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Old 01-30-2014, 08:00 AM   #16141
Dekatria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie92j View Post
I havent found any i like just yet

Plus they are not needed in the UK to drive on the road
Alright

By the bye, your chain looks like it could use a bit of tightening... or is it just to compensate for the extra height/length of the swingarm?
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:08 PM   #16142
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Originally Posted by Clockwatcher View Post
I have been using the MotoBatt........going on 5 yrs........a little hard to find but worth the effort.......

http://www.motobatt.com/

Like anything else some like them, others dont.......your choice
Nice, I was looking for an AGM battery for the 'Alp yesterday. Strange that Yuasa doesn't spec one for this model.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:54 PM   #16143
TRBaron
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Originally Posted by Dekatria View Post
Alright

By the bye, your chain looks like it could use a bit of tightening... or is it just to compensate for the extra height/length of the swingarm?
Thats what it'll be.
when that suspension compresses fully that chain will tighten significantly.
even with stock setup you want about 50mm of play in the chain else you'll be putting a lot of stress on the output shaft when the suspension compresses.
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:25 PM   #16144
TransAfrika
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Originally Posted by TRBaron View Post
Thats what it'll be.
when that suspension compresses fully that chain will tighten significantly.
even with stock setup you want about 50mm of play in the chain else you'll be putting a lot of stress on the output shaft when the suspension compresses.

That is the biggest Problem when you want to enhance the ground clearance.
You could change many things in the suspension but the chain travel area and the slag is the thing that is fix. It would be great when there where an ability to mount and an auto chain tightener, that adjust it for normal drive and be flexible
when it goes off the road and the suspension goes over all travel range.
Some tried to fix this with chain rolls to save the swingarm but it is not so easy i think.

In Germany it is not allowed to melt on the frame so ......
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:54 AM   #16145
jamie92j
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It was pretty slack in that picture!

I always prefer to run my chain on the slack side

I carry a tool to tighten it on the trail if required

The ground clearance isn't increased drastically so the chain doesn't rub more then normal

I think i can get away with lifting the rear more without major problems
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:38 AM   #16146
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I often wonder if there is a way to design the swingarm mount on the same axis as the output shaft, would eliminate the problem completely.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:02 AM   #16147
Ladder106
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Quote:
is a way to design the swingarm mount on the same axis as the output shaft
Yes there is. G450X BMW





So why don't all builders do this since it makes so much sense? Like Rosanna sez..."It's always sumpthin"

The main problem here is strength vs. width. You'll notice that many off-road bikes - if set up correctly - have their foot pegs right about at the swingarm pivot point.

Putting the swingarm pivot right at the CS sprocket means some fancy bearings have to be used to provide adequate strength and stiffness in the frame. This can increase the overall width of the machine right at a point where narrow is better.

It's OK to do this with a narrow engine but when you start getting higher displacement, the cases tend to widen out at the CS sprocket.

I'm sure there's also a cost and service concern here that I know nothing about.

Retrofitting this to your TA would cause a major redesign of the suspension linkage system since changing pivot point locations will alter the suspension geometry.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:47 AM   #16148
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Oh yeah I'd never suggest a retro fit like that, just that there has to be a decent solution for new bikes with an off-road orientation.

Could be interesting to see what could be done with a pair of thompson couplings [like a CV joint but without the power sapping characteristics] and a shaft drive.
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:23 AM   #16149
raoulserban
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My Alp :)
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more pics under https://www.facebook.com/raoul.o.ser...8877693&type=3




raoulserban screwed with this post 02-02-2014 at 11:43 AM
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:04 PM   #16150
R_Rick
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Spokes

I pulled apart my front wheel yesterday to get it ready for a respoke. My plan was to take a couple out of each position and mark them so I can match up the correct length / position when my new set arrives. Unfortunately, I was only able to loosen the nipples from one side / position (speedo, outside) and had to take the grinder to the remaining leaving me with a pile of half spokes.

Can someone fill me in on the size combination? Are the speedo outer the same length as the rotor side outer? Are they the longest? Some other combo?

Thanks

R_Rick screwed with this post 02-08-2014 at 11:48 AM Reason: Had sprocket's on my mind for some reason ... dealing with front wheel, so speedo and rotor sides ;)
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Old 02-02-2014, 05:00 PM   #16151
mgorman
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Originally Posted by Galba View Post





I have this same centerstand in this photo laying in my garage but doesn't fit. What year is it actually made for? I haven't decided if I am going to try to make it work or not.
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:19 AM   #16152
mas335
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In the Flea Market 4,280 miles


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Old 02-03-2014, 10:23 AM   #16153
jwb
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In the Flea Market 4,280 miles


Wut m8? Amazing.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:25 AM   #16154
jwb
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Oh, you MAKE them.

I thought you were saying you found a minter in a flea market.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:49 AM   #16155
mikejohn
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Originally Posted by mgorman View Post
I have this same centerstand in this photo laying in my garage but doesn't fit. What year is it actually made for? I haven't decided if I am going to try to make it work or not.
If you decide not to use it, what would you ask for it?
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