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Old 08-14-2013, 09:39 PM   #4711
bigborefan
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Motul R600.

If you boil that you need to learn how to ride properly..

either that or your name is JMB, a known brake dragger, but one mad man on a dirt bike
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:06 AM   #4712
mflora98ss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resqd1 View Post
The 672 01 bend, got pics of the bars? Thanks for the info
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:54 AM   #4713
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
I don't think the reservoir extender will be useful, the fluid gets heated up at the opposite end of the line. My MC never gets hot enough unlike the caliper, so a caliper radiator from ST Racing should be much more effective.
Im told the reservoir helps in that it adds volume,fluid gets contaminated/overheated and having a little more of it helps it out some. Ive just gotten quick at bleeding/changing the rear fluid.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:11 AM   #4714
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Im told the reservoir helps in that it adds volume,fluid gets contaminated/overheated and having a little more of it helps it out some. Ive just gotten quick at bleeding/changing the rear fluid.
That might make a significant difference if the fluid would get cycled/mixed in the lines, but it doesn't. The bad/cooked fluid will always stay at the caliper end of the line IMO.

What temps are you guys getting at the MC after a spirited ride with lots of back brake?
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:21 AM   #4715
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
That might make a significant difference if the fluid would get cycled/mixed in the lines, but it doesn't. The bad/cooked fluid will always stay at the caliper end of the line IMO.

What temps are you guys getting at the MC after a spirited ride with lots of back brake?
The fluid does turn black in the master cylinder so Im thinking it does get mixed back and forth,tiny amount of fluid after KTM quit using an inline reservoir. 03 was the last year they had the plastic reservoir on dirtbikes.
I have no way to check temps but I use red Dunlop pads (carbon) to lower friction and temperature.
The OEM sintered pads get too grabby once they're good and hot for woods riding. Red pads make for smoother less intense braking sliding down cliffs and things.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:51 AM   #4716
J.Johnson
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Have any of you used the Blais Racing jet kit. A customer of mine swears it is the best money he ever spent. He had a JD kit and says the Blais is night and day difference.
Wanted to see if someone had a similar experience before I pull the trigger.


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Old 08-15-2013, 09:58 AM   #4717
resqd1
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Originally Posted by mflora98ss View Post
Cool thanks, have one from the front at all? Does that computer case lift the comp above the headlight
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:56 PM   #4718
mflora98ss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resqd1 View Post
Cool thanks, have one from the front at all? Does that computer case lift the comp above the headlight
It does stick up higher than stock. You can see it a lot better with the HDB setup.

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Old 08-15-2013, 02:27 PM   #4719
Bungholio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mflora98ss View Post
It does stick up higher than stock. You can see it a lot better with the HDB setup.

Do you have bars raised any? I have a damper that is recently installed and I moved my vapor to the top mount position but now brake line is uncomfortably short, rests firmly on the speedo at full extension. Considering using the stock speedo again. Maybe route brake line in front of headlight.

Very shiny bike, must not have hit the dirt yet.

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Old 08-15-2013, 03:03 PM   #4720
J.Johnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bungholio View Post
Do you have bars raised any? I have a damper that is recently installed and I moved my vapor to the top mount position but now brake line is uncomfortably short, rests firmly on the speedo at full extension. Considering using the stock speedo again. Maybe route brake line in front of headlight.

Very shiny bike, must not have hit the dirt yet.

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I have the voyager and a sub mount Scott's. HDB. Baja designs squadron which moves the plate forward. my brake line goes through the stock holder in the front plate. I do not have a problem with the brake line hitting the voyager and making the line too short. My voyager sits up high also.


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Old 08-15-2013, 03:15 PM   #4721
Bungholio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Johnson View Post
I have the voyager and a sub mount Scott's. HDB. Baja designs squadron which moves the plate forward. my brake line goes through the stock holder in the front plate. I do not have a problem with the brake line hitting the voyager and making the line too short. My voyager sits up high also.


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I have the TT X2 and brake line routing is behind the headlight mask. I routed it under the vapor and trapped by the left headlight mount strap, flexes to the left. I would prefer vertical movement. Will try in front of HL mask.

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Old 08-15-2013, 03:56 PM   #4722
xathor
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Changed the oil at 4.5 hours after the re-ring. Came out a little shiny under flashlight inspection but the full amount that I put in came back out.

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Old 08-15-2013, 06:11 PM   #4723
mflora98ss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bungholio View Post
Very shiny bike, must not have hit the dirt yet.
Oh she's hit the dirt all right.... that's how she likes it is dirty Jack! All it takes is a little simple green and some pressure washer action.
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:53 AM   #4724
KMC1
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Any of you guys running the 25 liter tanks, I have a question for you.

When I start running my bike hard and it gets hot, my gas starts to get boiled. I see it in the vent tube at the gas cap actually bubbling into the tube and my catch drain gets gas in it. The worst part is the bike starts to run terrible, won't start, keeps shutting off if the revs get too low, etc.

I think it's actually getting too much gas to the carb.....i think the fuel lines actually become pressurized and I've seen it drip from the air box. (Not from being tipped over)

I have both lines plumbed to the bike, and I think it's because the line on the throttle (right?) side of the bike comes so close to the exhaust and then right alongside the head. I have the lines doubled up and I put a heat wrap over it as well. But I think it's still getting so hot that its boiling the gas inside that fuel line.

Has anyone else seen this happen?

Also, I'm thinking of just going to one line on the non-throttle (left?) side and just removing the other line completely to take the heat source away. Aside from having to slosh the gas into that side of the tank when it gets low - is there any other reason that would be a problem?

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Old 08-17-2013, 12:57 PM   #4725
Hodakaguy
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Location: Eastern WA State
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMC1 View Post
Any of you guys running the 25 liter tanks, I have a question for you.

When I start running my bike hard and it gets hot, my gas starts to get boiled. I see it in the vent tube at the gas cap actually bubbling into the tube and my catch drain gets gas in it. The worst part is the bike starts to run terrible, won't start, keeps shutting off if the revs get too low, etc.

I think it's actually getting too much gas to the carb.....i think the fuel lines actually become pressurized and I've seen it drip from the air box. (Not from being tipped over)

I have both lines plumbed to the bike, and I think it's because the line on the throttle (right?) side of the bike comes so close to the exhaust and then right alongside the head. I have the lines doubled up and I put a heat wrap over it as well. But I think it's still getting so hot that its boiling the gas inside that fuel line.

Has anyone else seen this happen?

Also, I'm thinking of just going to one line on the non-throttle (left?) side and just removing the other line completely to take the heat source away. Aside from having to slosh the gas into that side of the tank when it gets low - is there any other reason that would be a problem?


I sleeve the fuel lines in insulated fire sleeves (available at auto parts stores) that helps keep the heat out of the lines, that with careful routing helps to keep the fuel in the lines cool. I've used larger fuel line to sleeve the fuel lines in as well in the past, pics below.

You'll also get a lot of heat from the engine that soaks directly into the tank, you can line the bottom of the tank with a stick on foil heat tape that helps as well.

What vent are you running on the fuel cap? If its a small unit with the built in check valve toss it! I've seen more than one fail closed, letting the tank pressurize. A vent line from the tank with no check is the way to go.

Here's a link to some pics on my original 530: http://www.advrider.com/forums//show...&postcount=388

Hodakaguy.
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