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Old 09-17-2013, 11:47 AM   #9466
woofer2609
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Location: Extreme Pacific SouthWest (of Canada)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo3x View Post
Hello fellow XT 225 riders. repost for grammar correction.

I have been emailing someone on EBAY who presently can get XT225 TKRJ over size pistons up to 72mm.
These are the stock design with 9.5-1 compression .
A 72 mm piston would bring your engine size to approx
235cc. If enough interest is generated he will consider
getting the molds to build 73mm pistons (approx 241cc). This would be a benefit for Xt/TTR owners
(including myself) who would like a little performance boost and would like to be able to keep using there cylinders longer.

Below is copy and paste from his EBAY ad.

Yamaha XT-225 Piston Kit
WE ARE TESTING THE MARKET TO SEE HOW MANY OF THESE KITS WE SHOULD ORDER AT +2.00mm OVERSIZE
DO NOT BUY THIS ITEM UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO WAIT 3-4 WEEKS FOR DELIVERY
CONTACT SELLER FOR MORE INFORMATION
INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING AVAILABLE TO ANY COUNTRY
by TKRJ
Code: AY0888X
New and Complete Piston Kit
All Parts are sent from California, USA!
We send your order via USPS or FEDEX with a Signature Requested to Ensure that your order arrives safely!



I don't know if I could handle the power!
Just curious about possible cost and is one responsible to find their own rings?
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:42 PM   #9467
Tom S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
... I am still curious about wether the synthetic seeps past the rings easier resulting in oil consumption.
I know of no reason to believe that.
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:49 PM   #9468
Speedo66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
I hope this helps out some other rider at some point who is suddenly left without a speedometer.
I initially thought that my speedo cable was broken when I saw my speedo needle bounce around and then flatline at 0, (which happened when my speedo cable broke at 20,000km's) I ordered another one before investigating the root cause, so was rather surprised when I took off the old one to replace it and found that it was intact. I took the speedo drive off the hub, and immediately knew that something was off. It was a brown pasty slurry of water, dirt, and grease. Probably due to lots of riding in the rain, salted roads, and stuff like this:

Anyway, here is a photo of it after being cleaned out with compressed air, having the main shaft buffed, and the whole unit regreased. (I didn't get a "before" image. Just imagine it "dirtier")

You can see the top ring with 3 tabs. These make contact with the 3 tabs that are on the front wheel which subsequently drives the ring gear that turns the speedo cable. Make sure that the tabs are straight and haven't been bent. Mine were a little maligned. This 3 tabbed sprocket is held onto the housing shaft that the axle slides through by a circlip.
When the circlip and 3 tabbed sprocket are removed, you can see the ring gear and pinion that drives the speedo cable

The ring gear has 2 milled faces that the 3 tabbed sprocket mates with. When the 3 tabbed sprocket turns, it in turn turns the ring gear. Here are the two milled faces. Water contamination and surface rust is pretty evident. I was actually surprised it still mated with the pinion

I buffed the inside of the ring gear where it rotates on the shaft and liberally applied grease. This really smoothed out the operation! Here is a photo before slopping grease into the gears.

You can't see it here but there is a washer that slides over the shaft and sits between the ring gear and the housing body. Make sure this is where it sits, other wise your speedo will not work when you tighten your axle nut!
Mate the three tabbed sprocket with the ring gear, slide it over the shaft, and re-install the circlip.
Attach your speedo cable and try turning the three tabbed sprocket. It should easily rotate in the housing and you will see the speedo cable turning. I took the bike out for a spin and it works!
I love the fact that I could rebuild this unit and not have to replace it. This bike is just so durable, user serviceable, and more or less downright reliable that I don't think I will ever get rid of it. Parts costs seem reasonable, and with a few exceptions, it is assembled in a very logical manner.
The longer I have it, the more it reminds me of my 2004 2.3 liter, no air conditioning, 5spd manual Mazda b2300 with no power locks and roll up windows; There's not too much that can go wrong, and if it does, the average Joe/Jane with some mechanical aptitude can solve it. Sure it's not the fastest, prettiest, most capable tool, but with the right tires and operator it just works.
On the downside, I guess I have a spare speedo cable now
My speedometer stopped working after a 225 mile mostly dirt ride.

I checked the cable and it looked good. Then chucked it in a drill and reverse showed the speedometer itself was working fine.

Thanks to your post I took the wheel unit apart, tough to do without a pair of snap ring pliers. Same condition, loaded with brown crap. Cleaned it all out and checked the parts. The brass ring that engages the wheel was a little bent. Hammered it back to flat and threw some wheel bearing grease in there.

Your photo saved me, didn't remember the order things went back in, with the grease I couldn't see the flats on the gear and the brass ring.

It didn't seem like I did very much, but when reassembled, a quick run showed the speedometer was working again.

Thanks for your excellent write up and pictures!
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:19 PM   #9469
turbo3x
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oversize pistons

Pistons come with rings and will sell for around $100.00
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:08 AM   #9470
KamperBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo3x View Post
Pistons come with rings and will sell for around $100.00
I'm curious about the jug over bore side of this mod. What's the skinny on that? :b
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:25 AM   #9471
GlennR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KamperBob View Post
I'm curious about the jug over bore side of this mod. What's the skinny on that? :b

I was wondering the same thing. What's it cost of get it bored & re- Nicosil coated?
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:13 PM   #9472
turbo3x
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over bore

If you have an older machine with steel liner it's possible to get a maximum over bore to 73mm (241cc).
It requires a good machine shop that can keep the bore
centered.
If you have plated cylinders - I don't have any info for that.
I have purchased Yamaha ATV steel lined cylinders on Ebay for as little as $25. shipped. Some models are
stock 70mm and later models stock 71mm

Presently you can get special ordered 72mm from TKRJ Piston Company in Japan. It does require some language translation to order. (they also make .25mm - .50mm - .75mm and 1.0 starting from std 70mm)
I am presently communicating with an Ebay seller/TKRJ dealer to stock the 72mm size.

Presently I am unaware of anyone making any piston over 71 mm that aren't the lower 8.7-1 dish dome style.

I'm slow on the keyboard but will gladly try to answer any other inquiries .


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Old 09-18-2013, 03:24 PM   #9473
deodom
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Re Nicasil option

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
I was wondering the same thing. What's it cost of get it bored & re- Nicosil coated?
Here is one option. Check out their site and call them with any questions:
http://www.usnicom.com/price.asp
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:35 PM   #9474
woofer2609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom S View Post
I know of no reason to believe that.
I was curious in this application (air cooled higher mileage engine) because synthetic has a much lower viscosity (flow rate?) at start up temperatures I thought it might be seeping past the rings until operating temperature is reached, leading to increased consumption. I am definitely using oil between changes. I really do notice the improved mileage and much easier cold starts w/ synthetic, however. I'm still trying to understand this synthetic thing, but may switch back to see if it indeed the oil, or this engine is getting tired. (not worried too much now that there is talk of oversized pistons, however!)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
My speedometer stopped working after a 225 mile mostly dirt ride.

I checked the cable and it looked good. Then chucked it in a drill and reverse showed the speedometer itself was working fine.

Thanks to your post I took the wheel unit apart, tough to do without a pair of snap ring pliers. Same condition, loaded with brown crap. Cleaned it all out and checked the parts. The brass ring that engages the wheel was a little bent. Hammered it back to flat and threw some wheel bearing grease in there.

Your photo saved me, didn't remember the order things went back in, with the grease I couldn't see the flats on the gear and the brass ring.

It didn't seem like I did very much, but when reassembled, a quick run showed the speedometer was working again.

Thanks for your excellent write up and pictures!
Glad to help! I did have to take it apart one more time to reshape the 3 pronged "thingy", but that really did the trick.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:39 PM   #9475
Tom S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
...because synthetic has a much lower viscosity (flow rate?) at start up temperatures ...
No, if it is, say, 10/40, it's 10/40. Whether its synthetic or 'dyno' oil the viscosity is the same.
It's just that synthetic doesn't flow like molasses when it's real cold. That's real important up here.
Been using synthetic for many, many years in cars & bikes. Only way to go as far as I am concerned.
Never noticed any difference in gas mileage or anything else.
You say your bike has high miles? I think maybe it's just starting to use oil.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:46 AM   #9476
Speedo66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post

Glad to help! I did have to take it apart one more time to reshape the 3 pronged "thingy", but that really did the trick.
Yeah, the flats on that 3 prong piece that engage the gear are pretty worn, don't know why they used a soft metal like brass for that application. Lots of play there. I have a feeling it's going to go again soon, may have to file new flats in it.

My last set of snap ring pliers were 30 year old J.C Whitney crap, which I threw away last year. I'm hesitating buying some from Harbor Freight for the same reason.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:07 AM   #9477
woofer2609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
Yeah, the flats on that 3 prong piece that engage the gear are pretty worn, don't know why they used a soft metal like brass for that application. Lots of play there. I have a feeling it's going to go again soon, may have to file new flats in it.

My last set of snap ring pliers were 30 year old J.C Whitney crap, which I threw away last year. I'm hesitating buying some from Harbor Freight for the same reason.
That's what I noticed when I took out my 3 pronged thingy the second time, the flats had started to round out. I squeezed it in a vice and it really helped correct the shape. It seems to mate up properly now. I think the reason they went with the cheap soft steel is that it's cheap, and the second thing is it is the sacrificial lamb; it will bend before something else breaks, such as the speedo cable. Just my thoughts.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:19 AM   #9478
Reposado1800
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Location: 5th and Main
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Anybody else snapping Buchanan oversize spokes? I have had to replace 2 so far and it has been only street riding. It is a pain because I have to pull the tire to get at the nipple properly.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:43 AM   #9479
Dirt2Street
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelHorse View Post
Use a Uni brand filter. I just got one and removed my snorkel. A decent difference in throttle response I noticed on mine with the good air flow.

I heard K&Ns are a no go as they are crap (so ive heard) But the Uni does great, and on the plus side they are alot cheaper than K&Ns.
Where can I find filters?
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:24 AM   #9480
dav_dman
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Location: louisville ky/southere indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt2Street View Post
Where can I find filters?
+1 FTW on the Uni's...awesome filters and cheap.
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