ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-10-2014, 02:26 PM   #301
SeanPNW OP
Water Bear
 
SeanPNW's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Somewhere in Latin America
Oddometer: 464
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiriqui Charlie View Post
I have complete faith and confidence that if anybody can find a cheap way to cross, it will be you guys! Sorry about Fritz, this just serves to reinforce my belief that the governments of Colombia and Panama don't want there to be an easy way to cross the Gap, even though this could be an economic boon to both countries. I would be very surprised if Fritz ever gets permission.
Funny thing about down time, it was too bad that you had no extra time to see a little of the Highlands, lots of scenic, twisty roads up this way.
Hey Charlie, yeah I called Fritz to see what the status was, as you said, they are bogged down in red tape on the Colombia side. He says maybe another month, but sounds like it's been this way for a while. Not going to sit around holding my breath. Maybe it'll be going by the time we need to come back though

I met a guy in the super market today with a "Chiriqui" hat on, said he's been going there for 21 years now with his wife. You guys sure live in a beautiful area, maybe we'll get to do some more riding there another day.
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"In life sometimes you just need to value adventure above security and comfort."
No-Moto-Boundaries, Tanning A Ginger Tip-to-Tip, '04 KLR 688
SeanPNW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2014, 11:52 AM   #302
Montek
Eternal Noob
 
Montek's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Where ever the motobike is
Oddometer: 967
we're waiting

for your boat to come in!!!!!! its kinda odd not reading your rr daily!! its what i do at lunch time. Guess I have to hit the titty bar for entertainment a couple more days. Wife hates it when i have no rr's to catch up on cause i come home with that very distinct titty bar aroma

Hurry that boat along for my wifes sake, and co-workers!!
__________________
Adventure for a Lifetime
I may be a poor rider, but my bike sure is SLOW
Montek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2014, 02:38 PM   #303
Scott_PDX
Leisure Engineer
 
Scott_PDX's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Portland...the newer one on the left side.
Oddometer: 3,029
Great Ride Report

Hey Sean - Just found your ride report and have been spending free time this week slowly digesting it. Love the writing, pictures and general attitude you have. Keep up the good work, will be looking forward to more reports in the future.
__________________
2014 KTM 690R, 2009 KLR650, 2004 KTM 450 EXC, 2000 R1150GS

My MotovLog (Youtube Videos): http://www.youtube.com/user/scottb572/videos

Where Am I via SPOT (Code SCT): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719703
Scott_PDX is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 12:52 PM   #304
SeanPNW OP
Water Bear
 
SeanPNW's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Somewhere in Latin America
Oddometer: 464
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montek View Post
for your boat to come in!!!!!! its kinda odd not reading your rr daily!! its what i do at lunch time. Guess I have to hit the titty bar for entertainment a couple more days. Wife hates it when i have no rr's to catch up on cause i come home with that very distinct titty bar aroma

Hurry that boat along for my wifes sake, and co-workers!!
Your wife can rest and you can scrub that titty bar aroma out of your clothes, just got in to Cartagena this morning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_PDX View Post
Hey Sean - Just found your ride report and have been spending free time this week slowly digesting it. Love the writing, pictures and general attitude you have. Keep up the good work, will be looking forward to more reports in the future.
Thanks for the words Scott, I'm hoping to make more rides happen in the future as well, this stuff gets into your blood for sure.
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"In life sometimes you just need to value adventure above security and comfort."
No-Moto-Boundaries, Tanning A Ginger Tip-to-Tip, '04 KLR 688
SeanPNW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 01:03 PM   #305
SeanPNW OP
Water Bear
 
SeanPNW's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Somewhere in Latin America
Oddometer: 464
In Cartagena, Colombia, South America

James and I made it into Colombia today. First thoughts...I'm intrigued, more than intrigued. We are in Cartagena and killing some time before we can get our passports back later tonight. Our bikes need to go through customs and thus will be on the boat for another day until we can pull them off. We are dirt bags and trying to save money so we'll be crashing on the boat for another night with the crew instead of paying for a place in town. The crossing was good, beautiful islands, and a fun open water crossing. I'll get a post up on the ride when I get more internet over the next few days.

It's a bit bizarre being here in Colombia in South America. It'll be even more bizarre when we get to unload the bikes and turn the wheels. This place is beautiful. More later.
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"In life sometimes you just need to value adventure above security and comfort."
No-Moto-Boundaries, Tanning A Ginger Tip-to-Tip, '04 KLR 688
SeanPNW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 11:59 PM   #306
theofam
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Oddometer: 363
Glad you fellas made it safely! Eagerly awaiting some pics of the float south.
theofam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2014, 12:11 PM   #307
damasovi
Beastly Adventurer
 
damasovi's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Ensenada, Baja California
Oddometer: 2,622
amigo Sean!!

keep on ridding!! I keep reading, and now you have me thinking of going south instead of north for my next big ride...

I hope SA treads you well, and say HOLA to the señoritas for me.

Damaso
__________________
A motorcycle or scooter always turn a bad day into a great time!
KLR 650, Honda Beat scooter!!
damasovi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2014, 03:15 PM   #308
SeanPNW OP
Water Bear
 
SeanPNW's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Somewhere in Latin America
Oddometer: 464
Quote:
Originally Posted by theofam View Post
Glad you fellas made it safely! Eagerly awaiting some pics of the float south.
Hey Sean, uploading pics now in a coffee shop, interwebs are pretty sluggish here. James and I are staying on the boat with the crew for a few days while we wait for customs stuff. It's nice getting to spend some time on the boat and with the crew in a more relaxed atmosphere and we are saving a bit of money as well. Staying on a boat means no internet, so will probably have a post up in a couple days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damasovi View Post
amigo Sean!!

keep on ridding!! I keep reading, and now you have me thinking of going south instead of north for my next big ride...

I hope SA treads you well, and say HOLA to the señoritas for me.

Damaso
Hey Damaso, I look forward to reading your RR for your next ride, whether it is north OR south. Everything is new and foreign to me down here so I can't compare north to south too fairly right now. It's a whole other world in Colombia it seems, only been here for 24hrs now but it's quickly becoming one of my favorite places and most intriguing countries thus far. I'll let the ladies know you might be heading south
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"In life sometimes you just need to value adventure above security and comfort."
No-Moto-Boundaries, Tanning A Ginger Tip-to-Tip, '04 KLR 688
SeanPNW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2014, 09:06 PM   #309
Old Codger
Adventurer
 
Old Codger's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Ventura County Ca.
Oddometer: 33
Waiting for my daily, Adv. fix....This is one of the BEST,,,,
__________________
AMA
BMWMOA
10 XT 250
11 DL 650
05 R1200RT
Old Codger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2014, 10:44 AM   #310
SeanPNW OP
Water Bear
 
SeanPNW's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Somewhere in Latin America
Oddometer: 464
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Codger View Post
Waiting for my daily, Adv. fix....This is one of the BEST,,,,
Off the boat and on the road again. Found a place with good internet and cold beer , hoping to have something up today.
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"In life sometimes you just need to value adventure above security and comfort."
No-Moto-Boundaries, Tanning A Ginger Tip-to-Tip, '04 KLR 688
SeanPNW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2014, 01:40 PM   #311
MrGoldfish
Gnarly Adventurer
 
MrGoldfish's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Chandler, AZ
Oddometer: 479
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanPNW View Post
Off the boat and on the road again. Found a place with good internet and cold beer , hoping to have something up today.
Looking forward to it. Thanks for sharing.
__________________
Currently Owned: 2008 KLR 650
Previously Owned: 1998 Honda XR100; 2001 Honda XR250
2013 RR: Phoenix to Santa Fe & Back! – July 4th Weekend Adventure
MrGoldfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2014, 07:12 PM   #312
SeanPNW OP
Water Bear
 
SeanPNW's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Somewhere in Latin America
Oddometer: 464
64. Sailing The Darien (Part 1)

James and I had decided to head to Panama City where we hoped to be able to make some last minute decisions on what boats to take. James had a booking on Wild Card, I had a last minute cancellation that I could fill if I wanted on the same boat, and there was an opening on Jaqueline (another boat) as well. In addition, we hoped to hear from our friend Santiago as to whether there was space on his super cheap mystery boat, we could take the mystery boat 9 separate times for the cost of one crossing on the other options. Either way, we needed to be in Panama City as all boats would be leaving the next day and none of them were leaving from Portobelo where we were. We spent that night lounging with David and mulling over our options. After so many years sailing the open waters he has such a laidback attitude about getting around. Goodluck finding crossing to Europe David, all the best.



We got in to Panama City before noon and started making decisions real quick. Having heard from Santiago that there was no room on his mystery boat and that the captain didn’t know when they would sail next I opted to put the deposit down on Wild Card and lock in the same boat as James. We spent the afternoon walking around the city and buying a few snackums for the 5 day crossing. We were told to be in Carti at 7am the next morning for boarding so it was early to bed. We were up at the asscrack of dawn and on the road by 4am.



We got to the port of Carti before Wild Card did so had some time to kill. The Guna Yala (also commonly known as the Kuna or Cuna) are the indigenous people of Panama and Colombia and they own and run these small ports. The Kuna live in the three separate politically autonomous ‘reservations’ (sound familiar north americans?), with the most populated being the region of Kuna Yala which is also known as the San Blas islands. There are 300 some odd islands in the San Blas and they run off the caribbean coast of Panama all the way down towards Colombia. They are in charge of the ports here and there are several different ones each run by different families.



A 2-up v-strom rolled up for the same boat so we made friends with Bryan and Sonyea. We cut up a bit of rope and pulled strings to see who gets to be the guinea pig bike loader.



Our boat came into the port a bit later and we got our first sight of the Wild Card.



Bryan pulled the short string but he having the bigger of the bikes I ended up loading up first anyways.



The Kuna are people of big hearts and very small stature. If you want to feel like King Kong come hang out in Kuna Yala for a bit.



They pulled up a wooden launcha by the dock and Bryan, I, and 10 Kuna power lifted the bike down into the boat.





Guys were just as stoked as us that we didn’t drop ‘er in the drink.



We powered out to Wild Card a few hundred yards off shore.



Meet our Captain. He goes by Richard, but will forth be known as Captain Aquaticus.



We winched up the bike off the main sail and down via a strap under the motor and up onto the deck. No men in orange hard hats and walkie talkies needed here. Sorry no photos, busy picturing how to catch my bike in my arms like a falling 400lb baby if it were to slip. With my bike loaded we went back to pick up Bryan and Sonyea’s.



Again the 10 Kuna power proved more than formidable.





Last up was Jame’s bike, which turned out to be the surprising heavy weight of the bunch. It’s all brick and iron so I guess that makes sense. Those classics were built with a different idea of ‘featherweight’.



Will all the bikes loaded we could kick back and grab a soothing drink. Nothing more to do with the pigs until we reach Colombia.



We had a short sail to Kuna Yala were we would do customs and handle the exit paperwork for Panama. The boat had 14 passengers including ourselves and 3 crew so we took the time to make acquaintances.



After about an hour we made it to Kuna Yala.



Captain Aquaticus ferried us across to shore and explained how he would do his best to help us all not drown and have a great time over the next 5 days.



On shore he set us loose to go explore as he went to deal with all the paperwork. Richard knows all the ins and outs of the Kuna immigration process. A few gifts here and there to smooth over the process and the customs officials would be more than happy to take care of all our paperwork on the spot. In the meantime we went exploring.





It feels a bit uncomfortable to be here to be honest, but I can’t tell exactly why at first. I fall back from the group and watch the interactions from afar instead. Everyone is required to stop on this main island to go through customs, so it has become a bit of a tourist thing to walk about the small island as people wait to have their paperwork finished. It feels like a bit of a cultural ‘show’ though, that we are to walk through and see for entertainment, maybe snap a few photos of the primitive tribe of people with our best ‘wide eyes and surprised face’ on, then bring them back home to show our families and internet friends how ‘real’ and ‘natural’ an experience it must have been to be so close amongst a group of indigenous people. No one seems to feel the apathetic buzz of the older people living there, going through their daily lives with tourists walking through their community houses and homes as they try to relax. One small kid on the beach piles his face into the sand and runs around wildly as if he were tarzan, interacting with the white man for his very first time. Everyone gets excited by this and the photo frenzy ensues, the kid seems to know from previous experience what gets the tourists excited. I feel a bit like we are at a zoo of sorts, for us it’s very exciting, but for the people living there, ‘our’ presence, the outsiders that come daily to take pictures and then leave, has become somewhat of a stale experience for the people actually living there. Something that they tolerate for the extra money it may bring to their families, or that they may use to buy a few modern technologies. Maybe technologies or amenities that they wonder if they ever really needed in the first place.



I definitely didn’t feel unwelcome though, and there was nothing negative in the air that was obvious or anything like that. Maybe it’s just because I was here a few years earlier and now on return was less overcome by the oddity of it all, and thus instead saw the interactions from a more neutral perspective. Or maybe I’m just reading into it too much. In any case, I decided to make my own way around the island in hopes of making a smaller wake and capturing a few subtle photos. Some families have jumped on the tourist bandwagon more than others and there is a decent spread of living arrangements. Everything from newer brick and mortar homes to the more historical palm thatch huts.







Sandy paths connect the homes.



And all toilets seem to overhang onto the water.



This flag is flown everywhere. It could be a cultural Kuna flag, or a beer company. Your guess is as good as mine.



I went back to the main dock where I found James, he had picked up on the same sort of feeling as me and opted to sit and watch the water views instead.



A large boat loaded to the gills with propane, fruit, mattresses, and home supplies showed up. I asked the guy what they sell and how often they come. He says they take orders when they drop stuff off and then bring what is requested on the next trip. They come up from the border of Colombia once a month through the chain of islands making deliveries for what the Kuna have requested.



A beautiful decay was on the hull.



Once the paper work was wrapped up we hopped back to the boat. I don’t want the tone of this post to be a negative one though, but I do want to write what I picked up on while on this little modern ‘city’ of sorts for the San Blas. The experience here wasn’t a bad one, I just picked up on something that felt slightly askew while lurking in the shadows. The next day we would be off in the more rural islands of San Blas where we would be sure to find a better balance.

Back on the boat with the paperwork formalities done, people wound down the night and had some drinks and got to know the people we would be living with in close quarters for the next few days.



In the morning the boat was underway early. Captain Aquaticus runs a well oiled ship here, but the environment is fun and relaxed. Like going out sailing with your cool uncle, the itinerary is flexible and open to change depending on what people want to do.



We were headed for a group of islands for a breakfast stop over and morning dip if anyone wants to go for a swim.



It’s a sweltering morning, the unanimous response for a swim is ‘yes’. All snorkle gear is provided so some people go out and explore the reefs as well.





After a dip and breakfast the boat gets underway again. We are now headed further down the chain of islands to a place called BBQ island.



Here we are told we will have a BBQ shindig with another boat that will also be in the area.



Meet most of the crew, ‘Tuna’ on the left (Romania), Captain Aquaticus (New Zealand), and ‘YouYou’ (Poland). Amsa (New Zealand) the onboard master chef is not pictured here unfortunately, she was busy working her magic in the kitchen.



We sail on.



Drink some beer.



Meet some dolphins off the bow.



And eat some snacks on deck.



On a boat there isn’t a ton to do so a lot of lounging and relaxing is invested in. Not half bad to be driven around from activity to activity if you ask me.



Captain Aquaticus comes and stirs the Ozzy vs Kiwi pot every now and then to be sure everyone is lively.



Land ho, BBQ island ahead.



The captain of the other boat, Bae, comes by us as we pull in. She’s got a boatload of drift wood from an uninhabited island near by to burn.



The island looks beautiful, the bikes are probably jealous they can’t go play on it. Sorry ladies, salt will wreck you.



Captain Aquaticus bought a bag o’ live lobster from the Kuna for the BBQ.





This is Bae’s dog Wacek, he goes wherever she goes. This not just any dog though, Wacek is the only dog to circumnavigate the world non-stop. OK the dog didn’t do it on his own, but Bae’s late husband Tomek did, and Wacek was his only companion for the entire time. Tomek was the sixth person in the history of sailing to circumnavigate the world, non-stop, and in the wrong direction. Let me explain what this actually means, just so we are all clear. He got in his sailboat, loaded with enough food and equipment by his loving wife to last him the entire journey, whistled for his dog to come on board, and then proceeded to sail non-stop around the fucking globe. I mean non-fucking stop, no anchor, just sail, sleep with the boat on autopilot, wakeup, sail more, repeat. He stopped only in one port at the very end of the trip. That one port was the one that he started in 13 months earlier. In addition to this he did it in the opposite direction that most people circumnavigate, he did it going in the opposite direction of the prevailing wind trade routes, so he had to tac the entire time to get anywhere. Tough guy, and this dog is no normal pup either.



After dropping the rest of the group off on the island, James, Tuna, and I went over to collect some more firewood for the BBQ tonight.



We found some wood, and James found a rather large sand dollar.



We took our haul back to the boat.



Here Captain Aquaticus showed us how to murder lobster in the most humane way possible.





We took our haul over to BBQ island and met up with the rest of the group and the people from Bae’s boat.

Here we got a fire going.



Drank rum and coconut milk out of coconuts.



And feasted on yet another delicious meal masterfully prepped in the boats kitchen by the amazing Amsa.



Eventually the fire burned down and the bottles of booze were emptied of their contents.



Some people slept on the island and some went back to the boat. tonight is our last night in the San Blas islands, as tomorrow night we would start the 30+ hour open water crossing to Colombia.



__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"In life sometimes you just need to value adventure above security and comfort."
No-Moto-Boundaries, Tanning A Ginger Tip-to-Tip, '04 KLR 688

SeanPNW screwed with this post 05-23-2014 at 10:24 AM
SeanPNW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2014, 08:19 PM   #313
SMC
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Newport Beach CA
Oddometer: 59
Great update!
SMC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2014, 08:21 PM   #314
joenuclear
Planning.....
 
joenuclear's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Oddometer: 6,155
Yup, Thanks for the excellent RR.
__________________
"They bought me a box of tin soldiers. I threw all the Generals away. I smashed up the Sergeants and Majors. Now I play with my Privates all day."
joenuclear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2014, 09:12 PM   #315
mopulga
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 408
Awesome! I just finished a few minutes ago "beads in the headlight's" chapter of crossing into Colombia. Looks like you have a much better captain.

Thanks for the update!
mopulga is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014