ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-21-2013, 06:06 PM   #886
melville
Beastly Adventurer
 
melville's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Behind the Redwood Curtain
Oddometer: 1,189
So on the HD boards, can they even spell Kant? Always something with you Airhead folk!
__________________
Call me Mel. Some years ago- never mind how long precisely- having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me at home, I thought I would ride about a little and see the other parts of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation.
melville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 06:19 PM   #887
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,448
Quote:
Originally Posted by melville View Post
So on the HD boards, can they even spell Kant? Always something with you Airhead folk!
I chose the example because of my inability to spell Heidi...you know, the other one.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 06:36 PM   #888
melville
Beastly Adventurer
 
melville's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Behind the Redwood Curtain
Oddometer: 1,189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
I chose the example because of my inability to spell Heidi...you know, the other one.
Heidegger?
__________________
Call me Mel. Some years ago- never mind how long precisely- having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me at home, I thought I would ride about a little and see the other parts of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation.
melville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 06:39 PM   #889
Kai Ju
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kai Ju's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: So Cal
Oddometer: 1,556
Quote:
Originally Posted by melville View Post
So on the HD boards, can they even spell Kant? Always something with you Airhead folk!
Maybe, but they definitely will know how to spell the word that sounds the same, if properly pronounced, in it's native tongue.
Kai Ju is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 07:49 PM   #890
melville
Beastly Adventurer
 
melville's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Behind the Redwood Curtain
Oddometer: 1,189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
Maybe, but they definitely will know how to spell the word that sounds the same, if properly pronounced, in it's native tongue.
OK, going full tweed 'n' elbow patches here. Dated a gal once who found the origins of that word empowering. Auf Deutsch, koennen: to know.
__________________
Call me Mel. Some years ago- never mind how long precisely- having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me at home, I thought I would ride about a little and see the other parts of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation.
melville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 10:01 PM   #891
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,448
Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I have a couple of Kant books on the shelf. Have never even tried to read them. They are decoration.
My father was once ditching a ton of philosophy books. I was eagerly picking through the boxes, grabbing interesting things. He said, "my boy, there's nothing there". For once I believed him, and put them all back.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2013, 03:54 PM   #892
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
Leaky Bing carb fix on R80 G/S

hope you don't need this info ...
----------

Leaky Bing carb fix on R80 G/S ... tried everything else without success.
it was time to replace the seat. removing seat by carefully following below method requires no heat.

unfortunately bing carbs uses a spring loaded needle/seat combo. this means pressure needed to operate needle/seat is limited to spring tension. viton tip helps in sealing but needle/seat combo pretty much has to be near perfect to work under micro-gram pressures.

above is assuming you've already done the basics like clearing any crud between needle/seat ...
if after replacing needle and setting float at correct levels doesn't work. up next is cotton que tip loaded with polishing compound on seat. if that doesn't work you've got to replace seat in a bing with risks of destroying your carb.

this tutorial gives step by step instructions, reduces risk of damaging bing carb when replacing seat.

use a 24 - 5/16 tap then screw same pitch bolt into now threaded brass seat.
use a nut with ID larger than seat for a spacer. then simply turn nut to pull out.





easy does it when making initial pull. taking apart several times to inspect pull is coming out straight.



use a brass drift to gently tap new seat in



correct float height setting. float level with edge of bowl.


_cy_ screwed with this post 12-01-2013 at 10:22 AM
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2013, 03:56 PM   #893
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
Testing Beancan Halls Sensor Module ..

How to test Beancan Halls Sensor Module ..

since I've not been able to find instructions anywhere for actual testing of Halls sensor module with simple instructions and clear pictures. here it is ...

what we are testing is a halls module made up of voltage regulator, trigger circuit and actual Halls sensor.





when magnet passes in front of halls, a signal is generated in millivolts. Fluke 789 process meter is being used. but any precision VOM can be used.

HP regulated power supply putting out about 12v is used to power module. but most any power supply 4.5v to 24V can be used. a 9v battery works fine.

here's a picture showing what wires to test without breaking down beancan.

red (yellow/green) = + ... black (blue) = ground ... green (brown) = signal

after hooking up wires as shown .. rotate beancan shaft, if halls module is working. you will see a millivolt signal for a brief fraction of a second.

intermittent output are the worst ... if you are that deep into beancan .. replace that halls module and be done ... or better yet switch to beancan with points!!!



green & bottom red is from 12v power supply ... middle red and top black is from Fluke 789 set to DC voltage. if halls module is working, a brief milliamp volt signal will show.




when magnet rotates closeby .. millivolt signal is generated sending a signal to ECU which then triggers a spark.

_cy_ screwed with this post 12-01-2013 at 10:50 AM
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2013, 03:59 PM   #894
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
Replacing Halls Sensor inside a Beancan

How to Replace a Halls Sensor inside a Beancan

here's how you tear into your Beancan from the top without driving out bottom pin, which is usually really tight.

remove top plate and bearing support. then remove large clip underneath.


remove side cap and disconnect advance springs.


remove two circlips, then remove three side screws. when everything is free. remove entire rotor/halls module as one assembly.


remove plastic plug that fastens wiring


if you don't disconnect springs first. springs will let go but might get stretched.


don't even think about removing thin rotor without a puller. the el cheapo battery terminal puller works perfect. take extra care not to loose tiny locator pin.


this is what you see after rotor is removed


early style has two screws, later has two rivets. someone has been here before me
drill out rivets and attach new Halls module taking care to splice/solder/shrink wrap wires to same length.


reassembly is NOT the same as removal. remove last circlip, separate center shaft from halls plate. service advance weight sparingly with a light high quality oil. then insert center shaft, then attach both springs while you have easy access to springs. otherwise it's almost impossible to reattach springs from tiny side cover hole.


next insert hall module plate, carefully aligning up with three screw holes. this pic is shown with old sensor.


replace rotor and carefully drive locator pin with a pin punch.


replace both circlips


install top large circlip and outer cap ... use a tiny dab of grease when installing top bearing plate.


Fin ..

_cy_ screwed with this post 10-28-2013 at 05:05 PM
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2013, 05:06 PM   #895
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
How to test an AGM and LiFePO4 Battery

How to test an AGM Battery

1. remove AGM from bike and/or charge in place with cables removed.

2. use a normal size PB charger without desulfate mode, then charge to full. (don't use battery tender which can take several days to charge to full). don't exceed 14.8v for AGM

3. allow AGM to rest overnight after full charge. then measure resting voltage.

4. resting voltage should be 12.6v to 12.8v fully charged. if say your AGM resting measures 12.8v, then starts your bike strong for load test. odds are your AGM is good.

note there's variation for resting full charge voltage. some AGM could read slightly higher than 12.8v resting.

--------
How to test a LiFePO4 battery (draft version subjective to revision)

1. remove LiFePO4 from bike and/or charge in place with cables removed.

2. use a normal size PB charger without desulfate mode, then charge to full. (don't use battery tender which can take several days to charge to full). don't exceed 14.6v for LiFePO4. ALL PB battery chargers without desulfate mode will charge ALL 12v LiFePO4 batteries. LiFePO4 likes .5C during bulk charge phase. don't leave std PB charger attached to LiFePO4 after full charge (14.6v) is reached. (C = AH)

3. allow LiFePO4 to rest overnight after full charge. then measure resting voltage.

4. resting voltage should be 14.25v range fully charged for batteries without BMS. with BMS voltage will typically be 13.85v range resting.

if say your LiFePO4 resting measures at least 13.3v (90%) or higher, then starts your bike strong for load test. odds are your LiFePO4 is good.

note there's variation for resting full charge voltage depending on what type BMS is installed if any. 13.3v (90%) is the desired resting voltage before starting motorcycle

_cy_ screwed with this post 03-13-2014 at 04:57 PM
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2013, 05:06 PM   #896
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
Checking DC Voltage Calibration for your Meter

Checking DC Voltage Calibration for your Meter

here's how calibration is checked. first one must have a meter worth going to trouble of calibrating. sorry $10 meters don't make the bar.

first method is with a calibration standard which puts out user selected values. meter being tested should read same. since most folks don't have access to a calibration standard. go to second method.

reason I go to this much trouble is to insure any hard data posted by me are dead nuts reliable . that anyone can duplicate with lab grade instruments.

here Martel MC-1000 puts out 3.244v .. Fluke 189 reads 3.2439v


second way is to use a primary lithium cell like CR123 which puts out a stable voltage.. 3.22v with a new Fluke 87V which has recently calibrated by Fluke. go to any HVAC store and borrow their meter



compared to Fluke 789 which also puts out 3.22v .. so conclusion is Fluke 789 is within calibration for DC volts.

_cy_ screwed with this post 10-28-2013 at 05:17 PM
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2013, 05:14 PM   #897
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
under tank brake master cylinder rebuild

here's basically a tutorial complete with clear pictures and detailed information on how to rebuild an .. here ..

most of the gotchas are covered:

how to tell if your master cylinder is rebuildable
how to source washer under brake fluid tank that doesn't come with kit
how to bleed and adjust cable
how to repair brake fluid damage to frame
how to source front brake flex lines that fit exactly like OEM for cheap






_cy_ screwed with this post 11-04-2013 at 08:15 AM
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2013, 05:19 PM   #898
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
How to Test Airhead Diode Board

How to Test Airhead Diode Board

odds are if you need to test a diode board you've got multiple things going .. tackle one at a time.

you may have killed your AGM battery even if it's brand new .. procedures to test an AGM below ..

for airhead charging systems, most common failure are rotors. stators almost never fail, but it can happen. diode board failures are next. but crispy grounding straps and B+ wires are automatically suspect due to HOT environment under front cover.

full fielding alternator by jumping two flat blades inline on three prong plug will only work if rest of system is working. you need to take all measurements with a known to be correct meter. 7 ohms indicates a good rotor for R75/5 (6.9 ohm) 3.5 ohm range for later airheads (check BMW spec's).. you need to use quality meter like a Fluke. here's calibration procedures.. go to post #896

below is a short tutorial on how to test an airhead diode board .. rotor and stator is briefly covered ... you've got to have a known to be correct meter. . note these are all static tests. what counts is under load. for instance you could have a rotor test say 3.5 ohm (or 6.9 ohm). but fails when rotor heats up under load.

at very bottom of page is how to test diodes if you are fortunately enough to have a high end meter like Fluke 87V with diode test function. but I wanted to show how to test with a basic VOM first.

note below tutorial is a work in progress .. still evolving

-------
Testing an AGM Battery
How to test an AGM Battery

1. remove AGM from bike and/or charge in place with cables removed.

2. use a normal size PB charger without desulfate mode, then charge to full. (don't use battery tender which can take several days to charge to full). don't exceed 14.8v for AGM

3. allow AGM to rest overnight after full charge. then measure resting voltage.

4. resting voltage should be 12.6v to 12.8v fully charged. if say your AGM resting measures 12.8v, then starts your bike strong for load test. odds are your AGM is good.

-----------

How to test an Airhead Diode Board

this test requires a known to be correct meter. a Fluke 87V recently calibrated by Fluke is used below. set meter to ohm mode then put leads together to test resistance of leads. then follow meter's instruction on how to zero. clamp tips makes test easier to perform.

airhead diode board is a full wave rectifier with two diodes per leg of three phase AC output from stator. as the name alternating current implies .. voltage switches from DC negative to DC positive in cycles per second. speed of rotation and number of north/south poles on stator determines number of cycles.



this airhead rotor measure 3.5 ohm and has 12 north/south poles that generates 12 cycles per rotation. find spec's from BMW for correct ohm reading for your stator.


each phase is 120 degrees apart with all phase independent of each other. diodes are one way solid state devices. installed in pairs with each diode allowing only DC negative or DC positive voltage through.

rotor is not shown for clarity



to test a diode board hook up your meter exactly as shown below. locate all six diode's tip location. each picture will show sequence. note entire board must be isolated. contact from your skin could throw readings off.

locate where diode lead ends up on circuit board on top


a diode is a one-way valve for electricity. Connected one way across the diode, meter should show a very low resistance. Connected in reverse, diode should show a very high resistance.

achieving exact resistance/ohm values in not critical except mated diode needs to be close. if your voltage drop is within about .5v across all three sets (instruction near end of tutorial) .. this indicates your diode board is probably not at fault.

recommendation is to replace all wires possible with below kit .. about $15
a worthy upgrade is a heavy duty diode board for about $69 if diode board tests bad.

common airhead charging problems are related to bad wiring with B+ and grounding straps to diode board. rotor going out is common too... stators almost never go out. but it can happen...

in the process of digging up airhead charging parts for experimentation .. purchased via flea market, three dead complete charging components for airheads. they all were left overs from 450 watt alternator upgrades. rotors, diode boards, voltage regulators and all the wiring ... ALL components except for crispy wiring, tested out still good, if that says anything.

you've got quite a few things to chase down... take one issue at a time.







press tip firmly to break through insulation .. 265.5 kohm


mated pair measures 269.6 kohm


middle bottom diode measures 265.7 kohm


middle top diode measures 264.7 kohm


left bottom diode measures 270.5 kohm


left top diode measures 270.6 kohm


leads are now reversed .. exact same sequence with all six diode showing reading below. verifying voltage is only allowed one direction .. conclusion is all six diodes are good.




burnt diode board show next to a good diode board


testing stator .. make sure no connectivity to ground on all three legs


testing connectivity between legs .. shows .6 ohm .. this is a good stator


How to test diode board with a diode test setting meter.

wanted to do above test first for folks using a meter without diode test function. here's how diode test function works.

diode setting tests a semiconductor junction by sending a current through the junction, then measuring junction's voltage drop. A good silicon junction drops between 0.5 V and 0.8 V. Fluke 87V then beeps to indicate a good diode.

voltage drop of .513v and .513 for top/lower right diodes.. rest of diodes all tested at .5v drop or all good.



_cy_ screwed with this post 11-26-2013 at 03:20 PM
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2013, 06:45 PM   #899
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
How to trouble shoot cold start problems on airheads

note this is still a work in progress .... lots more details including pic's to be added

multiple things can cause cold start problems... Carburetor issues will be covered first

1. carburetor
2. electrical
3. mechanical

when enrichening circuit is engaged. having a carb with butterfly open too far will add more air leaning out mixture. Plugged low speed circuit can lead to cold start problems.

if screwing low speed mixture makes no difference. usually low speed jet is plugged. some folks compensate by opening up butterfly enough for main jets to start working.

1. make sure your enrichening valves are not backwards. marked R & L. adjust cables to make sure valve is completely engaged.
2. take a can of Berryman's chemtool with long nozzle. put on safely glasses .. place tip on each and every circuit/jet inside carb. if you see carb cleaner coming out other side. proof positive that circuit is clear. use only carb cleaner with nozzle.
3. check diaphragms to make sure there's no tears.
4. make sure ignition timing is correct

to adjust idle is to close butterfly completely. then open by 1/2 turn or barely open. this is only a starting position. rpm will probably be too low adjust accordingly.

start with mixture valve 3/4 to 1.5 turns out depending on which model carb. then after engine starts and runs without enrichener. turn low speed mixture screw out until rpm drops, that's your max rich point. then turn screw inwards, rpm should start to raise. keeping screwing inwards until rpm drops. that's your lean point.

adjust screw until you find the highest idle, then open another 1/8 turn. experiment to find spot for acceleration without hesitation. usually that spot will be slightly richer than peak rpm. if low speed jet has been changed, that will change final position.

if screwing low speed mixture makes no difference with butterly almost closed. something is still plugged up.

_cy_ screwed with this post 11-11-2013 at 05:19 AM
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2013, 08:13 AM   #900
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 4,449
reserved 5
_cy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:05 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014