[QUOTE=Schneiderman;21372989]Alright so I'm getting set to sort out the electrical this weekend. My bike is a 1993 off road model, that someone converted to street legal, then someone else converted back to off road only. So it has had turn signals at some point, but now only has headlight and taillight (may or may not include brake light), but even they are disconnected.

Starts like this... 8 wires coming from the stator. These go to the CDI, but the only thing connected off the CDI is the on/off switch at the handlebar. There seems to be wiring for turn signals, headlight, taillight and brakelight still in place. But some cables are cut. There is a flasher relay too. Bike has a handlebar switch with high/lowbeam and turn signals. Then, there is a set of 4 cables that go into something under the seat. Then they go to something on the side of the bike. And my favorite part- two wires going to what appears to be a homemade battery.

Anyone want to give me some tips on what to look out for here? Does this look like someone swapped for a factory street model wiring, or is this an aftermarket kit? Or just homebrew? What's with the homemade battery, ever heard of that before? It's currently dead, but the bike does run. Just no lights were hooked up since I got the bike.

I might be able to help with your wiring PM sent
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:26 AM   #15813
Richklr650
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Dudley ma.
Oddometer: 171
93 dr 350s

hi gang i posted the other day that i just picked up a 93 dr350s that sat for a few years, pulled the carb ( what a messss) cleaned it changed the oil fresh gas a little carb cleaner in the tank. took a bit but fired up ran ok tookit for a couple test rides did ok but pops out of 3rd gear some times ??? what is up with that ? still have to do the valves thanks
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:42 AM   #15814
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richklr650 View Post
hi gang i posted the other day that i just picked up a 93 dr350s that sat for a few years, pulled the carb ( what a messss) cleaned it changed the oil fresh gas a little carb cleaner in the tank. took a bit but fired up ran ok tookit for a couple test rides did ok but pops out of 3rd gear some times ??? what is up with that ? still have to do the valves thanks
Might want to check the shift drum bolt... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=13643
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:29 AM   #15815
Hotmamaandme
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Gardnerville NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
To go from top to bottom on the dipstick is only a few ounces of oil. Personally I wouldn't worry about it - Just be sure to keep an eye on it.

No offence but are you sure you're checking it correctly - after it's just been run? If not, you could be overfilling it, which will cause it to use more oil.

Are there any leaks? It's hard to gauge how much you can lose to a leak - When the engine is hot and the oil is pumping it can sometimes drip out pretty quickly.

Once you've eliminated leaks or overfilling and if the consumption still bothers you, the fix might be as simple as a ring job or replacing valve-stem seals. My opinion: as long as it's running ok, keep your eye on it, top it up frequently and carry a small container of oil with you if you go any great distance.

Thanks for the response. No leaks and yes checking when hot. Ill just keep watching it already set up a small oil bottle for the bike.
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:17 PM   #15816
Crenshaw
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Salidaho
Oddometer: 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
Thanks for the response. No leaks and yes checking when hot. Ill just keep watching it already set up a small oil bottle for the bike.
Mine was using oil similarly to yours when I first got it- off the dipstick after 100-200 miles, even less if there was high speed pavement riding involved. It eventually drove me insane and I pulled the top end and found a very stuck oil control ring. I ended up with a procycle 385cc kit, but I'm sure I could've gotten away with just a new set of rings or even simply cleaning up the old ones along with the piston. Now I rarely add oil between changes and no longer have an msr bottle full of oil living in the bags permanently.

As it is, just make sure to keep a close eye on it- seems like these things really don't like running low.
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:36 PM   #15817
inroads
Wimberley,Texas
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Oddometer: 239
oil check if cold requires 3 minute warm-up then wait 1 minute then check.
If hot just wait 1 minute after shutdown.
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:29 PM   #15818
Richklr650
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Dudley ma.
Oddometer: 171
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Might want to check the shift drum bolt... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=13643
thanks looks like i will be taking a look at that very soon and will update
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:19 PM   #15819
scharfg
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Prince George (icky) BC Canada
Oddometer: 179
Newb with '96 DR350SE Clutch Slipping Problem

My DR has ~9000 miles on it and last riding season the clutch started to slip sometimes when I put it into 3rd gear and hit the throttle hard.

I've just got the bike on the road and its still doing it although now its doing it sometimes in 4th gear as well (happens off and on).

I have adjusted my clutch lever so there is no play in it, basically I just have to pull the lever in and I change gears.

I tried lubing my cable but it has a plastic sheath over the wire the slides inside the cable housing so I can't get a cable lube needle inside the housing as there is not enough room.

Is there any adjustment I can do at either end of the cable that will help to sort this out?

If not, how long can I ride the bike like this before something could go wrong?

I wonder if its because I jdid the air box mod and just last week installed a pumper carb from Jesse....?

Thanks for helping this newb out!
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:24 PM   #15820
travis789
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scharfg View Post
My DR has ~9000 miles on it and last riding season the clutch started to slip sometimes when I put it into 3rd gear and hit the throttle hard.

I've just got the bike on the road and its still doing it although now its doing it sometimes in 4th gear as well (happens off and on).

I have adjusted my clutch lever so there is no play in it, basically I just have to pull the lever in and I change gears.

I tried lubing my cable but it has a plastic sheath over the wire the slides inside the cable housing so I can't get a cable lube needle inside the housing as there is not enough room.

Is there any adjustment I can do at either end of the cable that will help to sort this out?

If not, how long can I ride the bike like this before something could go wrong?

I wonder if its because I jdid the air box mod and just last week installed a pumper carb from Jesse....?

Thanks for helping this newb out!
You want play in it, that means the clutch is completely engaged. I set mine up where the lever flops around free and you have to pull it in an 1/8" before it actually grabs the end of the cable. Do you have a manual?
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:28 PM   #15821
scharfg
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Prince George (icky) BC Canada
Oddometer: 179
Ah thanks dude, I'll put some play in the lever and hopefully that does the trick!

Best wishes.....
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:42 PM   #15822
travis789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scharfg View Post
Ah thanks dude, I'll put some play in the lever and hopefully that does the trick!

Best wishes.....
You're welcome and good luck. A lot of times it is the cable, they can stretch and also if they're sticky (not lubed) it can make it difficult to get the adjustment right. I hope that's what it is. All the bikes I've had, i've worn out clutch cables but never a clutch. But you can never tell what a PO may have done and I imagine a clutch could wear just from driving around with the cable incorrectly adjusted.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:55 PM   #15823
Suzuki Phil
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Oddometer: 627
Burning oil on startup is usually valve seal related as oil seeps through the seals when sitting. If you start your bike up and it smokes when your ride or rev it up it's usually the rings.

I ride my DR to work and check the oil once a week. After I get home I let the bike sit for about two minutes, pull bike upright, remove dipstick, wipe and place back in hole without screwing back in. Pull out and check. Letting the bike sit for a couple minutes is important.

SP


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
My DR has a slight puff of smoke on start up and seems to be using oil at a concerning rate. 200+or- miles off road riding and its almost off the dip stick? The bike runs great any thoughts?


PS actual mileage on bike unknown previous owner didn't know. I've put 1000k miles on it since owning it. I think the bike has a 385 kit so its had motor work done.
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:43 AM   #15824
thump!
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,208
Quote:
Originally Posted by travis789 View Post
You're welcome and good luck. A lot of times it is the cable, they can stretch and also if they're sticky (not lubed) it can make it difficult to get the adjustment right. I hope that's what it is. All the bikes I've had, i've worn out clutch cables but never a clutch. But you can never tell what a PO may have done and I imagine a clutch could wear just from driving around with the cable incorrectly adjusted.
I've owned 6 or 7 DR350s, both the offroad and S models. All were bought used. Some were only parts donors but three of those were tagged and used as true dual sports with greater than 50% non-paved use. All-in-all around 40K miles total on those three, all w/o a passenger but with my 220 lbs on board. To the point, those bikes saw some hard use but never abuse (from me) and the OE clutch began slipping at some point on all three of those. On two of them, the two I rebuilt with Wiseco hi-compresson pistons, all that was required was stronger (actually shimmed OE) clutch springs. The one I have now (a '96 frame with a stock '93, low hours, off-road engine) recently got new plates and springs after a carburetor refresh that increased power output slightly and resulted in clutch slipping. All the bikes have been run on Rotella 15W40. I agree that cable adjustment is important on these bikes and that one needs to be sure there is some cable slack but I also believe the clutch is one of the early failure points in the 350 design. Search this and other DR350 forums and you find it's a frequent topic. In contrast my DR650 has 40K miles with no clutch problems whatsoever AND a lighter clutch pull. It simply has a bigger and better clutch design I think.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:06 AM   #15825
swoody126
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Location: denton, America
Oddometer: 405
Quote:
Originally Posted by scharfg View Post
My DR has ~9000 miles on it ...

I tried lubing my cable but it has a plastic sheath over the wire the slides inside the cable housing so I can't get a cable lube needle inside the housing as there is not enough room.

Is there any adjustment I can do at either end of the cable that will help to sort this out?...

Thanks for helping this newb out!
been playing this game for over 40 years & never used a NEEDLE to lube my cables

started out creating a funnel from duct tape & dribbling lube down the disconnected cable, 'til it emerged from the other/bottom end

then came the CABLE LUBER TOOL:

http://www.aerostich.com/cable-luber.html

this tool is a small, very efficient link between your favorite aerosol lube can & either end of your cable

you have already identified the plastic sleeve & therefore the need for a plastic friendly lubricant

proper use of this tool assures COMPLETE application of lube

as mentioned above, a bit of FREE PLAY in the lever assures there is no exterior force on the clutch system, which is necessary for proper engagement

just an OLD man's 2˘ worth

sw
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