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Old 06-23-2013, 09:30 AM   #61
WhicheverAnyWayCan OP
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First, the situation with my back.. thought I would provide some diagram of my back issue to give you better idea what I am dealing with..



A follow-up visit with doctor was better visit than the first one because doctor took the time to explain to me in details. He said that only left side is fracture but right side is not fracture so the slipping process will not happen unless I fracture my right side then that's where it could get bad. For now, no surgery is needed and continue with routine exercise that I did in PT as well as taking meloxicam every day. With good common sense and restricting myself from lifting heavy objects, I will be okay so all is good!

Many of parts are here with few more on the way.. Got a little carried away with the handlebar..



-A complete gasket set for engine
-Special tappet set that is designed to work with 86-03 bottom case and 04-06 heads due to few degree difference and this tappet will make it fit perfectly to ensure that none of water get inside bottom case of the engine. Very important for water crossing!
-Supposedly a special bracket but it seems to be an OEM bracket to hold engine to front part of frame
-Threebond 1194 liquid gasket for bottom part of cylinder jugs. Vibration resist and crackproof.
-Redline lubricate to lube pistons for installation.
-Moose racing handlebar
-Joker Machine 7/8" to 1" adapter (gray piece on handlebar)
-Konflict Motorsports package finally came! .58 fork springs, bushings, and seal sets.
-Non-pictured: Buell clutch cable to work with 7/8" handlebar.

Waiting to arrive is Chainsikle rear set bracket.

So let the work continue!
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:05 PM   #62
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That is good news on the back issues. In '99 I broke 2 of the Transverse process bones on L4/L5 on my right side and they healed up pretty well. Very few issues after they healed. They get sore after a long sits or too long of standing in one spot, but otherwise no issue. I am having ALOT of more trouble with my C5/6/7 and the 2 sets of fusions and refusions I have had there so I am confident you can heal up well and get better.

Bike sounds like it is coming along well also, that's great. Take your time.

My bike is getting very close to being rideable. It started the other day for the first time in 6 months and my new custom hand fabbed pipe sounded bitchen....a bit loud, but worth it I think.
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Old 08-01-2013, 01:35 PM   #63
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Hub & Wheel

What is the difference between cast aluminum and billet aluminum?? What is the real benefit??

- Cast aluminum rear hub (H-D OEM) is 4.5lbs. and found used one $60
- Billet aluminum rear hub (Woody's Wheel) is approx 6.5lbs.

The difference is $240 so I am not sure it is worth $240 difference for a measly 2lbs??

I also have steel hub from 70's that I got for free.. it is in good shape but just need cometic work.. It weight 6.5lbs and steel usually are stronger than aluminum unless I am wrong??


Just don't see the point in burning too much money replacing what I already have in hand?? The only reason I am struggling to make a decision is because I would like to ride BAM road on this harley and BAM is very hard on bike so I need something I can count on not to break on me in middle of nowhere in Russia. If I was just going to ride up the Dalton and down to Ushuaia then it is not really a big deal.. just that BAM is a big deal!

Also, I am hoping that KTM's hub (front) will hold together. I'm wondering what JimmyTheHog and JohnWesley use for front end? I'm gonna check their building thread and see if detail is already there.

In regard to rims, I've decided to go with Buchanan's own Sun rims so I am planning to get Buchanan's to build wheel set for me once I finalize with hub.
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:55 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
What is the difference between cast aluminum and billet aluminum?? What is the real benefit??

...

I also have steel hub from 70's that I got for free.. it is in good shape but just need cometic work.. It weight 6.5lbs and steel usually are stronger than aluminum unless I am wrong??
In my experience, cast aluminum is not as strong as billet. The steel will probably work best though.

I have a '73 Sporty that I'm making into a DS/Scrambler. It will take a while since I have a few other projects ahead of it, so I buy a few bits and pieces as I go, and watch all you other Sporty guys have all the fun.


.
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:14 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Dirt Road Cowboy View Post
In my experience, cast aluminum is not as strong as billet. The steel will probably work best though.

I have a '73 Sporty that I'm making into a DS/Scrambler. It will take a while since I have a few other projects ahead of it, so I buy a few bits and pieces as I go, and watch all you other Sporty guys have all the fun.


.
Cool! I have a friend that is contemplating on getting rid of a 1973 Sportster (engine and frame). If you need something in that area, let me know.
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:38 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
Cool! I have a friend that is contemplating on getting rid of a 1973 Sportster (engine and frame). If you need something in that area, let me know.
Well, it would be great to have another engine, and maybe an extra frame too, but I don't know if I could afford it right now.

Maybe, if the price was right...

.
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:03 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Dirt Road Cowboy View Post
Well, it would be great to have another engine, and maybe an extra frame too, but I don't know if I could afford it right now.

Maybe, if the price was right...
Of course! I am in same boat so I understand the feeling! I have someone interested in buying my Gilley's El Toro mech bull (as seen in Urban Cowboy) but I have to assume he is all talk until he show up with the money on Monday.

At least we know how to reach each other in case you finally have the money or he decide to get rid of it at a good price?? I think he was asking $1500 or something like that?? I dunno!?
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:09 PM   #68
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KTM vs H-D Bearing

Ok so after few inputs and googles on Billet Aluminum Hub vs Steel Hub, I decided to go with the steel hub below:



Took apart KTM and H-D hubs by removing bearing so I can start Powder Coating process. Notice one thing that was different between KTM and H-D bearing- what?? (KTM is on left and H-D on right)



KTM bearing is cover with rubber seal and H-D bearing is not? Should I be worried if I go through a lot of water crossing?? Back to research board and maybe drawing board??
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:49 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
Ok so after few inputs and googles on Billet Aluminum Hub vs Steel Hub, I decided to go with the steel hub below:



Took apart KTM and H-D hubs by removing bearing so I can start Powder Coating process. Notice one thing that was different between KTM and H-D bearing- what?? (KTM is on left and H-D on right)



KTM bearing is cover with rubber seal and H-D bearing is not? Should I be worried if I go through a lot of water crossing?? Back to research board and maybe drawing board??
Does the HD hub have outer races pressed in, or does the bearing run right on the hubshell? Might be worth going to either of the alloy hubs in the interest of long-term serviceability if it's the latter.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:15 PM   #70
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Does the HD hub have outer races pressed in, or does the bearing run right on the hubshell? Might be worth going to either of the alloy hubs in the interest of long-term serviceability if it's the latter.
In the image where you see KTM bearing on left and H-D bearing on right. On the right, you see that rubber seals above bearings? The seal cover the bearing and technically plug one side of the bearing but that still leave the inner exposed in some way since the seal is not 100% watertight. A very small portion of water can still get inside. One logical solution is to carry a grease with me and do a proper bearing maintenance after some excessive water crossing but that seems to be a lot of work? Doable, though!

Note: If you see in the image on left you see one piece broken off the bearing. I broke that seal off when I attempted to remove it from the hub and that is what it looked like on both side. (The one above it show that)

Since this hub is the 70's design.. it is possible modern bearing is different and sealed, but right now I can't say until I see it. Let's see!
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:34 PM   #71
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Could be a solution to my problem. Tomorrow, a trip to Harley-Davidson dealer is part of my day errand. Stay tuned!
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:30 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
What is the difference between cast aluminum and billet aluminum?? What is the real benefit??

- Cast aluminum rear hub (H-D OEM) is 4.5lbs. and found used one $60
- Billet aluminum rear hub (Woody's Wheel) is approx 6.5lbs.

I also have steel hub from 70's that I got for free.. it is in good shape but just need cometic work.. It weight 6.5lbs and steel usually are stronger than aluminum unless I am wrong??


Also, I am hoping that KTM's hub (front) will hold together. I'm wondering what JimmyTheHog and JohnWesley use for front end? I'm gonna check their building thread and see if detail is already there.
Im using a Talon billet aluminum front hub now, and a Storz billet rear hub (which is no longer available from Storz). They are both pretty stout. Before that, I had a KTM 525 front hub which I think is probably cast aluminum cast in the shape of the hub so minimal final machining is needed - lower cost for mass production.

Cast aluminum alloys (used for casting in near net shapes) that I know of are usually not as strong as 6061 or 7075 billet. Only concern I have with aluminum vs steel is fatigue life of aluminum. If the hub is stressed much lower than the fatigue limit, then it should last a long time. Steel is more ductile, but if there are marginal welds holding the spoke flanges on the hub (im assuming its welded), then that could be a concern - check the welds frequently.

I've found its difficult to really accurately predict the loads and stresses these bike will see since riding conditions and cycles vary so much. I do basic stress analysis with assumed loads and cycles, and see how they compare. Then go from there and see how it goes with plenty of offroad testing before committing to it. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:50 AM   #73
kellymac530
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WAWC,
Just my $0.02. I am not sure why people are thinking that the Harley tapered roller bearing seal are any less water proof that the "sealed" bearings on the KTM, But I personally disagree.

If you look at the seal on the HD tapered roller bearing, that is the same type of seal that is used on every enging and transmission input and output shaft and they last very long and seal very well. The smaller seal on the KTM bearing is no more sealed that the HD.

I peresonally have opened many "sealed bearings" and found water and debris intrusion and corrosion inside of those seals. I total confidence in the HD seal style. I would just repack them every few months or before any big planned ride and you will be more than fine.
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:51 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyTheHog View Post
Im using a Talon billet aluminum front hub now, and a Storz billet rear hub (which is no longer available from Storz). They are both pretty stout. Before that, I had a KTM 525 front hub which I think is probably cast aluminum cast in the shape of the hub so minimal final machining is needed - lower cost for mass production.

Cast aluminum alloys (used for casting in near net shapes) that I know of are usually not as strong as 6061 or 7075 billet. Only concern I have with aluminum vs steel is fatigue life of aluminum. If the hub is stressed much lower than the fatigue limit, then it should last a long time. Steel is more ductile, but if there are marginal welds holding the spoke flanges on the hub (im assuming its welded), then that could be a concern - check the welds frequently.

I've found its difficult to really accurately predict the loads and stresses these bike will see since riding conditions and cycles vary so much. I do basic stress analysis with assumed loads and cycles, and see how they compare. Then go from there and see how it goes with plenty of offroad testing before committing to it. Hope this helps.
Hi JTH, I have Talon hub on order now and will have the retailer ship it to Buchanan's. My question to you is if you have a 17mm axle or bigger? I am using WP 50mm Extreme fork and it is kinda weird.. 20mm on one side of axle and the rest is 17mm. See pic:



Don't know if it should be any concern but I think should be fine because some BMW riders have 50mm WPE on their bike and should be ok? This is the measurement I have using inch caliper measurement (if I have it correctly?) and here is the following: .825" on thick one and .665" in middle with other side .670" .665" and .670 is just right under 17mm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
WAWC,
Just my $0.02. I am not sure why people are thinking that the Harley tapered roller bearing seal are any less water proof that the "sealed" bearings on the KTM, But I personally disagree.

If you look at the seal on the HD tapered roller bearing, that is the same type of seal that is used on every enging and transmission input and output shaft and they last very long and seal very well. The smaller seal on the KTM bearing is no more sealed that the HD.

I peresonally have opened many "sealed bearings" and found water and debris intrusion and corrosion inside of those seals. I total confidence in the HD seal style. I would just repack them every few months or before any big planned ride and you will be more than fine.
Hmm thanks for throwing in your .02 cents.. I was thinking the same thing especially with the 4WD vehicles.. they are not sealed and work ok? Just wasn't sure about that on a dual sport so you can understand my concern in this.

Right now, it is PITA getting bearing races out! The thread on blind bearing puller (my dad's) is slightly damaged so I am gonna try to heat races with torch and see if it helps.

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Old 08-06-2013, 09:22 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
Right now, it is PITA getting bearing races out! The thread on blind bearing puller (my dad's) is slightly damaged so I am gonna try to heat races with torch and see if it helps.

Don't heat the race, heat the hub. I'd suggest you use a heat gun rather than a torch so you don't get it dangerously hot.

One thing worth considering- the tapered roller bearing from the HD wheel will take WAY more load than a ball bearing. Here's an idea for you to keep water out- drill a hole in the hub and pop a zerk grease fitting in there. Pump the hub full of grease. It will also make it VERY easy to add grease to your wheel bearings when necessary, and fresh grease fed from the inside of the hub will tend to push water and debris out of the bearings.
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