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Old 10-21-2013, 02:17 PM   #18826
ghebinkim
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Mountain View, CA
Oddometer: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
My tach was wack with a bad battery. Showing 9,000 at 60 with 15/43.
Hmmm interesting, I'll have to check that out. I assume you're talking about the main battery... there's not a separate battery hidden in the instrument cluster?
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:29 PM   #18827
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 949
Quote:
Originally Posted by marksbonneville View Post
Greg do you remember where you bought the Ken Sean Mirrors? Sending you a PM.
Thanks.
Mark
An almost identical mirror (to the Ken Sean) is available from EMGO. Local shops around here have them on the wall. Mail order from Dennis Kirk and others.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:34 PM   #18828
MrPulldown
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,538
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghebinkim View Post
Hmmm interesting, I'll have to check that out. I assume you're talking about the main battery... there's not a separate battery hidden in the instrument cluster?
I broke the main batteries negative terminal. Seems common as I have repaired this on my friends DR350 as well. Looks ok but it is cracked and gives intermittent battery grounding connections.

My tach too was wacked when this was happening. Very noticeable erratic swings in the tach needle. Only did this for a short ride before I figured it out and fixed it.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:49 PM   #18829
Askor200
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Location: New Zealand
Oddometer: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghebinkim View Post
Hey DR350 experts,

Sorry to quote such an old post, but I've got a question for you all:

I'm riding a '91 DR350S that has a 13/43 gearing. From what I understand, 14/43 is stock for this particular model. According to Gregory Bender's gearing calculator, I should be seeing 5700 rpm at 60 mph. However, I'm hitting an indicated 7k rpm at an indicated 50 mph. So... something is wrong or different!

Has anyone had any trouble with their tach over-reporting or the speedo under-reporting? I know speedos generally have a large error, but not THIS large... The only other thing I can think of is that the clutch could be slipping at high speeds, but it feels pretty grabby when I accelerate. Could someone have changed out the gearing in the transmission itself? Ideas would be appreciated... Thanks!

Kevin
Maybe the tach/gearing calculator isnt working for your bike because the final drive ratios are different(?) between the early years and the later years(?) not too sure about that but it may be the problem
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Old 10-21-2013, 04:52 PM   #18830
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Askor200 View Post
Maybe the tach/gearing calculator isnt working for your bike because the final drive ratios are different(?) between the early years and the later years(?) not too sure about that but it may be the problem
The calculator deals with the primary drive ratio change that was made with the '94 model.
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:10 PM   #18831
aceofspades991
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Joined: Sep 2013
Oddometer: 5
Hi all,

Are there any compatibility issues year to year with the bottom ends of the DR350? In other words, would I be able to take a case/transmission from an older bike and put it on my 99 DR350SE as long as the case came off an e-start bike?

Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:56 AM   #18832
veriest1
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Central Tejas
Oddometer: 2,159
Ok pumper carb is still giving me issues.

It was running fine but still dieing at high rpm last week. Traced it back to my ghetto intake boot setup that came with the carb since it wasnt sealing. Called Jesse and problem solved with his "biscuit" and spacer.

Got the carb in but now it won't start and when it does it dies if I touch the throttle. So...

TM33 pumper
137 pilot (or whatever comes in a new tm33)
145 main 'cause I was chaing high rpm problems but it shouldnt effect starting)
Fuel screw is 1.5 turns out.
Idle air is just touching the pulley.

Set like this it will start and idle 1/2 the time but that's all it'll do.

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Old 10-22-2013, 10:41 AM   #18833
dav_dman
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Location: louisville ky/southere indiana
Oddometer: 741
no expert but sounds like you're not getting a transition to the higher speed circuit, which means the needle stuck in the seat, float stuck, or something in that part of the carb.
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:46 PM   #18834
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aceofspades991 View Post
Hi all,

Are there any compatibility issues year to year with the bottom ends of the DR350? In other words, would I be able to take a case/transmission from an older bike and put it on my 99 DR350SE as long as the case came off an e-start bike?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Pretty sure it will all bolt up. First gear got a little lower in 97 at 2.5 from 2.416.
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:51 PM   #18835
ghebinkim
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Location: Mountain View, CA
Oddometer: 4
Tachometer Issue Resolved

Thanks everyone, turns out my battery wasn't holding a charge after sitting in storage. A new battery fixed the tach issue and it reads out more reasonable values now!
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:16 AM   #18836
markk900
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 354
Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The calculator deals with the primary drive ratio change that was made with the '94 model.
The calculator bases everything off of a reading of indicated speed and indicated rpm from the creator of the calculator (ie. 5300 rpm in 6th at 60mph on a specific brand of tire). Everything else is a % of that single reading, so there is a great deal of variability that could be had.

Use it as an approximation only, though most readings should be reasonably close (ie +/- 500rpm).

There also appears to be one insignificant error - while the calculator deals with the primary ratio change, at least in comparison to my 95 SE the first gear ratio in the 94+ column is wrong. According to my manual it didn't change from the earlier bikes.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:27 AM   #18837
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
The calculator bases everything off of a reading of indicated speed and indicated rpm from the creator of the calculator (ie. 5300 rpm in 6th at 60mph on a specific brand of tire). Everything else is a % of that single reading, so there is a great deal of variability that could be had.

Use it as an approximation only, though most readings should be reasonably close (ie +/- 500rpm).

There also appears to be one insignificant error - while the calculator deals with the primary ratio change, at least in comparison to my 95 SE the first gear ratio in the 94+ column is wrong. According to my manual it didn't change from the earlier bikes.
That's exactly how the calculator was developed. My bike, my instruments. It was intended as a predictive tool for the effect of sprocket changes.

The tachometer, being electronic is probably the more accurate instrument and we all know the speedometer is several mph optimistic. However, IF the observed speed and rpm cells in the spreadsheet are adjusted for YOUR bike (the tire is the biggest variable), the calculator should be very accurate since the mathimatical relationship of the gears is fixed. Keep in mind the indicated speed on the DR350's mechanical speedometer may NOT match up at all speeds but that will be due to the limitations of the crude rotating magnet instrument.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:54 AM   #18838
boboneleg
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Bristol UK
Oddometer: 731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Askor200 View Post
I used 2 small flat head screwdrivers by pushing them in one after the other behind one of the ends of the clip, that broke it loose. Mine was really stuck too!
That did the trick

As you can see there was a fair bit more wear on one side of the bearing compared with the other side.



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Old 10-23-2013, 01:27 PM   #18839
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,063
Petcock to avoid

Hi all,

I've been finalizing the build of a 1993 DR350 with a 1991 engine (dirt model). The other day I noticed that the petcock was leaking externally. Rather than investigate a fix to the original, I decided to purchase a replacement petcock. A quick stroll through eBay found this unit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190618007951...84.m1439.l2649

At $12.50 delivered, it was certainly inexpensive enough. It arrived quickly and functions correctly (no leaks when closed, flows fuel when open).

However, I do have one significant complaint: the barbed hose connection is ~6mm in diameter, whereas the OEM DR350 carburetor's hose connection is ~8mm. 1/4" fuel line is loose on the 6mm side (you'll have to use a clamp) and tight on the 8mm side. Liveable, certainly, but not optimal. I much prefer the OEM Yamaha Raptor petcock I purchased several years ago for ~$25.

This may seem like a insignificant detail, but it is one that I find annoying. Liveable, certainly. But annoying.

More on the superior Raptor petcock here:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...ck_replacement

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 10-23-2013, 01:36 PM   #18840
jules083
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Location: Richmond, Ohio
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Found this one for sale locally. He said he'll take $500, I don't know. Seems high to me, I was thinking $250-$300. Any thoughts? He said it runs but needs a carb, has good title. Not sure of the year yet.



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