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Old 05-15-2013, 07:18 PM   #511
One Less Harley
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Location: Bowling Green, Ky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post


That looks like the R100GS tank I sold some time back. as I had the decal custom made, but I thought it went out west ..of the Mississippi somewhere. The harbor freight tire changer is adequate with a few minor modifications, mine works great now, added little derlin plastic pieces to protect the rim and a no mar bar and someother things. I think you can get the derlin pieces from Marc Parnes..
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:23 PM   #512
NoVa Rider
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Derlin blocks for HF tire changer from:

http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoblocks.htm
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:28 PM   #513
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I could never get mine to work without at some point in the procedure standing on top of the thing. I had to give it up. At this point I can only do them first time if I take it outside about a hundred feet in to the treeline.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:34 PM   #514
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 photo 86F28FCB-A842-4871-B5DD-AAFA8F31103C-6379-00000BAF7A7DA4CC_zpsf6c9440c.jpg

My tire changer looks a lot like my dishwasher.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:08 PM   #515
One Less Harley
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OK I admit, I only use the HF changer on tubless tires (R1150RS), lever on the G/S and DRZ, just about as quick. I've also got the nifty tire changer that Pine Mt Racing did the group buy on, works great. But levering tires on makes good real world practice.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:06 AM   #516
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Another Decision

Well, I got back my machined hub and I threw it on to the Mono-lever final rive and it was sticking pretty good ... so I needed to find out what I could do. And I'd like to have your collective inputs ...

First off, the hub was machined correctly. It's measurements now match the mono hub. However, the spoke mounts are the problem. Once the hub is bolted (and correctly torqued) to the final drive, it doesn't move. I loosened the bolts enough so that it would turn (while rubbing against the issue, thus marking it) .... and the pictures now show the rub.

The mono-hub for reference:


Measuring the milled hub: (you can see the difference here, the smooth lip of the mono hub, and the flush nipple mounts on the GS hub)


The rub on the milled hub:


The rub on the final drive:


So to solve the problem I have three options:
1. Grind down the inside of the hub. I don't like this option because I'd have to do it again once the nipples are in place, and from a structural standpoint, I don't like this option.

2. Grind down the ridge in the final drive. (I'm leaning towards this option) There are two 'lips on the final drive and the ridge on hub fits in between them. This to me seems like a fair solution.

3. Machine a spacer between the final drive and the hub. It would have to be about 2mm thick, and while this is also a viable solution, the brake pad would no longer 'completely' sit on the brake shoe, and we would also be creating another mating surface. Both of those reasons make me lean toward solution 2. EDIT: Also there would be a 2mm (or the depth of the spacer) gap between the lip on the final drive and the lip on the hub. I'm guessing that those lips are there to keep the big particulates out of the final drive, and rear brake assembly.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:20 PM   #517
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I can't imagine 2mm would be a structural issue, or put the shoes off the drum!?! Assuming it messes with the shoes, why not 1mm off each, the final, and the hub?
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:24 PM   #518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houseoffubar View Post
I can't imagine 2mm would be a structural issue, or put the shoes off the drum!?! Assuming it messes with the shoes, why not 1mm off each, the final, and the hub?
That's an idea ... but I actually think that 1mm off the hub might be a problem ... as the mounts for the nipples are flush with the lip of the hub. And then the nipples would have to loose 1mm as well ...

I'm probably over thinking this ... Hit it with a hammer and call it good?
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:36 PM   #519
Houseoffubar
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I see that now, that is tight
I believe that BMW offers a spacer, I have read up to 12mm, to offset the wheel, for swing arm/ tire clearance. Is that an option?
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:43 PM   #520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houseoffubar View Post
I see that now, that is tight
I believe that BMW offers a spacer, I have read up to 12mm, to offset the wheel, for swing arm/ tire clearance. Is that an option?
That is an option, the spacer .. It is. I really like the geometry if I can grind off of the final drive. I wouldn't have another mating surface, and I could transfer the offset to the spokes, where it should be. It will be nice and tight, and that is the intent of the original design. By my measurement the height of the second lip is 4mm ... so, I have 4mm to play with. Not bad. I could grind off all of it, and I should be good ...

Ya think?
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:59 PM   #521
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Sounds good to me, but what do I know?!?
It is such a small amount I cant see the harm.
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:03 PM   #522
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Oh looky looky!

See what Steven Bottcher had to do? He did it off the hub, with no ill effects. You can see how taking off the meat that he did exposed some of the nipple passages that I was worried about. I'm starting to think the hub is where I need to remove material!

Oh ... StephenB ... once again, you have shown me the light.

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Old 05-19-2013, 08:21 AM   #523
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I didn't really have the perfect tool for this, so I took out the cut-off saw and went to work. I cut the first one one neurotically, 3mm deep and then simply tried to make the rest look like the first.

So ... they wound up looking like this.



And the result worked! (Click on the pic)

 video 59F7E09E-B882-408E-9FCD-DC87AB1B86C5-4497-000004FC2F92163D_zps69aadb91.mp4
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:44 AM   #524
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Ha! That's the most Fred video I've ever seen.
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:40 AM   #525
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Heh ... Maybe I need to remind you of this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
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