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Old 08-28-2013, 07:58 PM   #80731
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
Mine with open air box, k&n filter, fmf muffler, adjustable OEM needle, runs great.
What altitude do you ride around at?
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Some are guard dogs of the flock. Some herders, search/rescue, or companions. We Devildogs are those, and also retrievers. Hell is our blazing dogpark, our frigid swimming hole. The fallen are our tennis balls. We don't leave the fallen behind, even if the master has to bring them home for us. Semper Fi, my friends.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:12 PM   #80732
Kommando
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Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
1. on super steep declines when 1st gear engine braking doesn't quite keep you slow enough, what is the best braking technique?

2. downhill, rough terrain. stand on pegs? weight forward or back?

tia
1. Roll in 1st and brake with the front until you're moving too slow for idle, then roll with the clutch pulled and use both brakes. Be careful to modulate the front brake so that it doesn't lock. You may occasionally want to drag the back tire around, but most of the time will be best with both wheels turning.

2. I get my weight as far back as practical. I usually stand, but my weight may be so far back that my butt is on the seat. If it's a short drop with an open runout, I may just lean back and wheely down.
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Some are guard dogs of the flock. Some herders, search/rescue, or companions. We Devildogs are those, and also retrievers. Hell is our blazing dogpark, our frigid swimming hole. The fallen are our tennis balls. We don't leave the fallen behind, even if the master has to bring them home for us. Semper Fi, my friends.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:13 PM   #80733
bradrh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
What altitude do you ride around at?
5000 - 11000 ft
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:48 PM   #80734
procycle
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I have provided evidence in the form of a dyno chart with a CO trace that the DJ needle provides poor results.
Yet again a lame attempt to deflect from the original point. My comment was NOT in any way related to the DynoJet needle. If DJ needles did not exist my comment would be just as true and valid. I don't really care what your opinion of DJ needles is and frankly I'm very tired of hearing about it. It is not pertinent to the point I made.

Can't you read what I say, take it at face value and respond to the point at hand? I guess not. If you can't stick to the point why respond at all? Just to turn it into an argument? What a waste.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:51 PM   #80735
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
5000 - 11000 ft
You are the only rider I've heard of that feels successful with this setup. I'll concede that it might be workable at high altitudes. I'd love to know all the details of your setup.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:56 PM   #80736
psmcd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
5000 - 11000 ft
What needle clip position? I'm just about to install the adj needle for running 1,000' lower range than you.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:16 PM   #80737
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
If DJ needles did not exist my comment would be just as true and valid.
It would not be valid regardless of whether DJ needles exist or not.
Quote:
I don't really care what your opinion of DJ needles is and frankly I'm very tired of hearing about it.
You must care what my opinion is, or else you would not continue to comment. I'm sorry you're tired of hearing about the DJ needle's shortcomings, but unfortunately that's not a good reason for me to stop contributing here.
Quote:
But if that It is not pertinent to the point I made.
It's pertinent because people tuning the BST40 carbs on their DR650s will need to select the needle that works best. Unfortunately that is a comparative endeavor that ideally involves becoming aware of the shortcomings of the DJ needle (as well as the advantages of the non-USA adjustable OEM needle), but we can leave it out if you like. Please provide a dyno chart with CO trace that demonstrates that a non-USA adjustable OEM jet needle is unworkable.
Quote:
Can't you read what I say, take it at face value and respond to the point at hand? I guess not. If you can't stick to the point why respond at all? Just to turn it into an argument?
I could ask you the exact same questions.
Quote:
What a waste.
Indeed.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 08-28-2013 at 10:27 PM
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:03 PM   #80738
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberhog9 View Post
Yeah I could have been a little more specific.Mainly I was asking what you all have for tires.I'd say I'm probably going to be mostly pavement with gravel and B roads too.Not much single track where I live.Just mostly for tooling around wherever.Won't be for commuting.
Thanks
There is a wide variety or tires made for DR650. I've used AT LEAST a half dozen different ones over the years. For "tooling" around and commuting I'd go with a street biased dual sport tire. These are pretty HD tires, give long life and are EXCELLENT on pavement but not great on gravel but do work. Considered 80/20 (street vs. off road) They are all weather and good on wet roads ...but not so good on muddy dirt roads.
Next is BUDGET ... how much you wanna spend? How far you wanna go?

The most popular current tire in this class for the DR650 is probably the Shinko 705. A great tire and affordable. Best value.
In this class you also have several other EXCELLENT tires:
Avon Distanzia
Michelin Anakee ll
Metzeler Tourance
Pirelli Scorpion Trail
Kenda 761
Bridgestone Battlewing (140 rear)
Dunlop Trail max TR91
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:08 PM   #80739
blackcap
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the other technique is engine off, then use the front brake and clutch as your brakes. usually reserve this one for tricky downhill sections where you might want to have the option of getting both feet down or cant get your feet onto the pegs like with deep ruts. good idea to practice this one before you need it too, its a weird feeling letting the clutch out and pulling the brake lever in at the same time to slow yourself down


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
1. Roll in 1st and brake with the front until you're moving too slow for idle, then roll with the clutch pulled and use both brakes. Be careful to modulate the front brake so that it doesn't lock. You may occasionally want to drag the back tire around, but most of the time will be best with both wheels turning.

2. I get my weight as far back as practical. I usually stand, but my weight may be so far back that my butt is on the seat. If it's a short drop with an open runout, I may just lean back and wheely down.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:19 PM   #80740
996DL
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At 2200' asl, with a Jesse of kientech.com modded DynoJet kit setup (Jesse's open airbox specs...), 155 DJ mainjet for stock exhaust and Twin Air filter, adjustable fuel screw 1 1/4 out and IMPORTANTLY the needle clip set leaner than suggested, with the clip 3 down from the top (to eliminate the off extended idling flat spot, with the clip set 4 down from the top), my 07 starts great, pulls like a bear and gets great gas mileage.

What's not to like.

644DR
1203XBX
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:27 PM   #80741
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I have provided evidence in the form of a dyno chart with a CO trace that the DJ needle provides poor results. You have neither provided evidence that the DJ needle works well, nor that the non-USA adjustable OEM needle works poorly.Where do you think knowledge of the trends comes from if not from tuning, seeing what the results are and then keeping track of them?And well after that.

Regards,

Derek
Derek,
I hope you get a chance to get your hands on a few DR650's for some dyno tuning. Do you have a dyno on site?

Funny story there about Mark.
I have been present for some AMAZING LECTURES over the years ... always very educational. Unfortunately with me ... in one ear, out the other. He is a really good guy ... and so smart he's off the charts.

I get what your saying about the CO trace and DJ needle. All I can confirm is my bike runs like stink. The new carb (about 15K old now) shows no sign of emulsion tube wear or slide guide wear like my first one at 30K miles.
I just bought another ... BRAND NEW BST ... as a spare! But I do intend to try some different needles. Your non USA OEM one, Pro Factory's... and compare to my old (but not yet worn out) DJ needle. I can't afford dyno time ... but am pretty tuned into the bike.

I must say however .... I thought I may have detected some minor pinging on my ride last week. At high altitude (over 8000 ft., lugging under load with regular gas, 95F temps) Next fill up I switched to Mid Grade fuel and never noticed pinging again. I am not positive it was pinging ... but could have been.

First time I have ever noticed pinging ... but we were climbing STEEP grades ... so maybe that was it? I was pleased that the mid grade boost seemed to help. Or was it all my imagination? Problem is ... many times in the boonies only regular is available. I intend to follow up on this and push the bike some more ... see if it's really pinging or just drive line clatter ... or what?
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:39 PM   #80742
Mud-N-Rocks
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Tail light conversion

I am going to be getting a dr250 tail light for my 650 and was wondering why the procycle tail light is $30 more than the keintech tail light. Is there any major difference between the two? I have heard plenty about the procycle light, but has anybody found problems with the keintech kit?
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:43 AM   #80743
FirstPath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
Broke the upper chain roller out of the frame. Now my DR matches my wife's. I sealed up the holes in the frames with JB weld. I never should have put that roller back in.
Sorry to hear that Klay. How did it happen? I haven't removed mine yet as I have not gone and really taxed the rear suspension.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:58 AM   #80744
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud-N-Rocks View Post
I am going to be getting a dr250 tail light for my 650 and was wondering why the procycle tail light is $30 more than the keintech tail light. Is there any major difference between the two? I have heard plenty about the procycle light, but has anybody found problems with the keintech kit?
I called Kientech last week about the DR250 light kit. They aren't selling them anymore. Suzuki raised the price a lot. That's probably why ProCycles has gone up dramatically.

I just ordered a Maier Enduro Taillight. $24 It's what I had on my last DR650 and it was fine. Doesn't fit the opening exactly but it's close. Never had an issue with the old one.

If you go this route, get the larger of the 2 sizes.

side view:


rear view:



http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ail-Light.aspx

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Old 08-29-2013, 07:09 AM   #80745
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advrider web site
This message is hidden because motolab is on your ignore list.
Ahh... the ignore feature makes the interweb a much more serene place.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning

procycle screwed with this post 08-29-2013 at 10:06 AM
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