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Old 05-24-2013, 04:46 PM   #35746
Sewerat
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But I stand most of the time on gravel roads?

Peg concepts?????
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:53 PM   #35747
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
But I stand most of the time on gravel roads?

Peg concepts?????
Dr. Schols You be gellin
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:44 PM   #35748
Pete-NZ
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Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
It looks like to me that they use the WR250F engine in those bikes so they are not related to the WR250R/X in any way.
Thats a pitty... Would have been a great bike...
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:06 PM   #35749
CJ smith
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What the fork?

[IMG][/IMG]

I've managed to get my forks apart, drained, etc. Now I'm looking at the damper rod and base valve, scratching my head with oily fingers. The service manual says something about a damper rod holder and now that I've almost completely stripped out the bottom base valve piece by attempting to just unscrew it from the bottom I'm thinking this tool must be key.
[IMG][/IMG]

So the less winded form of my question is- How do I remove the base valve and damper rod assembly and is this damper rod holder tool absolutely necessary or can it be improvised?
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:39 PM   #35750
Bogus Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ smith View Post
is this damper rod holder tool absolutely necessary or can it be improvised?
You can make the tool out of a piece of PVC or copper pipe. Cut 4 slots at 90 degrees to fit over the blades on the damper rod. I could post a photo of the one I made (if I can find it) if you'd like.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:01 PM   #35751
Sewerat
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What are you attempting to do that you need this tool for? I replaced my seals without it?
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:11 PM   #35752
CJ smith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogus Jim View Post
You can make the tool out of a piece of PVC or copper pipe. Cut 4 slots at 90 degrees to fit over the blades on the damper rod. I could post a photo of the one I made (if I can find it) if you'd like.
Or better yet, if you know the dimensions that'd be greatly appreciated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
What are you attempting to do that you need this tool for? I replaced my seals without it?
I got the seals part down i think, its the replacing the lower fork leg that makes things get a little more involved. This crash is getting $$$ and Im look to avoid any specialty tool fees.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:04 PM   #35753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ smith View Post
if you know the dimensions that'd be greatly appreciated.
This looks a little different than I remember, but I'm sure it's for the WRR. Did a revalve a couple years ago and haven't had the forks apart since.

1 inch (inside diameter) PVC pipe. The 4 pins are 1/2" long and about 5/16" wide.




If you don't have a 14mm hex to fit inside the base valve, you could use a grade 8 bolt with 14mm or 9/16" head. Put a double locknut on the bolt, then place the bolt head in the base valve and put your wrench on the locknut. Best to use a 14mm hex wrench though.

The factory puts loctite on the base valve so it may be hard to break loose.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:17 PM   #35754
Sewerat
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I have in the past used ratchet straps to fully compress the fork then hit the bottom bolt with an impact gun. Make sure it's in reverse first. All you need to do is hold the inside from turning while you undo the bolt.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:03 PM   #35755
pjm204
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Picked up my WRR tonight and I now see what all the fuss is about. The engine is silky smooth. 140 miles of highway in rain that ranged from annoying mist to full on downpour and I was still smiling.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:42 PM   #35756
AZ TOM
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[/IMG]

So the less winded form of my question is- How do I remove the base valve and damper rod assembly and is this damper rod holder tool absolutely necessary or can it be improvised?[/QUOTE]

OMG what have you done
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:00 AM   #35757
CJ smith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post

OMG what have you done
That is the result of months without a proper ride, waiting for parts and loosing patience- This "Get the damn thing back together and go ride" attitude is taking a toll on the poor WRR.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogus Jim View Post

1 inch (inside diameter) PVC pipe. The 4 pins are 1/2" long and about 5/16" wide.


If you don't have a 14mm hex to fit inside the base valve, you could use a grade 8 bolt with 14mm or 9/16" head. Put a double locknut on the bolt, then place the bolt head in the base valve and put your wrench on the locknut. Best to use a 14mm hex wrench though.

The factory puts loctite on the base valve so it may be hard to break loose.
Thanks Jim, even if I have to make a trip to the hardware store, I'm sure some PVC & a little elbow grease is cheaper than the Yamaha tool. A 14mm hex head was what I was looking for last night but I settled for the tool that fit provided in the factory tool kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sewerat View Post
I have in the past used ratchet straps to fully compress the fork then hit the bottom bolt with an impact gun. Make sure it's in reverse first. All you need to do is hold the inside from turning while you undo the bolt.
I might try this if I can't find any PVC, thanks.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:56 AM   #35758
Ken Mandu
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As a new guy here, can someone tell me how to make use of this gargantuan thread? It's obviously too big to read from the start! Can other threads be started that are wr250r specific, like about suspension or something?

Thanks.

Ken
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:58 AM   #35759
Rapid Dog
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Try the WR250R Forum (google it). There's some decent info over there broken into specifics. Lots of opinions though..........
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:05 AM   #35760
Ken Mandu
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Thanks. I signed up over there about 20 minutes ago, under the same name. I just bought my new 2012 Tuesday in Latrobe, PA. Been about 15 years since I've been on a dirt bike, four years since I sold my Sportster. Good times ahead.
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