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Old 07-19-2013, 06:36 AM   #3136
windowto
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: NJ
Oddometer: 730
Quote:
Originally Posted by nylon2000 View Post
Thanks guys.


Electrical - will check the side stand switch first, that side took a hard fall, and the side stand extender (hockey puck) fell off around the same time, so it might be the cause.

Fuel - i know cleaning the tank makes sense, but will siphoning the fuel out really clean it? Or do i have to remove and wash the tank with good gas? That sounds awfully complicated!

I need to wait here for the new clutch, so have time to do these things over the next few days.
Nylon,

Don't forget the fuel filter. There is no way around it. It's under the seat, forward left. As for the tank, it could hold water. Usually the fuel pickup lines do not pickup fuel right from the bottom to prevent sucking contaminants. But when you have too much... Well, you know what happens then. Although a bad maintenance practice, you might want to get your bike upside down and remove the filler cap. Opening the cap will not do because you have that neck in there. You will have to remove the whole assembly. The fuel and water will not drain completely. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE BATTERY FIRST! I don't know what it will do to other systems like cooling etc. You are on your own here and, I am sure, I will get yelled at for even suggesting it . But, I figured you had your bike nearly upside down already;). While you have the battery out and waiting for parts, you might want to replace it with the Mottobatt MB12U. It will serve you well. Hope you are not on the original POS. There is no way around removing and cleaning the filter. Of course, you can just replace it:), it's only $54.

Good luck!

windowto screwed with this post 07-19-2013 at 06:41 AM
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:44 AM   #3137
WayneC1
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The fuel filter is the same "patented" combined filter/regulator used on all the 650GS's it is expensive at $US151, pity they did not update the newer models with the one from the 650X, it is mounted in the tank and simplifies the fuel lines
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:45 AM   #3138
windowto
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Location: NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdennan View Post

I had my side panel off the other day to check the coolant and it was at the minimum mark so I topped it off with Engine Ice. I had the same thought.
Where is the bleed screw?
I gotta get off my bike and take a picture sometime.
KD,

The bleed screw is on the right side just above the coolant hose and temp sensor. Remember, you need a steady stream, no bubbles or burps. And you are correct, the maintenance manual calls for "kneading" the radiator hose to get the bubbles out.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:47 AM   #3139
windowto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
The fuel filter is the same "patented" combined filter/regulator used on all the 650GS's it is expensive at $US151, pity they did not update the newer models with the one from the 650X, it is mounted in the tank and simplifies the fuel lines

01 16 13 2 345 095 ACTIVATED CHARCOAL FILTER0.66 1 $54.28
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:50 AM   #3140
WayneC1
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That is only the filter to vent the tank to the atmosphere and is only fitted to US models, it is not the fuel filter
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:12 AM   #3141
windowto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
That is only the filter to vent the tank to the atmosphere and is only fitted to US models, it is not the fuel filter
OK then, I stand corrected. As we say in aviation: "Disregard last transmission" . My advice was based on my general and, probably outdated, experience. When it comes to bike specific, I would definitely defer to you (WayneC1) seems you've been around this bike for ever. I see your name often on the Dakar thread. All this emissions stuff can be quite confusing.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:22 AM   #3142
WayneC1
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Ah, I make no claims to fame, we always have something new to learn every day and I would like a $ for every time I have been wrong

The important thing is to share around what we each learn so the knowledge bank increases for all
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:27 AM   #3143
alskee750
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Thanks guys for the + feedback..

Windowto: Good catch on bleeding the system of air. Since I was trail side and only had water which was a sweltering hot ass hike to acquire. I couldn't even remember what to do and didn't have the manual on hand either. But your right it makes sense and will try that once I get her back home. Poor girl is in transit via freight, if I had the time I'll ride her butt back home.

Swamp: You lucky dog! I had a very cool shot/Pic with him while fueling up in Lake City, CO. He gave me some updated information regarding Utah's track which came very handy. Utah was like a maze and I had trouble finding my track for a while until I remember what Sam Told me. I went back and POW, everything worked out great and the ride was epic.

Coloradodirtrider: You my friend have a awesome state to ride in! Anywhere you turn you can find a trail in a drop of a dime. I ventured off a few times and found myself on some tight single track, etc. Alot of work getting her out but always in good fun.



Rear Sprocket: Looks like I got around 11,500 or close to 12000. In Oklahoma I was hitting the dirt pretty quick once you entered zen mode. Sliding into corners, whipping the throttle while existing and trying to keep the ass in check! I went w/ JT steel sprocket, easy change over. Ordered it through Sean in Buena Vista, CO.

Tires: I did a total of 3,300 miles. 1800 miles directly to Oklahoma, and that was using Kenda big blocks. They already had about 3000 miles on them so they took a good beating. I rode w/ the Kenda's in Oklahoma for about 400 miles of complete off road, sand, gravel, dirt. I reached that point where tires weren't gripping and chain was slipping. Managed to get to Buena Vista, CO and swapped out my Kenda for Dunlops 606 (All he had or I would've gone w/ Kenda again).

Saddle Bags: Swamp, I think you hit the button here w/ the Giant Loop Great basin bag. My wolfman actually held up pretty good. Right side got a tear in it not making it water tight anymore (Low slide off a corner in Ok). Once strap ripped off when it got caught with a tree in a single track in CO. I just hate taking the off and on, I dont like removing all the content from the inside if I'm not using it. So maybe there will be a change in my future, probably Giant Loop.

Riding Gear: I wore a Fox compression suit. Klim traverse jacket and pants, jacket never came on except when it poured at times. It worked perfectly for me. I always have my Camelbak Mule, fit's everything and water is plenty.

More to come... Stay tuned.. But if you have any questions.. shoot...
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:38 AM   #3144
windowto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post

The important thing is to share around what we each learn so the knowledge bank increases for all

Agreed. I still think Nylon needs to find a way to get bad fuel/water/whatever else from the system...
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:48 AM   #3145
WayneC1
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Sounds that way on the fuel, what he did not mention was finding the "Judder Ring/Spring, it looks like two metal discs each 1/2 the thickness of a steel clutch plate so they would be 1.75mm thick, if anything was going to break up (other than fibre plates) when pushing the clutch to the limit they would be the items and he has measured all the other plates at close to the correct thickness

The fact they are NLA on the fiche for over 12 months from memory is fishy to me, it smells of a discontinued part
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:43 AM   #3146
windowto
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Another idea...

Nylon,

I just had another thought. I think it might be possible that the back firing problem is caused by a short in the side stand switch wiring, or the switch itself. If you stop in gear (with clutch depressed of cause) and extend the side stand, the engine shuts off. This is to prevent the bike from moving forward unintentionally. The bike will shut off, unless it's in neutral. Having a short in the wiring can cause misfiring and intermittent ignition on/off scenario, while in gear. Can you experiment and quickly shift into neural, next time the bike misfires? I think, if the misfiring stops, or if you cannot duplicate the misfiring in neutral, you confirm that the problem is related to the switch circuit. I would probably do this before doing any other wrenching, since this requires no work at all.

Your thoughts Anyone? Am I missing anything?

windowto screwed with this post 07-19-2013 at 02:11 PM
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:14 PM   #3147
kdennan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windowto View Post
KD,

The bleed screw is on the right side just above the coolant hose and temp sensor. Remember, you need a steady stream, no bubbles or burps. And you are correct, the maintenance manual calls for "kneading" the radiator hose to get the bubbles out.

Great, thanks!
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:18 PM   #3148
The_Precious_Juice
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Thumb Thanks for the feedback

Quote:
Originally Posted by windowto View Post
Looking at how he puts the seat back on the bike, I suspect the seat wasn't installed properly to begin with. He just puts the seat on top of the bike and hopes it will hold. There are two catches upfront that can easily miss their targets on the frame. I suggest to always (after installation) try to spread apart the front edges of the seat to confirm the catches are seated correctly.

And no, there aren't a lot of bolts holding the seat, just two catches upfront, two pins under the passenger, and a latch in the back.
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Thanks for the helpful response.

Thanks for the pro tip on double checking that the seat is secured back on.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:29 PM   #3149
nylon2000
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Oddometer: 253
Clutch - Yes, found the 2 judder disks. The manual was critical in figuring out how to put those back together! I think im in good shape on this now, i got the old clutch working, have a dual spark set of friction plates, and a full new clutch, plus springs on its way over via DHL.

Fuel - I just cant believe i got that much water/crud in the tank after 1 bad fuel up. I know its mongolia here, but most of the places seem fine and sell 88 octane. It was just once that i had to use 76, and although the town was tiny, the pump was powered. It wasn't as if i was getting fuel from a barrel! I'll check the spark plugs, as thats relatively easy to get at - what am i looking for there?

I really hope this problem will just "sort itself out"!

Electrical - I haven't looked at my bike in a day, but when I summon the energy to face it, I'll start by jiggling the side stand to see if the switch is loose. I know where the switch is, and how to bypass it if needed. If its not that, then im in over my head!
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:32 PM   #3150
WayneC1
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Good to hear you worked out working on the clutch, I will be very interested to hear how you go with the dual spark plates, let us know and I will add the info of what you find to the online docs for others in the future

If you can look online I have a circuit diagram of the starter and lock out circuits on the repairs page, see the signature below
We have had to work on those with question/answer to talk people through faults and got them going, it is why I created the diagram

The side stand switch can lose the circlip and just sit in place ready to cause trouble, a quick bypass wire loop should tell you if it is the fault
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