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Old 03-18-2013, 06:25 PM   #241
vtwin OP
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Worked on the door panel for the driver's side. The old board was rotted and the upholstery was stuffed behind the seats. Had some spare masonite board and made a panel from the old.



A little spray adhesive and it's on.



Yea, it's a little wrinkly...



Hopefully the heat will flatten it out.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:30 PM   #242
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Started working on the heater controls so I could at least shut off the heat I was getting. I thought I may as well use the heater controls from the Mazda I parted out.



One of the Mazda cables reached the heater valve, but the fresh air door needed a longer one, choke cable to the rescue!



It needed to attach to here.





I still need to make a bracket to attach it to the dash and wire it up so the fan switch works with the blower I installed.

Unfortunately, the heater valve sprung a leak. I'll have to disassemble it to see if I can change an o-ring or something.

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Old 03-30-2013, 05:38 PM   #243
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Ok, I have a plan, found some brackets, for what, I don't know. Some cutting, some drilling and here are some brackets for the heater controls.








Voila! It's mounted, but it would probably look better if they were painted black.



I'll get to it some day, yeah right.

Well, at least I mounted my $6 tachometer. It even works!



I know I do need to clean up the spaghetti that's disguised as my wiring harness before I have a car-b-que.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:25 PM   #244
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just saw this online the other day.

several cool willys and a couple of wannabe willys
http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/au...SearchRadius=0

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Old 04-10-2013, 01:22 PM   #245
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I just came across some old picture of the tranny conversion I made a bunch of years back. Any of you who have attempted to put a granny gear in your Willys, you know how hard it is to come across a factory T-98, and they had a poor oiling design to boot. So I made my own adapter to mate a T-18 from a Wagoneer/J-series pickup that had the factory rear adapter to the Dana 20 (also fits the late-model Dana 18s with the large input bores). I have been running this setup for over 12 years now and have never had it apart since.

My plan involved a 1" thick aluminum adapter plate that would have a recess in the rear face that would accept a modified front nose piece from the T-18 to index it in the plate. It also had a slight recess in the front of the plate to accept the nose piece from the factory T-90 to index the plate in the F-head's bellhousing.

The input shaft from the T-18 was about 12" too long and had the wrong splines, so I sent that along with some prints, an old clutch hub spline and a pilot bushing to Moser Engineering to have them turn down the shaft and cut some new teeth in it. They charged me around $60 and had it back to me within a week!!







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Old 06-20-2013, 05:14 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR4EVER View Post
I just came across some old picture of the tranny conversion I made a bunch of years back. Any of you who have attempted to put a granny gear in your Willys, you know how hard it is to come across a factory T-98, and they had a poor oiling design to boot. So I made my own adapter to mate a T-18 from a Wagoneer/J-series pickup that had the factory rear adapter to the Dana 20 (also fits the late-model Dana 18s with the large input bores). I have been running this setup for over 12 years now and have never had it apart since.

My plan involved a 1" thick aluminum adapter plate that would have a recess in the rear face that would accept a modified front nose piece from the T-18 to index it in the plate. It also had a slight recess in the front of the plate to accept the nose piece from the factory T-90 to index the plate in the F-head's bellhousing.

The input shaft from the T-18 was about 12" too long and had the wrong splines, so I sent that along with some prints, an old clutch hub spline and a pilot bushing to Moser Engineering to have them turn down the shaft and cut some new teeth in it. They charged me around $60 and had it back to me within a week!!








Nice work! I plan on putting in my T90/D18 with the BW overdrive, should be interesting with the freewheel. And everyone warned me not to drive in 4wd with the overdrive "on".

I knew that rusty coolant was going to bite me, water pump went out. Got a Gates with lifetime warranty, made in the US? Not a chance, made in China and that took a while to find the sticker saying so. Well, it was only $30 shipped through Rockauto.

A little paint...




Also going to install this:



I've owned this for nearly 40 years, it's going on the Willys along with the Hula Girl.
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:45 PM   #247
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Want !




Quote:
Originally Posted by WMD View Post
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:20 PM   #248
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Know the old saying, "Rides like a truck", well I'm too old to get disc compressions that way. Decided that the original engine was probably the straight six and the Buick V6 is lighter, plus the Buick is set farther back. So my guess is that the front end is over sprung. Every "sleeping policeman" I hit, shakes my fillings out, very violent at any speed above a crawl. That isn't good for me or the truck. So, time to remove some leaves off the front. It has 10 leaves on each side. Weeks of PB Blasting and the nuts finally give up their near 60 year grip.


It's been suggested to remove three leaves alternating from the first.







Left side is done, now for the right side.

The shock plate isn't budging. Good thing I've got new u-bolts coming, these are going to get the die-grinder treatment! Should ride a lot better. I've also cleaned some of the grit between the leaves and sprayed some grease in between them.


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vtwin screwed with this post 06-30-2013 at 02:26 PM
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:12 AM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR4EVER View Post
I just came across some old picture of the tranny conversion I made a bunch of years back. Any of you who have attempted to put a granny gear in your Willys, you know how hard it is to come across a factory T-98, and they had a poor oiling design to boot. So I made my own adapter to mate a T-18 from a Wagoneer/J-series pickup that had the factory rear adapter to the Dana 20 (also fits the late-model Dana 18s with the large input bores). I have been running this setup for over 12 years now and have never had it apart since.

My plan involved a 1" thick aluminum adapter plate that would have a recess in the rear face that would accept a modified front nose piece from the T-18 to index it in the plate. It also had a slight recess in the front of the plate to accept the nose piece from the factory T-90 to index the plate in the F-head's bellhousing.

The input shaft from the T-18 was about 12" too long and had the wrong splines, so I sent that along with some prints, an old clutch hub spline and a pilot bushing to Moser Engineering to have them turn down the shaft and cut some new teeth in it. They charged me around $60 and had it back to me within a week!!







I have a T98 for a 4 cylinder Jeep sitting in the garage. I also have a Koenig double ended front/rear PTO and the special adapter to bolt it to the back of a Warn OD.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:42 AM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtwin View Post
Know the old saying, "Rides like a truck", well I'm too old to get disc compressions that way.
I can relate. My CJ-5 has 10 leaves in the back, plus overloads above the axle with 4 more leaves. It was used to spray weeds in road ditches, and apparently the overloads were installed to support the spray tank that was mounted in the back of the Jeep. I've ordered shorter U-bolts so I can remove the overloads, debating whether I should also remove some leaves from the main springs.

Anyway, thanks for posting the pictures.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:42 AM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
I have a T98 for a 4 cylinder Jeep sitting in the garage. I also have a Koenig double ended front/rear PTO and the special adapter to bolt it to the back of a Warn OD.
Braggart!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twotaildog View Post
...debating whether I should also remove some leaves from the main springs.
Unless they are paper thin, that is a lot of springs for an unweighted rear.
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Old 07-01-2013, 02:02 PM   #252
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Braggart!


I owned this for 10 years.
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Old 07-01-2013, 02:05 PM   #253
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:07 PM   #254
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Finally got the right front apart.



Crap!



I think that's supposed to be attached to this...

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Old 07-02-2013, 09:37 AM   #255
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So that is why they double-wrapped those springs!

I just sold a complete set of those for $20 on CL a few months ago.



At least your spring eye bolts look decent and not like this:

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