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Old 01-03-2014, 12:03 PM   #226
Horizontal
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Jerry ~

On that video you can see some wear marks on the flywheel from some previous ass-hattery; don't know if the posters in the vid are responsible or not. The manual says to hold the flywheel to remove the drive face, so I don't see why they are putting pressure on those fins to begin with, but that's the Internet for you.
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:47 PM   #227
JerryH
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I definitely agree it is not a good idea to apply any force to the fins. But the Vino 125 has two holes in the front face, which is where the holding tool goes. I used the rear face to hold it, which is way stronger than the front, which seems about as fragile as a potato chip.
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:57 PM   #228
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I'm curious if there would be any way of holding the drive end steady from the alternator side? On the Aero it seems possible.
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:39 PM   #229
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Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
You're right, the rollers are supposed to be greased. Glad to hear that you think they'll be OK. I'm looking at about a week until my parts come, so I'll guess I'll just ride till then. Lucky me.

Thanks to you and the others who answered my gasket question. And glad the gasket isn't super-important. I'm happy to leave it be, then.
With the two different types of scooters I've had so far, grease was a no-no in the variator. I've done no research on your aero 125, but I can't imagine grease in an area where it could get thrown on the belt!
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:55 PM   #230
DaBinChe
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Originally Posted by bikeridermark View Post
With the two different types of scooters I've had so far, grease was a no-no in the variator. I've done no research on your aero 125, but I can't imagine grease in an area where it could get thrown on the belt!
On many of those 80's era honda they had grease in the variator/rollers. There is a cap with an oring over the back plate of the variator that keeps all the grease contained. This prolongs the life of the rollers to an incredible amount compared to a dry setup. Don't know why do don't do it anymore, works great.
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:59 PM   #231
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gitsum ~

I've seen little paint marks on various nuts and bolts on previous bikes and wondered why they were there, as they didn't seem to be serving any "lock-tite" function. I thought it might be some sort of PO Voodoo.

Now I know...

BTW, I just ordered this, so now I have something else to wait for before tearing into my CVT project:

http://www.harborfreight.com/adjusta...nch-36554.html

Went to Andy's, my local trusty auto parts store but they didn't carry anything like it. Closest thing they had for my purposes was a strap wrench or a oil filter wrench. For $5.00, I decided to go with what I ordered.
looking back at your pic of the variator I don't see a spot for the pins of the pin tool to fit into...so not sure if that would work for the variator, maybe the clutch bell if it has holes like most clutch bells do.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:09 PM   #232
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Originally Posted by DaBinChe View Post
On many of those 80's era honda they had grease in the variator/rollers. There is a cap with an oring over the back plate of the variator that keeps all the grease contained. This prolongs the life of the rollers to an incredible amount compared to a dry setup. Don't know why do don't do it anymore, works great.
Huh, OK. I can't imagine a variator working smoothly with grease in there, but it must have worked.
I've got about 20,000 miles on the sliders in each of my Relexes, and they seem to be fine so far. Will weigh them at next belt change.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:34 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBinChe View Post
On many of those 80's era honda they had grease in the variator/rollers. There is a cap with an oring over the back plate of the variator that keeps all the grease contained. This prolongs the life of the rollers to an incredible amount compared to a dry setup. Don't know why do don't do it anymore, works great.
The one I am working on has a lot of years on it-29- but only 12,000 miles. Lots of grease in the variator, but also ground up spacers and a chipped roller. It did sit for 17 years, maybe that did the spacers in. I have been advised to leave it dry with new rollers or sliders. I have to chuckle though, I bought this scooter new, and also bought the shop manual and the service tools for holding the variator and the clutch. From what I am reading, I wonder if I am the only one who did. The variator tool works really well. I will see about the universal holder. They cost me 30 bucks each.
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:49 AM   #234
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It looks like grease would make the rollers stick, but I believe the rollers on these older scooters are quite a bit heavier than on newer scooters. Seems I remember someone saying the rollers were 16G. Maybe that's why.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:46 AM   #235
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From the NH125 manual:

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Old 01-05-2014, 01:31 PM   #236
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I'm curious if there would be any way of holding the drive end steady from the alternator side? On the Aero it seems possible.
I keep a section of braided nylon rope in my tool box to lock the piston so I can remove variators and such. Just remove the spark plug and feed the rope into the cylinder. You can rotate the engine and use the rope to tell where the piston is on it's stroke. Just feed about a foot or so of the rope into the bore and the the piston will rest against it allowing you to remove the variator.
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:44 PM   #237
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Originally Posted by Goofaroo View Post
I keep a section of braided nylon rope in my tool box to lock the piston so I can remove variators and such. Just remove the spark plug and feed the rope into the cylinder. You can rotate the engine and use the rope to tell where the piston is on it's stroke. Just feed about a foot or so of the rope into the bore and the the piston will rest against it allowing you to remove the variator.

You sir have a bright idea. I have never done this on a scooter, but have done it on a few motorcycles, and hundreds of small engines, like those on landscape equipment. Never had an issue. I'm not sure just how fragile a scooter engine is, I can just see bending the rod or something. I learned this technique about 40 years ago. And the old guy who showed it to me learned it as a kid. So it has been around a long time.
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:21 PM   #238
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I've been doing it for years as well and never a problem. You can buy a device that is intended to do the same thing that is just a metal post that threads into the spark plug hole but I was afraid that the metal could damage the top of the piston.
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:51 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofaroo View Post
I keep a section of braided nylon rope in my tool box to lock the piston so I can remove variators and such. Just remove the spark plug and feed the rope into the cylinder. You can rotate the engine and use the rope to tell where the piston is on it's stroke. Just feed about a foot or so of the rope into the bore and the the piston will rest against it allowing you to remove the variator.
My younger brother suggested I do that when I was changing the timing belt and water pump on my Escort. Just on one cylinder. I used polyester cord and it worked well. The piston is made to bear a great deal of distributed force, like for instance burning gasoline.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:54 PM   #240
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Originally Posted by Goofaroo View Post
I've been doing it for years as well and never a problem. You can buy a device that is intended to do the same thing that is just a metal post that threads into the spark plug hole but I was afraid that the metal could damage the top of the piston.
This is a small engine shop trick that's been around for a while. It's similar to the screw-in sparkplug-hole piston stop, but without the potential of damaging the top of the piston crown. And because some engine's spark plug holes are angled, those type of 'stops' don't work with them.
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