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Old 07-08-2013, 05:05 AM   #16
Storm Shadow OP
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well the embarrassment of putting the bike on a trailer and taking it an hour away to a bike mechanic, to fix what you did :-(

i dont think i will get out of this for under 1000 bucks
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:42 AM   #17
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Not trying to highjack the thread but on autos I always use anti-seize in case I have to pull it apart later and have used it on some bikes. Is that a bad idea on bikes because of the vibrations?
The last place I'd use Loctite is on an exhaust stud! Anti-seize yes.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:42 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Storm Shadow View Post
well the embarrassment of putting the bike on a trailer and taking it an hour away to a bike mechanic, to fix what you did :-(

i dont think i will get out of this for under 1000 bucks
Take it to a good machine shop instead. They're used to performing small miracles to save ass. They'll have a tap and get you fixed right up.

Where are you?
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:43 AM   #19
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The last place I'd use Loctite is on an exhaust stud! Anti-seize yes.
+1, of course.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:53 AM   #20
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[QUOTE=Benesesso;21815286]Take it to a good machine shop instead. They're used to performing small miracles to save ass. They'll have a tap and get you fixed right up.

Where are you?

the new england table lands. asking around im taking it to inverell motorcycles... somebody called turbo tuner at the bike shop there is apparently knowledgeable on these things...

maybe it will be a case of retaping the exhaust stud. and everything will be fine.

but i think if i put the original exhaust back on with its silly catalytic converter, with the stain tunes slip on that is. it wont be touched again..
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:13 PM   #21
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pitty its behind the shock and frame, behind here somewhere.. somebody who has a metal shoulder, no nerves or feeling, and very little muscle in my left arm cant do.

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Old 07-12-2013, 11:15 PM   #22
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:08 PM   #23
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Looks like the other one was leaking even more than that one.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:07 PM   #24
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Looks like the other one was leaking even more than that one.
sure does, that one was worse as i could turn it around, well when i fix it, ill have the original extractors that fit proper, with loctight medium strength on it.. and new bolts and studs.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:33 AM   #25
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Studs are usually an interference fit in the head and thus difficult to install.

Never use a tap to clean threads,there are tools for that job.

I bet if you remove the subframe it will be easier access. And far cheaper than the shop is going to be.

Next time you remove an exhaust nut try dosing it with a good penterating oil for a day or so beforehand. Then the stud will remain where it belongs. I use BG In Force. When reinstalling I always use proper torque spec (corrected for a lubed fastener and typically inch-pounds) on a clean stud coated with anti-seize. Keeps over-tightening from bending the exhaust flange in the first place which is typically the reason for a leak.
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:01 PM   #26
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well, my arms was feeling pretty good today and my exhaust studs arrived. so i cleared the thread out with compressed air and then some rp7, double nutted the stud, and it gave me a bit of resistance at first, but then went in pretty smoothly, was being very gentle with it.

so the stud is back in now, just trying to find the torque valuse for it, ive got 12n, for the nut, but i cant find the stud in the manual...
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:59 AM   #27
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I don't think you need to torque the stud. Run it in until it stops and your done.
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Old 07-24-2013, 12:07 PM   #28
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I don't think you need to torque the stud. Run it in until it stops and your done.
+1 -- there willlikely NOT be a torque value for the stud -- as stated above, it is most likely an interference fit (as in the threads in the head and on the stud not QUITE matching, to prevent the stud from walking out of the head.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:02 PM   #29
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+1 -- there willlikely NOT be a torque value for the stud -- as stated above, it is most likely an interference fit (as in the threads in the head and on the stud not QUITE matching, to prevent the stud from walking out of the head.
i supose it should of stayed in, if it had not been for the rod bending, and the nut on the end freezing on it, when undoing...
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:25 AM   #30
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well the bikes pretty much back together now. i did pop my shoulder out of its socket while doing the exhaust, u would think taking a bolt out of the pannier bracket, which goes through the exhaust loop, then into the frame would stay fairly still since its attached at a few other points. but nope, had to remove the topbox and pannier brackets, to put the bolt back in, and when your shifting and lifting to line things up, pop, out goes the shoulder. god it hurts so much.

got it all back together, lot of smoke coming off the cat, when you stop the motor still comes out the exhaust maybe a spider nest or something in it contaminating it or something. who knows. i took it off when i got the bike 2 years ago, and put the race headers on, so its just been sitting there...

but rode around teh back yard this arvo. seems to run fine, little ruff from sitting for the past 5 months,

only thing left is to find a bolt to put through the top fo the cat into a bracket, the race headers didnt have this. and put the side fairings back on.
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