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Old 12-14-2013, 11:05 PM   #12706
travelingaustralian
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Off to South America
Oddometer: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by AccelRus MaxiMus View Post
Ummm... Me thinks you mean Leo Vince ?

The logo on the pipe looks a lot like this one:

http://www.riderforums.com/zr-7-perf...tml#post535732



BTW - like your work area - looks warm and relaxed !!

That would be the one! I have know idea why I said Vance and Hines? Probably because I had one on my other bike?
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:32 AM   #12707
mezcal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monterey_BS View Post
Happened to me at 878mi. Bad battery in my case. Battery replaced under warranty. Dealer offered to send the unit to KTM to be reset to correct values, but it could take several weeks to get it back. They said they were not authorized to make any changes. My solution was to add 878 to the mileage formula in my cost spreadsheet for the bike.
Bugger sounds like an easy fix isn't going to happen.
Ill call the bike shop tomorrow. Thanks for the reply

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Old 12-15-2013, 12:42 AM   #12708
MeinMotorrad
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: In between Velez Rubio and Huercal Overa, Spain.
Oddometer: 820
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelingaustralian View Post
After buying my new ktm 690R almost 6 months ago while still living and working down in Antarctica, I had a chance to ride it for the first time. Can anyone suggest a good tuner in the Melbourne area? Bike is running like crap! On the Advanced setting it stalls runs rough and dangerous off idle with the bike stalling and locking up the rear wheel. It has had mapping installed to suit the changed exhaust and air intake.
I see you still have the stock snorkel, this is likely where your idling problems are coming from. Take a look throughout the ECU Thread here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657. Quite a few mods to the stock snorkel. What filter are you using?

It's worthwhile getting TuneECU (it's free) and the relevant cables, this will let you see what fault codes are being logged by your ecu. I saw when I was editing the quote that you are using a Mac - TuneECU is windows only so you will have to partition your drive and install a version of windows, this means you need an external HD to back up onto. I'd get Win7 if you can, avoid Win8 at all costs.

When you reinstalled the air box how did you route the throttle cables, under or over the front r/h air box mounting bolt? If you've got bar risers fitted this may have put the cables under strain - there are other here with more knowledge than me on that topic though.

Another thought: when you were following the RR instructions did you undo the throttle cables to thread them through the r/h plastic frame guard? Many here, myself included just cut the guard, more quick and simple. Again, TuneECU will tell you of problems here.
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:51 AM   #12709
ktmmitch
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stalling

Quote:
Originally Posted by travelingaustralian View Post
That would be the one! I have know idea why I said Vance and Hines? Probably because I had one on my other bike?
We have had problems with slow running with Leo Vince fitted, even after using Tuneboy re mapping.
Do you have anyone near with a different silencer to try?
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:53 AM   #12710
travelingaustralian
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Location: Off to South America
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
I see you still have the stock snorkel, this is likely where your idling problems are coming from. Take a look throughout the ECU Thread here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657. Quite a few mods to the stock snorkel. What filter are you using?

It's worthwhile getting TuneECU (it's free) and the relevant cables, this will let you see what fault codes are being logged by your ecu. I saw when I was editing the quote that you are using a Mac - TuneECU is windows only so you will have to partition your drive and install a version of windows, this means you need an external HD to back up onto. I'd get Win7 if you can, avoid Win8 at all costs.

When you reinstalled the air box how did you route the throttle cables, under or over the front r/h air box mounting bolt? If you've got bar risers fitted this may have put the cables under strain - there are other here with more knowledge than me on that topic though.

Another thought: when you were following the RR instructions did you undo the throttle cables to thread them through the r/h plastic frame guard? Many here, myself included just cut the guard, more quick and simple. Again, TuneECU will tell you of problems here.
MeinMotorrad,

Thanks for the info. The bike is running a K&N filter with the top of the air box drilled to allow extra air into it. I want to change this and fit the open filter box. I ran the cables above the air box r/h mount. I've inverted the throttle body 180deg because I have fitted the bar rasers this gave the extra cable required. I did the same as you and cut the plastic cover to remover it.
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:49 AM   #12711
dirty_sanchez
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Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTheMan07 View Post
To remove the steering stem from the lower triple you have to pound it out, if you dont have a press. Its a tight fit putting it back in. So i think he put the stem in the freezer to get it to shrink slightly to make it easier to press, or pound back in the lower triple. Mine took significant persuading to remove and put back in place. Didn't try the freezer thing, it might have helped.
The stem on your bike sounded pretty darned tight. Mine was pretty snug but far from needing to chock it up in the bearing press in order to press it out from the lower triple.

Knowing a better order of removal now that I've done the job I'd get the wheel, forks, fender, bars/clamp off of the bike, loosen but don't remove the large nut on the under side of the lower triple. Remove the pinch bolt and the large steering stem nut and wiggle the top clamp off....while holding the lower triple...... Note the orientation and order the large O-Ring and the dust cup on the top are situated.

The lower triple and stem combo will drop out.

Once I remove the nut on the bottom of the clamp I was fully expecting I'd have to rig up a way to chock the clamp in my arbor press to press the stem out of the lower clamp. Just to see if it would work, I took a dead blow hammer and tapped on the triple to see if the stem would work itself free. It did after a dozen easy taps.

I froze the stem with a cold propellent-driven lubricant which shrunk it just enough it allowed me to fit the stem into place by hand.

Dirty
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:49 AM   #12712
dad2bike
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post
Well the bike ran perfectly, aside from one thing.
The odometer reset itself. I unplugged a few things around the battery so I guess that is the reason. Is this something only a dealer can fix, and will the computer know how many km I do after the reset and from before hand?

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This looks like an issue with the smaller instrument cluster. I haven't heard of any of the larger units with Tach have the issue.

When I first bought my '09 I tore the bike down leaving the cables unplugged for 2 weeks. Had the same thing happen. It was goofy since it ONLY zeroed the ODO not the tripmeters.
Being as I just bought the bike I had that odo reading written down. It came in kinda handy for me as I run a logbook in the tankbag. All my work started at 0.
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:56 AM   #12713
MeinMotorrad
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Location: In between Velez Rubio and Huercal Overa, Spain.
Oddometer: 820
390 Duke SM

I know it's off topic but the 390 Duke SM has been spotted which I know will be of interest given the 690 Enduro grew out of the SM.

A lighter, smaller, cheaper endure in the future?
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:59 AM   #12714
RoninMoto
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Location: Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
I know it's off topic but the 390 Duke SM has been spotted which I know will be of interest given the 690 Enduro grew out of the SM.

A lighter, smaller, cheaper endure in the future?
They showed the 390/200/125 RC (rocket) at the auto shows this fall. The rumor is that they will make a 390/200/125 sm and enduro in the coming years. Fingers crossed.
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:31 AM   #12715
sdd04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
The stem on your bike sounded pretty darned tight. Mine was pretty snug but far from needing to chock it up in the bearing press in order to press it out from the lower triple.

Knowing a better order of removal now that I've done the job I'd get the wheel, forks, fender, bars/clamp off of the bike, loosen but don't remove the large nut on the under side of the lower triple. Remove the pinch bolt and the large steering stem nut and wiggle the top clamp off....while holding the lower triple...... Note the orientation and order the large O-Ring and the dust cup on the top are situated.

The lower triple and stem combo will drop out.

Once I remove the nut on the bottom of the clamp I was fully expecting I'd have to rig up a way to chock the clamp in my arbor press to press the stem out of the lower clamp. Just to see if it would work, I took a dead blow hammer and tapped on the triple to see if the stem would work itself free. It did after a dozen easy taps.

I froze the stem with a cold propellent-driven lubricant which shrunk it just enough it allowed me to fit the stem into place by hand.

Dirty
Are you still happy with the swap-any negatives?
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:57 AM   #12716
Arzach
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Location: Not the Caribbean anymore . Think rain .
Oddometer: 309
Quote:
Originally Posted by sieg View Post
Dealer called me today.......mid-January shipment.
Then I guess it is time to order rally kit and other goodies
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:49 AM   #12717
crankshaft OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
That's essentially what I did too (and told Uller about), but started from a full SC seat, a bit of a spendy way to do it. The "log" shape foam just didn't suit me. Renazco is just finishing up mine right now. The SC seat pan is really nice, thicker plastic that seems like black PE and a little flexible, should last a long time.

Welcome back Crank!
Thanks Cliff! So been daydreaming again, which always gets me in trouble... I'm getting my 690 ready for an endurance ice race in January and I was looking at improving the steering a bit. Anyone messed with the geometry at all, or moved the radiator? I have a brand new set of fluiddyne radiators for a 450 RFS bike (longer and thicker). Might also make it easier to add another fan, like the dirt tricks unit. Thoughts?
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:56 AM   #12718
dirty_sanchez
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Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdd04 View Post
Are you still happy with the swap-any negatives?
It was a good swap. 2 hours well spent in the shop. High Interstate speeds are now much more stable. Not "640A Stable", but much much better.

At this point I think the pancake flipper sized front sail of a front fender flops wiggles and vibrates hither and yon and is the reason for the season at this point.

The steering is supposed to feel slower on the turns-I can't really tell a difference, but the twitchyness doesn't seem near as bad.

Dirty
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:26 PM   #12719
mezcal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
This looks like an issue with the smaller instrument cluster. I haven't heard of any of the larger units with Tach have the issue.

When I first bought my '09 I tore the bike down leaving the cables unplugged for 2 weeks. Had the same thing happen. It was goofy since it ONLY zeroed the ODO not the tripmeters.
Being as I just bought the bike I had that odo reading written down. It came in kinda handy for me as I run a logbook in the tankbag. All my work started at 0.
Mine went out at 12100km, maybe a little more but it wasn't over 12200 I know that much. I have paperwork for the 10000km service done in Sept this year so when I come to sell it eventually that will be enough evidence for the new owner.
Mine was the same, trip meters were fine but it did reset the clock.
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:36 PM   #12720
Velociraptor
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Mine did that too on my 2009. Reset itself around 6,000 miles when I disconnected the battery. So I have it in my maintenance spreadsheet. Only did it once.
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