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Old 07-04-2013, 07:48 PM   #16516
redleger
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband View Post
Nice bike,congrats! Enjoy it!
That is a good looking well cared for physically bike. Enjoy it.

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:11 PM   #16517
mustangwagz
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i too have the stock metal tank from a STREET version 93 dr350s (kick only) its gotta big DINGE in it though. id part with it, its collecting dust and taking up space. lol

STill has stock decals on it too!
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:16 PM   #16518
Friedom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
i too have the stock metal tank from a STREET version 93 dr350s (kick only) its gotta big DINGE in it though. id part with it, its collecting dust and taking up space. lol

STill has stock decals on it too!
I'm getting the idea that everyone upgrades their tanks and has the ol' stockers laying around?

Where in western PA are you? I used to live in Eighty Four(where the lumber company comes from) and still have family there.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:04 PM   #16519
Thanantos
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Location: Michigan
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Thanks for the compliments on the new ride guys, but I have two more questions for tonight.

#1. I need a new gas cap for my 1999 S model. Are these standard or do I need a specific cap?

#2. Can anyone recommend a place to get a factory service manual for this little beast?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:40 PM   #16520
mwilliamshs
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 217
manual

Searching works. "DR350 manual" will lead you to:

The Great Greg Bender has a manual on his thisoldtractor site. Download it and include him in your bedtime prayers.

Gas cap should be keyed to your ignition. If you'd like to remainlremain lockable you can buy a cap and pay to have it rekeyed. You can buy a cap and ignition keyed alike. You can buy a cap and key and add a key to your ring. You can buy a non-locking cap too. Your call. Ebay is an easy place to find all this. Others sources are a google away.
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:27 AM   #16521
mustangwagz
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Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friedom View Post
I'm getting the idea that everyone upgrades their tanks and has the ol' stockers laying around?

Where in western PA are you? I used to live in Eighty Four(where the lumber company comes from) and still have family there.
Armstrong County, bout hour or so NE of pittsburgh. I been through "84" a time or 2.
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:26 AM   #16522
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
Does the DR faithful have a preferred clutch/brake lever replacement? I've searched and found EMGO, Motion Pro, MSR, Moose, blah blah etc. Forged, cast, snapback, with molded in grips, black, polished...long lists. I'm looking for a simple lever that fits correctly, feels okay, and that will neither break the bank nor the first time I dump the bike. I have sturdy handguards and ride cautiously but hope to only buy new levers once. I have broken (but usable) stockers for spares. Also I've seen some curled up ends, wassup wif dat?
I purchase the OEM Suzuki levers. They are not much more than the aftermarket units and I know they will fit and function perfectly. I've not had to replace the clutch perch nor the front brake master cylinder perch, only levers. With handguards, I've fallen a bunch of times with zero damage to the levers. All the same, I do carry a spare of each in my tool roll.

FYI, I purchase almost all my OEM parts from RockyMountainATVMC. I have also used other providers with great success. There is only one place I have used with which I will no longer conduct a simple business transaction: http://www.partzilla.com/

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:33 AM   #16523
Thanantos
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Location: Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
Searching works.
I'm aware, but thanks.
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:29 PM   #16524
duncanbojangles
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
Does the DR faithful have a preferred clutch/brake lever replacement? I've searched and found EMGO, Motion Pro, MSR, Moose, blah blah etc. Forged, cast, snapback, with molded in grips, black, polished...long lists. I'm looking for a simple lever that fits correctly, feels okay, and that will neither break the bank nor the first time I dump the bike. I have sturdy handguards and ride cautiously but hope to only buy new levers once. I have broken (but usable) stockers for spares. Also I've seen some curled up ends, wassup wif dat?
I ordered an MSR AOF Clutch Perch And Lever from Amazon recently and just put it on my bike a few days ago. It is significantly nicer than the stock clutch lever and perch.

The lever runs in a little bearing which gives me lots of fine control and makes my clutch feel buttery smooth (even though it's knackered all to heck and back). The perch clamps down on a plastic ring that fits around your bars. I'm not sure if this is to allow the same perch fit on oversized bars (1 1/8") or if it allows the perch to rotate around the bar instead of snapping the lever when your bike decides to take a dirt nap.

The adjustment knob on the MSR clutch is big and easily worked with gloves on. Also, the knob locks in place by itself, so you don't have to loosen the locking ring, turn the darn barrel adjuster, and tighten the locking ring to adjust your cable play. All you do is turn the adjusting knob, and *click*, it stays where you left it.

There's also a little screw that seems to adjust some other facet of clutch lever operation, but I'm not sure what it's for. I guess it could be used to prevent the lever from opening all the way, in case you have short fingers and can't stretch 'em far enough to grab the lever.

I must say, for the price ($25) I couldn't be happier with this product. The smoothness of the lever is what will make me buy this product again for my next bike, it's just that nice. It is well made and uses standard Honda CR style levers, so all sorts of replacements (including customizable) levers exist on the marketplace. The only downside is that this clutch perch does not include a threaded hole to mount your side view mirrors in. You'll have to either live without, get a standalone mirror&perch, or run bar-end mirrors.
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Old 07-05-2013, 03:04 PM   #16525
mwilliamshs
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Arkansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanbojangles View Post
I ordered an MSR AOF Clutch Perch And Lever from Amazon recently and just put it on my bike a few days ago. It is significantly nicer than the stock clutch lever and perch.

The lever runs in a little bearing which gives me lots of fine control and makes my clutch feel buttery smooth (even though it's knackered all to heck and back). The perch clamps down on a plastic ring that fits around your bars. I'm not sure if this is to allow the same perch fit on oversized bars (1 1/8") or if it allows the perch to rotate around the bar instead of snapping the lever when your bike decides to take a dirt nap.

The adjustment knob on the MSR clutch is big and easily worked with gloves on. Also, the knob locks in place by itself, so you don't have to loosen the locking ring, turn the darn barrel adjuster, and tighten the locking ring to adjust your cable play. All you do is turn the adjusting knob, and *click*, it stays where you left it.
Pics?
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:34 PM   #16526
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
Oddometer: 1,194
Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanbojangles View Post
I ordered an MSR AOF Clutch Perch And Lever from Amazon recently and just put it on my bike a few days ago. It is significantly nicer than the stock clutch lever and perch.

The lever runs in a little bearing which gives me lots of fine control and makes my clutch feel buttery smooth (even though it's knackered all to heck and back). The perch clamps down on a plastic ring that fits around your bars. I'm not sure if this is to allow the same perch fit on oversized bars (1 1/8") or if it allows the perch to rotate around the bar instead of snapping the lever when your bike decides to take a dirt nap.

The adjustment knob on the MSR clutch is big and easily worked with gloves on. Also, the knob locks in place by itself, so you don't have to loosen the locking ring, turn the darn barrel adjuster, and tighten the locking ring to adjust your cable play. All you do is turn the adjusting knob, and *click*, it stays where you left it.

There's also a little screw that seems to adjust some other facet of clutch lever operation, but I'm not sure what it's for. I guess it could be used to prevent the lever from opening all the way, in case you have short fingers and can't stretch 'em far enough to grab the lever.

I must say, for the price ($25) I couldn't be happier with this product. The smoothness of the lever is what will make me buy this product again for my next bike, it's just that nice. It is well made and uses standard Honda CR style levers, so all sorts of replacements (including customizable) levers exist on the marketplace. The only downside is that this clutch perch does not include a threaded hole to mount your side view mirrors in. You'll have to either live without, get a standalone mirror&perch, or run bar-end mirrors.
Will it fit behind handguards? If so, I'll buy it even if I don't need it. Sounds like a good product.
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:36 PM   #16527
CurbTiger
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Great North West
Oddometer: 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
Does the DR faithful have a preferred clutch/brake lever replacement? I've searched and found EMGO, Motion Pro, MSR, Moose, blah blah etc. Forged, cast, snapback, with molded in grips, black, polished...long lists. I'm looking for a simple lever that fits correctly, feels okay, and that will neither break the bank nor the first time I dump the bike. I have sturdy handguards and ride cautiously but hope to only buy new levers once. I have broken (but usable) stockers for spares. Also I've seen some curled up ends, wassup wif dat?

These are the Western Power Sports Part#'s I used:
70-0401 clutch lever
70-0408 brake lever

I have a '95 350SE.

NE
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:46 AM   #16528
scharfg
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Location: Prince George (icky) BC Canada
Oddometer: 170
Kenda K270 4.5-18 versus 4.6-18?

Hi newb here.

I did a whack of searching on the internet with no luck so I' m sending this question to you experts.

I have a '96 DR Electric and I bought the bike with a K270 4.5-18. I just replaced it with a 4.6-18 and I was amazed at how much narrower it is than the 4.5 (looks like a bicycle tire in comparison and the knobbies are smaller so less rubber on the road).

What was the stock tire size (in imperial) on my bike and what changes will occur by using the 4.6 versus the 4.5? Should I worry that the 4.6 only has 4 plies versus the 4.5's 6 (I do mostly fire/logging road riding with some pavement).

Thanks folks for helping this newb out.
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:50 AM   #16529
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 980
Quote:
Originally Posted by scharfg View Post
Hi newb here.

I did a whack of searching on the internet with no luck so I' m sending this question to you experts.

I have a '96 DR Electric and I bought the bike with a K270 4.5-18. I just replaced it with a 4.6-18 and I was amazed at how much narrower it is than the 4.5 (looks like a bicycle tire in comparison and the knobbies are smaller so less rubber on the road).

What was the stock tire size (in imperial) on my bike and what changes will occur by using the 4.6 versus the 4.5? Should I worry that the 4.6 only has 4 plies versus the 4.5's 6 (I do mostly fire/logging road riding with some pavement).

Thanks folks for helping this newb out.
The OEM rear tire was 110/100x18. 110mm is 4.33" so your 4.5 was pretty close. Tire manufacturers vary a bit in the way they size their products so its no surprise that one manufacturer's 4.6 appears smaller than another's 4.5. That difference alone will not be noticeable although other factors (cross-section shape, tread design, rubber compound) might be. FWIW, I run 120/80 or 120/90 on the rear of mine.

In general wider tires look cool but don't necessarily provide more traction (again tread design and compound is probably more important) and they resist turning more than narrow ones.
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Old 07-06-2013, 04:44 AM   #16530
shank
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Lockyer Valley Qld Australia
Oddometer: 781
91 DR 350 Pumper Carb conversion.

OK!! I can’t stop procrastinating, So how much of a difference will the Pumper carb conversion really make??

Help me make the decision, maybe a comparison, like....felt like going from a 250 to 350 or from the 350 to a drz400 or at least 1/2 that step!
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