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Old 11-23-2013, 04:58 PM   #3751
jules083
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Originally Posted by redprimo View Post
For TIG I prefer a huntsman fiber hood with a non auto large lens. I'm possibly the only person on this forum that prefers a non auto hood, but It works for me. I like auto helmets for MIG but as I've aged and progressed to wearing bifocal glasses I have had problems seeing when TIG welding. I've tried the insert readers and they help, but when I dug out my old huntsman it was so much easier to see with that huge 4" x5"" lens. Much easier than trying to juggle a pair of readers and a pair of bifocals in the shop.
I hate auto hoods. Last time I used one was for a 6G stainless test in June. Hadn't used one in a few years before that, I made one tack then went back to manual.

Shade 11, glass filler plate. No auto ever built is that clear and reliable.

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Old 11-24-2013, 08:39 PM   #3752
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I wear a mid-line Hobart adjustable every day.

One of my guys at work got the Kobalt for $99 with the graphics. I'm impressed for the dollar. However my next hood will be a 3M Speedglas
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:29 AM   #3753
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Titanium- who's welded it. Who's machined it? I need some info on both. I've heard it'll ignite when welded and burn,and it eats carbide up. Looking for someone that has experience with it.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:34 AM   #3754
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Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
I hate auto hoods. Last time I used one was for a 6G stainless test in June. Hadn't used one in a few years before that, I made one tack then went back to manual.

Shade 11, glass filler plate. No auto ever built is that clear and reliable.

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The older ones sucked and flashed you unless you blinked on start.then your eyes had to adjust for lighting and focus. The new ones are tons better than the old.

I have a Lincoln Viking. It works pretty good,nice and clear when shaded and not.

This is a cheaper Lincoln brand. Might be as good. Haven't seen it yet in person.
http://m.lowes.com/product?langId=-1...97&view=detail
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:54 AM   #3755
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Originally Posted by Danjal View Post
Titanium- who's welded it. Who's machined it? I need some info on both. I've heard it'll ignite when welded and burn,and it eats carbide up. Looking for someone that has experience with it.
Won't burn, that is Mg.

I weld it several times a year, and machine/fab parts for myself from Ti.

Different types machine better than others..some of it will kill a cutter in a matter of seconds.

What are you doing?
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:12 AM   #3756
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Hi All,

The Aluminium subframe on my poor husky has been broken a FEW times, gussetted and strengthened in one place it breaks in another.

So now I've busted out the battery tray, and I want to try and repair it myself since it hasn't been 'pretty for a long time :) I figure I should be able to do it 'good enuf' to get by until I can get a decent tig setup. I'm using a 110v hobart now, with no spoolgun so any tips on what wire I should use? Most of what I am doing is 1/16 max.

Being cheap, and since I only have all of about 1.5" to weld total, Can I get by with using the c25 I already have or do I absolutely have to have argon?

Also, I'm wondering if it's possible to re-heat treat the whole thing when done? (how?) I'm not sure how important that really is since the welds in general have held.
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:29 AM   #3757
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Originally Posted by NitroAcres View Post
Won't burn, that is Mg.

I weld it several times a year, and machine/fab parts for myself from Ti.

Different types machine better than others..some of it will kill a cutter in a matter of seconds.

What are you doing?
It won't easily burn as bulk material but the shavings will burn like Mg, we have had Ti fires in our shop.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:28 AM   #3758
David R
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If you are going to weld aluminum with a 110 mig and no spool gun what you need are patients of a saint!

Welding aluminum like that is like "Playing pool with a rope" (a quote of my dad not about welding)

It can be done. They make a teflon liner for your mig gun and use 5356 wire because its stiffer than pure 4043.

Perhaps a little help from the folks on the Hobart site.
Yes you need PURE Argon.
Best of luck. Show us how it comes out, pics and all!
David

Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Hi All,

The Aluminium subframe on my poor husky has been broken a FEW times, gussetted and strengthened in one place it breaks in another.

So now I've busted out the battery tray, and I want to try and repair it myself since it hasn't been 'pretty for a long time :) I figure I should be able to do it 'good enuf' to get by until I can get a decent tig setup. I'm using a 110v hobart now, with no spoolgun so any tips on what wire I should use? Most of what I am doing is 1/16 max.

Being cheap, and since I only have all of about 1.5" to weld total, Can I get by with using the c25 I already have or do I absolutely have to have argon?

Also, I'm wondering if it's possible to re-heat treat the whole thing when done? (how?) I'm not sure how important that really is since the welds in general have held.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:58 AM   #3759
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Lol. I was afraid that would be the case. I might pay a guy 100 to do it a third time...

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Old 11-25-2013, 11:05 AM   #3760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjal View Post
Titanium- who's welded it. Who's machined it? I need some info on both. I've heard it'll ignite when welded and burn,and it eats carbide up. Looking for someone that has experience with it.
We do everything with it here. What do you want to do with it?

Machining chips can be flammable, but mostly as grinding swarf. Use the correct speed and feed and get inserts designed for the proper Ti alloy.
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:04 PM   #3761
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Receivers out of tubing and bolts out of round stock. I need to make and weld 2 nuts on it to hold a top picatinny rail. The tube is 6-4 IIRC. ..060". I'll get the actual specs later if it's that important.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:16 AM   #3762
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Originally Posted by GSWayne View Post
It won't easily burn as bulk material but the shavings will burn like Mg, we have had Ti fires in our shop.
Learn something new everyday, welded a lot of it, machined a fair share of it and never had it catch fire...also see a ton of exhaust made from it, glow red and not ignite.

Thanks for the heads up, I will now separate out the Ti swarf off the lathe..(I have always just separated the Mg chips and grinding dust.)
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:25 AM   #3763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroAcres View Post
Learn something new everyday, welded a lot of it, machined a fair share of it and never had it catch fire...also see a ton of exhaust made from it glow red and not ignite.

I may have to fire up the lathe, {pun intended} and see what happens.
FYI, iron and aluminum powder will burn also. They are not extremely easy to ignite, much like titanium. I think all metals can burn (but would need to reference the chemistry book on that one). Some are just easier to ignite as a powder.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:31 AM   #3764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
FYI, iron and aluminum powder will burn also. They are not extremely easy to ignite, much like titanium. I think all metals can burn (but would need to reference the chemistry book on that one). Some are just easier to ignite as a powder.
I have actually caught the grinding dust box on my big belt sander on fire..dull red glow...with occasional bright white flashes..gets a lot of mixed use, Alum, Steel..

TIG Welding Ti or Mg correctly, The odds of it catching fire are ZERO.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:52 AM   #3765
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Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
FYI, iron and aluminum powder will burn also. They are not extremely easy to ignite, much like titanium. I think all metals can burn (but would need to reference the chemistry book on that one). Some are just easier to ignite as a powder.
This


Anything that can oxidize can explosively combust given the right particle size and air/fuel ratio.
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