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Old 08-19-2013, 04:22 PM   #31
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:10 PM   #32
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I was just stirring the shit.

I like Canons instead of Nikons.




Ban the naysayer!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:28 PM   #33
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You wound me, sir.



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Old 08-19-2013, 09:57 PM   #34
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Got permission, so here's an ISO 6,400 video....so yeah there is grain but even with a crop camera F1.8 makes for a nice thin DOF:



(the hiccup in the video is smugmug's fault the original doesn't have it)
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:46 PM   #35
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And an image test, this one is at ISO 3,200 and has been processed in lightroom for B&W but nothing fancy, just and a tiny bit of noise reduction in lightroom 4.



Here's a 100% crop to show the noise level/detail that's left.



You can see how small of an area that is of the total photo so in any web photos you wont notice it at all, and in prints you wont unless they're pretty large.

And an ISO 6,400:



100%:



ISO 12,800:



100%:


Also those last 2 were in much harder lighting conditions, I was at F1.8 for both and had to bring them up a bit so you can get a good bit less noise for those values.....but as you can see even with it thanks to all the resolution it's still not too bad.

Edit: Since then I've shot it at high ISO conditions where I can get proper exposures so I didn't have to push them like above:

ISO 12,800:



ISO 6,400:

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Old 10-04-2013, 12:32 PM   #36
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Finally used it in the studio with some models....can't post the pics right now (gotta ask permission) but what I can tell anyone looking for a camera is HOLY SHIT. Put some good glass in front of this sensor and you will be blown away at the detail. I'm sure the D600 is better in low light but I continue to be blown away by this camera.

Insane detail, 24 MP without the AA filter is , dynamic range better than my Fuji S5 which is very well known for that, and high ISO performance up there with my D700.

I could gush some more but seriously all this and refurbs are 900 bucks now it's one serious photographic tool
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:53 AM   #37
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Finally used it in the studio with some models....can't post the pics right now (gotta ask permission) but what I can tell anyone looking for a camera is HOLY SHIT. Put some good glass in front of this sensor and you will be blown away at the detail. I'm sure the D600 is better in low light but I continue to be blown away by this camera.

Insane detail, 24 MP without the AA filter is , dynamic range better than my Fuji S5 which is very well known for that, and high ISO performance up there with my D700.

I could gush some more but seriously all this and refurbs are 900 bucks now it's one serious photographic tool

Do you still feel this way about the D7100 ? Bodies on sale for $999 right now.

Was thinking about using a AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR lens with it for general use.

And, my 28mm 2.8D and 50mm 1.8D for low light and portrait type shots.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:28 AM   #38
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Do you still feel this way about the D7100 ? Bodies on sale for $999 right now.

Was thinking about using a AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR lens with it for general use.

And, my 28mm 2.8D and 50mm 1.8D for low light and portrait type shots.
Yes about the camera, it's still my go to over the D700 for most cases (The D700 is only when I need razon thin depth of field, or low light ultra wide angle shots since I have a F2.8 FX and F4 DX lens in that class), but I have mixed feeling about that lens. I was writing up my own review by DPReview's covered it all and went into some more detail so I'll C&P:

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The Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-300mm F3.5-5.6G ED VR is the most extreme superzoom lens for DX-format SLRs we've seen yet - not only in terms of focal length range, but also size, weight and price. That 300mm F5.6 long end inevitably results in a heavy, bulky lens, and the 18-300mm is substantially larger than its closest third-party competitors, the Sigma 18-250mm F3.5-6.5 DC Macro OS HSM and Tamron 18-270mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD. It's notably more expensive too - indeed in some markets it's almost twice the price.

The 18-300mm does have its strong points for the money. Aside from its sheer range, it focuses quickly and positively, handles pretty well on the camera, and is well-made for its class (including a seal around the lens mount). It's also pretty good for close-up shooting, offering decent magnification and a long enough working distance that you shouldn't struggle to light your subject.

Optically the 18-300mm is fairly typical for its type, which is to say plenty of compromises come with its huge range. Sharpness is something of a mixed bag - as usual for a superzoom it's best towards the wide end, but the corners of the frame tend to look a bit soft at all settings. The lens isn't very sharp at all wide open at telephoto; but, to be fair, it holds up better into the mid-telephoto range (~100mm) than other superzooms. Vignetting is very visible wide open at 18mm, and distortion pronounced at all focal lengths - barrel at wideangle, and pincushion across the rest of the range.

Our biggest concern about the 18-300mm, though, is its performance at the telephoto end. In practical use, chances are you'll be shooting at maximum aperture much of the time, and relying on the lens's VR system to keep things steady. But image quality at telephoto isn't great especially wide open, and this is compounded by a VR system that we've found to fail consistently across a specific shutter speed range (approx 1/125 - 1/40 sec). The D3200 we used for testing also frequently misfocused slightly when shooting at telephoto. This means that we often found real-world results at to be disappointing in the telephoto range - and especially at 300mm.

Compared to its most-obvious competitors, the Sigma 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DC Macro OS HSM and Tamron 18-270mm F3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD, the Nikon comes out on top optically, mainly by virtue of performing a bit better at telephoto. It also focuses fastest of the three, but is (surprisingly) let down by its stabilization system. Obviously it offers the longest telephoto range, and that's not to be dismissed lightly, but the other two lenses are substantially smaller and lighter, which we think better fits the ethos of the 'all-in-one' travel lens.
http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/...m-3p5-5p6-vr/5

It's tough to give advice on this one with all the possible advantages/trade offs all coming down to personal preference but since this is a pretty expensive purchase that will likely last you for years and years to come what I'd do is buy the body and then rent some lenses. First spend a little time shooting with your 2 primes just to get a general feel for the camera so learning those basics/setting it up doesn't get in your way and then if you go to borrow lenses (http://www.borrowlenses.com/) you can rent the 17-55 F2.8 and 18-300 for 3 days on a long weekend for 110 bucks including insurance and everything plus I bet with some digging there are some coupons out there especially for a first time customer.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:53 AM   #39
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Yup! They make a great combo, the D7100 is a good bit lighter and with crop lenses it helps even more. Plus the D700 still handles bright red lights better, and there's that razor thin DOF from FF.

With video you see the shake I deal with a lot I'm going to ask the band and just make sure it's cool to post that video. It's high ISO @ 6400 so you'll see grain but also the nice effects from a F1.8 lens. The shots I have from that night I can post for sure when they're done (they're going on my public page already), this was a trial by fire since I didn't bring the D700 and many shots were ISO 12,800.

The great news for anyone with iffy hands is that extra reach! Instead of my 70-210 F4 I was able to use my 28-75 F2.8, I know I mentioned the lightness before but it's worth saying again

Finally for the buffer with a step below top of the line card (Sandisk Extreme 80 mb/s, the extreme pro os 95 mb/s) I didn't notice any real problems.

Edit: For low ISO samples I'm doing a studio product shoot whenever my wireless trigger comes in (no PC sync port on the 7100 has me finally getting away from that annoying wire!) so I know this is a dangerous question here on ADV but any ideas for what I should take pics of for samples?
Just a quick correction here as I look back at my older posts, it must have been a really bad one off situation I shot the D7100 with because I've learned it actually is the superior camera with red/purple light. The D700 will blow out a lot sooner especially at higher ISO's making images near useless in some situations while the D7100's sensor retains some tonality.
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Old 02-27-2015, 05:54 PM   #40
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New D7100 body, Used 17-55mm f2.8 lens, B+W 77mm UV Haze filter...

...in the mail. On the way...

Will report back after I get it all up and running next week...

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Old 02-27-2015, 06:11 PM   #41
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New D7100 body, Used 17-55mm f2.8 lens, B+W 77mm UV Haze filter...

...in the mail. On the way...

Will report back after I get it all up and running next week...

Shit-can the filter, have fun.
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:24 PM   #42
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Dumb question, perhaps, but don't we need something in front of the lens to protect it? I thought that was why we bought filters in the first place...
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:33 PM   #43
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Dumb question, perhaps, but don't we need something in front of the lens to protect it? I thought that was why we bought filters in the first place...
Yep. I'm not going to risk a $1500 lens ($700 used, but still!). The B+H filter is expensive ($60), but cheaper than replacing the lens.

In controlled conditions, I don't use UV filters, but for everyday carry, I always have one on the lens.

Since I'll be carrying this camera around on horses and motorcycles and out hiking, it will wear a filter most of the time.
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:02 PM   #44
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Subject drift... this has nothing to do with the D7100 or even Nikon gear...

Depending upon lighting conditions a filter can have a drastic negative impact on the image. See http://eyvindness.zenfolio.com/p897234436 for examples.

I keep a filter on my lens for storage. I remove the filter with the lens cap unless I'm in wet or dusty conditions or I'm replacing it with a circular polarizer or ND filter. The lens hood goes on when the filter/lens cap comes off. The lens hood protects the front of the lens just fine.

For the "got to protect a $$$$ lens" folks. What is the point of buying a $$$$ lens then using a filter which can make the images look no better than those you'd get with a $ lens? Plus, replacing the front element of that $$$$ lens is often not much more than the cost of a high end filter.
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:21 PM   #45
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Yep. I'm not going to risk a $1500 lens ($700 used, but still!). The B+H filter is expensive ($60), but cheaper than replacing the lens.

In controlled conditions, I don't use UV filters, but for everyday carry, I always have one on the lens.

Since I'll be carrying this camera around on horses and motorcycles and out hiking, it will wear a filter most of the time.


If you get a nice lens like that buy a nice filter and at 60 bucks you did. I've saved 2 lenses due to UV's so I always have them on.

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Subject drift... this has nothing to do with the D7100 or even Nikon gear...

Depending upon lighting conditions a filter can have a drastic negative impact on the image. See http://eyvindness.zenfolio.com/p897234436 for examples.

I keep a filter on my lens for storage. I remove the filter with the lens cap unless I'm in wet or dusty conditions or I'm replacing it with a circular polarizer or ND filter. The lens hood goes on when the filter/lens cap comes off. The lens hood protects the front of the lens just fine.

For the "got to protect a $$$$ lens" folks. What is the point of buying a $$$$ lens then using a filter which can make the images look no better than those you'd get with a $ lens? Plus, replacing the front element of that $$$$ lens is often not much more than the cost of a high end filter.
That's why you get a good filter and a $$$$ lens even with the cheapest UV you can buy will still look a lot better than a $ lens, though it wont be at its full potential. I doubt replacing a front element is that cheap but there's also the time/hassle issue, if a filter gets smudged, scratched, or cracked during a shoot I can take it off and I'm good to go. If that happens to the lens it's out of commission potentially screwing me.
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