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Old 09-13-2013, 05:43 PM   #31
250senuf
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Originally Posted by ramjet View Post
Picked up a new Sandisk 8g card to use. SD card reader won't read the micro in the SD adapter.
It could be that your card reader or adapter can't handle SDHC, SD. 8GB would be SDHC. The max for SD is either 2 or 4GB.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:26 AM   #32
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Quick question

Hey!

I have just made a master reset on my 60csx and set it up per your instructions in this thread. Thanks for such a detailed explanation. But a have a question. I have made a custom map set on the SD card, my country and the neighbouring ones, and have unchecked world marine map in the GPS itself, but when inserting a new address or destination I always get all the worlds addresses in there. So is there any way to remove all world addresses? I only need central EU, not Pakistan, Brasil, Nepal, and similar addresses.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:47 AM   #33
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It's probably digging that stuff up from the basemap installed on the device.
I don't think that can be turned off.

IIRC the default for searching is to search by nearest, rather than alphabetical, so the topmost results in the list should be the nearest. If you're on the edge of your installed mapsets, it may be pulling from the basemap in addition to what's in your mapset.

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Old 05-02-2014, 02:25 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by SnowMule View Post
It's probably digging that stuff up from the basemap installed on the device.
I don't think that can be turned off.

IIRC the default for searching is to search by nearest, rather than alphabetical, so the topmost results in the list should be the nearest. If you're on the edge of your installed mapsets, it may be pulling from the basemap in addition to what's in your mapset.

Thanks for your reply, I made a reset to factory defaults, unchecked the base marine map on the device and after that put the SD Card with my maps on and it seems to have solved the problem and it is showing results nearest first.

Cheers!
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:02 AM   #35
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Preview On the topic of master resets and position fixes...
...GPS misbehaving? Unit locking up?
First try pulling the µSD card. If there's corrupt data on there, that could cause some strange behavior in the receiver as it tries to read that bad data.

Taking a while to acquire a position, or not acquiring satellite lock at all?
Probably time to reset everything and start fresh.

This will reset ALL your user data! If you've got waypoints/tracks/routes in there you want saved, make a copy of them.
Data on the µSD card is safe through a reset, though I recommend removing the card until you're ready to deal with that data.

The non-color 60/76's use [MENU] on startup to reset.
The Color+ 60/76's use [PAGE]+[ENTER] at boot.
You'll see the "Are you sure?" alert:

Cursor right to "Yes", then [ENTER]. Screen will flash and (almost) everything will be reset to defaults.
Welcome message and mapset cache persist through a master reset. I haven't found a way to wipe these yet.
What does get reset is all your settings, active log and saved tracks, waypoints, routes, satellite data, and the date/time.

Since the unit now has no idea where on the planet it is, no idea what time it is, or where to look for satellites, it needs to reacquire all the information on the satellite constellation. This is called a "Cold fix". Set the receiver somewhere it has a clear view of the sky, and leave it there for 15-30 minutes.

Almanac data is transmitted in fragments with the messages from the satellites. It takes a little over 12 minutes to get the entire package of data that contains the location of all the satellites in the GPS constellation.
In order to download a complete almanac, a single satellite has to be in range for the whole 12+ minutes; the receiver can't piece together a complete message with parts of the message from several satellites.
This data is valid for several months (updated at least every 6 days), although your GPS will always be downloading and using the latest data as it's being received from the satellites.

Ephemeris data is the specific data for the satellite in its orbit. This data is only valid for four hours, although it's updated more often than that (2 hours). The receiver needs about 30 seconds to download that information.

Once the GPS receiver has BOTH the complete almanac and ephemeris data for 3 or more satellites, it will be able to calculate a position.
The precise time signal (Each satellite has a Cs-atom time standard on board) is used to determine your point in space.

A "Warm fix" is where the receiver has a valid almanac, knows what time it is, and knows about where on the earth it is (within 200 miles of last fix). An updated date/time and current ephemeris data is all that's needed.

"Hot fix" is where all the information is already known. In "Power Save" mode, the receiver only does position calculations every 10 seconds... basically turns off then back on and "hot-fixes" every 10 seconds. Power-cycling the GPS usually results in a hot-fix as well.

That's why it takes so long to calculate where you are after a reset, or after the GPS has moved from where it thinks it is.

On the Satellites page, the horizon is the outer ring, and straight up is the center dot.
Empty bars indicate the receiver is reading data from that satellite but doesn't have current ephemeris data on it.
A filled bar indicates the ephemeris data and time is downloaded and being used in the position calculation.
A "D" on the filled bar indicates a differential (WAAS or EGNOS, if enabled in settings) correction on that satellite.
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Old 09-11-2014, 05:14 AM   #36
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What kind of fuses to you use on your bike while charging your GPS? Original Garmin is glass fuse rated at 1,5A since these are hard to get, can I use a 2A blade style fuse?

Thanks!
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Old 09-11-2014, 12:21 PM   #37
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What kind of fuses to you use on your bike while charging your GPS? Original Garmin is glass fuse rated at 1,5A since these are hard to get, can I use a 2A blade style fuse?

Thanks!
The GPS doesn't charge off the external power.

USB must be regulated (well-regulated, i've blown up a GPS using a cheap car charger) to 5V. Unless it's a computer, I -never- use USB to run the receiver.
The 4-pin round can take 8-30V DC on the power and ground pins of that connector. There's a regulator inside the GPS that brings that power down to a usable voltage.

With power on either USB or the 4-pin round, the GPS will switch to external-power and show a plug icon where the battery gauge usually is. The unit will run off that until power is removed, at which point it switches back to batteries and depending on your settings either starts a 30-sec shutdown timer or throws an "External power lost [Enter]" alert and stays on. (The 62/78's removed the option to "stay on"

The GPS uses about 1/4-amp (250mA) iirc, with everything running. 1A fuse is plenty adequate.

Personally, I have a polyfuse in my dualsport controller where the connector for my GPS is. On the sled I've got a 1A blade fuse inline. I've never popped either one.
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Old 09-12-2014, 02:26 AM   #38
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Thanks for a really informative reply I am using a 4-pin plug and it is wired directly to the battery. So now that I know that 1A fuse is enough, I will go and get some of them.

Thanks a lot!
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Old 10-08-2014, 11:56 PM   #39
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Very helpful write-up. Thank you.

This write-up has been extremely helpful for me. I have a 60CSx that I have never taken the time to try and learn to properly use, until recently. I finally figured out how to use Mapsource and get the maps and tracks loaded that are relevant to my area (reducing large tracks to multiple 500 pt files, selecting map segments, etc.), but once I got them loaded on the device, what I noticed was that none of my efforts mattered if I CAN'T SEE THE BLOODY THING.

I find that when motoring along, I have to pull over, cup hand over lens, squint, take a breath, squint again, give up, reach for reading glasses, then still find I can't see the damn dotted line of the intended tracks I wish to follow, but ... only AFTER I realize I have been following a contour line for the last 40 miles.

I have tried setting the track colors to every option, but I haven't seen anything with enough contrast to jump off the green background the map uses to define national forest.

I need to figure out a way to increase the weight of the line used for the tracks. Or change the background color of the map. Or make them blink like a Vegas casino's marque.

I've seen the magnifying glass bolt-on device that is available, but I am already a bit uneasy about the vulnerability of the mounted GPS when exposed to offroad conditions, so the addition of yet another object flapping around isn't my preferred choice.

Is there by any chance a way to change to line weight of the tracks I load?

Again, thanks for this great write-up.
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:25 AM   #40
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I ride with a few guys who have this problem. On some units you can navigate a track. This puts a wide magenta line over the track. But as I write this I have my doubts that the 60 has this feature. I never tried to use it when I had one.

When I had my 60 I could only really see the screen if the sun was shining on it. So when I stopped to take a close look at something I would ensure I was oriented with the sun behind me.

I also use a Ram mount which allows some freedom in orienting the unit properly.

If you just plain can't see it because of poor eyesight, you might have to figure out a way to wear glasses while you ride.
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:23 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by DustyKnobs View Post
I have tried setting the track colors to every option, but I haven't seen anything with enough contrast to jump off the green background the map uses to define national forest. .
Sounds like you may have Topo maps activated. First very few people like all the topo lines but the green backgrouind is a problem for you.

Try turning off topo, if that helps then use City Nav or Roads & Rec maps with clear background.
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:52 AM   #42
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There is a "TracBack" feature that creates a route from a track in the receiver.
In the Tracks page, the "TracBack" item starts that process. The same can be done in saved tracks, go into the saved track details and choose "TracBack" in there.


Pick a point on the track; if there's a bunch of points under the cursor it'll bring up a detail window. Pick one.


If you've got a routable mapset installed it'll ask you to follow road, or follow track.
Following the track gives you the most precise routing on the track you laid down previously, but it's not a true "turn-by-turn" route.
Following road gives you the usual turn-by-turn directions with street names and everything.


Following track, the GPS distills the track points down into a useable "route" then begins navigation on that. It's not full-navigation, won't have the "Active Route" page in there, and I don't have the ability to (easily) drive a route to test it out at the moment. I think that'll make things a little easier on you though.

But no, to my knowledge, there is no way to change the weight of the track... kind of a function of the software in the receiver. Maybe forcing it to "night mode" or one of those color schemes would give you a better/more visible display?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Countdown View Post
Sounds like you may have Topo maps activated. First very few people like all the topo lines but the green backgrouind is a problem for you.

Try turning off topo, if that helps then use City Nav or Roads & Rec maps with clear background.
And yeah, topo maps aren't that great IMO. Only time I use them is snowmobiling. Street or dirt (truck or bike), CityNav's loaded. Much more useful and up-to-date information than topo offers.
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Old 10-09-2014, 04:46 PM   #43
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All good comments and suggestions.

I just experimented with picking a point on a track to assign a route, and that might be just enough for me to see it until I get to the green background of the National forest.

However, while poking at it, I noticed an option on the map menu that said something about "Ground Cover". I never quite knew what that did, so I just reset it to a small granularity of something like 500 feet. Turns out, when i do that, it turns off the green background until the screen is zoomed to that level, which is smaller than I use (I don't believe I have ever used it less than 800 feet).

Unfortunately, I don't know how to do the screen captures that are so slick, otherwise I would show the difference.

Anyway, the combination of turning off "ground cover", plus combining the route color and track color (which now is on the default dingy-yellow default map background) might be just about right for me to see. I'll give it a try this weekend.

Thanks again guys :-)
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Old 10-09-2014, 05:06 PM   #44
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There is one important thing I would during Set Up.

On Welcome page enter your name and phone number.
Posts #6 and #8 in this thread.

I also recommend a sticker under the battery door or on the side of the unit and text file on the memory card.
Same goes for cameras/helmetcams too.
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Old 10-09-2014, 05:19 PM   #45
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However, while poking at it, I noticed an option on the map menu that said something about "Ground Cover".
Map Setup, Points.
Gaaa... yeah, forgot about that. You can turn that (and any of the other ones) "off" too, it's above "auto". Kinda hidden if you're not looking for it.

Screenshots are done using Garmin's xImage tool, currently windows-only (does work in VM's and Wine if you're on Mac/*nix though).
That tool will also let you squirt in your own waypoint images, if you've ever wondered what that "Custom" category is at the bottom.

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