JTH's HD 883 Dual Sport'ster conversion

I hope Jimmy doesn't mind me quoting him a bit. In his email, he mentioned that he stayed with 1" and used Bitwell Tracker bars with Joker Machine clamp.

Bitwell Trackers handlebar
Joker Machine clamp (He said it can be ordered thru Joker Machine directly.

Hope this help?

Now speaking of handlebar, I wonder how much does that handlebar weight?

Thanks WAWC. I started thinking that was what he did after looking at pics

Correct on the 1" dia bars. I wanted to keep the Sportster hand controls and throttle as is. Biltwell tracker bars and originally joker machine clamps, but now it has my own bar riser clamps with rubber dampers and triple clamps with integrated steering stabilizer.

The new risers provide side access to the steering stabilizer sweep control valves where the joker machine did not.

I prefer the HD controls to the BMW one I have but I am using protaper bars so 1" controls are out of the question. I wish I could though.

Yeah, I can't blame you.. my reason for going 7/8" is because when I did TAT near Richfield, UT I crashed my KLR650 and finding 7/8" handlebar was easy and cheap. I figured that if I was traveling outside the lower 48, I might want to go with something that is common should I crash sportster real bad.

You could get the spacer for that and it cost only $19.99 + shipping? Just a thought?

What spacer and where can they be found?

A space that shims from 1" down to 7/8" would be wierd and it has to be tightenable right?

Here: http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/JOKER-MACHINE-HAND-CONTROL-ADAPTER-SLEEVES

+1 For some odd reason, I can't find it on Joker Machine's website?

Edit: You know, I might have to think about getting this adapter and still use the 7/8" handlebar?? I have considered that since it would be cheaper for me?

Time to do the new exhaust - Ive got enough miles on and off-road on this now to know what this bike needs. Ive decided to go back to a 2:1 low pipe that will hug the lower frame rail and then exit upswept past the foot controls and terminates in an upswept muffler. The look and function will be similar to a Dakar rally type exhaust where they need to route the pipe low and away from rear fuel tanks.

Benefits:
- Able to stand on the pegs without any leg interference with the pipe
- Less leg heat
- Should be much lighter than the Supertrapp exhaust

Cons:
- Low and more vulnerable - but I have a lot of ground clearance, so not a big concern. I can also extend the skid plate to cover the exhaust if needed.


So, I know what I want to do - now, I need to find a good motorcycle exhaust header fabricator in the SF bay area. Any recommendations???

Thanks!

That's why I left the stock routing on the Bandit...damn, I've got to get back on that thing.





I've got 14-16" under the headers, plan on doing a skid plate to cover the pipes too.


You know, I've always thought that your bike should do a muffler under the engine Buell style that doubles as the skid plate...something square-ish like a Flowmaster muffler with dual outputs like a hotrod. I'm a little more function over form than you though.

I made my own similar to what you are describing.
I kept the stock RT head pipe, then bought a U-bend piece of 2.25" SS auto exhaust tube and used a Ducati end mufflet that I gutted out the SS inner parts. I used one of the inner baffle plates, and the end caps. I welded in some nuts, drilled and tapped some spots, welded in a bung for the O2 sensor and a tab for a hanger bracket...I like it. It was easy. I used 304 SS rod.



More pics on the link

You guys are making me want to go buy a welder and learn how to weld! Nice work.

larryboy and kellymac,

Looks good and thanks for sharing the idea.. you don't worry about the river crossing? And I am curious what type of side box or side bag do you use? Any pic of them on with exhaust like that?

Thanks!

WAWC,
My pipe kicks up pretty high at the back so no worries on the river crossing really. Plus look at the Dakar bikes, they are about the same spot as mine and they cross some treacherous stuff. As long as the motor is running the air pushes the water outward and will mostly prevent it from coming in. Think of a Jet Ski, they push water into the exhaust on purpose for cooling and the air pressure pushes it out the exhaust end no problem.

As far as bags, I do not have mine made yet, but it is tucked in way tighter than the stock exhaust. It is in about the same as yje FD is on the right side so I have no worries on the luggage when I make it.

Just to clarify, I purposely ran the exhaust end just below the airbox inlet that way when I hear the exhaust get muffled under water I know I am getting dangerously deep to flooding the intake.

You can not see it from the pics because I am standing taking the pic from higher angles, but the pipe outlet is the same height, maybe slightly above, the top of the tire, it is pretty high.

I've had a Buell Ulysses and never worried about the exhaust, I have my 1150GS setup the same. I really like a balanced looking bike with the hard bags tucked up tight and no muffler to burn a passenger. As long as the engine is running the exhaust pushes out the water.

That bike is bad ass! Have any more pics

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726304

Well worth the read, and of course check out the subsequent ride reports

Ordering the chainsikle today.. wondering where did you get the peg and who is the maker? And is it a permanent fix or will it move backward and revert back to the position loosely like dual sport bike? I would hate to risk the damage if there were a spill because peg is a permanent fix. I was hoping for XR pegs at $20 a set but Shane told me that the size of peg would not fit in.

The peg is from Joker Machine. They have two versions - short and long. I picked the short to keep the bike width narrow. I don't remember if I bought it direct or from a distributer (i'll check). It mounts to the Chainsickle rear sets with a pivot bolt and pivots vertically upward which is different than a typical dual sport or dirt bike peg where their pegs usually pivot at a 45deg angle up and backwards. But, they do still pivot, so if(when) the bike falls over, it should rotate up. Dog paddling in sand though, or foot down sliding in a dirt corner is where its good to have the 45deg pivot so they give when your leg calves hit the pegs.

I used the stock Sportster spring clips on mine too to prevent the pegs from rattling. When you lift the peg up, it doesn't go back down by itself. You need to push it down.

Im considering changing to a more dirt oriented 45deg peg for mine now. I just need to change my mounting brackets that bolts on. I think the Joker Machine is a nice looking peg and it works fine for most riding, but in a crash or dog paddling, Id like a 45geg type with spring return. Personal taste.

Maybe you can modify the clevis width that the XR peg would fit into to make it fit?

So far, I haven't dropped mine to crash test them, so cant help there

Forgot to add - the chainsickle rear sets are fairly high and back, so for standing, it may not be ideal. I worked with Shane on custom lower brackets and new shift linkage that helped, but ultimately I had to make my own to get the pegs where I wanted them. Anyway, Shane's a good guy and im sure he'll work with you if needed.