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Old 08-02-2013, 05:45 PM   #1
side-wayz OP
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klr 650 compression

Klr died on the way to work this morning, getting fuel and spark. I tried doing a compression test and got 35 psi but I read there is something where the valves stay cracked open for an easy start??? Can anyone tell me how I am supposed to check the compression?
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Old 08-02-2013, 05:54 PM   #2
Full Power
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KLR is pretty slow, are you SURE it's actually dead ?
.
.
When you say " It has Fuel and Spark" do you mean In the combustion chamber.... or do you mean fuel IN THE TANK, and SPARK at the coil wire ?
It is possible that the vacuum hose to the fuel petcock has fallen off or cracked.... also a lesser but possible chance that the spark plug has failed.
.
. Normal cranking compression is listed in CLYMER as 77 to 124 PSI.
You might get out the feeler gauges, make sure there is some valve clearance under all four cam lobes.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:38 PM   #3
Lomez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by side-wayz View Post
Klr died on the way to work this morning, getting fuel and spark. I tried doing a compression test and got 35 psi but I read there is something where the valves stay cracked open for an easy start??? Can anyone tell me how I am supposed to check the compression?
not possible to check compression on KLR....or on many modern bikes for that matter. One exhaust valve cracks open when cranking. Leak-down can be done....if you have the time and tools.

How do you know you're getting fuel to the combustion chamber? I'd be looking at the primary jet if you have spark.
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:52 AM   #4
CycleDoc59
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Unless something drastic happens, compression
does not "stop" while you are riding. The usual symptom
of low compression is increased difficulty in starting...

If low compression is suspected, the first thing to check
is the valves; to be sure they are properly adjusted and
sealing when closed. (sealing checked by leak-down test)

The automatic compression release prevents normal
compression checks. And if the valve cover is removed
and the compression release deactivated, the starter
can't usually spin the engine against full compression...

If the bike simply stopped while being ridden, the problem
is most likely either (1st) fuel delivery or (2nd) ignition related....
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Old 08-03-2013, 10:29 AM   #5
the_gr8t_waldo
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drain off fuel from the bottom of the bowl..if you get nothing, you got no fuel! and attention should shift to the vacume enabled fuel petcock.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:16 PM   #6
side-wayz OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Power View Post
KLR is pretty slow, are you SURE it's actually dead ?
.
.
When you say " It has Fuel and Spark" do you mean In the combustion chamber.... or do you mean fuel IN THE TANK, and SPARK at the coil wire ?
It is possible that the vacuum hose to the fuel petcock has fallen off or cracked.... also a lesser but possible chance that the spark plug has failed.
.
. Normal cranking compression is listed in CLYMER as 77 to 124 PSI.
You might get out the feeler gauges, make sure there is some valve clearance under all four cam lobes.
haha, hey it gets up to 100 mph at about 7000 rpms.

It has fuel and spark in the combustion chamber. I'm gonna dig into it some more and see what I can figure out.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lomez View Post
not possible to check compression on KLR....or on many modern bikes for that matter. One exhaust valve cracks open when cranking. Leak-down can be done....if you have the time and tools.

How do you know you're getting fuel to the combustion chamber? I'd be looking at the primary jet if you have spark.

I took the spark plug out and was wet and smelt like fuel. I would think it would at least try to fire.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo View Post
drain off fuel from the bottom of the bowl..if you get nothing, you got no fuel! and attention should shift to the vacume enabled fuel petcock.

yup, got fuel in the carb.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CycleDoc59 View Post
Unless something drastic happens, compression
does not "stop" while you are riding. The usual symptom
of low compression is increased difficulty in starting...

If low compression is suspected, the first thing to check
is the valves; to be sure they are properly adjusted and
sealing when closed. (sealing checked by leak-down test)

The automatic compression release prevents normal
compression checks. And if the valve cover is removed
and the compression release deactivated, the starter
can't usually spin the engine against full compression...

If the bike simply stopped while being ridden, the problem
is most likely either (1st) fuel delivery or (2nd) ignition related....
Its been starting fine and running good everyday and just acted like it ran out of gas. the engine turns over, just won't fire up. I'll have to see how to start testing ignition.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:45 PM   #10
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diggin further into it

Thanks for the ideas everybody, I'm gonna do a little more research and hopefully something makes sense to me.
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:01 PM   #11
D.T.
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I'd like to know some of the tricks of compression testing with a ACR myself.. Service manuals are no help. I suppose you could use a zip tie.

My SV had a centrifugal that came off the bucket when the cam came up to speed.
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:07 PM   #12
side-wayz OP
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Originally Posted by D.T. View Post
I'd like to know some of the tricks of compression testing with a ACR myself.. Service manuals are no help. I suppose you could use a zip tie.

My SV had a centrifugal that came off the bucket when the cam came up to speed.
zip ties hold the rest of my bike together, why not?


I'm hoping a leak down test will work, but I have to figure out how to do that first.
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:56 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by side-wayz View Post
zip ties hold the rest of my bike together, why not?


I'm hoping a leak down test will work, but I have to figure out how to do that first.

I'm thinking about taking the spring off that holds the exhaust valve open for the KACR. bad idea or good idea? seems like it'd work but a lot of work just for a compression test.
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:03 PM   #14
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take the spring off?

sounds like if I took the spring off that holds the exhaust valve open while starting, I could get an accurate compression reading. Mines only reading 35 psi without disableing the kacr.
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:22 PM   #15
D.T.
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Cheapo leak down would be take the exhaust pipe off and intake boot off the head. Then put air down the spark plug hole at TDC. Then see where it leaks. Piston would be out the crank breather.


I'm not a KLR owner, just bored and want to participate. :)
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