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Old 08-13-2013, 04:06 PM   #16
Rugby4life OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acejones View Post
How do you feel about BMW of Baton Rouge now ?
Now everybody, understand that I'm not bashing the dealership (wasn't dealing with Baton Rouge BTW). They have a hourly rate and a service manual that tells them to remove all this stuff just to get to the bulb. Simple math says it's gonna cost an arm and a leg. The point I made to the customer relations rep is that this is not the kind of German engineering I've come to expect. Changing a headlight bulb is the kind of thing any owner should be able to do in 10-15 minutes. How hard is it to design an access panel? I would be happy if you could remove the right side glovebox and gain access. Is that too much to ask?
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:37 PM   #17
DudeClone
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how many German's does it take to change a BMW scooter headlamp bulb?

well, its supposed to be a joke but i can't think of a punch line!!
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:19 PM   #18
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Can you post a picture of what you see after removing the right side panel? I have minimal experience with the 650GT (don't have Pop's here for reference) but it has many similarities w/ my GSA. Replacement should not be all that tough... only akward Post a pic & I'll try to help.

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Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
After nearly 8k miles, my low beam bulb died. I think it shook to death over the "streets" of New Orleans. Any way, I checked the owners manual and it said to remove the right side panel to gain access to the bulb. Removed the panel and the battery and multiple fuse blocks are in the way. Removed the battery but couldn't see how to remove the battery box and fuse blocks. Called the dealership and the service manual calls for the entire front end to be disassembled for access. I'm not going to pay 2-3 hrs of shop time to change a stupid bulb. Anybody know a better way to gain access?
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acejones View Post
How do you feel about BMW of Baton Rouge now ?
I did the warranty research first, no need to call them, I was wrong, get it, I was wrong, I posted I was wrong, get it?
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:35 PM   #20
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I did the warranty research first, no need to call them, I was wrong, get it, I was wrong, I posted I was wrong, get it?
You might want to mention it again, just to be sure.

Oh - by the way you were wrong
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:46 PM   #21
Jimbozini
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The easiest way my be to remove the headlight assembly. Can you gain access to the assembly by removing the left & right fairing panels? I ask this as it is very cumbersome to access the back of the headlight assembly on a GSA as directed but a piece of cake with the assembly removed!
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:57 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
You might want to mention it again, just to be sure.

Oh - by the way you were wrong
Actually I'm rereconsidering my position on this issue.
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbozini View Post
Can you post a picture of what you see after removing the right side panel? I have minimal experience with the 650GT (don't have Pop's here for reference) but it has many similarities w/ my GSA. Replacement should not be all that tough... only akward Post a pic & I'll try to help.
Sorry it took me so long to update this thread but life has been getting in the way. After speaking with the customer service rep, I got a follow-up call from a tech services rep. After reviewing the shop manual, they tinkered around with a GT and came up with an alternate procedure that doesn't call for disassembling the entire front of the bike. It was supposed to be a 20 minute service but it took me 45 since it was my first try, plus I got everything buttoned back up before realizing I hadn't replaced the rubber socket cover and had to pull it all apart again. Thankfully it can all be done with a T-25 torx head driver and a Phillips head screwdriver.

1. Remove the right side panel


2. Disconnect and remove the battery
3. Remove the 2 screws holding the battery box (bottom left side and top right back?


4. Cut 2 zip ties on back of battery box
5. move the box out of the way


6.If your arm is small and limber enough, you can gain access to the rear of the headlight socket
7. *** Bonus good news, the instrument panel retains it's memory so you don't have to reset the clock after reconnecting the battery.
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