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Old 08-28-2013, 10:08 PM   #80731
blackcap
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the other technique is engine off, then use the front brake and clutch as your brakes. usually reserve this one for tricky downhill sections where you might want to have the option of getting both feet down or cant get your feet onto the pegs like with deep ruts. good idea to practice this one before you need it too, its a weird feeling letting the clutch out and pulling the brake lever in at the same time to slow yourself down


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
1. Roll in 1st and brake with the front until you're moving too slow for idle, then roll with the clutch pulled and use both brakes. Be careful to modulate the front brake so that it doesn't lock. You may occasionally want to drag the back tire around, but most of the time will be best with both wheels turning.

2. I get my weight as far back as practical. I usually stand, but my weight may be so far back that my butt is on the seat. If it's a short drop with an open runout, I may just lean back and wheely down.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:19 PM   #80732
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At 2200' asl, with a Jesse of kientech.com modded DynoJet kit setup (Jesse's open airbox specs...), 155 DJ mainjet for stock exhaust and Twin Air filter, adjustable fuel screw 1 1/4 out and IMPORTANTLY the needle clip set leaner than suggested, with the clip 3 down from the top (to eliminate the off extended idling flat spot, with the clip set 4 down from the top), my 07 starts great, pulls like a bear and gets great gas mileage.

What's not to like.

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Old 08-28-2013, 10:27 PM   #80733
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I have provided evidence in the form of a dyno chart with a CO trace that the DJ needle provides poor results. You have neither provided evidence that the DJ needle works well, nor that the non-USA adjustable OEM needle works poorly.Where do you think knowledge of the trends comes from if not from tuning, seeing what the results are and then keeping track of them?And well after that.

Regards,

Derek
Derek,
I hope you get a chance to get your hands on a few DR650's for some dyno tuning. Do you have a dyno on site?

Funny story there about Mark.
I have been present for some AMAZING LECTURES over the years ... always very educational. Unfortunately with me ... in one ear, out the other. He is a really good guy ... and so smart he's off the charts.

I get what your saying about the CO trace and DJ needle. All I can confirm is my bike runs like stink. The new carb (about 15K old now) shows no sign of emulsion tube wear or slide guide wear like my first one at 30K miles.
I just bought another ... BRAND NEW BST ... as a spare! But I do intend to try some different needles. Your non USA OEM one, Pro Factory's... and compare to my old (but not yet worn out) DJ needle. I can't afford dyno time ... but am pretty tuned into the bike.

I must say however .... I thought I may have detected some minor pinging on my ride last week. At high altitude (over 8000 ft., lugging under load with regular gas, 95F temps) Next fill up I switched to Mid Grade fuel and never noticed pinging again. I am not positive it was pinging ... but could have been.

First time I have ever noticed pinging ... but we were climbing STEEP grades ... so maybe that was it? I was pleased that the mid grade boost seemed to help. Or was it all my imagination? Problem is ... many times in the boonies only regular is available. I intend to follow up on this and push the bike some more ... see if it's really pinging or just drive line clatter ... or what?
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:39 PM   #80734
Mud-N-Rocks
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Tail light conversion

I am going to be getting a dr250 tail light for my 650 and was wondering why the procycle tail light is $30 more than the keintech tail light. Is there any major difference between the two? I have heard plenty about the procycle light, but has anybody found problems with the keintech kit?
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:43 AM   #80735
FirstPath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
Broke the upper chain roller out of the frame. Now my DR matches my wife's. I sealed up the holes in the frames with JB weld. I never should have put that roller back in.
Sorry to hear that Klay. How did it happen? I haven't removed mine yet as I have not gone and really taxed the rear suspension.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:58 AM   #80736
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud-N-Rocks View Post
I am going to be getting a dr250 tail light for my 650 and was wondering why the procycle tail light is $30 more than the keintech tail light. Is there any major difference between the two? I have heard plenty about the procycle light, but has anybody found problems with the keintech kit?
I called Kientech last week about the DR250 light kit. They aren't selling them anymore. Suzuki raised the price a lot. That's probably why ProCycles has gone up dramatically.

I just ordered a Maier Enduro Taillight. $24 It's what I had on my last DR650 and it was fine. Doesn't fit the opening exactly but it's close. Never had an issue with the old one.

If you go this route, get the larger of the 2 sizes.

side view:


rear view:



http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ail-Light.aspx

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Old 08-29-2013, 07:09 AM   #80737
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advrider web site
This message is hidden because motolab is on your ignore list.
Ahh... the ignore feature makes the interweb a much more serene place.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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procycle screwed with this post 08-29-2013 at 10:06 AM
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:23 AM   #80738
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Suzuki raised the price a lot. That's probably why ProCycles has gone up dramatically.
Yes, it has a new superseded part number and a tiny detail change in the construction plus a gigantic increase in the price. It's my belief that Suzuki has sold so many of them that they think the original 250 taillights are failing. Certainly between keintech and ProCycle we've sold far more taillights than Suzuki ever sold DRZ250s here in the US.

I am however working on a new option. ProCycle recently acquired a 3D printer. I'm using it to develop our own replacement taillight that will be a direct fit into the pocket in the fender.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:42 AM   #80739
bradrh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
What needle clip position? I'm just about to install the adj needle for running 1,000' lower range than you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You are the only rider I've heard of that feels successful with this setup. I'll concede that it might be workable at high altitudes. I'd love to know all the details of your setup.
145 main jet, 3Rd groove from the top
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:58 AM   #80740
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Do you have a dyno on site?
Yes sir. Charts can be seen here: http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/. There's only a smattering on the gallery home page. More can be found by using http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/search (although what can be found here is not exhaustive either).
Quote:
Funny story there about Mark.
His name is Marc.
Quote:
All I can confirm is my bike runs like stink.
What are the highest rpm you typically operate the engine at and what is the largest opening?
Quote:
The new carb (about 15K old now) shows no sign of emulsion tube wear or slide guide wear like my first one at 30K miles.
How deep are the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of the slide guide adjacent to the bore? By what method are you determining emulsion tube wear (or the lack thereof)?
Quote:
Your non USA OEM one, Pro Factory's... and compare to my old (but not yet worn out) DJ needle.
Being manufactured from stainless steel, the DJ needle will probably never wear significantly (but again, this is at the expense of the emulsion tube).
Quote:
I can't afford dyno time
I don't consider testing to get a snapshot of the relevant openings to be all that expensive.
Quote:
... but am pretty tuned into the bike.
Without data, it's pretty hard to tell what's really going on.
Quote:
I must say however .... I thought I may have detected some minor pinging on my ride last week. At high altitude (over 8000 ft., lugging under load with regular gas, 95F temps) Next fill up I switched to Mid Grade fuel and never noticed pinging again. I am not positive it was pinging ... but could have been.

First time I have ever noticed pinging ... but we were climbing STEEP grades ... so maybe that was it? I was pleased that the mid grade boost seemed to help. Or was it all my imagination? Problem is ... many times in the boonies only regular is available. I intend to follow up on this and push the bike some more ... see if it's really pinging or just drive line clatter ... or what?
Cylinder filling will be reduced at higher altitudes, which reduces the tendency to ping. However the air going over the fins also cools less. If you were heavily loading the engine at a relatively low road speed for an extended period, there may just not have been enough cooling capacity to get rid of the heat (which can then cause pinging). It would have been interesting to monitor cylinder head temp.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:21 AM   #80741
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post

I am however working on a new option. ProCycle recently acquired a 3D printer. I'm using it to develop our own replacement taillight that will be a direct fit into the pocket in the fender.
Now yah tell me.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:22 AM   #80742
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstPath View Post
Sorry to hear that Klay. How did it happen? I haven't removed mine yet as I have not gone and really taxed the rear suspension.

It's a known flaw of the DR650...just poorly engineered in that respect. The roller is just in the wrong place.

My wife's roller broke out of the frame early on...I imagine it was because of the lowering kit on her bike, which puts the chain in more of an interference fit with the roller. I thought maybe I could squeak by and leave the roller on mine because I added preload to the rear shock which moves the chain away from the roller. No dice.

I would just remove the upper roller. It's likely going to break out of the frame eventually if left in there. Some people block the threaded hole in the frame with a short stud that ends up flush with the surface of the frame. You don't want to have anything protruding that the chain might hit.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:21 AM   #80743
Mud-N-Rocks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Yes, it has a new superseded part number and a tiny detail change in the construction plus a gigantic increase in the price. It's my belief that Suzuki has sold so many of them that they think the original 250 taillights are failing. Certainly between keintech and ProCycle we've sold far more taillights than Suzuki ever sold DRZ250s here in the US.

I am however working on a new option. ProCycle recently acquired a 3D printer. I'm using it to develop our own replacement taillight that will be a direct fit into the pocket in the fender.
Thanks for the info, how long do you think it will be before you are selling the 3d printed lights? About how much would they go for?
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:05 AM   #80744
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud-N-Rocks View Post
Thanks for the info, how long do you think it will be before you are selling the 3d printed lights? About how much would they go for?
As always, when something is in development there are no easy answers to those questions. The price target is around $50 but really the price will depend on the actual cost of the components and assembly labor. I won't know costs until I have something very close to being finalized.

I have a working prototype now but am not 100% happy with it. In reality I would guess I am really only about halfway through the initial development. On the plus side, once I have a good design nailed down the 3D technology will allow me to make additional versions with relatively little additional time and energy.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:58 PM   #80745
amk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
A similarly setup bike with a stock non-USA needle will be unridable. The OEM needle profile is not compatible with a fully modified airbox. The OEM needle will work fine with the snorkel removed but once you open up the airbox the OEM needle will not have any height setting that will make for a good running motorcycle.
I had carb related problem not so long ago, and to check if I fixed it, I had run mine DR w/o air box side cover. Not sure if it would qualify for "opened airbox", but otherwise all components involved were unmodified OEM. Bike run well, the problem has gone, and I closed the cover. From the riding I do not feel any difference, open/closed, equally good.
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