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Old 03-05-2013, 04:50 PM   #31
Mr. Cob
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Howdy All,

Just wanted to put in a plug for Jay at DMC, yesterday he mentioned that he now makes a spacer that will help raise the front of the GS's that have his steering mod.

Yesterday I asked Jay to send me one of the spacers, TODAY I received the spacer in the mail, NOW that is service. THANKS Jay, now I have to get off me arse and install it.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:44 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Mr. Cob View Post
Howdy All,

Just wanted to put in a plug for Jay at DMC, yesterday he mentioned that he now makes a spacer that will help raise the front of the GS's that have his steering mod.

Yesterday I asked Jay to send me one of the spacers, TODAY I received the spacer in the mail, NOW that is service. THANKS Jay, now I have to get off me arse and install it.
Where does the spacer go ? And please let us know how much it raises the skid plate or sub frame off the ground.
The trouble with the lower triple clamp modification is that it lengthens wheelbase and moves the front wheel forward and changes the fork angle making the fork into a longer lever compressing the front spring easier usually requiring a stiffer spring.Other than that it's fine they are both poor mens substitutes for leading links but I'm reasonably sure for the money shortening the telelever and moving the ball joint is a better idea and not much money.DB
Cobb
What did you do for the USA 11bravo ? I was a diesel mechanic in the USN.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:49 PM   #33
Mr. Cob
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Originally Posted by davebig View Post
Where does the spacer go ? And please let us know how much it raises the skid plate or sub frame off the ground.
The trouble with the lower triple clamp modification is that it lengthens wheelbase and moves the front wheel forward and changes the fork angle making the fork into a longer lever compressing the front spring easier usually requiring a stiffer spring.Other than that it's fine they are both poor mens substitutes for leading links but I'm reasonably sure for the money shortening the telelever and moving the ball joint is a better idea and not much money.DB
Cobb
What did you do for the USA 11bravo ? I was a diesel mechanic in the USN.
Howdy davebig,

I am right now trying to figure out where the spacer goes, I have put a call into Jay for some guidance as I have not worked on that part of the bike before. I took BEFORE measurements, I'll post the before and AFTER measurements after the installing the spacer.

I was an 11B and 11D. 11B straight leg Infantry, 11D Armored Recon.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:23 PM   #34
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Blue and whites my favorite colors but why did you name your rig after my mother Gertrude ? LOL
Given you age and MOS you may be a lucky guy.DB
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:27 PM   #35
Mr. Cob
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Blue and whites my favorite colors but why did you name your rig after my mother Gertrude ? LOL
Given you age and MOS you may be a lucky guy.DB
Howdy davebig,

The blue and white was and has always been my favorite Beemer color combination.

No disrespect meant to your Mom but the name Gertrude just struck me as the name of sturdy German Lady who could deal with just about anything.

Yes, after serving 18 months in RVN and going through the 68 Tet Offensive, I have had my share and then some of luck, but I am still kickin.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:33 PM   #36
Mr. Cob
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Howdy All,

According to my BEFORE and AFTER measurements the whole front end of the bike has raised ONE inch after installation of Jay's spacer. Heres the spacer in place. It screws to the bottom of the ball joint and then into the top of the bottom triple tree.


This has helped a lot, the next time I have the gas tank off I am going to make a spacer that goes on top of the front shock, with luck that will put the front end back where I am comfortable with how it handles going into a corner with a passenger in the tub. THANKS Jay.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:37 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Mr. Cob View Post
Howdy davebig,

The blue and white was and has always been my favorite Beemer color combination.

No disrespect meant to your Mom but the name Gertrude just struck me as the name of sturdy German Lady who could deal with just about anything.

Yes, after serving 18 months in RVN and going through the 68 Tet Offensive, I have had my share and then some of luck, but I am still kickin.
I didn't get along with the woman all that well but she was a sturdy German woman and quite proud of here heritage , fairly tall like the GS,very good nurse, knew the Mayo bros, but reliably problematic, good choice.DB
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:29 PM   #38
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Howdy All,

According to my BEFORE and AFTER measurements the whole front end of the bike has raised ONE inch after installation of Jay's spacer. Heres the spacer in place. It screws to the bottom of the ball joint and then into the top of the bottom triple tree.
When you say one inch, would that be the tip of the beak is up an inch, or the front of the subframe has one more inch of ground clearance, or what?

How hard was it to get the ball joint to come apart? I've heard those things are MF's!
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:42 PM   #39
Mr. Cob
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Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
When you say one inch, would that be the tip of the beak is up an inch, or the front of the subframe has one more inch of ground clearance, or what?

How hard was it to get the ball joint to come apart? I've heard those things are MF's!
Howdy DRONE,

The distance from the floor of the garage to the bottom-front of the skid plate increased ONE inch, the distance from the top of the front fender to the bottom of the beak increased ONE and 1/4 inch.

I used a very large adjustable wrench AND a large hammer, yes it was a MoFer to get that bugger to loosen up but it was either going to loosen or round off before I would give up. Owning and working on a Ural gives one the skills needed to apply a big hammer properly.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:10 AM   #40
davebig OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
When you say one inch, would that be the tip of the beak is up an inch, or the front of the subframe has one more inch of ground clearance, or what?

How hard was it to get the ball joint to come apart? I've heard those things are MF's!
If its never been apart the Germans love their locktite, a torch or even a heat gun on high will get the job done, I've used a LARGE slip joint pliers being careful not to make it look like a hacker has been working in it.DB

You guys haven't taught me the secret handshake yet ! LOL but there's plenty room for a 3/8" spacer on top of the shock and if you have an after market shock such as Ohlins it would be easy to change the stud at the top of the shock to use a longer spacer.
Claude's version of a triple clamp device incorporated raise.DB
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:29 AM   #41
claude
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Originally Posted by davebig View Post
If its never been apart the Germans love their locktite, a torch or even a heat gun on high will get the job done, I've used a LARGE slip joint pliers being careful not to make it look like a hacker has been working in it.DB

You guys haven't taught me the secret handshake yet ! LOL but there's plenty room for a 3/8" spacer on top of the shock and if you have an after market shock such as Ohlins it would be easy to change the stud at the top of the shock to use a longer spacer.
Claude's version of a triple clamp device incorporated raise.DB
There Were a lot of trail reducers made which did not have the raised rear on them. They reduced the trail but also lowered ground clearance due to the re-angled front fork assembly. This can b e aconcern with some bikes.

The ones we make have the raised rear on them and are one piece machined billet.

The trick is to get the dimensions right so the trail that was reduced is not gained back again when the rear of the trail reducer is raised. It is a numbers balancing act until it is right.

Raked trees can also reduce ground clearance for similar and obvious reasons. Some bikes need fork extensions to get back th etrail reduction desired while maintaing bround clearance.

Personally I much prefer a leading link but they are more costly. One must eigh cost vs value just like with many things. With alink you can make the trail anything you want and maintian or gain ground clearance as desired.

Same is true with a center hub front end.

The DeDome type modification is also excellent as it maitains the the stock fork angle thus no concerns arise regarding the upper fork pivot area on the GS bikes. This type of mod does not kick the fork forward but steepens the steering axis angle to acheive reduced trail...... Good system.

Of course the various leading leg type assemblies out there are also an option. We built one of these for a V Strom which as totally made of machined parts. It worked well but for other reasons we decided not to persue the production of it. Not knocking the idea here as it does have merit.

One other thing that has been done with bikes with convetional trees is to simply increase the offset between the fork tubes and the steering pivot point without changing the angle of the forks. This can be done with newly manufactured trees , modified trees or in some cased with braketry to move th eforks out in front of th eexisitng trees. Many way s to skin a cat and
of course everyone who sells a certain product will say they have the best thing goings ..so it goes..lol.
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:43 PM   #42
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More cat skinning !

Thanks Claude , and my future will probably get a leading link eventually, this coming summer will give me more insight into what I need but if one looks at the Euro rigs and one wants a big front tire (traction and floatation) LL's are probably the best deal, hell center hub steering makes them seem simple.

At any rate this thread is about economical trail reducing mods, that leave the front fork where we found it on telelever style BMW's 1100/50, make the steering allot easier and I rode my bike as a solo and it didn't have any funny idea's and would U-turn allot easier, but I would not recommend this for solo bikes .
Another inmate has a neighbor with a 1150gsa rig his been building and needs a steering mod so I thought we would build a couple probably 3 some of our work.



Last but not least a great diagram in French but pretty much self explanatory, we're effectively changing the non existent BMW steering head angle.Thanks for looking if I can help PM me.DB
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:50 PM   #43
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Update

In a bit of shameless self promotion, I did a telelever and ball joint mount for another NE hacker and neighbor of twintwin interesting and helpful Frenchman who got me started on this path.In the process I modified my extra stuff as I doubt my bike will ever go back to being a single,grabbed some pieces off fleabay. So I have two telelevers and one 1150 triple clamp ready to go, I have a 1100GS and RT, R ball joint mounts that can be finished quickly and will be willing to exchange pieces.thanks.DB

The difference 2 short one stock.DB
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:43 PM   #44
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Have managed to a peddle another set to another inmate and fledgling sidecarist, if anyone else needs trail reduction just ask.DB
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:55 AM   #45
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Strokers review


Stroker Dave's 1/2" shortened telelever and his impression without the chair, he's allot braver than I am I only rode mine 50-60ish to see how it tracked.It's exactly what I found when testing mine.

"Guys, just finished installing modified A-arm/bridge and revamped crashbars. A-arm (1/2"shorter) by Dave and bridge by Tyson and I (1/2" longer). The 155 tire in photos just fits with 1/8" clearance on both sides. Took it for a ride with stock front wheel up to 100 mph, and let go on bars at high and low speed. No nasty habits any speed or cornering, and steering is a lot lighter and responsive. Makes it feel like the wheel base is shorter. Adjusted torque arm 1/2" longer which put final drive at stock angle to paralever. Definetly the hot set-up and looks pretty bad-ass with that knobby 155. Crash bars may be over the top. We'll see how it feels with the hack attached soon."
Thanks Dave.DB
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