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Old 08-25-2013, 12:32 AM   #3751
MartinPetren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowie View Post
Sounds bad man! Could be a valve hitting the piston? Did you wind up the cam chain tensioner before installing it? The lines on the cam should be parallel with the surface of the head and the locating pin should be at 1 o'clock
I did not do anything with the tensioner to be honest. I thought it was set from before. Yes I did have the lines on the cam like that and I had the TDC "T" indicator in the inspection hole by the magnet cover. I even have a photo of it, from the wrong side , though. But you can see the pin at one o'clock.

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Old 08-25-2013, 02:03 AM   #3752
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When the tensioner is removed, it extends fully and locks in place. If it is not retracted, it puts way too much pressure onto the guide and chain when it is installed. The manual shows how to set it before installing. Still sounds like a valve contacting the piston, or the valve clearance it too large. Also, there is way, way too much sealant there. All that is needed is a paper thin smear. All of the excess that is squeezed inside will eventually fall off and could block oil passages, and possibly the oil feed to the left side cam journal.

Can't think of anything else that could be causing it?
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:46 AM   #3753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowie View Post
When the tensioner is removed, it extends fully and locks in place. If it is not retracted, it puts way too much pressure onto the guide and chain when it is installed. The manual shows how to set it before installing. Still sounds like a valve contacting the piston, or the valve clearance it too large. Also, there is way, way too much sealant there. All that is needed is a paper thin smear. All of the excess that is squeezed inside will eventually fall off and could block oil passages, and possibly the oil feed to the left side cam journal.

Can't think of anything else that could be causing it?
Alright, did not know that about the tensioner. I'm gonna open it again and re-check everything and also retract the tensioner. I did check the valves before closing it, they are in spec.

When deassembling it I noticed that the previous owner/mechanic had used a LOT of sealant, more than I have now, so I figured this old lady likes it that way. Will use less next time.

No I can't think of much more than all of this.. I'm still a bit confused. There's so few parts inside and I've gone through all of them in my head trying to figure out what's wrong.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:40 AM   #3754
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Quote:
I noticed that the previous owner/mechanic had used a LOT of sealant
That stuff is EVIL. And can be death to an engine since using so much causes it to ooze out into the inside of the engine. It breaks off...hardens and finds its way into small oil passages where it clogs things up. Check your upper end for evidence of poor oiling.

Remove all that sealant crap. Use Suzuki #1216 Silicone Sealant. It's expensive but one tube will last years.

Use a THIN coating with just a BB sized (or smaller) dab in the corner where the round came end cap meets the flat gasket surface.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:52 AM   #3755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
That stuff is EVIL. And can be death to an engine since using so much causes it to ooze out into the inside of the engine. It breaks off...hardens and finds its way into small oil passages where it clogs things up. Check your upper end for evidence of poor oiling.

Remove all that sealant crap. Use Suzuki #1216 Silicone Sealant. It's expensive but one tube will last years.

Use a THIN coating with just a BB sized (or smaller) dab in the corner where the round came end cap meets the flat gasket surface.
Will do that. Right now I am on holiday in Turkey and wont be back for a while :( whenever I have done these things I will post here and let you know if it worked.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:29 PM   #3756
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my new to me dr650

ok guys thanks in advance for lots of stupid questions about to come starting with how hard is it t get rid of the fairing on a 1990 rs model dr650 does it involve re mounting head light etc need less to say i hav.nt got my hands on it yet
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:48 PM   #3757
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Does anyone know if a 1994 DR650RE has compatible parts with the 96+ 650SE's?

I'm thinking about getting it but not sure if its worth it to buy something a bit newer.. I don't want this thing to break and no one has parts for it. I'm in Australia..

Made a thread about it here but didnt get much interest, topic is too obscure probably
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:39 AM   #3758
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The only compatible parts are the tyres, tubes, rims and handle bars OEM parts are still readily available, except for more obscure items. (decals, some plastic parts) You will find bugger all after market parts for the pre 96's, although some post 96 bits could be bodgied into place
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:14 PM   #3759
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[QUOTE=MartinPetren;22176077]Alright, did not know that about the tensioner. I'm gonna open it again and re-check everything and also retract the tensioner.

My tensioner seemed ok on my 1991 DR650 when I retracted it to replace the timing chain, but when re-installed and tensioned, it somehow got stuck and ruined my new head/piston/valves/summer.

Now I'm parting her out, selling all my DR spare parts, and switching to a much more common (Kawasaki) engine. (No, not a KLR!)

I'll start posting build pics when a stopping-point is reached.

Ad to sell all the DR parts and all the new spare parts I've collected: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...4#post22315414

Feel free to PM with any parts enquiries/requests.

Take care and good luck!
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:22 PM   #3760
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Will do that. Right now I am on holiday in Turkey and wont be back for a while :( whenever I have done these things I will post here and let you know if it worked.
Allright, I'm back now. Tomorrow I will try to get her running again. My current plan is to:

1. Remove and reassemble tensioner correctly. If this works I will only open the top and remove the sealant and use a proper amount for assembly. If issue remains;
2. Open top, put her in TDC, re-check that marks are aligned horisontally. If wrong, correct it. Then reassemble according to above. If issue remains;
3. Put it in a dumpster. Set fire to the dumpster, buy a KTM. If issue remains;
4. Cry :-)

Okay, I might not have a real step 3 and 4. Thoughts?

Oh and one last question. The manual states that when putting her in TDC, it should be on compression stroke. How to know if comp or de-comp(?) stroke?

Martin
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:59 PM   #3761
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As you rotate the crank, the exhaust valve will open as the piston comes up on the exhaust stoke, Continue to rotate, the exhaust will close and intake will open.

After the intake shuts that's the compression stroke. Look for the mark coming up as the intake is closing.
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:20 PM   #3762
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Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
As you rotate the crank, the exhaust valve will open as the piston comes up on the exhaust stoke, Continue to rotate, the exhaust will close and intake will open.

After the intake shuts that's the compression stroke. Look for the mark coming up as the intake is closing.
Allright. Thank you. I had the covers closed last time, might want to open them tomorrow then to see the valves in action.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:29 PM   #3763
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Or you can just pull the plug and put your finger over the hole. You'll feel the vacuum on the intake stroke and pressure on compression.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:58 AM   #3764
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Quick post.. It's alive! I have managed to do 55kms and it seems to work well. Will tell you everything tonight.

Edit:
I have difficulties to upload pictures at the moment. What I did today was to open the engine so I could inspect the cam. I placed the engine in TDC and when opened up I noticed it was almost horisontally, but not completely.

I disassembled the cam and cog so I could change the chain's placement one tooth. And voila! The marka became completely horisontal now. So I put on a very thin sealant this time and closed it. Then started on the first kick with no strange sounds. Rode around the block wearing the workshop clothes and with missing seat and side covers. Must have looked ridiculos but it was so enlightening to have it running again.

After have taken a longer ride tonight I remembered I have a TM40 pumper carb at home. Mounted it and now the bike wont start.....

What can be the problem? It doesn't fire at all. Anyone else that have the TM40 fitted?

It is jetted for a KTM 640.. So ought to be quite close at least.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:05 PM   #3765
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Curious what two pre-96 DR650 are worth.
A 1994, all original, beautiful condition, 17,000 miles.
VS
A 1995, painted all black, acerbis tank, supertrapp exhaust, aluminum panniers, 4,700 miles.

I'm interested in making an offer on one of these bikes and just wanted to know what a good value is for them. I know the 95 is worth more due to the addons, and lower mileage, but how much more? Also should I be at all worried about 17,000 miles? I need a vehicle RIGHT NOW to commute with.

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