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Old 11-12-2013, 11:35 AM   #21001
CatfishRacing
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I found 135.
Not sure if that's correct but it's all I have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfishRacing View Post
Can anybody tell me what the compression should be with an Athena 434cc kit?
I'd like to do a compression test and I don't have a baseline.
Thanks.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:23 PM   #21002
ohgood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfishRacing View Post
Can anybody tell me what the compression should be with an Athena 434cc kit?
I'd like to do a compression test and I don't have a baseline.
Thanks.
Disable the auto decompression mechanism with a zip tie before you do a test oR it's false, use WOT
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:28 PM   #21003
DR-Zamboni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohgood View Post
Disable the auto decompression mechanism with a zip tie before you do a test oR it's false, use WOT
Can you explain how to do this? I've often argued with my friends that compression testing a DRZ is difficult because of the decompression mech, but I've never attempted to disable it.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:45 PM   #21004
The Recycled Teenager
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swingarm bearings maintenance

Hi Folks
Any kind soul point me to the posts on pulling the swingarm apart for maintenance and the tools required
Thanks in advance
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:04 PM   #21005
focallength
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Originally Posted by The Recycled Teenager View Post
Hi Folks
Any kind soul point me to the posts on pulling the swingarm apart for maintenance and the tools required
Thanks in advance
Are you doing the bearings, or just lubing it? If its just lube you dont need to pull it, jus mallet out the swing arm bolt. If your doing the linkage an impact wrench is all you need to loosen the bolts. As far as the bearings, I just pay a shop $10-20 to prees them out/in. its not complex, a breaker bar will loosen the linkage, but you have to retorque them along with the swing arm bolt.

When I pull the bolt, I use a dowel and a mallet to smack the bolt out, slather it up and smack it back in. if you dont have a trained monkey to hold the swing arm in line it requires some finagling, but its doable solo.
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:13 PM   #21006
AteamNM
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Originally Posted by focallength View Post
if you dont have a trained monkey to hold the swing arm in line it requires some finagling, but its doable solo.
Use a strap to tie up the swing arm, connect to ceiling or even the seat. Ratchet strap works good to crank it up and into place; but so easier with 2 people.
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:25 PM   #21007
PhiSig1071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
Are you doing the bearings, or just lubing it? If its just lube you dont need to pull it, jus mallet out the swing arm bolt. If your doing the linkage an impact wrench is all you need to loosen the bolts. As far as the bearings, I just pay a shop $10-20 to prees them out/in. its not complex, a breaker bar will loosen the linkage, but you have to retorque them along with the swing arm bolt.

When I pull the bolt, I use a dowel and a mallet to smack the bolt out, slather it up and smack it back in. if you dont have a trained monkey to hold the swing arm in line it requires some finagling, but its doable solo.
My linkages all have zerk fittings for grease, is this not normal? Is there something else I need to be inspecting?
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:51 AM   #21008
dmage
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This is probably a dumb question, but is there an issue running 90/90 21 front instead of the 80/100-21?
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Old 11-13-2013, 02:21 AM   #21009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmage View Post
This is probably a dumb question, but is there an issue running 90/90 21 front instead of the 80/100-21?
I think the 90 90 is "proper", but I don't think it really all that much. The first number is the width, the second is some kind of ratio of the first for the height, I think...
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:15 AM   #21010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiSig1071 View Post
Pezz, I'm curious about those, are they stock fitment? Or do they interfere with the tank shrouds? Also, will guards for a stock radiator fit over those? Or does fluidyne make special guards?
PhiSig

They are a direct bolt on replacement, but they are deeper than stock. I havent fitted them as yet, but they will be installed soon

I have been told they are much stronger than the stockers and unsure if a brace is necessary. . . . I will post pics as it comes together.

I will be running the 17LT safari tank too.
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:41 AM   #21011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-Zamboni View Post
Can you explain how to do this? I've often argued with my friends that compression testing a DRZ is difficult because of the decompression mech, but I've never attempted to disable it.

This is the mechanism



usetheendofa zip tie jammed in the mechanism to keep the pin from contacting the shim bucket
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:50 AM   #21012
LittleRedToyota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmage View Post
This is probably a dumb question, but is there an issue running 90/90 21 front instead of the 80/100-21?
no problem at all.
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:54 AM   #21013
LittleRedToyota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropic-Of-Canada View Post
The first number is the width, the second is some kind of ratio of the first for the height, I think...
the ratio is height of the sidewall as a percentage of the width.

so, a 90/90 tire is 90mm wide and has an 81mm tall sidewall. (90% of 90mm is 81mm).

a 80/100 tire is 80mm wide and has an 80mm sidewall. (100% of 80mm is 80mm).
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:10 AM   #21014
PhiSig1071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
The zerks are an E feature not found on the S or SM. Even then they're not found on the E main pivot, so it still becomes necessary to disassemble the swing arm for maintenance.
Gotcha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pezz_gs View Post
PhiSig

They are a direct bolt on replacement, but they are deeper than stock. I havent fitted them as yet, but they will be installed soon

I have been told they are much stronger than the stockers and unsure if a brace is necessary. . . . I will post pics as it comes together.

I will be running the 17LT safari tank too.
Sounds good, I'll check back when you've got them installed and see what the consensus is on a guard.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:01 AM   #21015
The Recycled Teenager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
Are you doing the bearings, or just lubing it? If its just lube you dont need to pull it, jus mallet out the swing arm bolt. If your doing the linkage an impact wrench is all you need to loosen the bolts. As far as the bearings, I just pay a shop $10-20 to prees them out/in. its not complex, a breaker bar will loosen the linkage, but you have to retorque them along with the swing arm bolt.

When I pull the bolt, I use a dowel and a mallet to smack the bolt out, slather it up and smack it back in. if you dont have a trained monkey to hold the swing arm in line it requires some finagling, but its doable solo.
At this point I am hoping just to re-grease everything and check for wear, I have 5,000 kilometres on the clock and thought it should be looked at.
Its an 09 but did not see the road till 2011, I got a deal on it as the dealer wanted a quick sale at the time.
I have the tools but in case I need to change any bearings I remember seeing some home brewed tools for removal etc so hence the request on the group.
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