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Old 06-20-2013, 07:40 AM   #481
doogiepooch
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Location: Canton, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navin View Post
I was thinking a pair of these,

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/givi-...topracks-nylon

mounted on the sides would be pretty simple and plenty strong was the advice I got. Not really much cheaper than the loops but a little, and the attachment points are molded in. I like how easily the bags pop on/off these plates.
I'm still waffling on luggage big time. I've gone so far as had a couple different options in the cart and getting ready to pay and back out. Everything from a giant loop, to Kreiga, to the Blaze Saddle Bags (which seem to be high on the list at the moment), to the parts to make my own racks for V35's or the Pelican 1430's. Just can't make my mind up.

I did finally bite the bullet on these:
http://store.hardracing.com/cart.php...ategory_id=642
The entire time I was buying them I just kept thinking...doohickey.

I'm also not sold on the touring screen. I've only had one long ride with it on but it seems to have taken the air that was hitting me in the chest and routed it straight at my chin and up in my helmet. I'm going to give it a couple more chances, could be just "different", it was still clean with no buffeting. Maybe a lip is the answer.
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Current: 13 Ninja 300 Past: 12 KLR650, 09 Ninja 250, 98 VFR, 88 KLR650, 88 XT350, 07 ZX6R
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:20 AM   #482
Navin
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Have you gotten the head bearing failure yet DP? From the reports over on the 300 forums, it is just a matter of miles, and not a lot of them either!
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:45 AM   #483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navin View Post
Have you gotten the head bearing failure yet DP? From the reports over on the 300 forums, it is just a matter of miles, and not a lot of them either!
I don't know about failure but I've def got the wobble, that's they reason I bit the bullet and ordered the parts. Rumor has it you did a write up over there on how to replace them? I found the guy that said he copied yours but I didn't find yours, care to link it? I need to stop reading your crap you've got me looking at exhausts and tuners.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:47 AM   #484
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This is the basics, hammer and drift, a few wrenches, pretty simple job actually.

Jack up the bike, you need to have the wheel, forks and triples out so no race stand. I used a floor jack, a block of wood under the header and the side stand. You only need enough lift to get the wheel off.

Remove brake caliper, remove wheel, fender, handlebars, fork legs.

Remove upper center nut, then the lower retaining ring threaded on the stem, now the clamp will drop out the bottom so have a hand under to catch it. The upper clamp can just be pushed forward IIRC, have a towel or something handy to protect any paint however you lay it. I think I left the bars attached but you can pop them off first.

Tap out the upper/lower races and toss the square balls that are all over the floor in the trash. Remove the lower race on the stem, a few taps with a drift and it pops off, real junk.

Install races by tapping them on the outer edge with a large socket, or you can use threaded rod and washers/nuts to "press" them in. This is the hardest part, cause you can't really swing a hammer much between the fairings up to the lower race. It took me 10-15 minutes of cursing to get that one in, it kept wanting to get crooked. A longer drift to tap and a second set of helper hands might have made it much easier.

Pack the bearings with waterproof grease, Bel Ray has great stuff, green in color at any bike shop, about $5 for a tub of it. You need to jam grease in the bearing everywhere, scrape it in by cupping your palm with grease in it and scraping the bearing thru it on the edges, spin the bearing and keep it up till you can't get anymore in it, them smear them on the rollers. Smear the races too. A heavy finger of grease.

Install lower bearing on stem, again, light tapping on the inner most edge so you don't trash the bearings. Use the 90 degree method with this and the races, move the point you tap 1/4 of the way from the last tap so it goes in straight.

Assemble the triples, you can tighten the upper ring till you feel the bearings get tight while turning the triples back & forth, then just slightly back it off to release the pressure. This is called seating the bearings, just like on a car wheel or trailer wheel.

Reassemble and ride it.
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:50 AM   #485
sendler
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There are some good numbers starting to come in for the CBR500R on Fuelly.
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I thought the new Ninja300 would be a little higher than this.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:17 AM   #486
Navin
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The potential is there to moped it to 104MPG, but I'm getting 63 pretty much every tank and I'm not being especially gentle with it.
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:46 PM   #487
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63's not bad. I averaged 57'ish on my 250 w/"moderate" riding. Nice report.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:50 AM   #488
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Yeah, I don't mind it at all. Same roads, same speeds, a bit less front tire wear on my KTM 950SMR netted a regular 43 MPG so hard to complain. I've rung its neck down to 53 MPG, but I'd need a track to flog it any harder to try to drop that MPG with any regard for public safety.
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:03 AM   #489
scooterspirit
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M4 Full System Exhaust - $550
Pod Filter Conversion - $75
Pod Filter Cover (Outerwear) - $20
Area-P Tuner - $150
SSR Block Off Plate - $20O

A guy fairly close by is selling a 300, asking $4500, has 900 miles. You may have read his posts around, he's kind of a bs'r. I've heard several reasons why he's selling the bike, he says the only damage from a low speed 'drop,' is a faring scratch, but I saw some posts about how to bend the frame back straight at the foot pegs.

Basically my question is can this area-p tuner screw up the running of your bike?
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:09 AM   #490
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Nope, in fact it should greatly enhance even a stock bike, they have tunes from mild to wild that are excellent, just match the tune to your mods. Their dedicated pod tune has yet to be released so I'm running their "heavily modded air box" tune with my pods, runs great. It fills in dips in torque and adds power right to the rev limiter, Kawi failed to allow full RPMs to be effective for some reason???

Tunes are free if you change stuff too, great customer service.

The frame by the pegs? I saw that too. I wouldn't be too worried about that but I'd offer an amount that reflected that flaw.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:41 PM   #491
doogiepooch
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Navin thanks for the write up on the bearings. The issue is getting worse I've got to get that done. Might be my project over the 4th.

I finally decided I didn't like the Kawi touring screen and sent it back. Ordered the Zero Gravity Sport Touring screen and really like it, it's staying.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:10 AM   #492
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Can we get a few shots of that screen from different angles DP? Does it bring the airstream over your chest? Cleaner air/less noise? Details man!

Those bearings will bring the bike up to snuff, the stock junk really doesn't allow the better frame to shine. Why did they bother to change the frame if they left that hinge in it to the steering? Makes zero sense.
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:22 PM   #493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navin View Post
Can we get a few shots of that screen from different angles DP? Does it bring the airstream over your chest? Cleaner air/less noise? Details man!

Those bearings will bring the bike up to snuff, the stock junk really doesn't allow the better frame to shine. Why did they bother to change the frame if they left that hinge in it to the steering? Makes zero sense.
Here are a couple comparisons to the stock screen and the Kawi touring screen. And yes later this evening I'll take some of various angles showing the whole bike.
The stock screen to me, blocked basically no wind. With that said the wind hitting you was very clean but from mind chest upward I was basically getting a full blast of clean air.
The Kawi touring screen took that same blast and aimed it just below shoulder level so it shot up and in my helmet and caused a little turbulance. Still not bad at all but I was after better.
The ZG touring screen seems to have taken the air and put it just at shoulder level. So with the slight forward lean in normal stance on the bike the shoulders don't have much hitting them aside from what's going over the top of them. And the helmet seem to take the blast toward the bottom of the visor but it seems to be pretty clean air so it doesn't move my head around any. I may throw a lip on it in the future but I'm happy with the way it is right now.
I will say the mounting is a little dicked up. The holes have a larger diameter than the diameter of the mounting tabs that fit up through the screen so if you just toss it on and tighten it down its annoyingly loose. I took some small peices of 1/8 thick stiff foam rubber to space it out a little so it would truely tighten down. One side it mashed the foam flat and the other side it didn't but it's tight. Small crap like that annoys me especially when I can see it the entire time I ride so I am going to swap out the foam for some small pieces of black rubber sheet and use that to space it out and have everything even.
And if I'm being really picky I'm not crazy about the finish of the screen. You can see large indentions where they stick it in something to bend it while it's hot. Also in the creases the material spiderwebs some as it distorts to the new shape. I'll get better pics of this shortly.
Here is the stock screen...imagine it canted back and down about an inch to take up for the mirror brackets.

Here is the Kawi touring screen. Same here, canted back and down about an inch you can see the ZG screen would be approx 2" taller.

And here is just the ZG screen, more shots to come.
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doogiepooch screwed with this post 06-29-2013 at 06:07 PM
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:14 PM   #494
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Ok here are some various angles....




Here are the dimples I was talking about that were put in during the forming process....

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Old 06-29-2013, 07:43 PM   #495
ArmSC
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That screen looks really good on that bike. Nice choice in putting that on there.
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