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Old 08-05-2013, 06:36 AM   #8266
Dirty3
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Melbourne SE Burbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
D3,
Nice machine and welcome tothe madhouse.

bill
Cheers Bill

Looking forward to it!!
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:40 AM   #8267
meat popsicle
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
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Meaty.. you big sissy
Ego protecting the Id -standard practice.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:26 AM   #8268
wvrocks
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Elkins, WV
Oddometer: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boon Booni View Post
Mine would howl each and every time I got in the rear when speeds were below 20ish.

After zip tieing all of the rear spoke intersections, she'll howl only every nice in a while and not nearly as loud.

The front doesn't make any noise, but the front wheel was replaced on recall to the much stronger setup.

The zip ties just about got rid of all the squeal when braking. Much nicer. Also found a loose spoke while I was cleaning them so that was good.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:50 AM   #8269
TowPro
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Compass PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvrocks View Post
The zip ties just about got rid of all the squeal when braking. Much nicer. Also found a loose spoke while I was cleaning them so that was good.
I will be dealing with the rear squeal this weekend.
I am starting with a new set of pads (my current ones are vintage 2000, as the bike only has 2200 miles on it).
I plan to use that automotive gook you put on the back of the new pads that acts like an isolator (if there is enough room).
then we will see if I need zip ties.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:16 AM   #8270
wvrocks
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Location: Elkins, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TowPro View Post
I will be dealing with the rear squeal this weekend.
I am starting with a new set of pads (my current ones are vintage 2000, as the bike only has 2200 miles on it).
I plan to use that automotive gook you put on the back of the new pads that acts like an isolator (if there is enough room).
then we will see if I need zip ties.
Mine has newer pads with about 1000 miles on them. Nothing on the back of the pads.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:26 PM   #8271
skibum69
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Joined: May 2006
Location: New Melbourne, Newfoundland
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Any thoughts as to why a new countershaft sprocket seal would still want to weep some oil now that my clutch is finally fixed?
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:59 PM   #8272
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum69 View Post
Any thoughts as to why a new countershaft sprocket seal would still want to weep some oil now that my clutch is finally fixed?
Did the previous seal wear a groove in the sprocket or shaft?
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:54 PM   #8273
gunnerbuck
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum69 View Post
Any thoughts as to why a new countershaft sprocket seal would still want to weep some oil now that my clutch is finally fixed?
It's a 2 part repair, you have the seal which lasts a long time and the o-ring which should be replaced every time you change the countershaft sprocket...

If you only replaced the seal and not the o-ring then it is likely that the o-ring is what was leaking...
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:00 PM   #8274
in-trim
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Land of Redwoods and private gardens
Oddometer: 29
DEcomPRESSED

Howdy folks,,, About 5 months ago I got a 2003 640A with 24k on it from another inmate. It wasn't the cleanest nor dirtiest bike out there, but it felt like a good runner and had worked on suspension.

I've got decompression issues described in more length on this thread,
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=910080.

Short questions,,, if the lobe to the manual decompression lever isn't touching rocker arm for exhaust valves and has full/smooth range of motion, so basically isn't working,,, is there a fix besides parts replacement?

Besides the clack sound or doing a compression check,,, is pulling the head and manually inspecting auto decomp on the cam the only other way to verify its functioning properly?

Thank you all for the info you've poured into this forum,,, and whatever help you might give me?

Cheers!
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:17 AM   #8275
Hockeygod
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Calgary / Seoul Korea
Oddometer: 725
Dirt Tricks KTM LC4 Dome Washer

Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum69 View Post
Any thoughts as to why a new countershaft sprocket seal would still want to weep some oil now that my clutch is finally fixed?
Don't know if this is a solution, but have you seen this and might it work? Has anyone used it? If so, thoughts? I was thinking about ordering one for $25.

http://dirttricks.com/shop/dirt-tricks-ktm-dome-washer

Dean
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:19 AM   #8276
skibum69
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Joined: May 2006
Location: New Melbourne, Newfoundland
Oddometer: 4,956
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
It's a 2 part repair, you have the seal which lasts a long time and the o-ring which should be replaced every time you change the countershaft sprocket...

If you only replaced the seal and not the o-ring then it is likely that the o-ring is what was leaking...
Quote:
Don't know if this is a solution, but have you seen this and might it work? Has anyone used it? If so, thoughts? I was thinking about ordering one for $25.
http://dirttricks.com/shop/dirt-tricks-ktm-dome-washer
Both good pieces of information and I can't remember if I changed that o-ring or not? Now the challenge would be to pull the new seal without destroying it to replace the 0-ring?

gunner are you familiar with this Dirt Tricks product for the LC4?
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:51 AM   #8277
gunnerbuck
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum69 View Post
Both good pieces of information and I can't remember if I changed that o-ring or not? Now the challenge would be to pull the new seal without destroying it to replace the 0-ring?

gunner are you familiar with this Dirt Tricks product for the LC4?

Hi Mike,
You don't need to pull the seal to replace the o-ring, just slide the metal bushing out and use a pic or make a hook out of a piece of wire to grab the o-ring... Make sure you get all the pieces as sometimes the o-ring breaks up... Make sure you put the cupped side of the bushing inward against the o-ring...

With the old spring washer should be replaced, but I sometimes reuse them... What I do is set the washer into a large socket {1 1/4"} and then peen it by using a ball peen hammer head for the punch and hitting it with a second hammer... This usually takes only one whack to add the required bit of side tension to the spring washer...


gunnerbuck screwed with this post 08-08-2013 at 07:58 AM
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:02 PM   #8278
straight_8
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Goose Bay...yes way up there
Oddometer: 74
New owner (for the second time)

My new 07 next to my well used 02.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:33 AM   #8279
singletrak
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Location: Minneapolis,MN
Oddometer: 69
My Hi Beam headlight does not work even after replacing the bulb. The Low Beam works, the running light works .. but the Hi beam does not work. I suppose I could have gotten a bad bulb? Anything else I may be missing?


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Old 08-11-2013, 11:00 AM   #8280
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 8,800
Quote:
Originally Posted by singletrak View Post
My Hi Beam headlight does not work even after replacing the bulb. The Low Beam works, the running light works .. but the Hi beam does not work. I suppose I could have gotten a bad bulb? Anything else I may be missing?
Do a continuity test on the bulb and if it's good, use a voltmeter to see if there's power in the connecter to the bulb. Just keep tracing the wiring back from the bulb to the hi/lo switch, then back farther if necessary and you'll eventually find the problem.
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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