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Old 10-04-2013, 06:15 PM   #11326
gen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13x View Post
Does a 2012 SMC R triple tress serve any purpose if I fit it on E R, well other then blink factor.
The offset is different because the forks are different. I think the steering will be sharper- you may or may not want that.

Also if you are running any steering damper, I have been told that it not work on the SMC triple trees. I'd love to know whether it does or not.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:57 PM   #11327
Gros Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
All of the links shown so far with the exception of the Kouba Link are cast units ...
Problem is we do not know what alloy they are using.

You can easily triple the strength of a part with an appropriate alloy. Pretty easy to jump from 25,000 to 75,000 psi (707x T6) with an appropriated selection.

Drop forging will add up to 15% and extra life.

Heat treatment is critical to many aluminium alloy.

Paul Jr
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:06 AM   #11328
MeinMotorrad
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Location: Faro, Portugal, for a couple of weeks.
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Thanks for all the advice guys.

I've been trying to get in touch with the nearest KTM dealer who is in a place called Boe, about a 60km ride from me, but no luck so far. Maybe Google translate isn't so great - pas de fumée française.

Wheels: Anybody tried these. I'm wondering if they're stronger. I've seen some Excel wheels (Wheels with hubs machined the lightest on the market. Wheel with strapping, hub and spokes. - That's the google translation), for 369 Euros but I don't know anything about them. Will I have to get bearings also? I've never bought a new wheel before.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:39 AM   #11329
ramjet
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Location: Super F'd Up N. California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
?..
Wheels: Anybody tried these. I'm wondering if they're stronger. I've seen some [URL="http://www.shopktm.fr/produit.asp?Lng=5&NuC=7&DoC=ktm&Prod=921&NProd=Ktm-Roue-avant-Excel-noire"][COLOR
If that is the ST-X, that is the one I have. I replaced the OEM 1.85 with the DID ST-X 1.6. Used same tire as OEM. I just bought the rim and used existing spokes and hub and relaced.

http://www.didchain.com/LXSXDirtstar.html
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:45 AM   #11330
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
Thanks for all the advice guys.

I've been trying to get in touch with the nearest KTM dealer who is in a place called Boe, about a 60km ride from me, but no luck so far. Maybe Google translate isn't so great - pas de fumée française.

Wheels: Anybody tried these. I'm wondering if they're stronger. I've seen some Excel wheels (Wheels with hubs machined the lightest on the market. Wheel with strapping, hub and spokes. - That's the google translation), for 369 Euros but I don't know anything about them. Will I have to get bearings also? I've never bought a new wheel before.
The stock rims are 36 spoke rather than 32 spoke, so if you are re-using the original hub, you need a 36 spoke rim. If you are using a complete wheel, then the number of spokes is less of an issue. You need only be concerned about axle diameter, hub width, spacers, and rotor mount.
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:39 AM   #11331
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
Problem is we do not know what alloy they are using.

You can easily triple the strength of a part with an appropriate alloy. Pretty easy to jump from 25,000 to 75,000 psi (707x T6) with an appropriated selection.

Drop forging will add up to 15% and extra life.

Heat treatment is critical to many aluminium alloy.

Paul Jr
Yes a good point. We have a tool in the lab at work that will tell the material makeup. Might be able to sneak a piece in
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:58 PM   #11332
kito
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Hi I'm on the lookout for a new bike and at the moment it looks like the 690 with RR evo 2 tanks is at the top of the list. I will be buying secondhand so are the any year models I should avoid or be looking out for ? I see a lot of you guys are changing your exhaust. Is this just to get away from the CAT ? If so has anyone removed the CAT from the OE and welded it back up ? (I did this on my x challenge and it worked great) if I did this would the bike need to be remapped ? ( on my BMW it never) . Are the any known faults I should be looking out for when going to see 690 ? What are they like to work on ? Iv never had a KTM so it's all new to me.
Sorry for so many questions
Thanks kito
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Old 10-05-2013, 02:40 PM   #11333
Hank.SD
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Just took my new to me 08 out for a shakedown run. Holy crap that's fun. One problem is a leaky gas cap. Maybe its all the wheelies

What is the best solution for that?
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:09 PM   #11334
Assfault
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank.SD View Post
Just took my new to me 08 out for a shakedown run. Holy crap that's fun. One problem is a leaky gas cap. Maybe its all the wheelies

What is the best solution for that?
Buy a KLR if you need a solution for the wheelies.
Rally Raid & KTM Twins has a solution for the fuel cap.
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:22 PM   #11335
Hank.SD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assfault View Post
Buy a KLR if you need a solution for the wheelies.
Rally Raid & KTM Twins has a solution for the fuel cap.
I've owned a couple KLRs.. I don't think I'll be revisiting that any time soon. This thing is fun!
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:34 PM   #11336
v8toilet
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Location: Northwest U.S.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kito View Post
Hi I'm on the lookout for a new bike and at the moment it looks like the 690 with RR evo 2 tanks is at the top of the list. I will be buying secondhand so are the any year models I should avoid or be looking out for ? I see a lot of you guys are changing your exhaust. Is this just to get away from the CAT ? If so has anyone removed the CAT from the OE and welded it back up ? (I did this on my x challenge and it worked great) if I did this would the bike need to be remapped ? ( on my BMW it never) . Are the any known faults I should be looking out for when going to see 690 ? What are they like to work on ? Iv never had a KTM so it's all new to me.
Sorry for so many questions
Thanks kito
The main reason for exhaust swap is that the stock boat anchor gets so hot it's regularly referred to as nuclear. It's not safe and it's heavy.
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:06 PM   #11337
dirty_sanchez
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Get a real 690CC bike, swap the can and swap the pleated filter for the UNI twin pod and you'll be ace!

No need to bother with a remap. It'll run like a scalded ape just the way it is.

Dirty
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:12 PM   #11338
kito
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8toilet View Post
The main reason for exhaust swap is that the stock boat anchor gets so hot it's regularly referred to as nuclear. It's not safe and it's heavy.
Yer that's what was what was happening on my x challenge. But I'm cheep so just removed about 1KG of unwanted crap from inside the exhaust and it then ran a lot cooler.
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:34 PM   #11339
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kito View Post
Yer that's what was what was happening on my x challenge. But I'm cheep so just removed about 1KG of unwanted crap from inside the exhaust and it then ran a lot cooler.
The 690 is a thing of beauty. She is like a fine whiskey.. you don't mix her with diet coke. Wings and FMF both make beautiful looking and sounding high quality exhaust for not a lot of money. Call it your birthday present to yourself or something. I promise you will be happier then bastardizing the stock can for the sake of saving a few bucks.
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:18 PM   #11340
Roadracer_Al
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gen View Post
Big sharp hits like that can damage steering head bearings, so try to get the front wheel off the ground and check for any notches or clicks or play in the steering.

Also your forks may be out of alignment. If you know how to check this you should or have the dealer check.
I have a piece of thickish plate glass which I keep specifically to align forks. You'll have to disassemble the plastic slider guards and remove the front wheel.

While you have the axle out, spin the inner/male tubes around inside the female uppers. The inner parts should spin perfectly on their own axis. If they describe a "cone" when rotated (i.e. the ends swing around as you rotate them) then they are bent.

To perfectly align the forks, lay the plate glass across the exposed inner slider and check the tubes for parallelism: if the plate glass rocks corner-to-corner, then the tubes aren't parallel.

Loosen the bottom triple clamp pinch bolts, and slightly loosen (leave snug but not tight) the top pinch bolts. Adjust the alignment buy turning the bars to the steering stop and giving the top clamp a tap with the rubber mallet. Tighten the bots and recheck with the plate glass.

I invented this process, and it has impressed some suspension tuners with the ease and accuracy of adjustment. Of course, you need to buy a piece of glass, which is a slight PITA. You may refer to it as The Roadracer Al Procedure.
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