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Old 08-07-2013, 10:06 PM   #16
Bigger Al
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Location: Auburn, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi View Post
What a great idea THOSE things were.

No shit.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:06 PM   #17
MitchG
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Jeeps have them as well, a real pleasure in the bush.......
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:46 AM   #18
H96669
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Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi View Post
What a great idea THOSE things were.
Them things...GM was using them in the 70's and later. Replaced on sight on all my vehicles ever since with the good ones. I was the only one in the shop with the "special" sockets to remove them after the chrome cap came off, they never took the impact well so we did most of them with the lug nut wrench.

Not many sockets around in the x/32's. I think I still have them.
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Old 08-10-2013, 06:48 AM   #19
vtwin
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Use a 12pt socket that you have to pound on the lug nut. Remove with breaker bar, not an impact gun. Have done many of these.
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:23 PM   #20
HapHazard
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For the Rust...

Also, squirt 50/50 acetone & ATF on the fronts and backs of the lugs and let it soak.
Couldn't hurt.

Also, heat can be helpful.

Good luck!
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Old 08-10-2013, 06:18 PM   #21
broncobowsher
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Baking in AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjydrafter View Post
Get an impact socket that is slightly smaller than the OD of the lock, pound the socket on to the lock and spin it off. Punch the lock out of the socket in a vise.
^^^THIS^^^

I have done it countless times. I will use 6 point or 12 point, English or metric. Whatever doesn't fit but can be hammered over the lock. Beat it on, impact or cheater bar them loose.

Chisels are bad, they tend to work the stud loose. Hit it wrong and you can bend the stud, stretch it, loose the interference fit to the flange and have a nut stuck to the stud and the stud spinning in the flange. Now you have big issues!

There are special sockets, I find the hammer a socket over the bolt works better then the special tools. I have even installed (and torqued no less) locking lugnuts with the hammer a socket in place trick. No reason to get any more complicated then that.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:38 PM   #22
arcanum OP
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Mission accomplished

I tried drilling thru the tin cap and using the acetone/ATF but still no go. It was not really a corrosion issue anyway, but badly distorted threads.
What was the most efficient thing to do [in my opinion] was to start with a sharp 1/8' drill bit and drill the stud to the base of the threads and then use larger and larger bit sizes until I had at at a half inch. They came right off with a socket and breaker bar very easily.
I did break off a drill bit. I then had to drill two extra holes outside the broken bit, split the nut and stud, and get a ball shaped grinding stone to grind away the whole mess down to the wheel surface. Took an extra hour,but i saved the wheel.
The tin covers convinced me that I made the right choice. I figured that it was better to lose some studs to drilling that were crap anyway and that made it easy to get the lug nuts off.
I cut the stud remnants off square, used penetrating oil and heat and then pounded what remained of the stud back thru the wheel hub. I was able to use a spacer and the impact wrench to seat a brand new stud in the wheel hub without removing the axle Thank you Jesus!

Not saying my way was the best way,but just wanted to add some info to the mix. Thanks for your help and especially Troidus,whose method I chose to make the repair.
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:48 AM   #23
slowpoke69
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+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjydrafter View Post
Get an impact socket that is slightly smaller than the OD of the lock, pound the socket on to the lock and spin it off. Punch the lock out of the socket in a vise.
I've done this many times, no need to buy or rent something.
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