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Old 07-06-2013, 10:59 AM   #16
barnyard
Verbal tactician
 
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: central Mn
Oddometer: 10,133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Daddy View Post
You can usually call a dealer and they can tell you the model year.
Any dealer should be able to tell you. It is a letter code, I used to have it, but threw it away.
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:19 PM   #17
r1150r
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Oddometer: 948
http://www.leeroysramblings.com/omc_model_code.htm
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Old 07-06-2013, 08:09 PM   #18
mwood7800
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Joined: Feb 2011
Oddometer: 484
If the impeller is that old it's shit. It will work great till you get high rpm. No way it will work like it is supposed to. It will piss a stream all day till u need it. Anyone who doesn't replace their impeller at least every 3 years, 2 is a stretch, rode the short bus.

mwood7800 screwed with this post 07-06-2013 at 08:15 PM
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:23 AM   #19
henrymartin OP
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: South of the Great North Woods
Oddometer: 3,059
Motor is 1987.

I need to find a dealer so I can buy some lower unit oil and a couple other things.
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #20
concours
WFO for 41 years
 
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Kensington, NH USA
Oddometer: 4,932
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrymartin View Post
Motor is 1987.

I need to find a dealer so I can buy some lower unit oil and a couple other things.
WallyWorld (or NAPA, or ...) has lubrimatic lube for that, as good as any. Just don't get the stuff marked "for electric shift" lower units. Procedure to refill after draining is pump it in from the bottom, till it comes out the level plug, then plug that, remove the pump and plug the drain.
If the oil is milky looking, water intrusion past the shaft seals is indicated. Usually it's the prop shaft, fishing line wrapped around the prop can eat up the seal, or worn bearings, or just old age.
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