ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-18-2014, 10:57 AM   #3946
sailah
Lampin' it
 
sailah's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Turning expensive metal into scrap
Oddometer: 5,452
Heres the actual stud from leaded steel I was welding.

__________________
We're not out here to rough it. We're here to smooth it . Things are rough enough in town.

Nessmuk
sailah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2014, 12:32 PM   #3947
clintnz
Trans-Global Chook Chaser
 
clintnz's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,369
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post

Does this weld stand a chance in the lightly loaded scenario or should I cut it off and start over? Any recommendations for steel that machines well on a home lathe setup and also welds well? 12l14 sure does turn nicely.
Make up a test piece with the same stuff, take to it with hammer & you should get an idea

I've machined up a few small bushes & things out of 4140 bar then welded it to 4130 tube with good results. On my basic gear, Atlas 10F & hand ground HSS tool, it didn't seem wildly different to mild steel.

No doubt there are specialist grades that are optimised for machining+welding but they don't sell them by the metre at my local engineering supplies store like 4140

Cheers
Clint
__________________
'03 KTM 640 LC4 Enduro

The wilderness, the desert - why are they not crowded
.................................................. .....with pilgrims?
clintnz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2014, 04:02 PM   #3948
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
David R's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: In Da Swamps of WNY
Oddometer: 2,411
I think your welds look good and will be fine. Leaded steel is to lubricate the tool when cutting it. It just turns nice.

I don't think you have a problem.

David
__________________
2012 R1200R ! 2000 R1100RT (retired), 1976 R75/6, 11 Versys
There is a seat for everyone.
David R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2014, 04:23 PM   #3949
sailah
Lampin' it
 
sailah's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Turning expensive metal into scrap
Oddometer: 5,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
I think your welds look good and will be fine. Leaded steel is to lubricate the tool when cutting it. It just turns nice.

I don't think you have a problem.

David

The welds shown are front the dom tubing. Although the leaded steel looks fine to me. I plan on grabbing hold of it and yanking and see what happens. Usually fun stuff I imagine.
__________________
We're not out here to rough it. We're here to smooth it . Things are rough enough in town.

Nessmuk
sailah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2014, 10:44 PM   #3950
Ironwood
Friday Harbor, WA
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Oddometer: 731
In your pic it doesn't look like you are disconnecting the computer. That is #1 whenever I weld on a chassis.
__________________
.
Ironwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2014, 05:31 AM   #3951
sailah
Lampin' it
 
sailah's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Turning expensive metal into scrap
Oddometer: 5,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
In your pic it doesn't look like you are disconnecting the computer. That is #1 whenever I weld on a chassis.
The computer Cdi is under the seat bar, that's a triple set of relays encased in plastic. Right now everything wiring wise is basically disconnected, battery is out etc.
__________________
We're not out here to rough it. We're here to smooth it . Things are rough enough in town.

Nessmuk
sailah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2014, 07:05 AM   #3952
Benesesso
Beastly Adventurer
 
Benesesso's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: West of Phoenix, Arizona
Oddometer: 9,898
Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
I think your welds look good and will be fine. Leaded steel is to lubricate the tool when cutting it. It just turns nice.

I don't think you have a problem.

David
It's the added sulfur that causes problems. If lightly stressed you may get away with it.

Check out #4.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...stainless.html
__________________
US out of the UN, UN out of the US.
Benesesso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2014, 09:10 AM   #3953
KTM640Dakar OP
Motorsick
 
KTM640Dakar's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Oxbow Lake
Oddometer: 2,036
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
Heres the actual stud from leaded steel I was welding.

Free machining steels usually contain too much lead and sulphur to weld. The problem with them is that the lead and sulfur migrate to the grain boundaries of the matrix and freeze last. Since lead tends to be much lower strength than steel you get a weak line in your weld. If the sulfur does not crack the weld initially the lead will be where a crack will appear if put under force. So don't use free machining steels if you need to weld them. Max sulfur is .014% or .14% if I recall. Phosphorous and lead are similarly bad.
__________________
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

It is not the destination, it's the journey.
KTM640Dakar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2014, 09:20 AM   #3954
KTM640Dakar OP
Motorsick
 
KTM640Dakar's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Oxbow Lake
Oddometer: 2,036
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxmike View Post
my home 110 MIG is giving me fits. has anyone ever had the wire arc right before it goes into the liner?! the miller rep who comes to my shop at least once week looked at me like I had three heads when I told him. he is going to comp me a new liner for it but I really don't think its the problem.

this thing has maybe had 2-3 max 10# spools run through it I highly doubt the liner is worn and it was always in a clean environment at least clean for a welder.

I used the thing to weld up a new welding table like 2 months ago and it worked great. went out to weld up some steel targets for this past weekend and this happens. in 10+ years of welding I have never seen this.

It sounds like you are having a wire feeling problem. Start by using a new tip. Your should be able to feed wire against your glove without the wire stopping. If it does check that your drive roll tension is set properly and the hub holding the reel of wire is not too tight as to cause too much drag on the drive rolls. Your gun liner is probably the culprit as they tend to load up with dirt and dust and hold the wire from feeding freely. The last recommendation is to buy good welding wire. I have seem a lot of off shore brands that have inconsistent diameters or have too much lube on them that makes feeding tough. I recommend Lincoln Electric L-56 for mild steel welding. It is make in the USA and it is a bit more expensive but if it tangles or gives you trouble which it won't you can take it back because they have a 100% satisfaction garantee.
__________________
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

It is not the destination, it's the journey.
KTM640Dakar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2014, 06:30 PM   #3955
rustycager
Gnarly Adventurer
 
rustycager's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Hoosier Hills
Oddometer: 487
I put a harder foam earplug on my wire before the feeder to keep dirt out. They sell felt and foam devices that do the same but earplugs are free. Some people oil the felt but to me that seems like asking for more dirt and troubles.
__________________
2004 DRZs
rustycager is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2014, 07:05 PM   #3956
z@ch
Turn it up to eleven
 
z@ch's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Tejas Norte
Oddometer: 4,704
You can clean out the liner with an air nozzle.

If your problem isn't the contact tip you could possibly have your drive rolls set too loose.
z@ch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 10:48 AM   #3957
TymeRider
Gnarly Adventurer
 
TymeRider's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Oddometer: 372
If I'm making some gussets and brackets to weld to the subframe, how important is it to use the same grade steel as the subframe itself? Can you weld mild steel to chrome-moly and visa-versa?

This is for a BMW X-Country rear subframe, which I assume is made of mild steel like 1018? Or is it chrome-moly like 4130?

I'm going to make the brackets myself, but have a professional welder do the welding.

Doug
__________________
2007 BMW G650X Challenge
2005 KTM 950S Adventure
2002 BMW R1150GS Adventure
TymeRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 11:56 AM   #3958
Strong Bad
n00balicious
 
Strong Bad's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Oddometer: 3,949
Quote:
Originally Posted by TymeRider View Post
If I'm making some gussets and brackets to weld to the subframe, how important is it to use the same grade steel as the subframe itself? Can you weld mild steel to chrome-moly and visa-versa?

This is for a BMW X-Country rear subframe, which I assume is made of mild steel like 1018? Or is it chrome-moly like 4130?

I'm going to make the brackets myself, but have a professional welder do the welding.

Doug
I don't know the BME X-Country, so I googled "BMW+X-Country+rear+subframe" images and every thing I see all looks like aluminum to me.
__________________
"I couldn't wait for success, so I went ahead without it."
Strong Bad is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 12:13 PM   #3959
tbarstow
Two-wheelin' Fool
 
tbarstow's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Viva Lost Wages!
Oddometer: 3,200
Quote:
Originally Posted by TymeRider View Post
If I'm making some gussets and brackets to weld to the subframe, how important is it to use the same grade steel as the subframe itself? Can you weld mild steel to chrome-moly and visa-versa?

This is for a BMW X-Country rear subframe, which I assume is made of mild steel like 1018? Or is it chrome-moly like 4130?

I'm going to make the brackets myself, but have a professional welder do the welding.

Doug
Unless you are going to heat treat the whole subframe when you are done, it really won't matter what you weld to it (alloy steel vs carbon steel). Just clean it good before painting it.
tbarstow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 12:21 PM   #3960
TymeRider
Gnarly Adventurer
 
TymeRider's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Oddometer: 372
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
I don't know the BME X-Country, so I googled "BMW+X-Country+rear+subframe" images and every thing I see all looks like aluminum to me.
Just to clarify: Stock X-Challenge frame is aluminum, and that is the only subframe listed on BMW's parts fiche.

For the X-country, both aluminum and steel versions are available on the BMW parts fiche.

I have an X-Challenge with the stock aluminum subframe, but have purchased the X-country steel frame from BMW. For all practical purposes the geometry of the X-Country and X-Challenge subframes are the same. There are some difference with regard to passenger pegs, etc.
__________________
2007 BMW G650X Challenge
2005 KTM 950S Adventure
2002 BMW R1150GS Adventure
TymeRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014