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Old 01-06-2014, 05:43 PM   #16
Onederer
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Baha
Oddometer: 704
My opinion is that you have done a tasteful job on the bike thus far. Flat black often says the builder gave up, don't. Even (quality) rattle can paint can look very nice on such a small area if the proper prep is done.

Just a heads-up, the primary drive is a chain type with rubber dampers. If you experience a jerking feeling during power in gear, it's the likely culprit. I have no idea of a new parts source, but if you plan to keep the bike you may want to look into it. The horizontially split cases may allow you to repair any of it without a complete engine tear down.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:04 PM   #17
riverfever OP
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Thank you and, I agree. Flat black would be a waste. The bike came with a 500 side cover and a 550 side cover (that was cracked badly). So I've been trying to locate another 500 cover which I found last night. I was down in the garage verifying it before I bought it on ebay and I couldn't help but look at the tank some. I'm unhappy with it. There's just too many inconsistencies in the knee dents. I think they would look horribly when painted. This was a hard first project for body work. I'd still like to make it work but I think I'm gonna step away for a bit. I had been using a smaller sanding block to work on the convex portions of the tank but I have been using my hands on the knee dents and I think that's why there's so many issues there. I couldn't sleep last night so I started trying to figure out what else I could use in that area to help (maybe PVC with sand paper around it just to be more uniform?). For now I'm going to work on the side covers (sanding them out, filling in the holes where the badges mount, etc.) and then when it's a bit warmer go back to the tank. It might just need a bit more filler in the knee dents but I see no point putting more in unless I have a different/better way to work it down so it's even. Open to suggestions.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:18 PM   #18
TSSRA
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like your Honda... i have a '78 Suzuki GS750 awaiting the same redemption. I used to build GS750/1000s from wrecks back in the eighties. It's been awhile. Your update has inspired me to get started on the GS. Thanks.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:10 AM   #19
Flipczak
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Location: Harrison Twp., Michigan
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Well done on your build. I love the look of the original four into four cocktail shaker exhaust pipes. The big speedo and tach fit with overall look of the bike. Maybe rebuild them with some darker face plates and some LED backlight's. Where did you find the braided brake line to fit your master cylinder?
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:04 PM   #20
riverfever OP
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Thanks guys. I'm flattered to have inspired anyone to get a build going. This has been really fun. Wish I had started this sooner in life but it's a great new hobby.

As much as I'd like to run a more simplified 4-1 exhaust (purely for looks), I do kinda like the way the stock pipes look and they are in remarkably good shape. I have plans to replace the gauges with some smaller 2.5" ones in black. I went back and forth on the hose for a while between Slingshot Cycles and Carpy (cb750cafe). Carpy does a lot of stuff with the 750 and the piece where the front brake switch mounts is vertically mounted on the lower tree where it's horizontally mounted on my bike. I was worried that his line would be too short but took the chance. It's close but it works. I've thought about grinding the tabs down and mounting it the other way and freeing up some slack in the line but haven't gotten around to it yet.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:38 PM   #21
mrbreeze
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Location: God's Country
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You are doing an awesome job! I can't wait to see the finished product. Being a school teacher, you must be busy. How do you find the time?
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:42 PM   #22
riverfever OP
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Thanks very much. My job is incredibly busy and most nights I'm at school until 6 so I don't get a whole lot done on the project during the week but do find time on the weekends to get into the garage. I did manage to run down to our metals classroom right after school to add a little tab to the plate relocation bracket so that if the one bolt holding it on comes loose the bracket and plate won't end up in the spokes. This only took about 20 minutes and then...time to make more donuts.

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Old 02-08-2014, 06:08 PM   #23
riverfever OP
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I decided to start working on this project again. Here's how things looked this morning. Kind of a catastrophe.



I got new gauges from Dime City Cycles. These will be a lot nicer than the big green stock ones.

Because these gauges are smaller, I had to re-work the ignition plate that I made a while ago. Looks better this way. Eventually I will paint it.



I got the gauges wired up and they seem to be fine. I don't have turn signals right now so I capped the wire for that led.



I aso ordered a left side control because the previous owner stripped this bike pretty well. I was going to drill the bars and run the wires through it but the harness is rather big and I didn't think it would be all that safe.



Wiring up this switch has been a pain. I do have a diagram for the 550 and I have a diagram for the switch but things are still a bit unclear for me. This is the diagram on the package.



When I got the bike, the headlight would turn on with the key but I did not have a hi beam. I got the horn mounted and wired up (that was easy). It doesn't work yet but I think that's because the switch itself doesn't have power yet. I have no clue what T/S main wire means (#5). Maybe this is the wire that powers the entire switch? I also have no clue what the H/L (headlight?) main wire would connect to. Coming off the headlight is just a low beam wire, hi beam wire, and a ground. Parking light? Can I assume that I don't have these because I don't have blinkers? That leaves the kill switch main and ground which I really don't care about hooking up as I'm fine with just turning off the key. Can anyone be of help here?
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:34 PM   #24
16VGTIDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverfever View Post
When I got the bike, the headlight would turn on with the key but I did not have a hi beam. I got the horn mounted and wired up (that was easy). It doesn't work yet but I think that's because the switch itself doesn't have power yet. I have no clue what T/S main wire means (#5). Maybe this is the wire that powers the entire switch? I also have no clue what the H/L (headlight?) main wire would connect to. Coming off the headlight is just a low beam wire, hi beam wire, and a ground. Parking light? Can I assume that I don't have these because I don't have blinkers? That leaves the kill switch main and ground which I really don't care about hooking up as I'm fine with just turning off the key. Can anyone be of help here?
T/S Main would typically be connected to the wire from the flasher relay.
H/L Main would be from the headlight fuse, and this provides power to either the low or high beam depending on the switch position.
Kill switch may be required for your local safety inspection. It usually also kills the electric start and may cause you grief if not hooked up. Good idea to connect it up now while you are there.

You are making great progress, keep at it and you will be riding soon!
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:56 PM   #25
riverfever OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16VGTIDave View Post
T/S Main would typically be connected to the wire from the flasher relay.
H/L Main would be from the headlight fuse, and this provides power to either the low or high beam depending on the switch position.
Kill switch may be required for your local safety inspection. It usually also kills the electric start and may cause you grief if not hooked up. Good idea to connect it up now while you are there.

You are making great progress, keep at it and you will be riding soon!
OK...I do see a gray wire in the headlight bucket that comes from the turn signal relay that has nothing connected to it which makes sense but since I don't have turn signals yet I'll just sit on it.

I'm confused on the H/L main though. Both wires at the fuse that controls the HL are red and there is nothing red in the headlight bucket. This is frustrating.
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:58 PM   #26
riverfever OP
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And I just realized you were 16VGTI. One of my favorite motors. My brother and I had an N/A one set up with SDS EFI. That thing was silly. And we had it in a 4 door Golf.
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:17 PM   #27
riverfever OP
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Well I finally got most of the wiring figured out. All that's left is to run wires for the turn signals and figure out how to wire the kill switch. I also need to remove the left side cover and verify that the wire for the oil pressure sensor is connected. I think the sensor is bad though. Next up is repairing all of the wiring harness and then re-wrapping it.

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Old 04-17-2014, 08:26 PM   #28
riverfever OP
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Been a while since I updated this thread.

Here is the tank after a lot of work.





Bikes been sitting a while but the other day I went in the garage and turned the key on and had nothing. No lights at all. Motor wouldn't crank. After some looking, it appeared to be a bad battery. I installed a new Yuasa and it fixed the problem. I also got more Works toilet bowl cleaner, acetone and denatured alcohol. Hopefully this weaken I'll get the inside of the tank cleaned again and then I'll line it with Red Kote. Hope to paint soon.

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Old 04-18-2014, 09:56 AM   #29
baldman1
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I like it, what brand and where did you get those gauges, really like them too.
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Old 04-18-2014, 05:57 PM   #30
riverfever OP
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After a lot of looking I finally found a decent set of fender struts and jumped on them. They showed up today. I love the way they transformed the front end. I had considered bobbing the fender but really didn't want to. I dig it.



Baldman...the gauges are from Dime City Cycles.
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