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Old 07-17-2013, 09:08 PM   #7066
inuvik
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
Just got the SU rack in the mail. Yep...nothing fits. Every bolt hole is off by a lot. I don't know how easy it'll be to bend it. This sucker is a hulk. Way over kill for the little DR.

Thinking if I should just return it.
I have the cycleracks rack. Extremely heavy duty and bolts up nicely.
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2005 DR200SE: Ricochet skidplate, Spitfire S-06 Windshield, Suzuki Handguards, Tusk handlebar risers, Cycleracks rear rack, Chase-Harper B-Alaska Bag, DG Performance Exhaust, Tutoro Chain Oiler, Garmin Etrek GPS.
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:39 AM   #7067
73Mustang
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Originally Posted by inuvik View Post
I have the cycleracks rack. Extremely heavy duty and bolts up nicely.
I see the cycleracks are mounted very low on the frame.

Does your boot/shoe/leg contact the rack while riding?
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:33 PM   #7068
inuvik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
I see the cycleracks are mounted very low on the frame.

Does your boot/shoe/leg contact the rack while riding?
After riding home tonight I realized that my boot does contact the rack. In fact I noticed that I apply pressure against it as a rest of sorts. It feels pretty good with no issues while riding including off road. It's a super heavy duty rack that is rated for well over 100 lbs. I put a 150 lb rock on the rack to move it with no damage. I had a cycleracks on my xt225 also and it was great too (actually I still have the rack in my garage).
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inuvik screwed with this post 07-18-2013 at 11:48 PM
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:38 AM   #7069
suseuser
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Location: Nampa Idaho
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Factory Tires

I was wondering why the factory tires have such a bad reputation? They seem to be adequate both on and off road. I would say they lean more towards on the road. They also seem to do fine in mildly loose gravel, grass, and semi-loose pack soil at reasonable speeds (say around 40 mph). I haven't tried really soft mud yet. I never once felt the bike to be hard to control in any of those conditions. Am I missing something? I only have 2000 miles on them. So, maybe they don't age well.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:25 AM   #7070
whipit1k
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Joined: Jun 2005
Location: shelby nc
Oddometer: 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by AleXtz View Post
Finally my buddy/mechanic has done some service to my 33K miles DR. What was done:

-Instead of putting yamaha bond on the valve cover junction we have made a gasket out of a special kind of carboard, and a got as well a gasket for the crankcase cover.

-replaced #16 & #17 from the link above

-got valve adjustment

-installed a new oem gas petcock

-the gas tank had a small crack right in the area where you screw it to the bike's frame. Got it welded, no paint was messed!! a great job done there too.

- With little help of the buddies from the russian djebel forum located this other big source of leaking. Its a gap developed in the sensor. Some of them agreed to replace #33, #34 and #35 from this website http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model...QOW0DvRUfEMvTQ





My mechanic just filled this gap with the kind of carboard for making gaskets to create pressure and push back




Observations:

The previous owner splatted all over yamaha bond, but the shit was still fresh! Thats why the oil inside was easily spitted through. My mechanic told me that when applying bond, it has dry a little bit, then tight all screws around.

No more gas smell in my parking, no more drippings all over. Now the engine runs smooth, sounds better when driving. Can fill that phat ass tank now.

So now its just enjoying Thanks a lot guys from advrider and djebel-club.ru ...

Well almost... now the rear shock squeaks. That noise is driving me nuckin futs... How bad it could be?

-Alejandro
it is a very bad idea to make a rocker box (valve cover) gasket and put it in where it does not belong. Take it out NOW and re assemble with liquid gasket. The head and rocker box are machined in such a way that, when torqued down, they provide the camshaft with the proper clearance. with extra clearance, the cam can wobble up and down, oil pressure in the cam journals will be reduced, and the head will eventually be ruined
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:30 AM   #7071
JayGoldstein
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[QUOTE=suseuser;21903256]I was wondering why the factory tires have such a bad reputation? /QUOTE]

Almost all of my riding is on pavement and gravel roads (no sand, grass, or rocky inclines). I replaced the OE tires, not because they were bad, but because I wanted tires with a tread that is biased towards on-road riding. I picked the Kenda K761, which is rated as 80/20 on-road/off-road.

Regardless of tread pattern, a benefit of switching to a larger front tire (in my case, a 90/90-21) is the elimination of speedometer error.
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2009 DR200SE: ManRacks rack, ScreensForBikes windshield, Wolfman tail bag, 16T sprocket, Kenda K761 tires, Moose Racing CR-HI handlebar, Renthal MX grips, Polisport fender.


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Old 07-19-2013, 10:49 AM   #7072
bross
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Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suseuser View Post
I was wondering why the factory tires have such a bad reputation? They seem to be adequate both on and off road. I would say they lean more towards on the road. They also seem to do fine in mildly loose gravel, grass, and semi-loose pack soil at reasonable speeds (say around 40 mph). I haven't tried really soft mud yet. I never once felt the bike to be hard to control in any of those conditions. Am I missing something? I only have 2000 miles on them. So, maybe they don't age well.
The factory tires on the DR200 DON'T have a bad reputation, it's the factory tires on the DR650 that are considered "DeathWings" and it's a well deserved reputation.

DR200 tire TW19/18


DR650 tire TW41/42 aka "DeathWing"


Bridgestone have about 100 different versions of TrailWings. TrailWings

My wife loved her TrailWings on her DR200. I couldn't find any when she needed tires so installed a pair of IRC GP-1s and they are pretty much the same as the TrailWing TW19s.

IRC GP-1


I know it's always the rider not the bike or the tires, BUT here's my DR650 after a simple front end wash on an easy two track trail with a good surface.



I now have case savers installed and got rid of the "DeathWings" (TW41s) before I rode the bike again. That was over 3 years ago and I've been on way knarlier terrain riding way faster and haven't lost the front end since.

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Old 07-19-2013, 12:25 PM   #7073
suseuser
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Location: Nampa Idaho
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Thumb

I'm the second owner of this DR and it came with Trail wings on the front and a IRC GP-1 on the back. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
When I wear these tires out I might look at a set of the Kenda K761. Looks like they are more along the lines of my style of riding. I'm not quite sure why the original owner put on the IRC rear tire. I can't imagine the factory tire was done at under 2000 miles.

At first I purchased the DR200 for the purpose of having a bike to beat around on when camping. But, I've ridden it every day to work since I bought it. I only have a few miles to ride to work with a short stretch of 45 mph road. I have to say for this type of riding the DR is a shining star. I do think the Trailwings are a little noisy on the pavement. And I have a little bit of wobble in the front end at higher speeds. I'm not sure if that's the tire or another issue. There are no wheel weights on the front or back tire so I assume the factory isn't real concerned about balancing the tire. I may take the tires off and balance them just for the heck of it. Anyway, after over 2000 miles the front tire still looks good after 2000 miles. Assuming it's the original tires.

Edit: I forgot to mention the IRC tire is a 4.10-18 and not the 100/90-18 m/c that is specified for the DR200. I'm not a tire guy, so I don't know if that makes a difference.
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suseuser screwed with this post 07-19-2013 at 12:34 PM
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:08 PM   #7074
Andyinhilo
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suseuser View Post
I'm the second owner of this DR and it came with Trail wings on the front and a IRC GP-1 on the back. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
When I wear these tires out I might look at a set of the Kenda K761. Looks like they are more along the lines of my style of riding. I'm not quite sure why the original owner put on the IRC rear tire. I can't imagine the factory tire was done at under 2000 miles.

At first I purchased the DR200 for the purpose of having a bike to beat around on when camping. But, I've ridden it every day to work since I bought it. I only have a few miles to ride to work with a short stretch of 45 mph road. I have to say for this type of riding the DR is a shining star. I do think the Trailwings are a little noisy on the pavement. And I have a little bit of wobble in the front end at higher speeds. I'm not sure if that's the tire or another issue. There are no wheel weights on the front or back tire so I assume the factory isn't real concerned about balancing the tire. I may take the tires off and balance them just for the heck of it. Anyway, after over 2000 miles the front tire still looks good after 2000 miles. Assuming it's the original tires.

Edit: I forgot to mention the IRC tire is a 4.10-18 and not the 100/90-18 m/c that is specified for the DR200. I'm not a tire guy, so I don't know if that makes a difference.
4.10-18 is roughly the same as a 100/90-18. Inch vs. metric measurements. Have a look at the IRC GP-110. I was pleased with those on my 200.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:11 PM   #7075
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whipit1k View Post
it is a very bad idea to make a rocker box (valve cover) gasket and put it in where it does not belong. Take it out NOW and re assemble with liquid gasket. The head and rocker box are machined in such a way that, when torqued down, they provide the camshaft with the proper clearance. with extra clearance, the cam can wobble up and down, oil pressure in the cam journals will be reduced, and the head will eventually be ruined
100+!

It won't be ruined eventually, it will happen soon. It will also probably take out the cam and rocker arms, too.
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"The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil, and while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles."J. Cooper
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:49 PM   #7076
suseuser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
4.10-18 is roughly the same as a 100/90-18. Inch vs. metric measurements. Have a look at the IRC GP-110. I was pleased with those on my 200.
Thanks for the info. I like the looks of the GP-110 better than the GP-1. But there is a huge difference in price ($111.00 vs $60). I hate to start a tire thread. It's akin to starting an oil thread. But it always amazes me how you can buy a set of tires for $100 from one company. And pay $120 each for tires from another manufacturer. Is there really that wide a gap in tire technology or quality? There always seems to be a middle ground there somewhere. Don't get me wrong: Tires are the last place I want to cut costs. But at the same time, I can't see just throwing money out the window for no particular reason.
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:06 PM   #7077
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suseuser View Post
Thanks for the info. I like the looks of the GP-110 better than the GP-1. But there is a huge difference in price ($111.00 vs $60). I hate to start a tire thread. It's akin to starting an oil thread. But it always amazes me how you can buy a set of tires for $100 from one company. And pay $120 each for tires from another manufacturer. Is there really that wide a gap in tire technology or quality? There always seems to be a middle ground there somewhere. Don't get me wrong: Tires are the last place I want to cut costs. But at the same time, I can't see just throwing money out the window for no particular reason.
Look at a Shinko 700 or 705 if you're mostly on the street.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:07 PM   #7078
northsouth15
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honestly, for street, I'd stick with the OEM tires

why?

1.) they're pretty good - I did a supermoto track day on asphalt, and they held pretty good traction while pushing it hard!







2.) they're cheap

3.) the front - I don't know ANY manufacturer that makes a 70 width front. There are many that make a 80 width front, and it will fit, but personally I don't like squeezing a wider tire on a narrow rim. It pudges the tire outwards, and it doesn't have the "V" shape anymore that allows it to "fall" into turns. It might be possible to squeeze an 80 width front that retains that front "V" shape, but I have yet to try one.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:26 PM   #7079
Andyinhilo
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Originally Posted by bross View Post
Look at a Shinko 700 or 705 if you're mostly on the street.
That is a good recommendation. When I got my 200, it had GP-110s on it so I went ahead and replaced the worn out rear, with the same. It was what was in stock, and worked well.

Tires are difficult here, unless you get them from the dealer, most companies won't ship tires to Hawaii, and if they do it is quite spendy.
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:19 PM   #7080
Wallrat
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Originally Posted by suseuser View Post
I was wondering why the factory tires have such a bad reputation? They seem to be adequate both on and off road. I would say they lean more towards on the road. They also seem to do fine in mildly loose gravel, grass, and semi-loose pack soil at reasonable speeds (say around 40 mph). I haven't tried really soft mud yet. I never once felt the bike to be hard to control in any of those conditions. Am I missing something? I only have 2000 miles on them. So, maybe they don't age well.

They're not bad tires if you mostly ride road and only hit very easy offroad. For anything on dirt that actually requires some traction, they're really bad - but then most street oriented dual sport tires are. Just as a more aggressive offroad tire doesn't perform well on road, the stock tires don't perform well on dirt. I ride dual sports so that I can have a fully capable dirt exploring machine that can also hop on the road when needed. For me, I use the most aggressive DOT legal tires I can find. Other people ride a dual sport so that they can cruise around on the road, but not have to turn around if the pavement ends.

If they work for you on the types of terrain you ride, then stick with them.
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