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Old 07-13-2013, 08:22 PM   #46
ricard OP
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jimmex,
Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately I missed El Sotano this time. The pictures I saw look amazing.
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:24 PM   #47
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chilango13,
I'll be here a couple of more weeks, I guess, unless I run out of money (shorter) or break down (longer).
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:56 PM   #48
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Saturday July 13th
Xilitla to Zacatlan - Day of the 10,000 topes.
The topes between Xilitla and Zacatlan are like the Bodhisattvas, too numerous to count.

Highway 105 south of Huejutla De Reys is spectacular. The road is cut into the steep jagged mountains. It rises into the mist of a dense rain forest. Giant ferns hang from the rock cliffs alongside the road. The mountains, and the vertical rock faces shrouded in cloud, look like something from an acient Chinese landscape painting.

I headed south east from Zacualtipan towards Zacatlan on secondary roads. The weather turned from mist to rain as the road turned from mostly paved to mostly potholes to dirt. By the time I arrived at Zacatlan it was pouring and the street into town was more like a fast shallow river. Found the Hotel San Pedro, a 7 by 9 foot room, a block from the cathedral and fast wifi. Feels like a palace after 9 hours of travel.




ricard screwed with this post 07-14-2013 at 07:53 PM
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:52 PM   #49
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July 14th, Zacatlan to Orizaba

Sunday morning in Zacatlan was bright and sunny after a night of rain. I started the week off with morning mass in the cathedral. Latin prayers, the smell of incense, and cold hard mexican tiles beneath your knees.

The sky stayed blue for about half the day, then it absolutly poured. I should have spent three days rather than one traveling from Zacatlan to Orizaba. There are so many great towns, churches, town sqares, and on Sunday there are fairs and markets every few miles. I particularily liked Zacapoaxtla with its' wood and tile roofs overhanging the narrow street. And Zacatepec, a bigger town, with its' banners and flags blowing in the wind of the comming storm.


Sunday morning in Zacatlan


Morning oil for the moto after it spent another night on a tile floor.


A typical town along the way


Orizaba
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:17 PM   #50
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July 15th, Orizaba to Oaxaca

In Orizaba they like to mix their beer with sarsaparilla.

Orizaba has it's own cool prefab building, the Palacio de Hierro. Fabricated in Belgium and shipped to Mexico.







I decided to take the fast new "quota" road to Oaxaca. I was off to a late start and the beautiful old "libre" road would get me there after dark. So that was my obvious mistake, trying to save time.

The quota "autopista" out of Orizaba ia actually a really great riding road. It climbs and twists up the steep mountain into the clouds. It's fast with sharp banking turns. And trucks that have bad brakes. One didn't quite make a turn and they shut down the road while they worked to remove it.



The next obstruction greeted me at the base of the mountain where the police had shut down the road completely and indefinitely.



I managed to get around the jam and on to the "libre" headed for Oaxaca. Made it to town in time for diner on the Zocalo at Bar Del Jardin, sheltered from the pouring rain.

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Old 07-16-2013, 07:43 PM   #51
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July 16th, Oaxaca

I moved from the ordinary and noisy Hotel Paris, to the more beautiful and less expensive Hotel Principal. From the Hotel Principal I can hear the church bells and fireworks, from the Hotel Paris only buses and trucks.







Another night on a shiny tile floor for the moto.



I spent the day aimless in Oaxaca.





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Old 07-16-2013, 09:45 PM   #52
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Beautiful country! Your doing it right. Thanks and looking for more!
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:48 AM   #53
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Looks like some fantastic towns, hotels and restaurants. Enjoying your report.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:05 PM   #54
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Thanks for sharing

Beautiful pictures and nice RR
Thanks for sharing, ride safe and keep the RR coming
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:18 PM   #55
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July 17th

Aimless in Oaxaca, day 2

Sleep late, then good coffee, then the Museo Rufino Tamayo. One of my favorite places.



Wandering near the cathedral.



Lots of these great old rod-brake bicycles in Mexico.



And a short sleep in the middle of the day.



Wednesday in Oaxaca, any day in Oaxaca, Oaxaca will give something. A brass band parade, led by the usual, crazy, skyrocket throwing, pyromaniac. Paper shapes, dancers, free shots of mezcal poured out to any one along the way. I could hear them coming through the city for an hour before they arrived in the Zocalo. The exploding sky rockets competing with the claps of thunder. It poured rain briefly before they came round the corner, but then they played so loud they kept the rain up in the sky.









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Old 07-19-2013, 05:00 PM   #56
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July 18th, Thursday

Oaxaca to Puerto Angel

Rode the 175 straight south from Oaxaca. Passing through Ocotlan was slow going due to the goat auction. There were some fine looking goats.

The road winds up and up. I stopped a couple of times before getting into the rain, and the rain filled potholes, and the mud.











Coming down the mountain the rain cleared, sandy patches appeared on the road, it got hot and muggy, and I started to smell fish. I arrived in Puerto Angel, and after a bit of wandering around lost I checked into the Hotel La Cabana.


View from the hotel


The beach

As I enjoyed diner on the sand I watched fishermen catching a meal for tomorrow. Chickens searched for scraps in the sand beneath the tables. The chickens whose eggs I will be eating for tomorrow's breakfast.



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Old 07-19-2013, 07:59 PM   #57
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July 19th, Friday

Puerto Angel to Tehuantepec

The day began with an early breakfast on the beach. Big mug of real, not instant, coffee and very fresh eggs. It's hard to leave but Chiapas is calling.





The weather is getting hotter, the lizards are getting bigger, and there are snakes on the road. It's also getting windy as I near the Istmo De Tehuantepec.



Rolled into Tehuantepec and found the Zocalo and a hotel quickly. The Hotel Donaji Del Istmo.



Hotel Donaji, pronounced "Donashi", named after a Zapotec princess decapitated by the Mixtecs. The room key fob is a big piece of wood with a drawing of her severed head on it.

Popular place with the Federales, for some reason, so the parking is probably secure.



Spent the late afternoon and evening wandering around, watching the Zocalo come alive and studying the local variety of moto-taxi.







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Old 07-19-2013, 09:55 PM   #58
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Great pictures!

I think I know what ride I'm taking next year!! Awesome report. Keep it coming.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:07 PM   #59
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glad your starter got fixed .. no valeo for me
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:50 PM   #60
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Awesome!

What a great RR with tons of unique photos! Thanks much for the great entertainment. I'll be going back and re-reading the whole thing again soon!


Gary "Oldone"

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Grampa’s National Monument Ride
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