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Old 12-08-2013, 10:02 AM   #916
crazydrummerdude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasVolomitz View Post
My question is, what do I do with the wiring harness that leads out of the bottom of the original headlight case and how do I go about plugging in the headlight to the original bucket?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
From my de-Vetter'ing, you have to:
-trace all those wires back to where they go (I can already spot a few of them with those blue connectors),
-un-splice/unplug them,
-pull out the Luftmeister wiring harness,
-put in a proper headlight harness (and maybe turn signal harness if it's been cut up too much).

It's actually really easy.
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:22 AM   #917
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Thank you. I figured it out and it was easy, even for me.
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:14 PM   #918
crazydrummerdude
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Just a reminder..

Last night, I replaced a bad rotor. It had been a few years since my last one, and I didn't remember that the stator winding and grey "cover" (with the electrical connections) were one unit (as shown on the left). I was trying to separate the two.

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Old 01-27-2014, 07:48 PM   #919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
Just a reminder..

Last night, I replaced a bad rotor. It had been a few years since my last one, and I didn't remember that the stator winding and grey "cover" (with the electrical connections) were one unit (as shown on the left). I was trying to separate the two.
On my '92 GS they actually do come apart but it takes some effort. I had to separate them when I upgraded my charging system to the EME. You have to unsolder the stock stator, remove it from the cover, install the new EME stator, then solder the new stator output wiring to the cover.

Dave
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:36 PM   #920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StmbtDave View Post
On my '92 GS they actually do come apart but it takes some effort. I had to separate them when I upgraded my charging system to the EME. You have to unsolder the stock stator, remove it from the cover, install the new EME stator, then solder the new stator output wiring to the cover.

Dave
Ah, well, yes. If you un-solder them, they will come apart, but during a regular rotor swap, you don't need to do that.
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:03 PM   #921
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Bing Tip of the Day

Several days ago I fired up the R80 ST in the garage just to run it warm enough to idle without the choke since I hadn't ridden it in two weeks. Everything was fine for a few minutes then suddenly one cylinder started trying to drop out.

Couple of days later checked the plugs - looked good. Opened carbs to check diaphrams and clean out all the passages with spray cleaner. I've had the idle circuit and other stuff get gunked up before from oil vapors from the breather condensing at the carb. Usually the left one. Even pulled the idle mix screws to check O-rings and blow out the idle circuits from that end.

Put it back together, rode to full op temp. Tried to set up and synch the carbs and discovered the idle mix screw on the left carb had no effect - closed to wide open, nada.

Thinking back through the process, I had failed to clean the idle jets themselves. This evening pulled the idle jet from the left carb - sure enough it was gunked up. Cleaned & reinstalled. Only had time to start it but it sounds right and only needs the sync steps repeated after tweaking the idle mix screws.

So the TIP: If the mix screw does nothing, suspect clogged idle jet long with all related passages. Don't just spray it. Easy enough to pull with the carb in place and make sure it gets clean.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:27 AM   #922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark1305 View Post
Several days ago I fired up the R80 ST in the garage just to run it warm enough to idle without the choke since I hadn't ridden it in two weeks. Everything was fine for a few minutes then suddenly one cylinder started trying to drop out.

. . .

So the TIP: If the mix screw does nothing, suspect clogged idle jet long with all related passages. Don't just spray it. Easy enough to pull with the carb in place and make sure it gets clean.
Which one is the idle jet?

Do you have a pic?

Thanks.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:20 AM   #923
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This may not be the vintage you have but they are all very similar. The idle jet is #3, it has an O-ring #2. Idle mixture is #5 and another #2 O-ring (they have the same # because they are the same size.) The needle jet is #9. The main jet is #13.

Maybe it would be a good idea to take the carbs off and give them a good cleaning. Have a rebuild kit on hand because some parts don't make it through the cleaning sometimes. Replace the O-rings and gaskets. Would be a good idea to have a manual for this job.

We haven't had a carburetor rebuild thread in sometime and others may be itching to do this also.
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:08 PM   #924
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The 11 ribbed rubber gaiters used on non-G/S bikes work quite well on G/S bikes. You don't need the plastic rings on top of the forks for those boots. One trick to align the breather holes on top of the clamp is to slide a thin zip tie from above into the reed and past the boot's breather hole.
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Old 03-01-2014, 01:35 PM   #925
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Bent my aluminum rear brake lever at the bevel drive (rear drive) from bouncing off a rock. I clamped it up in the vise and promptly broke it trying to straighten it. I dug around in my junk and found one from my Honda CB 450, it went straight on the splines of the brake shaft. No tapping, filing or messing about,...... straight on.

Just in case anybody else has a need.
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:27 AM   #926
Jim K in PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokie View Post
Bent my aluminum rear brake lever at the bevel drive (rear drive) from bouncing off a rock. I clamped it up in the vise and promptly broke it trying to straighten it. I dug around in my junk and found one from my Honda CB 450, it went straight on the splines of the brake shaft. No tapping, filing or messing about,...... straight on.

Just in case anybody else has a need.
Dang, Pokie. You need to post this up in the "how to flip the brake lever" thread. Jenna and I were debating the need to flip the lever to avoid just what happened to you.

Good tip for an alternate to the 'kraut part.
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Old 03-16-2014, 05:48 PM   #927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patanga View Post
Just loaded this tech tip on our web page. Thought you guys might be interested. The speedo cable boot is often neglected and is a common source of water contamination in to the gearbox. Easy enough to do for the experts but can be a pain for the less experienced. A quick & simple method. http://rter.co.nz/Airheads/airhead_t...ocableboot.pdf
Clever, bump-worthy advice.
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:38 PM   #928
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I haven't had a chance to run through the past sixty two pages, so if this has been previously covered, scuse me.

The charging system hasn't been doing its job well lately, '76 r90/6, not really charging at all, so a major diagnostic session was in order. Rotor checked out fine, Stator, too, and so did the Diode board. My brother's visiting, and he did the honors. I had previously put in new brushes and an electronic voltage breaker.

Turns out that the heat sink on the diode board wasn't grounding well. A little grounding wire from the heat sink to a bolt hole just above the alternator body and now the battery is getting 13.3 v. And the bike is running much better!

Kind of a break through day on the old mongrel!
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:28 AM   #929
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Quick Fix - Neutral Light Diode /6

Posting this here for easy reference after having first posted in general Airheads section.

This might be covered elsewhere. Might be very obvious to most folks. Might not be a good long-term solution. But here's a quick fix I used to get my R90/6 functioning right again for about $1 and in 20 minutes.

The Problem - Neutral light would come on whenever I squeezed clutch lever, whether I was in a gear or not.

Diagnosis - Several posts suggested it was the diode behind the fuse block in the headlight shell that was shorted. This diode connects terminal 85b to terminal LKK, and prevents the neutral light from reaching ground unless just neutral switch is closed. I had just finished clumsily diagnosing a bad starter relay, so suspect I fried the diode.

Real Fix - Sources told me to remove the fuse block and solder in a new diode. Simple enough, but that means unplugging and keeping track of all those wires in the headlight bucket. And since yesterday was the first day with weather/roads nice enough to ride, I didn't like the idea of tearing into it.

Quick Fix - Bought a new diode (3a, 400v) at Radio Shack. Crimped a male spade connector to one end and a female to the other. (NOTE: direction matters with diodes - I believe I put the male connector at the end of the diode with the band on it.) Unplugged double brown/black wires at terminal LKK, attached diode, reconnected double wires to end of diode.

Ta da! Neutral light on only when in neutral.


EDIT: Linky to lousy pics! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...56&postcount=6

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Old 04-08-2014, 10:37 AM   #930
Bill Harris
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Originally Posted by LonerDave View Post
Ta da! Neutral light on only when in neutral.
Bravo. Good fix! The diode IIRC, is numbered 1N4001 (a 1A diode, your 3A will work).

--Bill
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