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Old 10-11-2013, 09:33 AM   #4381
vintagespeed
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Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
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my wife started giving me that look....you know the one, the "are you fucking serious?" look.

that's how i knew i was gettin in deep.



but i think the juice was worth the squeeze.



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TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:49 PM   #4382
jlpred
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No worries vintage, google found this bit of CEV info:

Headlight switch: 50311070100
Adapter bracket: 13011070060
Flasher switch: 50311029000
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Old 10-11-2013, 03:08 PM   #4383
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdirtbikerider View Post
...How do you remove the seal without damage?
i read a tech report somewhere that said you can blow out the outer seal with compressed air through the weep hole.

here ya go:
http://ridedualsport.com/forum/index.php?topic=2658.0

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530EXCR and a bunch of 2 strokes that you dont want to read about. :)

TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:35 PM   #4384
mrdirtbikerider
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Thanks vintage , for the water pump link. Very helpfull.
Outer seal had a bunch of sand behind it from the weep hole.
I think I will replace the back seal also.
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:56 AM   #4385
loph917
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Location: state of pain and confusion
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watching a little rain shower in the distance...while sipping on this 'berg riders preferred hydration solution.


long way down.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:28 PM   #4386
vintagespeed
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Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
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it's o' beer thirtay!

wrapped the harness in an old tube
cleaned the injector & TB
added the CanAm fuel filter
removed O2 sensor
added KTM headlight (soon to be LED...)
removed the old kill switch & added the CEV switch

i'm loving working on the Berg. all those comments i read about them being "difficult" and "awkward" to work on were totally misleading. every wire connector was in place, the proper length and ready to connect up, plug & play.

i can't wait to get this thing in the dirt!

next up will be the low fuel sender, brake lights, UHD tube in the rear, remove the Tubliss front (soon for sale), install some black hoops, cush hub and a safari tank.
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530EXCR and a bunch of 2 strokes that you dont want to read about. :)

TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:00 PM   #4387
rensho
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Location: SJ,CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n16ht5 View Post
Wierd that looks almost the same. I know mine was claimed 9800lm which is absurd, but it is pretty bright. Might have diff drivers. I hooked it to the bike 12v running power. Here is comp shots vs my HID... In person the HID appears a bit brighter. You can see a bit more grain on the LED shot. I have a SkyRay King 4x XM-L2 light that is not quite as bright and it is pushing the emitters hard enough to burn your hand after a few minutes.

Here is the one I got .. $72 on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171123796808...84.m1439.l2649

HID on HI


LED Aux


Combined


My little helper likes the green button

Thanks for posting the shots. It looks very bright. So you wired it to 12v, when it came stock with a 8.4v battery pack? That would explain the extra brightness. I hope the regulator is multi-V and handles it no issues.
That's a lot of lumens for the $$.
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:43 PM   #4388
Gargoyle
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: upstate NY, USA
Oddometer: 1,180
Quote:
Originally Posted by loph917 View Post

The hell with the PBR ... look at that view!! Can't wait to see more of your pics.
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Old 10-14-2013, 02:03 PM   #4389
Nowwhat
I'll Go Second...
 
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So what is the long term review on the Sub frame gas tanks?
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:29 PM   #4390
bayarearider
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Big bore kit for a FE390

I am thinking about converting my 390 to a light-rally set up (safari front tank, & 70 degree tank for a total of 5 gallons) and a nav tower setup. If I had a 450 I wouldn't think about a big bore kit. But since I have a 390, I am wondering if anyone knows of a big bore kit to bring it up to 450 or close. I do have a 690 with a full rally set up that I used at the recently held at the 1st Baja rally, but I thought a 450 would be more better suited.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:02 PM   #4391
scorpion
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Planet Reno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post
I am thinking about converting my 390 to a light-rally set up (safari front tank, & 70 degree tank for a total of 5 gallons) and a nav tower setup. If I had a 450 I wouldn't think about a big bore kit. But since I have a 390, I am wondering if anyone knows of a big bore kit to bring it up to 450 or close. I do have a 690 with a full rally set up that I used at the recently held at the 1st Baja rally, but I thought a 450 would be more better suited.
Thinking the same thing. What's the downside of keeping the 390?
Granted that the goal was not podium finishes?
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:35 PM   #4392
Woundflatout
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Portlandia
Oddometer: 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post
I am thinking about converting my 390 to a light-rally set up (safari front tank, & 70 degree tank for a total of 5 gallons) and a nav tower setup. If I had a 450 I wouldn't think about a big bore kit. But since I have a 390, I am wondering if anyone knows of a big bore kit to bring it up to 450 or close. I do have a 690 with a full rally set up that I used at the recently held at the 1st Baja rally, but I thought a 450 would be more better suited.
Another rally prepper here. I was thinking of just going Safari rear tank...not sure it will be enough for the next Baja Rally though. My buddy Angelo said the fuel stops were pretty close together...in your opinion how would the 570 be? I think Bajadad ran his 570?

Jason
2009 Husaberg FE570
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:13 PM   #4393
vintagespeed
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Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
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TPS check & adjustment in 5mins

purpose: reduce low throttle flame outs and hard starting, lean condition at idle

i thought I'd do a quick how-to on adjusting your TPS sensor. i've read some write-ups about measuring the voltage at the TPS, even some using a 5v power supply to measure the TPS signal.

i dont agree that using an external power supply to adjust the TPS provides any practical benefit other than confirming the TPS sensor is working. it's inaccurate because it doesn't measure what the ECU is actually seeing on the bike, through the bike harness. poor grounds or corroded terminals will cause high resistance in the TPS circuit and will cause the ECU to see a lower voltage than what is measured at the TPS itself. the only way to know what the ECU is actually seeing is to measure the TPS voltage at the ECU with the signal returning through all the connectors and grounds on the bike. plus, it's easy and you dont have to build anything!

to measure the signal return at the ECU, i used two metal sewing needles, i passed each needle through the connector at the ECU plug, without disconnecting the plug. i didn't pierce any wires so there is no future corrosion issue. simply pass the needles past the insulator and into the connector at the ECU.

the signal wire from the TPS is a yellow wire, number #5 at the ECU plug. the ground wire from to the TPS (and other sensors) is a black wire, pin number #24. both easily found on the ECU.

whole procedure should take about 5mins.

1. remove (or just loosen) the plastic cover over the ECU and slide the ECU out to the side where you can get to the connector.
2. slide your needles into the back of the connector on pin #5 (yellow) and pin#24 (black), DONT LET THEM TOUCH! there is only one solid yellow and one solid black wire on the ECU so you can't get the wrong wires.
3. measure resistance to ground (negative battery terminal) on the black wire in ohms to make sure you have a good low resistance connection, if it's fairly high then you'll want to clean your ground connections for the harness and at the battery.
4. connect your multimeter to the needles, red on the yellow wire (pin #5) and black on the black wire (pin #24).
5. jumper pins #5 & 6 on the diagnostic port (black/white and brown wires). this will power on the bike, you will hear the fuel pump prime and the headlight will turn on while these pins are jumpered. i used a high tech paperclip for this.
6. your multimeter will read out the voltage across the two pins.
7. adjust the TPS idle voltage by loosening the torx screw and rotating the sensor. counter-clockwise to increase the TPS voltage, clockwise to reduce TPS voltage. shoot for .64v with the throttle closed (idle position). it takes a little messing to get it perfect. when satisfied, tighten the torx screw.
8. hold the throttle wide open (engine should be OFF) and check max output voltage signal from the TPS.
9. disconnect the wires, remove the pins, remove paperclip from diagnostic connector and start the bike up and let it idle for 5mins to calibrate. not sure if this is actually necessary, but it's all over the boards...

now from my research on the web, i found very little about measuring the TPS voltage on a Berg, but many KTM articles. in the KTM articles they mention .64 for the proper TPS return voltage at idle, i do not know exactly what Husaberg recommends this setting to be.

when i measured my bike it was lean measuring .58v:


close up of the pins at the ECU:


adjusted TPS to .64v (note fancy blue paperclip my wife gave me):


wide open throttle measurement:


hope that's useful to someone out there!
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530EXCR and a bunch of 2 strokes that you dont want to read about. :)

TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203

vintagespeed screwed with this post 10-16-2013 at 09:38 AM Reason: spelling, grammar
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:26 PM   #4394
n16ht5
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Location: Arlington, WA
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nice write up on the TPS

went riding this weekend


To Slate Peak 7,488ft




and some other places







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Old 10-15-2013, 02:55 AM   #4395
johnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Odd that they used Berg colors on a new Husky, but I guess anything goes now. Katoombergusky.


They were those colours from '83



through to '93


After that they went to variations of blue/yellow with much less white, until in '06 or '07 they oddly used Honda colours... which they used from 1903 until 1982.
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