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Old 05-24-2013, 04:45 PM   #4666
clapped_r6
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Location: Ridgefield, WA
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is anyone running a different offset for the triples?

i know the geometry changed for 08, (my 200 steered off the front a whole lot better)

what are options, besides a frame swap? i remember reading about some different triples, but can't seem to find it now.

tia
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:30 PM   #4667
team ftb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
is anyone running a different offset for the triples?

i know the geometry changed for 08, (my 200 steered off the front a whole lot better)

what are options, besides a frame swap? i remember reading about some different triples, but can't seem to find it now.

tia

I used 17 degree offset Topars and steered a bit better.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:00 AM   #4668
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
is anyone running a different offset for the triples?

i know the geometry changed for 08, (my 200 steered off the front a whole lot better)

what are options, besides a frame swap? i remember reading about some different triples, but can't seem to find it now.

tia

What are you trying to achieve, better stability or better turning?
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:21 AM   #4669
clapped_r6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
What are you trying to achieve, better stability or better turning?
better turning. i have proper springs for my weight, i run the chain in the longer wheelbase configuration, and i just can't trust the front. it feels like it wants to wash out if i'm not on the gas.

i know the newer (08) chassis was supposed to be way better in this regard, just looking to see if anyone has made the RFS turn a bit better like the newer stuff. (used to have an 08 200 xc-w that steered off the front extremely well, which i know is apples and oranges comparison , but have read stuff about the 08 XC4 chassis being similar?)

as a d/s bike it works great, fast on trails it's a bit vague. i see that there's a variety of different offset triples, however i don't exactly understand the differences and what they do.

don't want to reinvent the wheel!
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:09 PM   #4670
selaznog
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Rt 66 & The Rio Grande
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Originally Posted by bryantjt View Post
Jumper around it. Use a heavy wire, 12 gauge or better and touch it to the starter stud and the battery positive terminal. This will tell you if the starter itself is good.

If the starter is good you now know there is either a problem with the start button or the solenoid.

The start button can be checked with the continuity function on a multimeter. Find the 2 wires for it behind the headlight and plug your lead into the connector and try the button. If the meter beeps or gives a reading (depending on type of meter) then the button is good.

Then you can take your meter and flip to dc voltage and touch one lead to the positive lead on the solenoid (probably in your airbox) and the other to battery negative or chassis ground.

If that shows battery voltage that wire is good.

Then connect to ground (or battery) and connect to the lead leaving the solenoid that goes to the starter and watch the meter when you try the start button. You should see battery voltage and the starter should work if all is good.

If not it could be one of 2 fuses on the solenoid or a bad connection between start button and solenoid. You can check for voltage at the solenoid connectors when pressing the start button.


I went through all of the above and found no voltage out from the solenoid when hitting the start button so I bought a new one and that made no difference. Following my wire diagram in the owners manual I found that most everything is grounded in the bolt at the coil. This bolt was loose in my case. I cleaned the connection and tightened the bolt and all is well.
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Thank you.

One of the fuses by the solenoid was blown. I now have a starter. BUT, the headlight, tail light and brake light do not work. Is there a separate fuse somewhere? Other likely cause? It doesn't seem likely the headlight switch is bad, as the rear lights do not work, and the same switch works the turn signals and horn, which both work.

Edit: the headlight and rear lights do not work when the engine is running.

selaznog screwed with this post 05-27-2013 at 06:19 PM
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:29 PM   #4671
bryantjt
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Mine being an 06 had to have a Baja Designs ds kit installed for lighting so I have a separate harness and fuse for lights. I would start with the wiring diagram in the manual and back track through grounds and fuses.

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Old 05-27-2013, 06:57 PM   #4672
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selaznog View Post
Thank you.

One of the fuses by the solenoid was blown. I now have a starter. BUT, the headlight, tail light and brake light do not work. Is there a separate fuse somewhere? Other likely cause? It doesn't seem likely the headlight switch is bad, as the rear lights do not work, and the same switch works the turn signals and horn, which both work.

Edit: the headlight and rear lights do not work when the engine is running.
Pretty sure the HL/TL on the exe are run off A/C Steve, that's going to have a seperate input directly from the stator wires, different from the TS & Horn which are D/C and run off the batt. Not sure about a fuse in the circuit though, Akasy just had his apart, he could probably tell ya.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:18 PM   #4673
MKJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selaznog View Post
Thank you.

One of the fuses by the solenoid was blown. I now have a starter. BUT, the headlight, tail light and brake light do not work. Is there a separate fuse somewhere? Other likely cause? It doesn't seem likely the headlight switch is bad, as the rear lights do not work, and the same switch works the turn signals and horn, which both work.

Edit: the headlight and rear lights do not work when the engine is running.
Did you check all the fuses inside the side cover behind the air box? that is where your starter fuse should be.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #4674
selaznog
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Location: Rt 66 & The Rio Grande
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Originally Posted by MKJ View Post
Did you check all the fuses inside the side cover behind the air box? that is where your starter fuse should be.
I only saw two 10A fuses. Are there more?
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:53 AM   #4675
selaznog
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Location: Rt 66 & The Rio Grande
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Pretty sure the HL/TL on the exe are run off A/C Steve, that's going to have a seperate input directly from the stator wires, different from the TS & Horn which are D/C and run off the batt. Not sure about a fuse in the circuit though, Akasy just had his apart, he could probably tell ya.
Again, I don't know crap about electrics, but...

If the HL/TL worked without the motor running (before this mess started), then wouldn't they not be powered by a separate stator input but instead by a battery?

Also, I have a TrailTech stator, so isn't everything DC now?

This is the problem with a factory street legal bike. If I had needed to install all this electrical stuff myself, then I'd know what everything was.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:19 AM   #4676
bryantjt
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Yes, if they worked before with the motor off they are on a circuit that is battery powered. Could also be that whatever blew the fuse popped the same bulbs.

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Old 05-28-2013, 10:24 AM   #4677
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selaznog View Post
Again, I don't know crap about electrics, but...

If the HL/TL worked without the motor running (before this mess started), then wouldn't they not be powered by a separate stator input but instead by a battery?

Also, I have a TrailTech stator, so isn't everything DC now?

This is the problem with a factory street legal bike. If I had needed to install all this electrical stuff myself, then I'd know what everything was.
Yup, the TT system converts everything over to DC. sounds like a fuse or a connection. Did you check that little bracket behind the headlight that holds all the connectors? One of those might have come loose.
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:29 PM   #4678
selaznog
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Location: Rt 66 & The Rio Grande
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryantjt View Post
Yes, if they worked before with the motor off they are on a circuit that is battery powered. Could also be that whatever blew the fuse popped the same bulbs.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
Bulbs, as in light bulbs? I actually had a HID system installed when things stopped working, but I have disconnected it and have a known good bulb plugged in so that I minimize complexity while troubleshooting.

So the weird thing is that when I lost the starter I still had lights for at least a while.

Chris, yes, I looked behind the light but didn't see anything obvious. I sprayed the entire area with compressed air and fiddled with all the connections that are visible. I think it's time to trace wires with the diagram. . I'll take the bike to sipapu either way. There shouldn't be a shortage of knowledgeable people willing to speculate over a beer.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:52 PM   #4679
DRjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
better turning. i have proper springs for my weight, i run the chain in the longer wheelbase configuration, and i just can't trust the front. it feels like it wants to wash out if i'm not on the gas.
I have a slightly modified 520exc and I fitted the 16mm (I think) offset triple clamps to it.
I was amazed at the difference in the front end.
It just grips and turns in so much better.

In theory less offset = more trail which should make the bike way more stable and a lot harder to turn in tight but in reality I got the best of both worlds with increased stability and the ability to actually turn in tight without the front end going by by.

The steering is heavier but on the plus side I don't have to use the damper as much anymore.
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:41 PM   #4680
Gunslinger1
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good information on offset here
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