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Old 05-24-2013, 12:33 PM   #8911
The Letter J
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Oddometer: 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by OhBoy View Post
Final Drive Ratio...anyone running 13/45?
Going for a ride which will demand more creeping than cruising.
I've looked at http://www.gearingcommander.com
I think I can live with the drop from 73 to 63 in 6th gear @ 5250 rpm.

More shifting for sure but, I want to reduce the amount of "riding the clutch" when picking my way thru large rocks and ruts.

KTM has some steel sprockets stocked locally for about 29 bucks.

Never changed a sprocket, it doesn't look like brain surgery. I remember reading somewhere, someone, said dropping to a 13 was too much. I dont want to screw with the rear sprocket...45 is good back there.

Opinions?
I tried that when I first bought the 690, I had an old 13t from an exc (same splines, no shoulder though so a spacer would have to be used unless you can find a 13t lc4 sprocket.) The chain was grinding away on top of the slider and then back downwards just to get to the 13t sprocket... in other words, it will 99% sure rip off the chain slider the very first time you apply power and immediately start cutting into the top of the swingarm (especially true with a small 45 tooth in the rear.) after seeing how bad it was just on the stand, I took it off without ever even riding it. Running 14/48 now and may go to 14/50.

As others have said, go bigger on the back, 14t is as small as I would trust up front.

edit: With the 14 up front and 48 out back, I needed to replace my chain slider and rear guide at ~7500 miles
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The Letter J screwed with this post 05-24-2013 at 12:39 PM
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:34 PM   #8912
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Thanks for the thoughts guys.
Think I got about 15k on the clock. Sprockets and chain all still top notch. Keep them well looked after!
I'll have to think about the 14/48 idea.
Cheers
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:48 PM   #8913
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Only just realised that Oberon make a replacement clutch slave cylinder, anyone tried one with a 16t front sprocket? I ask as I've heard that the Sigutech part from Germany can't be used with a 16t or larger.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:22 PM   #8914
Aaron from Texas
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Originally Posted by Possu View Post
Only just realised that Oberon make a replacement clutch slave cylinder, anyone tried one with a 16t front sprocket? I ask as I've heard that the Sigutech part from Germany can't be used with a 16t or larger.
Fits just fine. 16T and Oberon Slave. I might have a lightly used one for sale soon, see post above...
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:33 PM   #8915
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Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Sun Valley Idaho, Baja Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
So it looks like my 690 SMC will be no more. A lady pulled a U-turn in front of me a week ago, and I woke up in the hospital. Still not 100% on what happened... Or even 50%. Had all my gear on, of course, so that's why I'm still here.

The bike faired okay, but it tweaked, scratched, and bent enough things that the insurance company will total it. I don't think I want to purchase it back to ride (I was closing in on 18,000 mi), but I might purchase it back to part out, and wanted to give any of you guys first dibs. However, this all hinges on IF I buy it back.

The only parts that are absolutely trashed is the lower triple, headlight, and speedometer. Everything else faired well. Radiator mounts are tweaked, but it has no leaks, and works well.

SMC forks are in great shape, wheels are too (front has a very small ding, but it rides straight with no issues up to 110mph). Front is running Michelin Pilot Power with plenty of tread left, rear is wearing a Pilot Power 2CT with only about 1500 miles on it.

Fuel tank is in great shape, all threaded holes are still solid... I use anti-sieze on every bolt that comes out often.

I have a Renazco seat with repaired front mount. I riveted on a piece of 1/8" aluminum slotted for the bolt, so the seat doesn't move AT ALL anymore.

DID X-Ring Gold chain, front 16T sprocket, and rear 44T sprocket with only a couple thousand miles on 'em.

Euro tail and LED brake light with Integrated Turn Signals. I've wired it up so it's plug and play to the stock harness.

I have a few of the standard upgrades... Oberon Clutch Slave, Pivot Pegs (left is scratched), KTM Twins Billet Fuel Cap, ASV Levers, etc...

Frame is straight, but the main reason they "totaled" the bike is the steering stop is cracked under the neck. It's probably a 2 hour welding job, but of course they would only pay to replace it.

Engine has just under 18,000 mi on it, but it runs fantastic. I replaced both rockers within a few thousand miles, and have an RR Manual Cam Chain Tensioner.

Feel free to PM me with anything you guys would want, and I'll keep you all updated as to my decision. Trying to get a feel if it would be worth it or not. Thanks guys, I'll be back on 2 wheels soon...
Sent you a pm on parts.
Shoot me a price for the whole kit and kaboodle.

Max
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MAXVERT screwed with this post 05-24-2013 at 01:40 PM
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:41 PM   #8916
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Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Sorry to hear, good that your are doing well though.

Sounds like it was time for a new one anyway.

These 690s have been around long enough, I would guess that if you have the funds, it would be easy to part out to inmates who need a couple pieces. I recall someone who recently was looking for a tank....
Thanks mate...
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:10 PM   #8917
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Oldbear: Thanks, good info. I appreciate it.


Lee...
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:27 PM   #8918
MAXVERT
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Fuel Pump replumbing

Is there any reason that the pressure regulator return line has to go back to the pump housing ?

I'll be replacing the oem lines with the napa in tank 5/16" fuel line.
I will use the in tank filter but see no reason to use the return line.
I think I'll just leave a couple inchs (50mm.) of the original return
line.

Thoughts ?

Max
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:39 PM   #8919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhBoy View Post
Thanks for the thoughts guys.
Think I got about 15k on the clock. Sprockets and chain all still top notch. Keep them well looked after!
I'll have to think about the 14/48 idea.
Cheers
Your existing chain probably won't be long enough for a 48 rear ...

Surprised you can't get around with stock gearing, which is pretty low ...
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:50 PM   #8920
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Location: Oxford, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
Fits just fine. 16T and Oberon Slave. I might have a lightly used one for sale soon, see post above...
It would need to be cheap taking carriage and customs duty into account but feel free to give me a price.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:06 PM   #8921
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Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
So it looks like my 690 SMC will be no more. A lady pulled a U-turn in front of me a week ago, and I woke up in the hospital. Still not 100% on what happened... Or even 50%. Had all my gear on, of course, so that's why I'm still here.
Kirk! Dude that's horrible - sorry to hear that!

So they are totally the bike... how bout you? Are you gonna be 100%?
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:07 PM   #8922
dad2bike
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAXVERT View Post
Is there any reason that the pressure regulator return line has to go back to the pump housing ?

I'll be replacing the oem lines with the napa in tank 5/16" fuel line.
I will use the in tank filter but see no reason to use the return line.
I think I'll just leave a couple inchs (50mm.) of the original return
line.

Thoughts ?

Max
I think that may effect how you get fuel under low fuel (reserve) conditions. When you get down to the bottom there could be a lag time between when the fuel leaves the regulator and when it is available for pumping again. This could cause air in the pump. By returning to the suction cavity it is immediately ready for pumping.

It wasn't that tough to do the in tank lines when I relocated my filter outside. I used 12" for each line. perfect fit.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:30 PM   #8923
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Heal good and fast Kirk the Jerk

Good to hear you survived the actions of a careless driver. Too bad about the bike, too. Get your fair compensation. Your body and your time is worth something ($).


God Bless
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:41 PM   #8924
MAXVERT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
I think that may effect how you get fuel under low fuel (reserve) conditions. When you get down to the bottom there could be a lag time between when the fuel leaves the regulator and when it is available for pumping again. This could cause air in the pump. By returning to the suction cavity it is immediately ready for pumping.

It wasn't that tough to do the in tank lines when I relocated my filter outside. I used 12" for each line. perfect fit.
In my case the "suction cavity" has many holes drilled in it for
better fuel pickup.
I'll try it without the return line and see how it works.

Max
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:46 PM   #8925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAXVERT View Post
In my case the "suction cavity" has many holes drilled in it for
better fuel pickup.
I'll try it without the return line and see how it works.

Max
When I ran mine without the return line I never noticed a difference, and that was without any extra inlet holes in the cup. Since, I have added a lot of holes and added back the return line.

I guess my thinking was that in lower fuel conditions it will simply help to ensure that there is better cooling of the pump. I think that if you were to really run it low then the pump, in the upper portion of the cup, would be exposed and the only way to cool it is the return fuel. This could possibly only be an issue for the last 5 minutes of fuel usage, 10 minutes, I'm not really sure about that part is the thing. And further, how often do you run it in on fumes?

I was thinking, "better safe than sorry." However, I am starting to consider safety wiring the bulk of fasteners on my 690 to ensure they stick around for a real long, hard ride. (I have been having issues even with red locktite) So, maybe you should take me with a grain of salt.
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