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Old 09-18-2013, 02:44 PM   #11056
motoged
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post
Quote:


When we pulled the fuel pump out today, the hose that connects to the end of the fuel filter is loose. I used the same hose that came with the CA Cycleworks fuel pump. It was in pink color in the box but it is now white. I used the 2 screw type clamps that came with the CA works pump. One clamp was used to secure the hose to the pump and the other to secure the other end of the hose to the fuel filter. I know that the OEM set up has 2 Oetiker clamps to secure the fuel filter. But the CA works hose is too big to use the OEM style Oetiker clamps.

Any suggestions ?

Yes....do NOT use the pink fuel line provided by CA Cycle as it is easily kinked and may not be suited for submersion in fuel over extended periods of time (re: previous info on fuel lines that are/are not suitable for submersion in gas.....Napa sells a 1' fuel line that is double-walled and suited for submersion ($20/ft )

The pink stuff may be submersible, but it kinks easily and that is enough reason why I replaced it within the hour of installing (checked to see if it was kinked and it was)....

As for the clamps....it has been repeated here numerous times that FI clamps (screw type, but not garden hose screw type) are easiest to use that don't require voodoo to install/remove. They are available in different sizes from good auto parts shop.

My $0.02 of wisdom



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Old 09-18-2013, 02:46 PM   #11057
ststrider
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does anyone know of a plug and play headlight switch that allows you to turn off the headlight and leave the daytime running light on?
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:55 PM   #11058
cyborg
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Location: Pacific NorthWet
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Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
All models have same linkage 2008- on
Thanks John Seems like we may need stronger ones?
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:28 PM   #11059
Yellow Pig
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Thousand Oaks, Ca.
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Originally Posted by ststrider View Post
does anyone know of a plug and play headlight switch that allows you to turn off the headlight and leave the daytime running light on?
No, but it's easy: Just cut the power wire to the low beam and put an On/Off switch inline. Done.
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:10 PM   #11060
Bill the Bong
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Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
Next on list, much easier to do on earlier forks
Oh shit. Should not have asked. There goes even more of my disposal income. Please name one of your nice machines after me.
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:00 AM   #11061
ktmmitch
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Originally Posted by v8toilet View Post
I'm sure that the kit has vastly improved valving and they most likely install the correct spring rates for each riders weight and preference.

Your stock setup can be revalved to be more plush.
Our Fork Kit for 300mm travel comes with longer piston rods, rebound adjuster tubes and longer springs. The springs are the correct weight, as the OEM ones are way too stiff.
There are no valving changes, but with the extra 50mm travel there is more oil volume in the fork, and coupled with a 110-105mm air gap, this gives a much improved action.
I personally have not changed any shim stacks on the later 2012-on forks, as the main problem with them is short stroke & stiff springs.
The other advantage when we fit the Tractive shocks is that they put more pressure on the forks, so making them work more effectively, as the OEM shock is too soft on springing and damping.
After just coming back from Spain we had 3 riders on 690's, and we were swapping from bike to bike to get a feel for the new Pirelli tyres we were testing for them. And one of the recurring comments was how well the 2 690's with the Tractive shocks were hooking up out of rutted corners, and by following these 2 bikes you could see the OEM bike "chopping" under acceleration out of rutted corners, whereas the Tractive shock was more supple, allowing the rear tyre to grip, and lift the front end clear of the ruts, much more controllable.
I am hoping to get a set of these 3 types of shocks over to Don at KTM Twins in CA for evaluation on their tracks.
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:13 AM   #11062
BIG-E
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Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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Hello Everyone,

Okay, I have a quandary.. I installed a new to me Rally Raid set of evo1 tanks on my bike, (all the hardware was brand new,) After install, I fill all 3 tanks up to max, no leaks on my bike lift.

Next morning I pull the bike out to the street and gear up, I come back 10 minutes later and at least a half gallon of fuel was running down my street with more on the way. out of the rear overflow.

It stopped, and I thought it was just leveling itself, off I go thinking I have at least 5 gallons of fuel on board. All is good...

I think I have a range of at least 200 miles, at 160 on the freeway, I done rund out! No light came on just nothing...

I checked the front tanks and sure enough, I still can see some fuel inside way down low, can't get it in the rear or to go anywhere. My beautiful wify saves me with a gallon of gas, fires right up off I go.

Sorry for the long post, but I am thinking either I lost more fuel than I thought, or the fuel isn't flowing.

Why would I have lost so much fuel when sitting still and the rear just slightly lower than the front? Any suggestions??

Thanks Everyone, Eric.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:29 AM   #11063
MeinMotorrad
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Location: Between Velez Rubio and Huercal Overa, Spain.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG-E View Post
Hello Everyone,

Okay, I have a quandary.. I installed a new to me Rally Raid set of evo1 tanks on my bike, (all the hardware was brand new,) After install, I fill all 3 tanks up to max, no leaks on my bike lift.

Next morning I pull the bike out to the street and gear up, I come back 10 minutes later and at least a half gallon of fuel was running down my street with more on the way. out of the rear overflow.

It stopped, and I thought it was just leveling itself, off I go thinking I have at least 5 gallons of fuel on board. All is good...

I think I have a range of at least 200 miles, at 160 on the freeway, I done rund out! No light came on just nothing...

I checked the front tanks and sure enough, I still can see some fuel inside way down low, can't get it in the rear or to go anywhere. My beautiful wify saves me with a gallon of gas, fires right up off I go.

Sorry for the long post, but I am thinking either I lost more fuel than I thought, or the fuel isn't flowing.

Why would I have lost so much fuel when sitting still and the rear just slightly lower than the front? Any suggestions??

Thanks Everyone, Eric.
No low fuel level warning light probably means you didn't run out of fuel. Does the pump prime OK when you turn the ignition on?

Have you got the clear/natural tanks or black. You can see how much fuel you really have with the clear ones - very useful. The petcock on the tanks them selves are above the bottom of the tanks, I'm guessing so silt doesn't enter the fuel lines.

Do the RR tanks not have venting on the filler caps? They should have if they are the originals. The fuel coming out of the overflow sounds like a vacuum problem.

When you fitted the tanks did you have the printed instructions? When you fitted the adapter to the bottom of the bike tank did you take the bottom tank bolt out and pivot the tank up - if so the quick disconnect to the fuel injector needs to be undone or you risk damaging it. Also if you did unplug the qd, did it click when you plugged it back together. There are reports on here of this qd coming undone becuase of contact with the frame etc. The fuel lines within the tank can get twisted when you refit the pump with the RR adapter fitted to the pump basket restricting fuel flow.

Over tight zip ties securing the fuel lines to the frame might cause problems. You could check all the obvious places for fuel leaks on your tank install: where the fuel lines connect to the RR tanks, quick disconnect, the t junction, and the RR adapter thingy (also check it is securely fitted to the bottom of the tank).

MeinMotorrad screwed with this post 09-19-2013 at 04:44 AM
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:07 AM   #11064
v8toilet
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Northwest U.S.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG-E View Post
Hello Everyone,

Okay, I have a quandary.. I installed a new to me Rally Raid set of evo1 tanks on my bike, (all the hardware was brand new,) After install, I fill all 3 tanks up to max, no leaks on my bike lift.

Next morning I pull the bike out to the street and gear up, I come back 10 minutes later and at least a half gallon of fuel was running down my street with more on the way. out of the rear overflow.

It stopped, and I thought it was just leveling itself, off I go thinking I have at least 5 gallons of fuel on board. All is good...

I think I have a range of at least 200 miles, at 160 on the freeway, I done rund out! No light came on just nothing...

I checked the front tanks and sure enough, I still can see some fuel inside way down low, can't get it in the rear or to go anywhere. My beautiful wify saves me with a gallon of gas, fires right up off I go.

Sorry for the long post, but I am thinking either I lost more fuel than I thought, or the fuel isn't flowing.

Why would I have lost so much fuel when sitting still and the rear just slightly lower than the front? Any suggestions??

Thanks Everyone, Eric.
I have a petcock on my EVO1 install. Until I burn 50 miles of fuel it stays closed or I get the same situation you experienced. You didn't have any leaks but the bike was off. Once it started running the fuel pump pulls some fuel from the front and once started gravity/siphoning took over. This combined with the fuel expanding from the heat of the bike is what I would guess caused the overflow. Close the petcock and open it when the trip ODO says 50. Maybe you can do it sooner I haven't tested it.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:11 AM   #11065
v8toilet
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Location: Northwest U.S.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
O
I personally have not changed any shim stacks on the later 2012-on forks, as the main problem with them is short stroke & stiff springs.
I haven't ridden a 2012 but the 2008 is extremely harsh backing off the COMP and Rebound completely helps but its still more abrupt than I would like.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:44 AM   #11066
MeinMotorrad
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Location: Between Velez Rubio and Huercal Overa, Spain.
Oddometer: 1,016
Quote:
Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post




When we pulled the fuel pump out today, the hose that connects to the end of the fuel filter is loose. I used the same hose that came with the CA Cycleworks fuel pump. It was in pink color in the box but it is now white. I used the 2 screw type clamps that came with the CA works pump. One clamp was used to secure the hose to the pump and the other to secure the other end of the hose to the fuel filter. I know that the OEM set up has 2 Oetiker clamps to secure the fuel filter. But the CA works hose is too big to use the OEM style Oetiker clamps.

Any suggestions ?
What year is your bike? I think the spec has changed from previous bikes at least for the '12. When I replaced the pump and filter the oetiker clamps on the original fuel line were 10.9mm. The clamps and hose that came with the CAC pump worked fine for attaching to the filter - did you tighten it all the way? Guess you'll have to go and find a new clamp of the right size.
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:16 AM   #11067
bayarearider
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
What year is your bike? I think the spec has changed from previous bikes at least for the '12. When I replaced the pump and filter the oetiker clamps on the original fuel line were 10.9mm. The clamps and hose that came with the CAC pump worked fine for attaching to the filter - did you tighten it all the way? Guess you'll have to go and find a new clamp of the right size.
Mine is a 2010. I have the right size Oetiker clamps. However the hose that came with the pump is not able to hold the pressure. So I am going to replace the hose and also do way with the flter inside the tank. Instead I am going to get a NAPA 3095 in-line fuel filter and relocate it on the outside in place of the QD on the fuel hose.
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:31 AM   #11068
Uller
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Location: Arlington, WA
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Here are a couple pics of the broken linkage from CordR 's bike. Appears to me to be the same failure as on Average Joe' s bike.

I also got to see the washout that caused it and am now even more concerned. I would think that an impact from going over a waterbar weirdly could cause this.

From the mobile...
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:32 AM   #11069
Bigbugberg
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Hose kink

Would a hose spring help/not help the fuel line from kinking in the tank? Basically wrap the fuel line in a spring to keep it from collapsing at the bend...
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:41 AM   #11070
Uller
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Location: Arlington, WA
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Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Thanks John Seems like we may need stronger ones?
By looking at Beaney's report from a year ago on this (what I copied above), it seems like we need more than just a stronger link. Looks like we also need a billet rocker assembly. He reported that it stretched and bound up the linkage too.

I received a picture of the Kouba Link and it appears to be much, much more robust in the area of failure that is shown above. (It also has a grease fitting to freshen up the bearing without disassembly) So, that is a good start. Now we just need the correct length dogbones for the standard ride height...





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