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Old 05-10-2013, 07:21 PM   #16
FlySniper
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Originally Posted by WonTian View Post
I know, right??

How would you have dealt with the problem?
Rode the bike until it was completely to temp, broke the bolt loose while the engine was still hot. Work on the bike after things cool down. No problems.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:33 PM   #17
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I would try a new inspection plug in the old cover first. clean everything of course. if there any threads that are boogered, get after them with a little file or a Dremel so the new plug can screw on without binding up, better to remove more thread than get crossed up or bound tight. then RTV silicone on the gouge & the threads too. mebby the Ultra Black... that seems to be the best oil sealer. It'll be fine. the epoxy would present some other problems.... like how to keep from gluing the plug to the case. it can be done with mold release, but I don't think you need the extra strength anyway, only need to keep it from leaking. the plug ain't gonna fall out. I RTV'd the bottom of a pop can over a hole like that once... lasted months. was still working when peeled off for a proper fix
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:43 PM   #18
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and btw.... the covers are magnesium I think. they are also thin and easy to punch a hole in. the stock shift lever has been known to spear the case and break it. there is an aftermarket steel lever with a plate welded on the side so it isn't as sharp a contact when you crash on that side... don't remember who made it. the stock lever is alloy. I built a thin steel plate on a bracket for mine. it attached to the pivot for the toe lever thing there at the end
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
I would try a new inspection plug in the old cover first. clean everything of course. if there any threads that are boogered, get after them with a little file or a Dremel so the new plug can screw on without binding up, better to remove more thread than get crossed up or bound tight. then RTV silicone on the gouge & the threads too. mebby the Ultra Black... that seems to be the best oil sealer. It'll be fine. the epoxy would present some other problems.... like how to keep from gluing the plug to the case. it can be done with mold release, but I don't think you need the extra strength anyway, only need to keep it from leaking. the plug ain't gonna fall out. I RTV'd the bottom of a pop can over a hole like that once... lasted months. was still working when peeled off for a proper fix
Ummmmm, in your case, I'd recommend a file and not a Dremel! Next time, before resorting to destructive methods, get on here and ask the question. This particular problem has been covered numerous times in quite a few threads. I applaud you trying to do your own work, but have an idea of what you are doing and do the research first. Or take it to a shop!
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:55 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by AnnieGS View Post
Were you using the correct metric size, or just a key you had that "fit" ?

Oh, and a tiny dab of valve-grinding compound on the key can improve the grip of the tool, especially with Al parts.
Yes, it was the correct size. I have a full tool cabinet of only metric tools
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:22 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by AnnieGS View Post

Oh, and a tiny dab of valve-grinding compound on the key can improve the grip of the tool, especially with Al parts.
Very neat, I have a few things to try this on...
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:33 PM   #22
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I picked up an impact driver from Harbor Freight for $8. It was definitely required for the removal of those screws.

I got the cover off and cleaned it all up. Here is pic of the damage all cleaned up


I'm going to pick up a new o-ring tomorrow and seal it up with RTV in the pits. If it leaks, then I'm just going to get a new case.

I'll let you guys know how it goes tomorrow
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:42 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
This particular problem has been covered numerous times in quite a few threads. I applaud you trying to do your own work, but have an idea of what you are doing and do the research first. Or take it to a shop!
I did do some research, I admit that it wasn't as in depth as it should have been. I figured it was straight forward enough.

I dont have the money to take my bikes to a proper shop and I love wrenching my bikes. My KLR is pretty farkled/modded out
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:42 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by haggeo View Post
i used PBblaster (heat gun too) and could swear (in my case) it didn't get past the o ring down to the threads on the cap. the first attempts were with a pin spanner but it was a harbor freight cheapie that bent right away but it gave me the castle nut socket idea. laying the bike down is also key to getting enough pressure on the cap with my foot, otherwise the pins just spin off of the holes.
Clever! Will try that next time I have to deal with something similar. BTW bicycle shops carry better quality pin spinners (and other tools that are handy for mc work)
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:11 AM   #25
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I understand, not being able to afford shop repairs is what got me started wrenching years ago and I don't mean to come across harshly. But what it will cost you for a new cover is more than it would have cost to have a shop take that cover off. My point is that you went really ham-fisted without researching it first. If you had researched more, you would have seen the recommendations to run the engine and get it hot to loosen the plug, and also would have seen pictures of the plug and know to drill in the middle instead of the edges to protect the threads. Proper tools for the job also make a huge difference, consider them an investment of the money you are saving by doing your own work and you'll have them for the next project. A chisel or punch would have been the right tool, screwdrivers are not designed to be hammered on (although we are all guilty of doing it!).

I started out the same way and was quick to grab a cheater bar or bigger hammer. I've since learned that technique is much more useful than brute force, and patience to figure out a better way is still faster and cheaper than repairing damages because I went straight to destructive mode. The internet is full of forums to tell you how to fix anything, spend a little bit of time there and do a search before you start a project. Your wrenching will be less stressful and much cheaper!

Happy wrenching!


Tim
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Old 05-11-2013, 05:00 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by WonTian View Post
I know, right??

How would you have dealt with the problem?
Fire ax might have been neater.

That, or an oxylance.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:24 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
I understand, not being able to afford shop repairs is what got me started wrenching years ago and I don't mean to come across harshly. But what it will cost you for a new cover is more than it would have cost to have a shop take that cover off. My point is that you went really ham-fisted without researching it first. If you had researched more, you would have seen the recommendations to run the engine and get it hot to loosen the plug, and also would have seen pictures of the plug and know to drill in the middle instead of the edges to protect the threads. Proper tools for the job also make a huge difference, consider them an investment of the money you are saving by doing your own work and you'll have them for the next project. A chisel or punch would have been the right tool, screwdrivers are not designed to be hammered on (although we are all guilty of doing it!).

I started out the same way and was quick to grab a cheater bar or bigger hammer. I've since learned that technique is much more useful than brute force, and patience to figure out a better way is still faster and cheaper than repairing damages because I went straight to destructive mode. The internet is full of forums to tell you how to fix anything, spend a little bit of time there and do a search before you start a project. Your wrenching will be less stressful and much cheaper!

Happy wrenching!


Tim
I completely understand and agree. I really should have researched more. This was a first for me(the destruction), I'm normally pretty careful with my toys. I 'm taking this as a lesson learned the hard way. At least I am still young and always willing to learn from those far more experienced then myself
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:25 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Fire ax might have been neater.

That, or an oxylance.
I think we should open a motorcycle repair shop together
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:29 AM   #29
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I put a black RTV in the pits and let it set for 30minutes. Then I put a new o-ring on the plug and coated the threads and o-ring in holmar. Also checked the valves since I don't want to have to pull that stuff all out again in a few hundred miles to get then engine to TDC. I'll let you guys know if it leaks when I have the bike all back together. I pulled the carbs for a good clean since I had the gas tank off.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:55 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by WonTian View Post
I put a black RTV in the pits and let it set for 30minutes. Then I put a new o-ring on the plug and coated the threads and o-ring in holmar. Also checked the valves since I don't want to have to pull that stuff all out again in a few hundred miles to get then engine to TDC. I'll let you guys know if it leaks when I have the bike all back together. I pulled the carbs for a good clean since I had the gas tank off.
If you need to rotate the engine again for the next valve check, etc. you can remove the spark plug, put it in gear, and turn the back wheel (wheel off the ground)...no need to remove the inspection cover that way
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