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Old 12-14-2013, 08:36 PM   #12676
Hoots
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Location: Gundaroo NSW OZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post
Mine only went back to 000000 km after I unplugged some cables last night. Yesterday it must have been fine as I went out for a 60km loop, this morning when I started it I noticed it was at zero km...
Must have been a coincidence, or did you drive through heavy rain then unplug all the wiring because your bike was coughing and spluttering too :)

Im sure I read somewhere that it can be fixed and the original distance on the odo isn't lost.


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No, nothing unusual in the riding post surgery ...

I asked the question here at the time, and someone said that this can happen after the battery is disconnected for a long period ...

To be honest, I don't think they went about removing the shock the easy way - i.e. by lifting up the sub-frame - they took it out from above, having removed the airbox and disconnected the battery - I was a bit surprised when I got back and saw all this stuff on the floor ...

After that, the odometer had reset itself ...
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:44 PM   #12677
ktmmitch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelingaustralian View Post
After buying my new ktm 690R almost 6 months ago while still living and working down in Antarctica, I had a chance to ride it for the first time. Can anyone suggest a good tuner in the Melbourne area? Bike is running like crap! On the Advanced setting it stalls runs rough and dangerous off idle with the bike stalling and locking up the rear wheel. It has had mapping installed to suit the changed exhaust and air intake. When I changed the setting to 0 and did the 15 minute idle from cold reset bike run great? I did this because I read others that had done this and there bike ran ok. 0 is for bad fuel? Why does it run so well on this setting? What is it going to do to the bike long term as they say only to run it on one tank?? The bike has had filters cleaned and the tank was drained and new fuel as it has sat for a little while. I have just finish fitting the Rally Raid Tanks turning it from standard to an Adventure bike.
Here are a couple pictures.

What silencer is that fitted?
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:55 PM   #12678
travelingaustralian
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Location: Off to do London to Cape Town on my KTM690R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
What silencer is that fitted?

Hi John, Its a Vance and Hines slip on.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:12 PM   #12679
mezcal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
No, nothing unusual in the riding post surgery ...

I asked the question here at the time, and someone said that this can happen after the battery is disconnected for a long period ...

To be honest, I don't think they went about removing the shock the easy way - i.e. by lifting up the sub-frame - they took it out from above, having removed the airbox and disconnected the battery - I was a bit surprised when I got back and saw all this stuff on the floor ...

After that, the odometer had reset itself ...
Mine was all back together when I got there. Today while washing it I noticed the silencer clamp had moved slightly making me think the wings pipe was removed, other than that I see no evidence of anything being removed.

I also rode mine twice after Terry did the work on Friday, its only today when I started the bike I noticed the odo on zero. Yesterday it was fine.
I keep blowing bloody headlight globes though.. 5 in 2 years!


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Old 12-14-2013, 09:24 PM   #12680
Hoots
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post
Mine was all back together when I got there. Today while washing it I noticed the silencer clamp had moved slightly making me think the wings pipe was removed, other than that I see no evidence of anything being removed.

I also rode mine twice after Terry did the work on Friday, its only today when I started the bike I noticed the odo on zero. Yesterday it was fine.
I keep blowing bloody headlight globes though.. 5 in 2 years!


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Strange coincidence ...

I did tell them quietly that that was not the easy way to take the shock out of a 690 - told them about a few web demos ...

I don't know whether any of this is relevant, or just pure chance ...

Two bikes / identical procedure / two reset odometers ...

Although the lag of a day or so in your case is a bit hard to understand ...

Anyway, be good to know if you discover a way to put the kms back on it - unrealistically low kms are always a disincentive for secondhand bike buyers ...
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:06 PM   #12681
DanTheMan07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just_P_Dirty View Post
I am planing to do this soon and i dont have the service man- what torq specs did u use? what did you mean about freeze it and put back in?

thanks
To remove the steering stem from the lower triple you have to pound it out, if you dont have a press. Its a tight fit putting it back in. So i think he put the stem in the freezer to get it to shrink slightly to make it easier to press, or pound back in the lower triple. Mine took significant persuading to remove and put back in place. Didn't try the freezer thing, it might have helped.
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:25 PM   #12682
Monterey_BS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post
Well the bike ran perfectly, aside from one thing.
The odometer reset itself. I unplugged a few things around the battery so I guess that is the reason. Is this something only a dealer can fix, and will the computer know how many km I do after the reset and from before hand?

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Happened to me at 878mi. Bad battery in my case. Battery replaced under warranty. Dealer offered to send the unit to KTM to be reset to correct values, but it could take several weeks to get it back. They said they were not authorized to make any changes. My solution was to add 878 to the mileage formula in my cost spreadsheet for the bike.
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:30 PM   #12683
AccelRus MaxiMus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelingaustralian View Post
Hi John, Its a Vance and Hines slip on.
Ummm... Me thinks you mean Leo Vince ?

The logo on the pipe looks a lot like this one:

http://www.riderforums.com/zr-7-perf...tml#post535732



BTW - like your work area - looks warm and relaxed !!

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Old 12-14-2013, 11:05 PM   #12684
travelingaustralian
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Location: Off to do London to Cape Town on my KTM690R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AccelRus MaxiMus View Post
Ummm... Me thinks you mean Leo Vince ?

The logo on the pipe looks a lot like this one:

http://www.riderforums.com/zr-7-perf...tml#post535732



BTW - like your work area - looks warm and relaxed !!

That would be the one! I have know idea why I said Vance and Hines? Probably because I had one on my other bike?
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:32 AM   #12685
mezcal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monterey_BS View Post
Happened to me at 878mi. Bad battery in my case. Battery replaced under warranty. Dealer offered to send the unit to KTM to be reset to correct values, but it could take several weeks to get it back. They said they were not authorized to make any changes. My solution was to add 878 to the mileage formula in my cost spreadsheet for the bike.
Bugger sounds like an easy fix isn't going to happen.
Ill call the bike shop tomorrow. Thanks for the reply

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Old 12-15-2013, 12:42 AM   #12686
MeinMotorrad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelingaustralian View Post
After buying my new ktm 690R almost 6 months ago while still living and working down in Antarctica, I had a chance to ride it for the first time. Can anyone suggest a good tuner in the Melbourne area? Bike is running like crap! On the Advanced setting it stalls runs rough and dangerous off idle with the bike stalling and locking up the rear wheel. It has had mapping installed to suit the changed exhaust and air intake.
I see you still have the stock snorkel, this is likely where your idling problems are coming from. Take a look throughout the ECU Thread here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657. Quite a few mods to the stock snorkel. What filter are you using?

It's worthwhile getting TuneECU (it's free) and the relevant cables, this will let you see what fault codes are being logged by your ecu. I saw when I was editing the quote that you are using a Mac - TuneECU is windows only so you will have to partition your drive and install a version of windows, this means you need an external HD to back up onto. I'd get Win7 if you can, avoid Win8 at all costs.

When you reinstalled the air box how did you route the throttle cables, under or over the front r/h air box mounting bolt? If you've got bar risers fitted this may have put the cables under strain - there are other here with more knowledge than me on that topic though.

Another thought: when you were following the RR instructions did you undo the throttle cables to thread them through the r/h plastic frame guard? Many here, myself included just cut the guard, more quick and simple. Again, TuneECU will tell you of problems here.
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:51 AM   #12687
ktmmitch
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stalling

Quote:
Originally Posted by travelingaustralian View Post
That would be the one! I have know idea why I said Vance and Hines? Probably because I had one on my other bike?
We have had problems with slow running with Leo Vince fitted, even after using Tuneboy re mapping.
Do you have anyone near with a different silencer to try?
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:53 AM   #12688
travelingaustralian
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Location: Off to do London to Cape Town on my KTM690R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
I see you still have the stock snorkel, this is likely where your idling problems are coming from. Take a look throughout the ECU Thread here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657. Quite a few mods to the stock snorkel. What filter are you using?

It's worthwhile getting TuneECU (it's free) and the relevant cables, this will let you see what fault codes are being logged by your ecu. I saw when I was editing the quote that you are using a Mac - TuneECU is windows only so you will have to partition your drive and install a version of windows, this means you need an external HD to back up onto. I'd get Win7 if you can, avoid Win8 at all costs.

When you reinstalled the air box how did you route the throttle cables, under or over the front r/h air box mounting bolt? If you've got bar risers fitted this may have put the cables under strain - there are other here with more knowledge than me on that topic though.

Another thought: when you were following the RR instructions did you undo the throttle cables to thread them through the r/h plastic frame guard? Many here, myself included just cut the guard, more quick and simple. Again, TuneECU will tell you of problems here.
MeinMotorrad,

Thanks for the info. The bike is running a K&N filter with the top of the air box drilled to allow extra air into it. I want to change this and fit the open filter box. I ran the cables above the air box r/h mount. I've inverted the throttle body 180deg because I have fitted the bar rasers this gave the extra cable required. I did the same as you and cut the plastic cover to remover it.
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:49 AM   #12689
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTheMan07 View Post
To remove the steering stem from the lower triple you have to pound it out, if you dont have a press. Its a tight fit putting it back in. So i think he put the stem in the freezer to get it to shrink slightly to make it easier to press, or pound back in the lower triple. Mine took significant persuading to remove and put back in place. Didn't try the freezer thing, it might have helped.
The stem on your bike sounded pretty darned tight. Mine was pretty snug but far from needing to chock it up in the bearing press in order to press it out from the lower triple.

Knowing a better order of removal now that I've done the job I'd get the wheel, forks, fender, bars/clamp off of the bike, loosen but don't remove the large nut on the under side of the lower triple. Remove the pinch bolt and the large steering stem nut and wiggle the top clamp off....while holding the lower triple...... Note the orientation and order the large O-Ring and the dust cup on the top are situated.

The lower triple and stem combo will drop out.

Once I remove the nut on the bottom of the clamp I was fully expecting I'd have to rig up a way to chock the clamp in my arbor press to press the stem out of the lower clamp. Just to see if it would work, I took a dead blow hammer and tapped on the triple to see if the stem would work itself free. It did after a dozen easy taps.

I froze the stem with a cold propellent-driven lubricant which shrunk it just enough it allowed me to fit the stem into place by hand.

Dirty
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:49 AM   #12690
dad2bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post
Well the bike ran perfectly, aside from one thing.
The odometer reset itself. I unplugged a few things around the battery so I guess that is the reason. Is this something only a dealer can fix, and will the computer know how many km I do after the reset and from before hand?

Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk
This looks like an issue with the smaller instrument cluster. I haven't heard of any of the larger units with Tach have the issue.

When I first bought my '09 I tore the bike down leaving the cables unplugged for 2 weeks. Had the same thing happen. It was goofy since it ONLY zeroed the ODO not the tripmeters.
Being as I just bought the bike I had that odo reading written down. It came in kinda handy for me as I run a logbook in the tankbag. All my work started at 0.
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