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Old 10-02-2013, 07:31 PM   #76
ben2go OP
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 3,130
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXF View Post
I used to own a v star 650, great machine they are. From one of the dedicated v star 650 forum I learned to cut open up the air intake to make it breath better. Also mounted a pelican case on it and it looks great. Too bad I sold it and still misses it to this day...
Yeah that is called a RAK where you cut open the intake duct on back forward edge of the filter housing.I am planning to cut, gut,and re-baffle my stock exhaust and install the DIY hurricane kit.Jetting is gonna be fun. I only use Mikuni jets.I don't buy those kits.I have had better luck with OE jets.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:36 PM   #77
ben2go OP
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 3,130
Finished up the rear wheel/tire install.The trade off for having less service with a shaft drive equals more service when the rear wheel needs to be removed.I am using balance beads for the first time.I have 2 ounces of stainless steel beads in the rear tube.I'll do the same for the front.That brings me to my to do list.

Replace front tire,tube,and rim strip.
Replace front brake pads.
Replace front brake line with SS.
Bleed brakes forever.
Finish rear 3 way signal light conversion.
Install GPS handle bar mount and case.
Install GPS.
Ride it like I stole it.


Be fore warned,SWMBO got involved.Alas,action shots.

I was cleaning and greasing the drive shaft and final drive hub for install.
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I have to inquire about this seal.I know it's just a dust seal and it's facing directly into the wind.
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Fat boy on the ground blocking up the motorcycle.
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Shinko 230 Tour Master 180/70-15.
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Tomorrow,I start the front.I have been so busy since I started this over a month ago,that I plan to make the most of my only day to work on it.Hopefully I'll have a good post er two tomorrow night.
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:18 PM   #78
GSXF
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Location: NY
Oddometer: 190
Since the v star are shaft drive, I always wonder would a road side repair or tire change be difficult? I have no clue as I had yet change the tires back when I had the 650.
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:31 PM   #79
ben2go OP
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Location: Upstate SC USA
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Originally Posted by GSXF View Post
Since the v star are shaft drive, I always wonder would a road side repair or tire change be difficult? I have no clue as I had yet change the tires back when I had the 650.
Yes and no.No center stand and low frame height plus the long reach kick stand would make it difficult to remove.The install would take a little longer because the rear fender has to be loosened and hinged up to remove the wheel.The drive shaft slides in and out so no big deal there.Getting it back together is easier with 4 hands,but still not difficult by one person.Just takes some muscle.The final drive and rear axle need to be torqued to spec to keep the final drive from eating itself.It's good to clean and grease the splines on everything to keep them from corroding and/or wearing out to quick.I am planning to try and fab one of those triangle stands that acts like a center stand and breaks down to pack away.We shall see what I come up with.
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:13 AM   #80
Sharkguy
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Location: Ocoee, FL (downtown BFE)
Oddometer: 188
Good to see you are doing the spline lube. Did you do the back spline as well or just the front ones? Doing the back ones are important.
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:36 AM   #81
ben2go OP
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Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 3,130
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Originally Posted by Sharkguy View Post
Good to see you are doing the spline lube. Did you do the back spline as well or just the front ones? Doing the back ones are important.
The final drive was rebuilt under warranty by the first owner and the shaft was replaced with a chrome one from another model.The drive exploded again and was completely replaced spring of 2012,but they kept the chrome shaft.The housing was packed with moly grease and a new seal,so I left it alone.How do I know this?The PO I bought the bike from didn't know about the side cover storage area.I found the receipts and notes in there along with a brand new tool pouch and tools.When I replace that bad seal,I will be doing a complete strip and clean with fresh grease.Not much riding left for me this year,so it will be a winter project in a about a month.
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:22 PM   #82
windmill
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Location: Kent, Washington State
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I went with the same tires, excellent considering the price, and wonderful in the wet.
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:40 PM   #83
ben2go OP
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Location: Upstate SC USA
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I went with the same tires, excellent considering the price, and wonderful in the wet.
I have been doing a lot of wet riding this year since we have pretty much drown through most of it.I had read and heard go things about mileage and wet traction so I bought them.I can't afford any high quality tires and my Shinko Advanced 005 have been great so I went for it again.

I am eating dinner.I will be posting today's work load in a little while if the puter is still free.
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:28 PM   #84
ben2go OP
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Location: Upstate SC USA
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Ok din din is in.

Today I got the front tire installed,front brakes installed,front ss brake line installed.None of these things were difficult,just time consuming.I cleaned greased/lubed everything that required it and made sure everything was properly torqued and routed.My oldest son came over for a while today,so I took a little break to visit with him.

Bike up, wheel off.Lets do this.



Breaking bead.


Set up to run the tire beads off.


Preping to pour in the balancing beads.


Finished wheel.I get into it and forget to take pics.The rotor looks grooved but it's not.



Installed the SS brake line and HH pads.Here's a tip,remove the windsheild/screen before replacing the brake line.It makes it sooooo much easier.


Wheel on and front end buttoned up.


She's a roller.




Next up,
Bleed front brake.
Install carbs,airbox,fuel tank,and dash.
Reassemble and install rear fender and seats.
Wire in relay pack for 3 way rear signal conversion.
Install upgraded regulator rectifier.
Reinstall side cover and sync/balance carbs.
Test ride.

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Old 10-05-2013, 07:02 PM   #85
windmill
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Kent, Washington State
Oddometer: 4,084
I'm curious to see what bags you end up with, I got the generic Matazu LN off of ebay for $60, looking at trunks too. Was going to do running lights like yours, but after pricing out everything, I ended up getting some OE Star Passing lamps off of ebay for less money.

Had a screen like yours that got trashed when I went down, decided to give the Memphis Shades batwing a try this time around. More than I wanted to spend, but my Urals full coverage shield and leg guards have spoiled me for winter riding.
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:13 PM   #86
ben2go OP
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Location: Upstate SC USA
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Originally Posted by windmill View Post
I'm curious to see what bags you end up with, I got the generic Matazu LN off of ebay for $60, looking at trunks too. Was going to do running lights like yours, but after pricing out everything, I ended up getting some OE Star Passing lamps off of ebay for less money.

Had a screen like yours that got trashed when I went down, decided to give the Memphis Shades batwing a try this time around. More than I wanted to spend, but my Urals full coverage shield and leg guards have spoiled me for winter riding.
Here is my around town bags.The PO had them on backwards.This was a pic as soon as I got it home.Another ADV'er has a set of Matzu side opening hard bags with lights,anda Kuryakyn waterproof sissy bar bag with cover he is trying to get me to buy.I gotta recover from this round and get ready for Xmas.

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Old 10-06-2013, 04:17 PM   #87
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I got a little more done today.Still not ready to ride.finishing up this week isn't looking good either.We're expecting rain,I have physical therapy all week,and I am on kiddie duty in the afternoons.Anyway,here's what I got done today.

Got the carbs and air box on.Everything is hooked up,just need a sync/balance when I get'er done.Yes,I went there.


I assembled the fender and got it ready to go on.


Fender on.


Reinstalled the sissy bar.


Relocated turn signal relay.This will make sense in a minute.Bare with me.
Stock position,inside rear battery box.


New location,front of battery box.


The new location for the relay pack for the 3 way turn signal conversion.It will occupy the spot voided by the turn signal relay.


Pulled the fuse block and wiring out to tap into it for the 3 way turn signal conversion.


Got my relay block wired as far as I could before I had to quit for the evening.



I still need to finish these,
Finish wiring in the relay block.
Bleed front brake.
Sync/balance carbs.
Reinstall fuel tank and dash.
Test ride.
Install GPS mount/case,clock,and new add on tach when it gets here.

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Old 10-08-2013, 09:08 AM   #88
ben2go OP
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Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 3,130
Talking Tach is here!Whooo hoooo!

The weather is cold and very windy today,so I will be stuck inside.The wind is just to much and I have to much crap stuffed inside my building to work in there.

In other news.I received a payment through paypal, so I bought an aftermarket tachometer.The V Star 650 doesn't have a tach from the factory.Cost,$64 delivered.I got it today while I was at physical therapy.It's a knock off of Drag Specialties white face V twin Harley Davidson tach.I am glad I haven't put the tank back on yet.I'll need to get in there to wire this puppy up.It looks quality considering it's a cheapo.I am also considering a different mount that would put the tach in the center and just above the handle bar risers.

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Old 10-11-2013, 06:53 PM   #89
ben2go OP
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Location: Upstate SC USA
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I finished up the 3 way signal conversion and installed the new tach.The tach was a breeze to install.I got a 20 mile test ride in also.

Everything installed and wired up.Just need to mount the relays and tidy up.
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Relays mounted.
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Center relay installed and fuse holder tucked in.
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Tidied up and ready for the side cover.I payed attention and got this right without having to keep redoing everything.
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My thoughts on the 3 way conversion.I should have bought color coded wiring and wired the relay pack on the bench.I used an old hacked up GS500 harness to get colored wire from that matches the bikes wiring as close as possible.The relay pack presents a small electrical load on the bikes original flasher relay.The wee star uses a special relay that is different from any other bike I have seen.So I will need to add resistors to the relay.There is a write up on this and it can be found here.I can also eliminate the wee star flasher relay and install an elcheapo electronic flasher relay like detailed here.I may go with option number two,because I am used to manually shutting the signals off.Opposable thumbs,what an evolutionary invention.

Stay tuned.I am about to post up the tach install.Not step by step,but close.
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Old 10-11-2013, 06:54 PM   #90
ben2go OP
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Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 3,130
The tach is fairly simple to install on the wee star.

Find a place to mount it.Hummmm,this spot looks good and I can mount my charging station next to it.
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FYI,this is the proper way to mount these tachs.I started to mount mine on the bottom of the clamp for a more recessed look.
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Ran my wiring.Looks fairly factory.
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Connectors installed.Be aware that the wires come pre-tinned.I cut that off so I could crimp and solder my own connections cleanly.
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I found it best to wire everything directly to the front (#1) cylinder coil.The tach wiring is perfect length for this.Had to remove the airbox,,,,,again.
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To connect the tach wiring in conjunction with the coil wiring,I had to buy these quick disconnect adapters.They are also known as .250 piggyback connectors.
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Out of the 8,I used these two.
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Those connectors present one tiny problem.The negative side of the coil uses a .190 female spade connector.No problem.Replace the .190 with a .250
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Now connect everything.I started with the ground wire.Bolted down with the coil screw.
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This is how the connectors go together before connecting them to the coil.
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Everything is all connected to the coil.Notice how the clear factory connector covers protect the connectors.Sweet.
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All done.Time to reassemble and test.When the tach comes on,it resets itself and zeros out.Here it is idling and it's damn near spot on.I was very surprised.It also has very little needle shake,another happy surprise.It's within 50rpm of being spot on accurate.
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I got out my receipts.I have exactly $65 total in the tach and connectors.I just hope the tach lasts a few years.We shall see.

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