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Old 06-21-2013, 11:31 AM   #1261
CrustyAPO
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Joined: May 2008
Location: New York state (unfortunately)
Oddometer: 438
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvpc1 View Post
Bikebits is partially right. The stock accessory socket can only handle 10 amps (not w) total draw even with the second optional socket added. A heated jacket and gloves draws about 12 amps. Your passenger will double that.

I had my dealer replace my sockets and wiring and went with a local company's product here in MI called Powerlet. The sockets are good for 15 amps each. Good Stuff.

http://www.powerlet.com/product/powe...36-harness/158

I also added a PDM 60 fuse block for the second socket.
Hopefully this is not old news. But I found on the used 2008 RT I picked up last year, if you look back under the luggage rack at the rear socket, the opposite side is set up for a socket as well. Even the bodywork has a molded in recess for the additional socket. I plan on ordering 3 sockets from Powerlet and running all of them to a Blue Seal power panel. Will make it easier to hook up the Battery Tender during the winter.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:49 PM   #1262
Yukon Ho!
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Bad Killswitch

73 degrees and sunny here in Seattle. My 2011 (with 4,432 miles) failed to self-test, no ABS and ASC warning lights, neutral no sidestand -- would not start. Friend is master BMW tech, tried many things. 911GS showed no error codes at all. Another local guru guessed (correctly) the bike had been in sun for a couple hours, and that I regularly use the killswitch to stop the motor. Said very likely bad killswitch. Tried my friend's 2012 R1200GS behavior with killswitch engaged, identical behavior (no ABS & ASC lights as usual, no startie of course.) Getting mine out of sun, cooling it down did not help.

To be eligible for warranty repair, dealer's computer must send diagnostic info direct from my bike to germany. So next Tues morning the bike will be towed to dealer. For a new killswitch. Wow.

Advice is to a) never use the killswitch, use only key to stop motor, and b) when you stop in sunshine for a while, put a hat or something over the switchgear to keep it cool. Wow. Just, wow.
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:33 AM   #1263
dirtdreamer50
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One word for that, "Ridiculous". $20+K for a bike that won't start when in the sun a while is Ridiculous. I have a '12 and I believe it has the same switchgear set up. I normally use the key to shut off the engine, but thanks for the heads up. Been told that your condition was possible, and sadly, you confirmed it. tomp dd50
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:42 AM   #1264
roadstar
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I think it was just a problem with the switch & not sun related. My 2010 sits in the sun all day at work & it starts everytime. Yes i turn the bike off all the time with the switch & then turn the key off. Next i`ll be hearing that you must use some sun tan lotion on the speedo cluster so your dials don`t burn.

Yes i am sorry for your troubles
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roadstar screwed with this post 06-23-2013 at 08:48 AM
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:46 AM   #1265
dirtdreamer50
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FWIW, this problem has been discussed on other BMW specific forums, and normally it has been associated with sitting in hot sunshine. That's why the post caught my attention. Looks like a hit or miss kind of problem with the RT's...tomp
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:34 PM   #1266
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Recieved my BMW ON & Ironbutt mags on the same day , how cool is that.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:49 PM   #1267
JBADV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post

Maybe I should buy an airhead ? I don't want to pack a box full of shims on a major tour. The only issues on a long trip should be tires and oil. IMO.
On the Twin Cam engine have the valve adjustment checked before your 12k trip , then checked again when you get back home . According to the BMW wrenches that I've talked with , the Twin Cam engines valve adjustments are very stable , unlike earlier engines . YMMV
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:11 PM   #1268
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Maybe I should buy an airhead ? I don't want to pack a box full of shims on a major tour


If your worried i`d go with a 05-09 , & if you really like an RT , go for a used police bike.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:55 PM   #1269
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadstar View Post
Maybe I should buy an airhead ? I don't want to pack a box full of shims on a major tour


If your worried i`d go with a 05-09 , & if you really like an RT , go for a used police bike.
Really it is a non-issue. The Camhead tends to stay in spec for quite some time. To be honest, even a bit out of spec is not going to hurt anything.

I did a 7300 MILE TRIP IN 08 ON AN 05 r1200gs. I not only did not change the oil or adjust the valves, I waited until 10K miles to do either. The valves were in spec anyhow. In general, the oilhead and hexheads also stay in spec after 24-30K miles.

Jim
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:07 AM   #1270
JoeyBones
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On my '11 RT camhead, I've had the valves checked at 600 miles, 5,800 miles, 12,600 miles and 15,700 miles. So far no adjustments / shims needed. Next check will be between 23K and 24k miles...
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:19 PM   #1271
HeliMark
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Add to the valves being pretty stable, my 2012 RT has 30K on it now and the valves have never been out of spec. I did change one to center it a little more, but it was still in spec, and would still be. Just did it to make it match the others.

Mark
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:33 PM   #1272
mwood7800
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05 rt. 50000 miles never needed adjusted yet
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:06 PM   #1273
barnyard
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Yesterday, I installed a new set of upper windshield arms. When I picked up the bike, the arms were either broke already or they broke on the trailer ride home. I tried. to order a replacement set, but the dealer forgot to order, which turned out good for me. Googling around, it turns out the stock units are prone to breakage and there is a nicer replacement available.

Installed them and adjusted my windscreen this morning and again this afternoon on my commute. Wow, I can have my helmet faceshield completely open and almost no buffeting hits my face.

Nice, nice, nice.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:30 PM   #1274
dirtdreamer50
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Add a Laminar Lip to the screen and even that buffeting will be gone. The lip also allows for a greater variance of how the wind hits you throughout the screens different positions. I've found a movement of 1/4 to 1/2" can make a big difference with the lip installed... tomp
No I don't work for Leo, but have used his product successfully on around eight different bikes...
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:04 AM   #1275
Deek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon Ho! View Post
....
Advice is to a) never use the killswitch, use only key to stop motor, and b) when you stop in sunshine for a while, put a hat or something over the switchgear to keep it cool. Wow. Just, wow.
That's terrible. I hope they get your switch replaced ASAP and under warranty.

I NEVER use the kill switch for anything. I stop my engine when I "park" by lowering the side stand while in gear. If the engine stops making noise, I'm pretty sure the side stand is down. I am pretty concerned with those "gas station" or "garage" drops I've seen or heard of here......figure it's best to verify the side stand is down with a quick tap of the toe after the engine quits.

I like the idea of the hat over the ignition switch, but where do you put the Tyrolean hat when you're not parked?
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