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Old 11-14-2013, 10:24 AM   #8341
Earthscape
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hajoktejnSI View Post
Hello from an over debt country that used to be a nice place to live in - Slovenia.
A month ago I bought myself an KTM Lc4 adventure 640, 2000. It's completely stock, has 30.000 km ( I guess ...), everything but the tripmaster resetting itself seems to be working fine. The suspension of this bike is remarkable. Smooth over bumbs, yet soft enough not to break my spine over rough terrain. Well that's it for now.
[IMG][/IMG]
Nice. Love the blue and orange - looks a lot like my '99.
You probably need a new Tripmaster battery. It's a bit delicate to replace, but after that, no more odometer resets. You can use a small neodymium magnet taped to a PC fan, to put the miles back on the odometer after (if you're so inclined). It will spin the speedometer at a few hundred MPH (several hundred kph) and put the miles on fast. Let it go for a day or so - don't let it go too far or you'll be starting over.
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Old 11-14-2013, 01:13 PM   #8342
hajoktejnSI
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Thanks for the tip; actually it is 99, the first reg. was in 2000, my bad.
I was reading about the battery change but have a bit of fear doing it cause I really donīt want to destroy the unit ... it`s kinda expensive; on the other hand it`s annoying as a rash.
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Old 11-14-2013, 02:21 PM   #8343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hajoktejnSI View Post
Hello from an over debt country that used to be a nice place to live in - Slovenia.
A month ago I bought myself an KTM Lc4 adventure 640, 2000. It's completely stock, has 30.000 km ( I guess ...), everything but the tripmaster resetting itself seems to be working fine. The suspension of this bike is remarkable. Smooth over bumbs, yet soft enough not to break my spine over rough terrain. Well that's it for now.
[IMG][/IMG]
Nice 99, 99-2000 were the last of the 50mm forks.

Here's my 2000 640-E w/ the 50mm forks...I just rebuilt the top end @ 21800 miles, honed the barrel, new piston/rings, valve job and cam bearings. The cam bearings failed and the bike quit running. Runs great since the rebuild!


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pcvance screwed with this post 11-14-2013 at 02:29 PM
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Old 11-14-2013, 02:50 PM   #8344
hajoktejnSI
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nice bike you˙ve got there ;) the wp50s rock
cam bearings failed is that a common issue?
have to check my mainshaft bearing though ... didn˙t know or read about the camshaft bearings.
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:18 AM   #8345
Earthscape
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hajoktejnSI View Post
Thanks for the tip; actually it is 99, the first reg. was in 2000, my bad.
I was reading about the battery change but have a bit of fear doing it cause I really donīt want to destroy the unit ... it`s kinda expensive; on the other hand it`s annoying as a rash.
When I did mine, I used a small battery holder connected with wires to the original location to make changing the battery in the future easier - just remove a bit of hot glue, slide the old battery out and slide a new battery in next time. I had someone with much steadier soldering hands than I have do the tricky part, and prying the old battery out breaking the original solder requires a bit of finesse and patience (as does removing the hot glue to get it apart), otherwise it's pretty simple. I recommend leaving the old battery out for a good period of time before putting the new one in, so no bad data remains in the unit.

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2004 KTM 950 ADV : : : : : : : 1998 Triumph Tiger
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2007 Kawasaki KLX350S : : : : 1996 Yamaha XT350
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:53 PM   #8346
hajoktejnSI
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Talking

Thanks guys. Changed the battery today. A bit to fine of a work for me but I didn`t had too much trouble. IMO is working fine . Installed an on/off switch for the lights while the dash was unscrewed, so I can kickstart my bike with an empty battery
Now, about that magnet and a fan ... what kind of magnet do I need? Where can I get it from?
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:29 PM   #8347
Earthscape
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hajoktejnSI View Post
Thanks guys. Changed the battery today. A bit to fine of a work for me but I didn`t had too much trouble. IMO is working fine . Installed an on/off switch for the lights while the dash was unscrewed, so I can kickstart my bike with an empty battery
Now, about that magnet and a fan ... what kind of magnet do I need? Where can I get it from?
I think the IMO sensor will pick up any type of magnet, but a neodymium magnet will be small and light enough (and still strong enough) to tape to a PC fan without flying off or being too heavy for the fan.
Something like this, but you certainly don't need 100:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-4x2mm...item4acc0652a2
If you have some type of local electronic or radio specialty store near you, you may be able to find them there.

I think I still have my fan contraption laying around somewhere, I'll snap a pic and post it up later. It's not pretty, but it worked.

Did you already know that there is a connector under the headlights that is there just for the purpose of kickstarting? Or, did you put a switch in that connector just to make it easier?
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"You do your own thing in your own time, you should be proud."

2004 KTM 950 ADV : : : : : : : 1998 Triumph Tiger
1999 KTM 640 ADV : : : : : : : 1993 Kawasaki KLX650
2007 Kawasaki KLX350S : : : : 1996 Yamaha XT350
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:31 PM   #8348
mxchamp
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Originally Posted by Earthscape View Post

Did you already know that there is a connector under the headlights that is there just for the purpose of kickstarting? Or, did you put a switch in that connector just to make it easier?
Please explain (with photos) of said connector to kill the lights??

Thanks!!!
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:45 PM   #8349
Earthscape
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Originally Posted by mxchamp View Post
Please explain (with photos) of said connector to kill the lights??

Thanks!!!
LOL! I'll check when I get home if I have any pics of it - I think the headlight mask would need to be off to get a picture of it; I don't think it would be possible to shove a camera in there without taking it off.
If you put your hand up under the mask below the low-beam headlight (left side as you're sitting on the bike in case your lights are different), you should feel a connector that hangs down and rubs on the mask, that is the connector. They purposely left it long enough to get your hand in there and disconnect it, which is why it rubs on the headlight mask inside. It doesn't just disconnect the lights. With it disconnected, the bike will start, but nothing else will work (as far as I remember).
It's entirely possible that different countries were different in this area, but my guess would be they are similar if not the same.
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"You do your own thing in your own time, you should be proud."

2004 KTM 950 ADV : : : : : : : 1998 Triumph Tiger
1999 KTM 640 ADV : : : : : : : 1993 Kawasaki KLX650
2007 Kawasaki KLX350S : : : : 1996 Yamaha XT350
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:48 PM   #8350
mxchamp
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Originally Posted by Earthscape View Post
LOL! I'll check when I get home if I have any pics of it - I think the headlight mask would need to be off to get a picture of it; I don't think it would be possible to shove a camera in there without taking it off.
If you put your hand up under the mask below the low-beam headlight (left side as you're sitting on the bike in case your lights are different), you should feel a connector that hangs down and rubs on the mask, that is the connector. They purposely left it long enough to get your hand in there and disconnect it, which is why it rubs on the headlight mask inside. It doesn't just disconnect the lights. With it disconnected, the bike will start, but nothing else will work (as far as I remember).
It's entirely possible that different countries were different in this area, but my guess would be they are similar if not the same.
Well thank you very much. I will have to take a look see whenever I yank her off again. USA model here. 2001.


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Old 11-15-2013, 01:57 PM   #8351
hajoktejnSI
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Actually I wasn't aware of the conector ... I did it in a roughneck kind of way
I've looked at the wiring diagram and have cut the brown wire and connected it to a switch. I noticed that the original wiring is waaay too thin and the insulation of the wires has become quite soft so I decided to change and rewire the ktm spaghetti in future. At that time I will locate the connector and route the wiring from switch to there.
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Old 11-15-2013, 03:45 PM   #8352
Earthscape
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First up, the fan contraption to put miles back on the odometer. You can see the neodymium magnet under the tape. The wood is just a small piece of scrap shim, probably 1/4" or 5/16" thick or so, and is attached to the fan through the normal fan mounting holes on the back. I unbolted the IMO sensor from the fork/brake mount and used the screw that is visible to attach it to the wood, such that the magnet would pass directly under the sensor on each revolution. I rested the combination fan and sensor on something next to the bike so I didn't need to disconnect the entire cable from the bike. I didn't want to leave the bike ignition on for the entire time it would take to spin up the right mileage, so I unplugged the IMO and connected it directly to a spare 12v battery (I think I found the pinout wiring somewhere on line, but don't remember at the moment, it may be as simple as only two wires in). Then I connected the fan to the same battery and put it on a charger. For the fan I used, the speedo read around 300 MPH. If you use two opposing magnets you may be able to double that speed, but I don't know at what point would be too fast for the IMO to read. I only had one magnet as the other that came in the package flew off to parts unknown on my first attempt!




Second, the connector for "empty battery" starting. This is from my owner's handbook that came with the bike. It's a '99, I have no idea if later models are the same. I know electrical components were some of the things that DID change on later models, but I don't know exactly what changed. I would guess that the reason for the existence of this connector wouldn't have changed. Based on what the manual says, I'm second guessing my memory that more than just the headlight is turned off when this is disconnected - it's been too long since I tried it, I just don't remember.



*** EDIT ***
I realized the wire was long enough to pull it out and get a picture, so here it is in real life.



Hope this stuff is helpful.
__________________
"You do your own thing in your own time, you should be proud."

2004 KTM 950 ADV : : : : : : : 1998 Triumph Tiger
1999 KTM 640 ADV : : : : : : : 1993 Kawasaki KLX650
2007 Kawasaki KLX350S : : : : 1996 Yamaha XT350

Earthscape screwed with this post 11-15-2013 at 03:53 PM
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Old 11-15-2013, 07:21 PM   #8353
mxchamp
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Location: The corn state,11 curves in 318 miles (Iafalls IA)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthscape View Post
First up, the fan contraption to put miles back on the odometer. You can see the neodymium magnet under the tape. The wood is just a small piece of scrap shim, probably 1/4" or 5/16" thick or so, and is attached to the fan through the normal fan mounting holes on the back. I unbolted the IMO sensor from the fork/brake mount and used the screw that is visible to attach it to the wood, such that the magnet would pass directly under the sensor on each revolution. I rested the combination fan and sensor on something next to the bike so I didn't need to disconnect the entire cable from the bike. I didn't want to leave the bike ignition on for the entire time it would take to spin up the right mileage, so I unplugged the IMO and connected it directly to a spare 12v battery (I think I found the pinout wiring somewhere on line, but don't remember at the moment, it may be as simple as only two wires in). Then I connected the fan to the same battery and put it on a charger. For the fan I used, the speedo read around 300 MPH. If you use two opposing magnets you may be able to double that speed, but I don't know at what point would be too fast for the IMO to read. I only had one magnet as the other that came in the package flew off to parts unknown on my first attempt!




Second, the connector for "empty battery" starting. This is from my owner's handbook that came with the bike. It's a '99, I have no idea if later models are the same. I know electrical components were some of the things that DID change on later models, but I don't know exactly what changed. I would guess that the reason for the existence of this connector wouldn't have changed. Based on what the manual says, I'm second guessing my memory that more than just the headlight is turned off when this is disconnected - it's been too long since I tried it, I just don't remember.



*** EDIT ***
I realized the wire was long enough to pull it out and get a picture, so here it is in real life.



Hope this stuff is helpful.
Excellent!!

You are the man! I owe you a beer! Off I go to the garage!!!


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Old 11-15-2013, 09:45 PM   #8354
hajoktejnSI
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You the man @Earthscape, thank you
Going to rip the fan out of an old PC, ordered some magnets from a local internet shop so monday will be the day to put the contraption to the test :)
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:48 PM   #8355
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Excellent!!

You are the man! I owe you a beer! Off I go to the garage!!!


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Champ,
An easy way out of disconnecting is to put an on/off toggle switch on the low beam ground wire and then break the ground connection with the switch for dead battery starts.

Put the switch on the dash.

bill
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