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Old 08-30-2013, 05:24 AM   #31
sailah OP
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Originally Posted by Cat Daddy View Post
The most I've done is 9 coats.

This bike frame is three coats. White base, apply stencils, maroon and orange mid coats, then peel stencils and clear top coat.









I've done a ton of these jobs. You're looking at body work, and then 3 coats on top of that.











There's 9 coats total on this tank. Lots of body work.













CatDaddy, your work is just fantastic.

Would you be willing to share the steps on how to get a good candy finish? I'd like to do a frame this winter, but I also know it's how you make a living.

Couple other questions...

What's the deal with hot-coating? If I am drying something off in the oven, what should the part temp be before I can shoot it? Is it desirable or does it even matter?

I thought you couldn't do bodywork under pc?

Is clearcoating as simple as it sounds? Can I bake the color on, let the part cool down to X degrees and then shoot clear and rebake? Do I adjust the bake times knowing that I will clear coat?

Can you do exhaust coatings with a normal powdercoating setup?

Thanks
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:55 PM   #32
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:21 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by sailah View Post
CatDaddy, your work is just fantastic.

Would you be willing to share the steps on how to get a good candy finish? I'd like to do a frame this winter, but I also know it's how you make a living.

Couple other questions...

What's the deal with hot-coating? If I am drying something off in the oven, what should the part temp be before I can shoot it? Is it desirable or does it even matter?

I thought you couldn't do bodywork under pc?

Is clearcoating as simple as it sounds? Can I bake the color on, let the part cool down to X degrees and then shoot clear and rebake? Do I adjust the bake times knowing that I will clear coat?

Can you do exhaust coatings with a normal powdercoating setup?

Thanks
As far as temps for coating, I shoot everything dead cold. If you shoot at any elevated temperature, you're gonna get too much film thickness. That's a sure fire method to a bad finish, is hot flocking. Take those frames for instance, if you shoot them hot, the head tube and other thick areas will stay hot longer than the thin sheetmetal sides. So as you apply your candy, you're gonna get too much powder on the hot areas and less on the thinner, colder areas. That's gonna be a guaranteed heartbreaker when you crack the oven door open in half and hour to see your final product. All of the thicker areas of the part will be a darker shade of candy than the thin ones. Splotchy....

I do not do any high temp powder work. The product just isn't durable. All of my exhausts are Cerakote ceramic. That is a liquid product which I apply with a paint gun like normal paint. It's such good stuff, I can't rave enough about it.

I did the exhausts on my own Royal Enfield and my TW200 last year to keep first hand tabs on durability in the long haul. It has not been disappointing. I love ceramic coating.





Clear powder is applied exactly like normal colored powder. You apply your color, cure, let cool down to room temperature, apply clear and cure again.

I use clear on any two tone job I do to smooth the transition between the colors. I do a lot of stencil work on my two tones job. First, apply a base color and cure, then vinyl decals, apply second color, cure, pull decals off to expose the underlying base color, then clear the whole deal to smooth out the transitions.

Bodywork is no problem at all. Use JB Weld for a filler or Metal-2-Metal body filler (by Evercoat). Block sand, fill, sand, fill as needed. Then KL primer over it all and block sand some more. Then color.

I warn you though, a candy job can get real sketchy over bodywork. It's by far the biggest challenge in the craft. The filler doesn't have the same electrical conductivity as metal so you can easily get thin spots where the powder isn't even thickness across the entire part. That leads to splotches and subsequently a trip into the stripper tank to remove it all, and a complete redo of all your body work for a second attempt.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:36 PM   #34
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Two things I forgot to add.

1) the high temp tape sold by powder supply houses is pure unadulterated steaming donkey shit. It lifts, and it shrinks under heat which will pull your powder edges with it as it cures. I use either Oracal sign vinyl or aircraft composite tape. The aircraft tape is super stuff. I have a source where I get it due to it being out of date. The FAA won't allow any out of date tape in any aircraft shop so it gets thrown away frequently. I don't have any such prejudices with expiration date and am very happy to use it. Barring having an inside source like I do, you can get it from aircraft supply houses that cater to home built aircraft guys.

2) powder. NIC prismatic is the only place. Forget PBTP, Powder 365, Columbia etc. get it straight from the best. Yes, they are a bit slower as they make every batch of powder fresh when you order it. That will delay your order for 2-3 extra days, but its worth it. Price is comparable to the other places mentioned above. They have something like 6500 colors nowadays. Look at the gallery section of NIC Prismatic website. That's where you'll see the front runners in custom powdercoating displaying their work. I've got a few pictures of my work on there, but basically those guys make me look like a chump with my work compared to theirs.
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Old 08-31-2013, 05:38 AM   #35
sailah OP
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Great thanks. I've done very little coating but I want to do more. Your stencils are sweet.
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:13 PM   #36
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I warn you though, a candy job can get real sketchy over bodywork. It's by far the biggest challenge in the craft. The filler doesn't have the same electrical conductivity as metal so you can easily get thin spots where the powder isn't even thickness across the entire part. That leads to splotches and subsequently a trip into the stripper tank to remove it all, and a complete redo of all your body work for a second attempt.

I bought some body solder from Eastwood that's supposedly good for 450f that's conductive, haven't tried it yet but hope it will work as a filling alternative.
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