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Old 05-21-2013, 01:22 PM   #6286
Sambucas
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Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
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Quote:
Hello Sambucas, look here in my country I will remove the water pump because it was losing water and mixed with oil, when taking it out I saw it was broken the seal, searching and searching I finally found a car and place it.
The stamp used is that of MITSUBISHI SAPPORO and stay barbarian.
Other things that I did to the water pump is to change the bearing you have, you remove the factory brings, will fill the shaft and place two bearings that are easier to achieve with a separator and am very well.
I hope you serve my comment.......

Hola Kurt Lain,

Muchas gracias por tu respuesta! Hablo un poco Espanol (de Argentina!) pero necesitaba Google Translate para entender todas las cosas technicas. Pero ahora, si entiendo! :)

Que bueno que el sello del Mitshubishi Sapphoro tambien anda en el Honda NX 250! :) Aca en Afrique no hay Mitshubishi Sapphoro's igual, pero se puede intentar otros vehiculos, parece! Que bien idea!

Iqual parece que vamos a tener el sello original del Honda NX 250 mandado a Tanzania desde Holanda. Asi que vamos a tener el sello y eso no va a ser el tema.

El tema es que no soy seguro como sacar el eje. Vos usaste calor para calentar el cubierto para sacar el eje???

Me parece bien aviso para usar dos rulemanes cuando pongo el eje de nuevo. Voy a ver si puedo hacerlo tambien.

Espero que puedas contarme como sacaste el eje... Gracias!

Saludos!


Hi Kurt Lain,

Thank you very much for your answer! I speak a little Spanish (from Argentina!) But I needed Google Translate to understand all technical things. But now, I understand! :)

Good thing the seal of a Mitshubishi Sapphoro will also work in the Honda NX 250! :) Here in Africa there are no Mitshubishi Sapphoro's for that matter, but you can try other vehicles to source seals, it seems! That's a good idea!

Anyway, it seems that we will have the original seal of the Honda NX 250 sent to Tanzania from Holland. So we will have the seal and that will not be the issue.

The issue is that I'm not sure how to get the shaft out of the crankcase cover. Did you use heat to heat the cover and get the shaft out???

Sounds good to use two bearings when you put the shaft in again. I'll see if I can do it too.

I hope you can tell me how you got the shaft out of the engine cover... Thank you!

Greetings!
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:36 PM   #6287
Orkodelamuerte
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Location: Argentina, Cordoba
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KURT LAIN View Post
Hola Sambucas, mira yo acá en mi país le saque la bomba de agua porque perdía y se mezclaba el agua con el aceite, cuando la saque vi que estaba roto el sello, buscando y buscando al final encontré de un auto y se lo coloque.
El sello que utilice es el del MITSUBISHI SAPPORO y quedo barbaro.
Otras de las cosas que el hice a la bomba de agua es cambiarle el rodamiento que tiene, le saque el que trae de fabrica, le rellene el eje y le coloque dos rulemanes que son mas fáciles de conseguir con un separador y quedo muy bien.
Espero que te sirva mi comentario.
Translation:

(...) took apart the water pump because it had a leak and water was interacting wih the oil. When I disassembled it, I noticed the gasket was worn, and after some seeking I found a car gasket that suited just fine. The gasket I used came from a MITSUBISHI SAPPORO.

Another thing that I did to the water pump is that I replaced the stock bearings. Basically, I refilled the axis so that I could fit in some brand new easy-to-get bearings and washer and it worked just fine (...)

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Old 05-21-2013, 02:18 PM   #6288
Sambucas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadDoc View Post
Hi everyone, anyone's got experience whether you can adjust the preload nut without removing the handlebar? Many thx
Hi MadDoc,
I just tightened my 'steering bearing adjustment nut' (that is the preload nut you mean, I presume?) today! :)

I did remove the handlebar, because it is not too much work and it was a bit in the way. I took out the 4 bolts holding the handlebar and just had the handlebar hanging 5 cm more to the back. That gave me much more room to untighten the 'steering stem nut' and to take out those 4 bolts was only 2 minutes, really.

But I am sure that you can do it with the handlebar attached. But then your spanner to untighten the 'steering stem nut' has to be low enough. (mine wasn't, because I used a thick adjustable spanner, but I have done it that way with a normal spanner.)

When you go adjusting the 'steering bearing adjustment nut', I think it actually helps to have the handlebar attached again, at least that's what I did, because it makes it easier to judge the right tension on the bearing.

I 'adjusted' or actually tightened (my nut was really way too loose) my 'steering bearing adjustment nut' by putting a screwdriver in the big grooves and slamming the screwdriver with a hammer. Not very charming maybe, but very efficient when you don't have the right tool and don't have enough space (because I didn't even take off my plastic side covers, etc.)

Beware of overtightening of the steering bearing adjustment nut, because when you overtighten it, you will end up next to the road on the first strong turn that you will ride... I have heard bad stories from guys who over-tightened their steering bearings, if only by a little. Better a little bit too slack, than a little bit too tight. (Before today my bearings have been extremely slack for 2 years and it never really bothered me, except when braking hard, when I could feel the excessive play really well.)

Happy adjusting and good luck! :)
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:06 PM   #6289
KURT LAIN
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Acá están las fotos de como desarme, haber si te sirven para que te orientes.
El ruleman va clavado en la tapa.











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Old 05-22-2013, 08:35 AM   #6290
Orkodelamuerte
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Location: Argentina, Cordoba
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valvecrusher View Post
The plastic cap is a 'splash guard'.....basically when you are riding hard, that keeps a fuel supply 'pooled' around the main jet..

Still thinking that you must have a 'blocked airway'...
(where it's blocked, and with what, i don't know)
(mine also would slowly accelerate, decently...but when ripping open the throttle, it would buck, miss and jerk)

It's just TOO ODD that i blocked my airway(accidentally) and had the EXACT same symptoms...

PG check:
290Ω - 360Ω at 68°F(20°C)
use a multimeter

Did you open the airbox? take out the air filter? check behind it?
check in front of the carb inlet?

Did you replace the spark plug with a new one?

I replaced my original CR9-eh9 with a CR9-EhIX9...
runs WAY better...cleaner response, much better 'burn', improved throttle response..
Quote:
Originally Posted by hrothgarbike View Post
So the better question is, did it look worn? Any place the needle can contact can and will wear. I don't remember what mine looked like exactly when I tore it out, but any ovaling of the main upper orifice will effectively change the taper of the needle at given points. I don't know much about the CDI on the NX but it seems to be fuel influenced to me rather than spark. The problem being mid throttle and specific RPM range is very carb specific. Again, I don't know the NX carba s well as others, but the needle taper, throttle cutaway, and the emulsion tube are directly responsible for mid throttle response. If you have done a thorough cleaning of all the little holes in the carb, it leaves only a few things. The emulsion tube needs to be examined with a magnifying glass quite often to see ovaling of the top orifice.

One other possibility of your stumble is the accelerator pump. Mine is a bit hyperactive or hypoactive. I am not sure but under a throttle whack it does not do as it should. It does work better under a hard roll on. The accelerator pump on the NX is crude with no good adjustments that I could find.

I wonder what air tube is open and active with a 1/3 or larger throttle opening? Again, I don't know the NX carb intimately. I cleaned mine super well, inspected all the jets, fixed the accelerator pump, and the needle and put her together. That fixed almost all my woes.
So... couldn't leave u hanging there without telling u what finally happened.. I feel rather ashamed for telling this... all this time thinking that it was such a complex issue, and I was not seeing the big picture here... so, the winner is...... Valvecrusher!!!!!

I took out the seat, took a there-u-are glance at the airway only to find a small plastic piece of sth screwed to the entrance and blocking half the airway.. It was so neat that I thought it was part of the bike.. so the previous owner must have done it (dont know why). Took it out in 15 seconds and voila!! Forgot about tearing the carb apart for 87th time or anything else..

I'll soon post some pics of the improvement I've done on refurbishing my nixie..

Thanks to all for the brainstorming... this forum rocks!
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:52 AM   #6291
valvecrusher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post
So... the winner is...... Valvecrusher!!!!!


Thanks to all for the brainstorming... this forum rocks!
GREAT! glad you are riding and not putting up with that issue any longer!



I find it completely AWESOME, and also remarkable that you posted that 'symptom', and the very same/very next day i actually duplicated it by pure accident.



It was strange knowing that (I) had that problem, and was reading you describing the exact same symptoms....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valvecrusher
It's just too bad that i'm 100% sure that your bike's issue is not the same as mine....but oddly, i had that exact experience last night..
LOL, or I'm 100% wrong





and man, let me say, if you (anyone out there) has those symptoms, i can't imagine that trying to ride that NX would be ANY fun at all...





but i have had Honda's act very similar when having a bad 'Pulse Generator' ...


Luckily, mine was riding fine(as usual) and when i pulled the seat, my registration papers got sucked over the airbox air inlet...


so i went from riding, to 'missing engine, pinging, and knocking, and sputtering and jerking'... and, the only difference in my case was that i popped off the seat and i guess, knocked the papers loose..?





Good times!
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valvecrusher screwed with this post 05-22-2013 at 10:28 AM
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:19 AM   #6292
Orkodelamuerte
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Almost there!!

Ok, so now that all my engine/carb issues are over, I invested some time and effort on getting it pretty... so I went from this...






to this...







Getting close...
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:40 PM   #6293
Sambucas
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Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KURT LAIN View Post
Acá están las fotos de como desarme, haber si te sirven para que te orientes.
El ruleman va clavado en la tapa.
Muchas gracias, Kurt Lain! Si, me sirven tus fotos! :) Todavia estoy esperando para los partes, pero en unos dias puedo sacar el eje tambien! Saludos desde Africa.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:42 PM   #6294
Sambucas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkodelamuerte View Post
Ok, so now that all my engine/carb issues are over, I invested some time and effort on getting it pretty... so I went from this...

to this...

Getting close...
Te felicito! Muy guapa!!!
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:36 PM   #6295
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Valvecrusher...From the start I installed all new parts, the only old part used was the float and slide, only used wire on the carb passages. This weekend I will remove the carb and ry the bottom slot on the needle. First test drive ran great but I never tried to go over 45 mph, next day went for a ride and would not go over 55 mph. And now it will only idle with choke on the die if I try to give it gas. It leads me to think it's getting to much air and nt enough gas.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:45 AM   #6296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp350 View Post
Valvecrusher...From the start I installed all new parts,

only used wire on the carb passages.

and ry the bottom slot on the needle.

would not go over 55 mph.

I never use 'wire' on anything in the carb...only compressed air, or by dipping/boiling...


NX2's jet needle is adjustable?



Did you go with factory carb main 'jet' sizing? or did you change jet sizes?
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:48 PM   #6297
less=more
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Hello Sambucas, I have found a part on the internet that should fit as a mechanical seal for the Honda NX250. It's a part of Tour max and should be the same as it's used in the NSR125.

Here's the link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanical...item3a81657aa1

After contacting the seller, the dimensions of the part (OE: 19217-pa5-003) are:
outer diameter: 30mm & 35mm to outer ridge
inner diameter: 14.25mm
width: 16.4mm

Could you kindly let us know if the sizes matches with the existing Honda seal when you take it apart or compare it with your new received seal?
When a match is present we'll have a partnumber to order as well (Honda stock is slinking for this model) in case of waterpump leakage.
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:05 PM   #6298
trailKing
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Finally got the NX out on an honest ride this spring now that the weather is nice and the passes are opening up here in the Rockies!
OEM Honda CDI fixed the issues I had with the bike last year. Starts, runs, and charges like a champ! Only issue I have now is a faint noise from the front wheel. I'm guessing its a wheel bearing going out? I can't hear it all the time and only at slow speed.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:36 PM   #6299
larry31
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Photos

Quote:
Originally Posted by trailKing View Post
Finally got the NX out on an honest ride this spring now that the weather is nice and the passes are opening up here in the Rockies!
OEM Honda CDI fixed the issues I had with the bike last year. Starts, runs, and charges like a champ! Only issue I have now is a faint noise from the front wheel. I'm guessing its a wheel bearing going out? I can't hear it all the time and only at slow speed.
Great pix. I love to get my bike "immortalized" in different places.
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:28 AM   #6300
muzcuk
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Fork oil for progressive springs

Hey guys! I am using 15 weight fork oil with my old fork springs with 1" preloaders. Now my Hagon progressive springs have arrived and I am wondering what grade oil I should use with them. I'd like to get it right first time as fork oil is expensive.

Do you think I should go down to 5, or maybe 10? Any experience? Comments?
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